Tucked amongst the shops and eateries of Schweizer Strasse, and open at 08h00 on weekdays or 09h00 on weekends, Sachsenhäuser Feinbäckerei offers a curated selection of well-crafted French and German fare including several Cakes and Pastries.
Opened in 2013 and earning a reputation of quality ever since, the owner present and happy to discuss his products in fluent English on Thursday morning, it was on his suggestion that items previously tasted elsewhere all fared well, the Almond Croissant unfilled but instead perfumed by nutty liquor that played well of Butter, Marzipan and Powdered Sugar.
Moving next to a Nougatbrezel, the most famous item at Cologne’s Merzenich here better in terms of texture as well as flavor, it was in follow-up that Sour Cherries impressed two-fold, the Coffee Cake with Walnut Streusel carefully balancing sweet, bitter and sour in each bite while Sachsenhäuser Feinbäckerei’s Black Forest Cake used thinner layers of Chocolate Sponge and Pastry Cream than many but could have benefitted from a bit more Fruit, or at least a thicker slice for 4€.
Canele, Cannoli, Espresso Praline, Chocolate Covered Sour Cherry / Crème Brulee, Raspberry Tart, Paris Brest, Cannoli, Yuzu Cake, Canele, Chocolate Covered Sour Cherry, Black Forest Macaron
Nestled in The Black Forest since 1789, Traube Tonbach is considered one of Germany’s most luxurious destinations, and at Michelin 3* Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube Chef Torsten Michel continues a tradition of greatness that has yielded over 50 Michelin starred Chefs over the years.
Historically Germany’s most important Restaurant, three Michelin Stars awarded under the toque of Harald Wohlfhart whose tenure stretched from 1990 until 2017, guests visiting Baiersbronn are now treated to the talents of a man who served as Wohlfhart’s sous for over a decade, and from the moment one steps through the dining room doors it is hard to believe any aspect of the experience has ever been better.
Well appointed with an elevated view of the Black Forest, “Schwarzwald” in German, Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube resides in the heavily wooded main building but creates a light space thanks to bright whites and big windows, the show quick to begin before menus even arrive as guests are treated to bites including Beef Tartare, a refined Shrimp Chip and Mackerel brightened by Curry and Coriander.
Given the choice to order a la carte or via tasting, the latter ranging 165€ to 245€ depending on length and ingredients, it was with one Large Degustation plus a Vegetarian Menu and a glass of Wine each that dinner continued at a comfortable pace, Salmon Tartare and Red Pepper Mousse built on Couscous offered as Amuses to their respective menus with each just a hint of the artistry soon to come.
Taking no shortcuts, Bread repeatedly arriving warm and highlighted by Olive Focaccia as well as seeded Cereal Bread ready to be slathered in local Butter, course one offered tender Lobster medallions amidst saline Custard and Oysters perfumed by Lemon Grass, the harmony achieved undeniably impressive just as it was for wood-fired Artichokes that offered noteworthy variance from bite to bite depending on ratio of Black Truffle or Mustard involved.
Open to swapping items between tastings or even a la carte, it was trusting Chef Torsten that dinner continued henceforth, any preconceived notions about Beef Liver erased by a tender cut softened by Barolo and brightened by Peas while Morels offered their earthy aromatics to both this composition and the Vegetarian alternative featuring Egg Yolk cooked inside Mushroom Jelly that acted like the skin of a Ravioli.
Lightening up course three, a Filet of Red Mullet reminiscent of Guy Savoy in its use of crispy “scales” served amidst vibrant Red Pepper Coulis, it was with impressive artistry that the Vegetarian Menu one-upped its counterpart by way of tiny Tomatoes and Onions hollowed and refilled with fortified Cream atop a fresh Tomato Tart resting in Pine Nut Marinade.
Not an overly-long menu, though portions will assuredly challenge those of smaller appetites, savories concluded by way of Duck Margret and Confit alongside stacked Turnips and thin, yet intense, Sauce plus “Chef’s vision of Spring” as Green Asparagus and Young Peas forming the base to laminated Pastry ready to sop up what was described as “Beef-free Bordelaise,” though if served alongside the real deal only the most discerning might be able to detect a difference.
Proudly wheeling out a Cheese Cart, many local plus several from France offered with Bread, it was after taste buds were sent reeling by Cabri Ariégeois that the rest proved well-aged and pleasant, though the composed course of melted Chabichou and Potato Mousseline with Garlic Pistou was an enviable alternative and fantastic transitional dish to the Vegetarian Dessert offering Gariguette Strawberries in several textures atop a boozy Baba anchored by Chantilly Crème.
Equally elegant in the presentation of a Yuzu Croustillant in sour surroundings, this dish essentially a palate cleanser in preparation for Schwarzwaldstube’s reinterpreted Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, both this Dessert and its counterpart featuring Chocolate, Bananas and Lime were amongst the most complex sweets seen in Germany, each bite a little different from the last but all of them memorable and just as relevant to the whole.
Undeniably deserving of its accolades, not even one item from the collection of Mignardises lacking in terms of artistry or flavor, it was after settling the bill that guests were bid auf Wiedersehen with the lone regret being opting not to spend a night at Traube Tonbach in order to enjoy Breakfast the next morning.
Although a visit to Germany’s Black Forest includes hiking and the great outdoors for many, those culinary inclined know that Baiersbronn contains two Michelin 3* Restaurants in addition to several Cafés and Backstubes, an outpost of the Ziegler’s brand at Uferweg 2 providing everything from Salads and Pizza to visitors, in addition to several styles of Pastry.
One of sixteen locations found in the area, humble beginnings followed by expansion after World War Two bearing similarities to the back-story of Frankfurt’s Eifler and Huck, it is inside a comfortably large space that diners will found tables and chairs spread forward from the counter, employees not fluent in English nonetheless friendly and even apologetic that they had already sold out of Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte.
Offering an array of less commonly seen Cakes, though a Nougatbrezel better than that of Merzenich as well as springy Quarkbällchen also deserve a look, it was with three slices in hand that a table was found, the Kleine Käse- Sahnetorte something like Bienenstich Kuchen without Honey and Almonds and Himbeerkuchen using the same Vanilla sponge but piling Raspberries suspended in Gelatin on top.
Not trying to be too full before dinner at Schwarzwaldstube, but also incapable of bypassing Rhubarb, final bites at Ziegler’s Backstube once again attested to the benefits of makes and baking everything on-site as tangy stalks snapped amidst sweetened Custard on a bed of buttery Almond Cake.
Although most will know of Hotel Bareiss thanks to its Michelin 3* Gourmet Room, the well-appointed resort also offers classic Black Forest recipes from Chef Claus-Peter Lumpp at Dorfstuben, and on Wednesday afternoon the wood-paneled Restaurant staffed by two young woman in traditional dress served a hearty lunch of quality Ingredients at a price far lower than one might expect.
Still family owned in the town of Baiersbronn, an area many rightfully consider the epicenter of German fine dining thanks to Schwarzwaldstube as well as Bareiss, it is from on-site parking that guests will find the resort spread across several acres, the Restaurants inside a large lodge and Dorfstuben immediately right from the main entrance.
Intended to be casual, most diners guests of the resort and all fluent in German, it was after procuring English menus including a daily prix-fixe that decisions were made, one guest opting for Riesling that costs as much as Mineral Water and a large basket of warm Bread soon arriving along with crisp Radishes, Herb Cream and chunky Pork Spread.
Featuring seasonal items as well Dorfstuben Classics and “Regional Specialties,” the latter sections comprising the entirety of lunch, it was not long before an Appetizer titled “Dorfstuben Snack” arrived, house-cured Ham outpacing anything called “Black Forest” prior while Blood Sausage, Liverwurst and Head Cheese all battled for top billing with slices of a garlicky Link not far behind.
Rejuvinating the palate with housemade Pickles between bites, the Corn and Apple particularly memorable, it was with plates clear and service ware reset that Mains were presented, the sweet and sour Tripe perfectly cleaned and cooked to contrast crispy Potatoes while an entirely different style of Schnitzel saw Veal pan-seared in Cream Sauce with rich Egg Noodles and sautéed Mushrooms helping to rein in the saltiness.
Remaining rustic for Dessert, three-bite Doughnuts with Apples suspended in what eats like tempura-Brioche remarkably light and entirely oilless, there was simply no denying Rhubarb Strudel its place on the table and with sharp acidity finding balance in Butter, Sugar and Yogurt Ice Cream the plate as a whole ranks amongst the best dishes tasted during eight days in Germany.
Found just around the corner from Bäckerei Höfler in Füssen, Bäckerei Brunners offers several regional delicacies inside a large space, and for those visiting the city a location along pedestrian-only streets at the center of town proves highly convenient save for a lack of nearby parking.
Called a “natural” Bakery by staff with limited English skills, everything made on-site and much of the Grain organic, Bäckerei Brunners is owned by Franz and Gislane Brunner, both second-generation Bakers and the products themselves attesting to both time as well as technique.
Cozy but spacious, the sort of space where groups can gather but not disturb those who wish to work or read, fans of Bavarian Pretzels would be wise to check out Brunner’s version with browned skin overlying fluffy insides, and for those who favor something sweet yet savory the Cheese and Sesame “Quarktasche“ is a brilliant combination amidst Pastry braids.
Additionally offering several Cakes starting at 07h30, traditional Beesting most noteworthy thanks to Yeast, Vanilla and Toasted Almonds shellacked by Honey, Apple Strudel also fares well at just 3.30€ for a substantial slice while Sacher Torte was unfortunately a little dry and presumably left over from the previous day given the fact that only half a Cake was left mere minutes after opening.
A tourist town due to its proximity to Neuschwanstein, Füssen nonetheless was adequate for overnight accommodations, and seeking Breakfast en route to The Black Forest Bäckerei Höfler proved a somewhat-justifiable stop despite heavy rain and distant parking due to its location in an area limited to foot traffic.
Seemingly family owned, but questionable in terms of standards and authenticity given the presence of items such as Zeelandia International’s buy-and-fry products in the Pastry case, it was moments after the Bakery’s 7:00am opening that two guests entered, just under 10€ yielding six choices that began with a soft Bavarian Pretzel whose golden skin had been hemisected and slathered in Butter.
Onward to Quarkini, branded Donuts fortified with Cheese that offers a springy texture beneath Granulated Sugar, it was fairly disappointing that both a Sesame Snail and Rhubarb-Cheese Danish were fairly dry from edge to edge, though the Raisin-studded Brioche fared better.
Rounding out Breakfast with “Linzer Schnitte,” a slice of Pie built from ground Nuts and Streusel beneath a layer of Raspberry Jam, it was after some debate that the decision was made to pass on further Cake or otherwise, and this proved a good choice as Bäckerei Brunner proved far better just a few meters away.
Detailed in the Michelin Guide as a Bib Gourmand selection, Kaufmann Hotel and Restaurant offers enjoyable renditions of regional German Cuisine just fifteen minutes from the town of Füssen and less than half an hour Neuschwanstein Castle.
Located on several acres of greenery in Rosshaupten, the family-owned hotel having undergone renovation to four-star standards in 2011, it is from parking along a gravel path that guests access a large foyer with Restaurant to the right, a Bar and Buffet of Salads noted en route and service pleasant despite speaking limited English.
Lined part in wood-paneling, a newer section brighter with tables along windows looking outside, it is from a menu of Swabian specialties plus some Mediterranean plates that guests are invited to choose, a Wine list focused on Riesling expected and prices lower than those seen in larger cities.
Populated largely by well-dressed guests and families, many likely regulars as judged by their interactions with staff, it was following their lead that the decision was made to begin with a trip to the Salad station at a cost of just 6€, the Caprese delicious albeit inauthentic as was the mix of Bulgur Wheat and Turkish Spices.
Self slicing several Loaves of housemade Bread, spreads including one with Herbs and another somewhat akin to Pork Rillettes both delicious, it was not long before entrees and sides arrived, the pan-fried Beef recommended by Bibendum tender and capable of standing up to Onions while the accompanying Spätzle was a bit too cheesy and better enjoyed naked with Cream Sauce to taste, as it is offered on the kids menu.
Not particularly inspired as relates to Dessert, no sign of Streudel or seasonal Produce to be found, it was instead in Allgau Veal Schnitzel that additional appetite was invested, the astringent Cranberry compote set aside in favor of crispy Potato Pancakes intended to be liberally topped in stewed Apple Puree.
Located within walking distance of Marienplatz and the famous Glockenspiel it is at Café Frischhut that locals and tourists alike gather, the smell of Yeast and Sugar hanging in the air at least three meters outside the shop and frequently replenished by a continuous flow of traffic in and out the door.
Truly a local flavor, the presence of fried Dough outside Bavaria undoubtedly common but Schmalznudel themselves almost entirely a product of Munich and its surroundings, guests entering the wood and brick eatery will immediately find the item they covet steps inside, though additional baked goods as well as seating are also offered.
Cash only and fast-paced, the entire transaction for most less than sixty seconds as a woman takes money and bags items while the man behind her fries stretched Dough prior to adding Sugar, it is while walking that most begin to indulge, first in this case on Raisin-studded Brioche known in Munich as Rohrnudeln or Buchteln.
Onward next to Krapfen, the exterior almost too warm to touch and the inside filled with thick Apricot Preserves, it was after returning to the car that Café Frischhut’s signature item was un-bagged and devoured, the taste reminiscent of Funnel Cake given similar constituents though the texture is far lighter all the way from rounded-edge to paper-thin center.
A part of Rödelheim since 1937, and now with ten locations throughout Frankfurt plus surrounding areas, Bäckerei Huck follows a similar business model as Der Bäcker Eifler, though in general the quality of craftsmanship does not seem to be quite as high.
Originally owned by Heinrich Huck, his Café at Konstablerwache lost over the course of two World Wars, it is now under the direction of Grandson Alexander that the chain presses forward eighty-two years later, a location on Adalbertstrasse opening at 06h30 though none of the items purchased were still warm while the building itself seemed too small for an industrial oven.
Apparently Huck’s newest shop, bilingual staff explaining that the store opened in 2015 to supply Bread for nearby Restaurants, it was taking suggestions that Cheesecake joined self-selected Pretzels and Pastries, the use of Quark creating springy consistency without a lot of added sweetness while the unsalted Bavarian Knot seemed overworked and baked too long with a resultant chewy consistency.
Moving on to a spiral smeared with ground Sesame Seeds, the texture again suggesting it to be overworked or frankly stale, things improved somewhat when Produce got involved, the Apple Danish less-laminated than others but still enjoyable before Rhubarb again stole the show inside a pint-size Pie Shell with Custard and Streusel.
With nearly eighty locations throughout Frankfurt and surrounding areas it is almost impossible to go a day without seeing the Red and Yellow name of Backer Eifler, their branded packaging noted on streets and even in the hands of Hotel or Restaurant staff at Michelin-starred places.
Originated in 1921 when Josef Eifler opened up shop at Eckenheimer Landstrasse 86, and now in its third generation under the direction of grandson Gerhard, it has been through steady expansion based on principles of in-house baking that the brand has been growing since 1960, a visit to the Leipziger Strasse shop on Tuesday at 06h00 finding several items warm and prices fair beginning with first bites of fluffy Bread topped with melted Cheese and Bacon.
Still offering several of Josef’s original recipes, but also home to innovation from certified Master Pastry Chef Gerhard, it is continuing savory that customers will find everything from cavernous Croissants finished with Malt to proper Pretzels or those filled with Butter, not to mention full Loaves intended to be taken home and used in Eifler Cafes to make Sandwiches.
Not a place to pass on sweets, though an Apfelkreppel was unfortunately a bit sparse with Fruit and the “Nusskringel” slightly dry, better bites came from a seasonal Danish loaded with Custard and Strawberries while the version with Rhubarb was even better as the perennial Plant’s sourness found its foil in buttery Streusel.
Although Frankfurt may not possess any of Germany’s Michelin 3* Restaurants the plethora of talent trained in Baiersbronn has gifted the city with a bevy of talent, and tucked away on Kleine Bockenheimer Strasse an emerging name is that of Chef André Rickert who owns and operates Bidlabu along with Sommelier Dietmar Fritz.
Still something of a hidden gem, a sign amongst the masses on Grosse Bockenheimer Stasse leading guests down a small alley to bohemian environs surrounding a small kitchen, it is with reservations highly encouraged that guests arriving Monday through Saturday will find Chef Rickert cooking three or four course menus offered Prix Fixe.
Charging just 48 to 55€, Vegetarians ten less for Cuisine equally thoughtful, it was opting for al fresco seats protected by an extendable canopy that two guests sat down Monday night, a lack of dietary restrictions confirmed prior to presenting cold Watercress Soup enlivened by Bacon and Parmesan.
Casual yet competent, adjectives equally applicable to Bidlabu’s service and Cuisine, it is with steady pace that plates emerge from the kitchen at intervals suited to each table’s comfort, course one offering gently cooked Mackerel and puffed Rice plus an unexpected bit of heat.
Tempting guests with good Bread, ideal for sopping up the Saffron and Shellfish Sauce served over top Pasta filled with Herbs, course three offered a choice from which one selected Deer and the other Sea Bass, both Proteins well-sourced and properly prepared though the Fish was slightly better thanks to Beurre Noisette and tender Mushrooms while Venison got a little lost in the sweetness of its Sauce.
Completing the night with Dessert, Ice Cream made with Herbs no longer the novelty it once was, André nonetheless managed to sell Sorrel thanks to soft White Chocolate and three textures of Strawberry including Mousse perfumed by Flowers.
Although a location on densely-packed Grosse Bockenheimer Stasse all but guarantees L’Art Sucré an enviable amount of foot traffic the Bakery itself makes no promises of quality thanks to staff who, in perfect English, are willing to state “I’m not here to please anyone” when seating is requested to enjoy a few Pastries nearly an hour prior to closing.
Owned by Florian and Sandra Koller, a focus on traditional French Chocolates, Tarts and Cookies setting their Patisserie apart from other spots in Frankfurt, it was expectedly finding options somewhat picked over that two guests entered at 18h10, posted hours from 10h00 to 19h00 duly noted but staff rudely refusing two chairs upstairs before abruptly continuing “and we’re cash only.”
Admittedly put off by such attitude, the young man with tan skin unapologetically adding a comment about how Espresso machines had already been turned off even though no one had asked for Coffee, it was nonetheless for the sake of having taken the time to visit that Dessert was taken to standing-tables nearby, a one-bite Cookie featuring Figs and Nuts quite good while L’Art Sucré’s Pithivier had clearly suffered from a day on the counter with all but the very top layer lacking in terms of crispness.
Never passing on Tart Tatin, the last one available also L’Art Sucré’s final sale of the day as no other patrons entered prior to closing, the Pie leaves no doubt of the Koller’s talents as everything from Cream to Crust was beautiful, and had the clerk not been so rude there’s a good chance another visit would have been made later in the week to taste additional items.
Known in Germany for a collection of cookbooks, it is inside Schweizer Strasse 54a that guests can find the work of Chef Cathérine Jamin, her eponymous Pastry Shop in Sachsenhausen offering a variety of Cakes and Candies that set a high standard for taste as well as presentation.
In fact a fourth generation Baker, great-grandfather Georg having originally opened shop in 1907 before moving to the current location, those interested in Konditorei & Confiserie Jamin’s goods will find the Café open Monday through Saturday from 10h00, a lack of Breads or Viennoiserie placing them in a different category than nearby competition including the likes of Huck and Eifler.
Long and narrow in terms of size, Pralines plus packaged Confections up front and Cakes lining a case in back, it is largely on German tradition that Cathérine’s current collection is focused, 3-5€ each first yielding a dense slice of Spice Cake punctuated by Sour Cherries that serves equally good as Dessert as it would for Breakfast alongside a cup of Coffee.
Allowing next for Austrian influence, genrous wedges of Sacher Torte for just 4.10€ dazzling with reflective Milk Chocolate Ganache and Apricot Jam brightening a Dark Chocolate Sponge, it seemed only right to finish with Jamin’s take on Black Forest Cake, the individual rounds decorated in Cocoa shavings potentially Frankfurt’s best rendition thanks to boozy Fruit that celebrates the Kirsch part of Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte.
Schnitzel Frankfurt Style, Fried Potatoes, Green Sauce
Homemade Bratwurst, Sauerkraut, Mashed Potatoes
Apple Strudel, Cinnamon, Whipped Cream, Vanilla Ice Cream, Crème Anglaise
Popular amongst tourists, Adolf Wagner – or Apfelwein Wagner as many know it – came highly recommended by trusted sources as a place for quality Hessen Fare, and at lunch on Monday the typically raucous space was thankfully calm with most guests either businessmen or the elderly.
Located in Sachsenhausen district, an area just south of the Main River, it is through a large Beer garden that guests navigate to the Restaurant itself, the presence of bilingual servers as well as menus most fortunate and a layout across two rooms offering plenty of space at one of several communal tables.
Producing Apple Wine through an entirely organic process since 1931, and even offering the bottled Beverage via online website, it was with a 2€ glass in hand that choices were perused and appetite gauged, large portions and low prices no doubt an aspect of Wagner’s appeal.
Playing traditional music overhead, the heavily wooded space interestingly wrapped around a large tree growing at the center, it was with decisions made that a heavily tattooed server soon brought a bowl of Green Sauce, the sourness and Herbs more pronounced that what was served at Zum Eichkatzerl and the Apfelwein also better thanks to more crispness plus developed vinegary notes.
Waiting perhaps fifteen minutes for Food, a pair of older Women fluent in English making conversation that unfortunately turned to American Politics, it was with good timing that two plates arrived simultaneously, the “Frankfurt Style” Pork Schnitzel more thickly breaded than some, perhaps to stand up to the Green Sauce, while Fried Potatoes were buttery, soft and liberally salted.
Moving next to Bratwurst, both the half-meter Sausage and accompanying Sauerkraut made on-site, suffice it to say that both on their own were enjoyable while the combination was fantastic, an adjective equally applicable to Cinnamon Apples nestled between Pastry Leafs alongside Whipped Cream, Vanilla Ice Cream and Crème Anglaise.
Part Patisserie plus a Restaurant upstairs, it is at Braubachstrasse 24 that guests will find Iimori, and with elements of France as well as Japan incorporated into the space’s design the difference from Frankfurt’s otherwise Viennese and Hessen baking traditions is noteworthy.
Located in the touristy part of town, Altstadt’s diversity of Churches within walking distance, Iimori opens its doors at 09h00 on weekdays and an hour later on weekends, the sub-10€ Breakfast Buffet proving popular amongst a largely Asian clientele while Pastries, Cakes and Coffee at the counter are additionally offered for dine-in or takeaway.
Laid out like a living room, plush chairs and low tables offering a comfortable place to relax with free Wi-Fi, patrons opting to dine-in will find a multi-lingual staff ready to offer both recommendations and table service, first bites of a bright pink “Melon Pan” reminiscent of Mexican Concha with better rise while traditional Pan An featured stretchy Egg-bread filled liberally with mashed Red Beans.
Less impressed by Iimori’s Almond Croissant, a lateral cut filled with overly-sweet Frangipane compromising both taste and texture, it was surprising that a Donut sprinkled by Matcha-infused Sugar proved the meal’s very best bite thanks to a soft and elastic Crumb while the Mont Blanc Cake Roll was moist and enjoyable despite the dearth of Chestnut flavor.
Located on the west side of the city, and operating through two World Wars, Confiserie Graff focuses on recipes and techniques dating back nearly 200 years in a cozy setting that tourists will rarely see.
Originally opened in 1832 and family owned since, accolades lining their walls predating both patrons as well as staff, it is immediately on entry that guests are surrounded on three sides by shelves and racks lined in sweets, some pre-packaged but the majority made that morning by Bakers who arrive around 03h00.
German language and cash only, a situation common to Bakeries outside major tourist areas, it is only after navigating at least four-dozen choices that first-time guests should begin making choices, Cheesecake strongly recommended by the clerk proving thick and not over-sweetened while a slice of Bee Sting Cake upgraded by Apples maintained its familiar consistency thanks to Almonds on top plus buttery Crust along the bottom.
Joined by four businessmen in the tiny dining area, all sipping Espresso alongside a Croissant, it was as they chatted that attention turned to similar Pastry with Almonds and Marzipan, the lamination somewhat lacking though flavor was good while an Apple Danish to follow fared similarly but much sweeter thanks to a generous drizzle of Icing.
Attempting to save the best for last, a sphere labeled “Rodeiheimer Kranz” eating much like Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte minus Chocolate, it was for lack of Apple Strudel that a Lattice filled with Raspberries was selected, each bite dense with macerated Fruit complete with Seeds plus plenty of Butter.
Found in the Sachsenhausen area of Frankfurt, not far from the river, Zum Eichkatzerl has achieved modest acclaim as an Apfelweinbar, but as dinner on Sunday proved the kitchen is quite capable of turning out good versions of classic Hessen Cuisine at fair prices.
Open for dinner nightly, weekends beginning at 16h00 and the rest an hour later, it is once past an interior garden that guests find a heavily wooded interior decorated by squirrels and communal tables, just one elderly gentleman who “comes almost every day” inside, chatting quietly with the bartender.
Bilingual to an extent, though just two servers in addition to the bar man serving at least seventy guests did not allow much time to chat, it was from a menu provided in English that decisions were made, a €2 glass of house Apfelwein sweet with a bit of minerality that was refreshing in a room with temperatures hovering around 26 °C.
Popular with locals, a table of lager-heads next to another full of Asians enjoying Pork Knuckle, it was after being informed that the kitchen was “out” of Spatzle that Appetizers arrived, the cleverly-named “Sachsenhauser Tapas” offering six selections including Pork Sausage and boiled Rib plus Homemade Cheese Cream, Green Sauce and Hard Cheese marinated with Onions that went particularly well with slices of Brown Bread.
Opting for Butter-fried Fried Potatoes as an alternative to Noodles, these and a Salad topped in Corn serviceable but not noteworthy, it was nearly an hour after sitting down that a “small” order of Pork Schnitzel arrived slightly overcooked, browned edges a bit tough though the center was good both on its own and with a squeeze of Lemon.
Not offering Apple Strudel or any other German specialties as Dessert, the “fresh baked” Chocolate Cake thus decided upon to finish, it was after fifteen minutes that a round of Lava Cake was delivered, a molten center admittedly unexpected based on menu verbiage but both texture and flavor good, as was the thick Crème Anglaise.
Pistacchio di Bronte, Il Sogno del Montalbano, Stracciatella on a Waffle Cone
Based on the traditions of Firenze Italy it is to Eissalon Firenze that many inhabitants of Frankfurt turn for a cold treat, and on Sunday the riverfront Gelateria was found firing on all cylinders as guests lined up with a line consistently a dozen deep.
Not a place for obscure flavors, the focus instead on ingredients that include imported Sicilian Pistachios and Vanilla from Madagascar, it is while queued with families that one can see staff carefully scooping bowls and cones plus novelties like Brioche Sandwiches, the prices surprisingly low with €3 yielding a Waffle Cone packed by three flavors.
Using high-fat Cream and not a lot of added Sugar, the resultant product smooth and creamy, it was after brief perusal on-approach that selections were made without tasting, the first lick of Stracciatella attesting to good base ribboned by crackling Chocolate while “Il Sogno del Montalbano” is subtly flavored by Hazelnuts with texture and taste dialed up by Biscotti Crumbles and Cocoa.
Trying to save Pistachio for last, a small Gelato trowel aiding the cause, it was not since Milan that such purity came across in something frozen, whether any sweetener at all was added questionable and the quantity of Nuts incorporated making one wonder how Eissalon Firenze keeps prices so low.
With nearly fifty locations Merzenich Bakery is essentially synonymous with Bread in Cologne, but even though the shops have been family-owned since 1896 it should come as no surprise that a company so large is prone to taking shortcuts that compromise both quality and customer service.
Found largely in areas prone to foot traffic, the storefront at Neumarkt most popular due to outdoor seating just steps away from Cologne Cathedral, it was after crossing a line of tourists that products both sweet and savory came into view, a chaotic scene at 15h30 admittedly unexpected and staff struggling to keep up.
Divided across several counters plus a push cart, all offering Bernhard Merzenich’s famous Nougatbrezel but other choices varied, it was after brief survey that three options were selected, an older employee unable to accept payment and thus passing guests off to a younger woman with a sour disposition.
Charged just over €5, and exiting to find seating less frantic, it was minutes later that teeth penetrated a still-warm Doughnut, the Brioche base a little overworked and thus too chewy while perhaps a teaspoon of Jam added almost nothing.
Opting to taste a traditional Almond Horn next, nearby Pigeons far more satisfied by the Berliner than this guest, it was a mistake in retrospect to finish each bite bound by Macaroon-like paste before testing the Nougat Pretzel, because for all its fame the taste was nowhere near on par with other Bakeries in Germany while the texture made it seem likely to have been hanging around for awhile.
Vendôme Celebrations – Mini-Magnum with Strawberry, Strawberry Marshmallow, “Snickers,” Chocolates
Toqued by Joachim Wissler since 2000, and holding three Michelin stars since 2004, Restaurant Vendôme is located approximately thirty minutes east of Cologne inside Grand Hotel Schloss Bensberg, the surrounding environs beautifully manicured and clientele largely well-heeled Europeans.
One of over fifty starred-Chefs trained on the grounds of Traube Tonbach, a career that began in 1980 jumping indirectly from Schwarzwaldstube to Schloss Bensberg where a style marked by whimsy quickly caught the eye of critics, it is now nearly two decades later that Wissler continues to cook inside the small kitchen, a team at his side crafting edible works of art offered via one of several tasting menus.
Light and airy in ambiance, just twelve tables and less than forty diners seated Wednesday through Sunday including weekend lunch, it is from underground parking that guests pass through gardens en route to refinements, staff proper but not at all stiff and happy to answer questions or grant requests.
Priced €165 to €295 exclusive of Wine, each menu presenting choices along the way, it is even before decisions are made that diners are greeted with Aperitifs and small bites, a quartet of flavors immediately showing Chef Wissler’s fondness for modernity and highlighted by Goose Liver “Peanut Butter Cups” as well as an airy Cookie sandwiching hand-cut Wagyu topped in Osetra Caviar.
Opting for Chef’s largest “symphony,” a nearly four-hour opus consisting of ten-courses that followed opening bites with warm Bread and Butter from Bernard Antony, it was while indulging in a Roll dotted by Olives that locally produced Riesling was poured, the minerality and complex acidity playing well of a first plate of thinly sliced liver “Mi Cuit” topped by Bivalves and no less interesting as a partner to Octopus lacquered by Beets next to Tabouli with a sidecar of Cephalopod Sausage atop Tuna Tartare.
Lucky to visit during Spring, the region’s bounty and Joachim’s obsession with coaxing the most out of superior Ingredients both on full display, it would be difficult to deem either course three or four the meal’s best as both were magnificent, first a poached Egg tanned by Miso beneath Parmesan “Snow,” and then snappy Lobster served in two compositions with one brightened by Peppers and Tomatoes while the other found added sweetness from Melon perfumed by Vanilla.
Saucing almost every dish tableside, aromas drifting upward as compositions were described at length, it was by roasting the remains that Char from Lech Valley took on depth to match roasted Leeks and balled Apples, Bones again coming into play as service piece for domestic Wagyu nearly raw with a bit of salt and condiments including Salted Plum and Creamed Corn molded to look like the real thing.
Taking the Maître D’s advice to finish with Lamb instead of Guinea Fowl, three cuts including Offal wrapped by a Crepe dazzling in part due to bold spicing covering a wide swath of Asia, it was transitioning from savory to sweet that fun again was on display via a composed Cheese dish featuring molten Fourme d’Ambert at the center of a Doughnut and Williams Christ Pear Sorbet atop Blue Crumbles on the side.
Taking Cheese even sweeter for the first of two Desserts, Quark and a mellow Cow’s Milk variety forming both Cake and Crème Brulee accompanied by Raspberries, it was admittedly Vendôme’s most unexpected triumph that saw Asparagus used not once but thrice in an elegant finale, the bowl of Ganache particularly memorable before finishing up with traditional German Cookies, Marshmallows, a housemade Magnum and Snickers Bar.
