Although Shiraz has been slow to find its audience inside the old Habib’s space there is no doubt Raja Abdul Majid and Chef Jainine Jaffer are capable of feeding a crowd, and on Thursday the Restaurant at 2575 South Decatur Boulevard once again came through with a diversity of options to please a wide range of palates.
Always on time and never neglecting the essentials, everything from plates and utensils to temperature-appropriate Cuisine making it easy to #supportlocal instead of a chain, this spread focused largely on the Indian side of Shiraz’s menu after starting with Hummus and a Salad tossed with tangy Vinaigrette plus Beef Kebabs predictably gone fast.
Additionally seeing Samosas with Tamarind Chutney popular, as too was herbed Yogurt atop fresh-baked Naan, it was amongst staff who prefer spice that Chicken Lollipops with Honey Chili Sauce slowly disappeared, Rice with Goat a tougher sell for some but a big hit with an Indian Physician and those with more open minds.
Happy to receive a tray of Tahdig, the crispy Rice’s Persian origins irrelevant to enjoying it as a base to everything from Bhagare Baingan to Butter Chicken, it was surprising that many guests praised Mutton liberally perfumed by Cinnamon and Cloves as well as Spinach and Cheese for those choosing to focus on vegetarian Fare.
Never a complete meal without Halwa, this time made with Squash plus Fruit and Nuts creating a diversity of texture, it was as a bonus that Chef Jaffer also included Vegan Sabudana Kheer made with Tapioca, Coconut Milk and plenty of Cardamom.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone the professionalism of Shiraz’s program is everything one might hope for, $15 per diner yielding enough Food to feed at least twice as many guests with everything delivered temperature appropriate and delicious as ever.
TIP: Contact Shiraz via online form, Telephone (702) 870-0860 or Email info@shirazrestaurant.com for Catering inquires or checkout ezcater.com to do it on your own.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Porterhouse Pork Chop – Rum Brine, Grilled Broccoli Rabe, Pickled Mustard Seeds, Rum Jus
Stout Chocolate Cake – Dark Chocolate Ganache, Cherries, Cocoa Nib, Sea Salt
Fried Apple Pie – Cinnamon Whipped Cream, Pecan Dust
Although Atomic Liquors has existed since 1952 it is far more recently that The Kitchen at Atomic has emerged as a downtown destination, its migration from Bar Food to creative American Cuisine begun by Justin Kingsley Hall and now carried on by Chef Jackson Stamper since February.
Only open for two years, the debut of Carson Kitchen in June of 2014 expanding DTLV’s idea of what dining could be and giving Atomic owner Lance Johns an idea to open his own eatery, it is alongside the famous dive-bar where guests used to watch nuclear testing from the roof that The Kitchen is located, a 21+ age-limit noteworthy for both spaces as a result of the adjoining patio.
Devoid of televisions and instead entertaining diners with music ranging from The Beach Boys to Aerosmith, a widely-spaced interior nicely designed with big booths and tables, it is by pleasant hostesses and an educated staff that diners are welcomed from Wednesday to Sunday, the all-new menu concisely divided into four sections plus Dessert tucked in the back of an extensive Cocktail and Spirit list.
Best classified as “market-driven” in its inspiration, Stamper’s five years as Executive Chef at New York’s Employees Only gifting him with an idea of how to introduce a Bar or Speakeasy crowd to boldly flavored Food with a focus on ingredients, it is after selecting one of several Cocktails including a smoky “Percussion Gun” or Tiki-inspired “Life’s a Beach” that ordering ensues, nearly half the items Vegetable focused and several able to be made Vegan.
Combining “Small Plates” and “For The Table” as Appetizers, though “Sides” such as Heirloom Carrots charred with Spices also may qualify, it was alongside those Carrots that three dishes started things off, both Sugar Snap and English Peas singing of Spring atop tangy Yogurt Dressing while grilled Beans greater than a foot in length performed beautifully as a base to medium-potency Feta and Tomatoes roasted to concentrate their sweetness.
Only getting to Meat after three plates, melting nuggets of Marrow liberated from the Bone and offered alongside shades of red both sweet and earthy, it was returning to Produce that two additional plates arrived, squeaky Halloumi unfortunately a bit overwhelmed by Mint but Chef Stamper’s Cauliflower Steak absolutely brilliant in terms of flavor with a bevy of textures equally prone to please Vegetarians and Carnivores.
Already celebrating a 14oz Bone-in Pork Chop as something of a signature, the use of Rum in Brine as well as Sauce adding depth to both tender Flesh and grilled Rabe, those seeking Steak can consider Creekstone Ribeye sold at $3.50 per ounce if dining as a group, or the 10oz Hanger cooked expertly and served atop bitter Vegetables brightened by Burnt Orange Vinaigrette.
Hoping to eventually differentiate the Restaurant from its famous Bar, a work in progress that may become further muddled as Jackson and Mr. Johns plan to debut a separate menu of patio plates this summer, those seeking a bit of whimsy right now should not pass on Desserts including Chocolate Cake enriched by Beer and boozy Cherries or a Fried Apple Pie that eats light like Funnel Cake but with lots of subtle nuances thanks to aromatic Whipped Cream and ground Pecans.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Although Justin Kingsley Hall deserves thanks for helping to elevate The Kitchen at Atomic beyond Burgers and Wings, it is from new Chef Jackson Stamper that the menu has transitioned to produce-focused seasonal plates that equally warrant the attention of not just downtown denizens but diners across the Valley.
RECOMMENDED: Life’s a Beach, Spring Pea Salad, Grilled Long Beans, Bone Marrow, Cauliflower Steak, Porterhouse Pork Chop, Fried Apple Pie.
AVOID: Grilled Halloumi Cheese needs less Mint, though it can be avoided by picking around it by those who know their Herbs.
TIP: Wednesday – 5 PM to 11 PM, Thursday – 5 PM to 11 PM, Friday – 5 PM to 12 AM, Saturday – 5 PM to 12 AM. Sunday – 5 PM to 11 PM.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Green Onion Brioche – Gruyere Cheese, Bechamel Sauce, side Salad
Blueberry Bostock
Chocolate-dipped Palmier
Pear Tarte
Lemon Tarte with Raspberry Jam
Always one of the first stops upon return from overseas, nearly 3,000km of Germany doing nothing to disprove personal beliefs that Las Vegas is home to a world-class Bakery, it was on Sunday that Rosallie was found full-to-capacity with Christophe and staff putting on a fine showing in terms of both service and Cuisine.
Now a part of Sin City since August of 2015, Jonathan Pluvinet’s transformation of the former 7-Eleven into ‘Le French Café’ a tale of skill and determination that has since seen him open a second location outside of Orlando, guests entering 6090 South Rainbow Boulevard will find the space more welcoming now than ever with a menu that continues to expand.
Open daily from 7:00am until 6:00pm, everything from Quiche and Croissants to Wine and Cheese available throughout the day, it is from a counter lined in Viennoiserie that orders are placed, table service soon to follow with most opting to begin with house-blended Coffee Beans in the form of Cappuccino, French Press or Latte.
Assuredly a Café in the French sense, an atmosphere conducive to conversation, work or relaxation found throughout divided spaces including a library and private room, those looking for a good place to start need look no further than Pastries created by Jonathan and his family since 1983 in France, the hiring of former Jean-Philippe baker Christophe as Rosallie’s General Manager only improving items such as an Almond Croissant made with hand-ground Nuts instead of Frangipane.
No less show-stopping in terms of Tartes and Pies, the Valley’s only known version featuring Walnuts but one example of Pluvinet’s respect for French tradition, savory options also fit the bill ranging from Sandwiches and Salads to several types of Quiche served atop all-Butter Crust and filled with ingredients such as Bacon, Potatoes and melted Tartiflette Cheese.
Treated to Green Onion Brioche that eats like portable French Onion Soup on this recent visit, daily specials not uncommon but sometimes difficult to choose over something so enjoyable as “L’Americaine Tartine” with laminated Dough beneath Honey Cured Bacon, Mozzarella Cheese and a runny Egg, first-timers or those who have not visited in a while should also be sure to check out Rosallie’s Brioche, whether served as French Toast with a choice of toppings or as the base to Blueberry-studded Bostock.
FIVE STARS: Truly a case of the best only getting better, this visit to the corner of Rainbow Boulevard and Patrick Lane finding Le Café busier than ever, Jonathan and Christophe continue to add more reasons to visit in terms of atmosphere, Food, Beverage and customer service.
AVOID: Rosallie’s Bechamel would benefit by slicing Onions thinner or fully incorporating them in the Sauce.
TIP: Follow @rosallielefrenchcafe on Social Media for specials at both locations, and for those who can’t make it in consider online orders by Yelp! or Grubhub.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Although Alexxa’s Bar replaced HeXX’s Candy store nearly eighteen months ago the concept remains poorly differentiated, a fact ownership clearly finds undesirable as judged by frequent menu changes, though that may just be a benefit to fans as it offers plenty of reasons for return visits.
Serving from 4:00pm until 2:00am daily, but additionally acting as overflow during HeXX’s popular Brunch and thus adding further confusion to where one Restaurant “ends” or the other “begins,” those looking for Alexxa will find the space facing right away from Las Vegas Boulevard, a menu of shared plates and Bar full of Top-shelf Spirits particularly tempting as temperatures grow warmer.
Not lacking a fantastic view of Bellagio’s famous fountains, no doubt part of HeXX and Mon Ami Gabi’s year-long al fresco appeal, it is by friendly servers that guests are greeted and seated, tables and high tops both available for groups while furniture for lounging surrounds a small stage populated nightly by bands and DJs including the likes of Shaquille O’Neal.
Smart to start with Sangria, a bounty of seasonal flavors still not enough to dissuade return customers from a sweet Summer Fling or “Bubbly” with Stone Fruits and Strawberries, course one started off cheesy in a good way, Texas Queso marred only by too little Pretzel Bread for so much spicy Cheddar while thick slices of Texas Toast were lightly grilled in support of creamy Goat Cheese, crisp Pears and Walnuts drizzled in Honey.
Moving next to fried Foods, plump Wings spun Asian by Soy-soaked Pineapple while Fish n’ Chips take notes from Japan in using Tempura rather than Beer Batter, it was only after finishing every bite of moist and flaky Flesh that two Italian options arrived, Chef Carlos Buscaglia’s time at Fiamma and Due Forni showing in smashed Meatballs on Ciabatta plus a generously sized Calzone stuffed with Sausage and Peppers.
Opting for Coffee to accompany Dessert, a pair of favorites from HeXX plus Alexxa’s bargain-priced Naked Cake joined by three soon-to-debut items created by Pastry Chef Miranda Prince, those looking for a true taste of Summer are strongly urged to stop by for Blueberry Cobbler punctuated by crumbled Corn Cookies while guests fond of a lighter finish will not be disappointed by Yuzu Panna Cotta brightened by Strawberry Prosecco Consommé or Lychee Granita that tastes as fresh as it sounds without seeming limited despite being Vegan, Gluten-less and Dairy-free.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Although ownership continues to struggle with separating Alexxa’s Bar from HeXX it has nonetheless proven fortuitous for guests, and although the menu may not seem quite as cohesive now as it did at first the flavors and portions still offer a great bargain considering location as well as ingredients.
Beef Hot Links, Lean Brisket, Fatty Brisket, Tri-Tip, Smoked Turkey, Jalapeno & Cheese Hot Links
Pecan Pie
Now a part of Henderson’s dining scene for over three years, and Sin City’s best place for Barbecue just as long, it was at 11:30am that the smell of Big B’s Texas BBQ began to drift forth from the conference room, staff quick to arrive for what was once again an overabundance of smoked Meat and housemade Sides.
Undoubtedly an office favorite, and likely soon to be more so with Brian and Natalia taking over the old Andre’s Bistro & Bar at 6115 South Fort Apache Road, guests this time found familiar favorites purchased by a representative who “only” uses Big B’s for speaking engagements across the Valley.
Texas through and through, wood driven up from the Lone Star State just one reason why Big B’s Brisket and Turkey outpace growing competition, there was really no surprise when Macaroni and Cheese as well as Hot Links were quickly depleted, and with the addition of Sausage speckled by Jalapeno and Cheddar those craving extra heat also got their fix.
Not reliant on gimmicks, just real-deal ‘cue at a fair price, additional Meats included Tri-Tip and two types of Pork, the Ribs particularly juicy on this occasion while BBQ Beans, Creamed Corn and moist Cornbread Muffins all performed well as side dishes before finishing up with gooey slices of Pecan Pie.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, when new representatives begin calling on our office it often takes some adjusting, but once they begin to understand how and why #supportlocal matters the effort is almost universally praised. In the case of Takeda, however, a new level has been reached as their speaker not only wants Big B’s every time he is at The Docs, but everywhere else including meals on his own at the Restaurant.
RECOMMENDED: Fatty Brisket, Hot Links, Smoked Turkey, Mac & Cheese, BBQ Beans, Cornbread, Pecan Pie.
TIP: Available via Yelp! Online Ordering, GrubHub, EZCater or calling the Restaurant directly the staff at Big B’s makes catering easy and efficient in addition to offering great value on the dollar.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Located at a distance from Frankfurt’s tourist corridor, Zur Golden Kron has nonetheless gathered a reputation amongst in-the-know diners, its 15/20 rating by Gault Millau quite impressive for what is essentially a casual Restaurant and Tavern, though the Food and Beverage both set a high standard for the genre.
Only part of Frankfurt’s Eschersheim neighborhood since mid-2017, the 350+ year old building unoccupied for some time before Chef Alfred Friedrich and Sommelier Pit Punda purchased the property after the former departed Michelin 2** Lafleur, it is via sites including Opentable that guests are able to make reservations, something indeed necessary as the both indoors and out were filled from 17h00 to 20h00, and likely straight through to midnight.
Not aiming for Michelin accolades, but instead focused on regional specialties and memories from Chef Friedrich’s Austrian childhood, it is with minimal English spoken and menus printed only in German that Zur Golden Kron operates, a bit of Google Translate via free Wi-Fi paying dividends across two courses served at a leisurely pace given the crowd of fifty or more and only three men in the kitchen.
Beginning with housemade Bread, not the best but still a serviceable Sourdough, it was with a gentle breeze blowing that guests waited while watching a family of eight celebrate the birthday of an elderly gentleman, course one arriving some thirty minutes later and comprised of local Charcuterie alongside a 39€ slice of Foie Gras whose small portion and precious price was thankfully justified by it being peerlessly seared and served amidst fresh Mushrooms, pickled Peppers and poached Cherries.
Made to wait nearly twenty minutes for empty plates to be cleared, just two servers in constant motion throughout the meal, it was a full sixty minutes later that Entrees arrived, the Spanish Pig impressive in its texture and accoutrements while Wiener Schnitzel compared favorably to the best in town, as too did the satin-smooth Potatoes mixed with Lamb’s Tongue Lettuce.
A repeat winner of several awards in Frankfurt, and continuously sporting a queue, Das Eis purports to be one of Germany’s most popular purveyors of Ice Cream, though based on a single visit the shop’s notoriety seems more dependent on a high-traffic location than anything about the product itself.
Found just a few meters from museums, churches and the shops of Altstadt, opening hours of 12h00 on weekdays and 10h00 on Saturday ongoing till 18h00, it was after a brief wait that English-fluent servers placed three scoops in a bowl for 6€, the hard-packed texture immediately off-putting with “The Pancake” over-churned to the point of crystallization and only Butterkeks offering any real depth thanks to the roasted Nuts mingling with Chocolate and Shortbread.
Lohninger’s “Kaiserschmarrn,” Styrian Apple Puree, Bourbon Vanilla Ice Cream
Opened in 2010 along the Main River in Frankfurt, Restaurant Lohniger suggests a culinary concept that is both “Home and World,” plates referencing Chef’s childhood set alongside Italian and Austrian staples with proper execution across the board.
The eponymous home of Mario Lohninger, a man born in the Alps and subsequently trained by Chefs including Guy Savoy, Wolfgang Puck and David Bouley, it was during time in New York and California that the Chef took interest in the sort of fusion taking place at Danube and Spago, an influence since brought back to Germany and a setting clad in white linen.
Open daily at Schweizer Strasse 1, an abundance of foot traffic made heavier by weekend street markets poised to create issues for those driving, it is with reservations suggested that diners are invited to enjoy lunch or dinner, each featuring a la carte options from sections titled “Childhood” and “New World” while evenings also suggest a seasonal tasting that can be ordered at one price or in individual courses.
Starting every table with an Amuse, the air upscale but family friendly, it was after sipping chilled Cherry Soup that Lohninger’s housemade Bread arrived, two slices of Focaccia and Rye each warm with the latter particularly sour and nicely highlighted by salted local Butter.
Still sated from an early morning visit to Erzeugermarkt Konstablerwache, and thus focusing on items recommended by staff as well as friends, Appetizers were omitted in favor of two “Childhood” classics, the guitar-cut Pasta cooked to peerless consistency amidst good Sauce while golden Veal Schnitzel benefitted from higher quality Meat aged to tenderize plus warm Potato Salad brightened by Capers.
Further displaying Puck’s influence by including Asian-accented Salads, but retaining classic sensibility with Goulash as well as Cheese Ravioli, it is digging into Austria’s past that most tables finish with a favorite of Franz Joseph I, the “Emperor’s Mess” or Kaiserschmarrn soft and tossed with Powdered Sugar that tastes great on its own, but better with imported Apples and Cinnamon, Vanilla Ice Cream or both.
Vogelsberger Kartoffel und Bärlauchbratwurst – Currywurst mit Brot
Original Vogelsberger Holzofenbrot – Roggen Knusperstange
Original Vogelsberger Holzofenbrot – Quarkbällchen
Original Vogelsberger Holzofenbrot – Berliner Himbeere
Original Vogelsberger Holzofenbrot – Bienenstich
Original Vogelsberger Holzofenbrot – Rhabarberkuchen
Bio-Bauernhof Wingenfeld – Rhöner Bratwurst mit Brot / Rhöner Rindwurst mit Brot
Maja’s Backwaren – Grosse Brezel
Maja’s Backwaren – Marmonkuchen
Maja’s Backwaren – Verschiedene Kaffeestückchen
Maja’s Backwaren – Donauwelle
Open on Thursday and Saturday as the largest artisan market in Frankfurt, Erzeugermarkt Konstablerwache offers everything from Lamb Skins or Riesling to handmade Sausages, Cheese and Pastry at prices that are much lower than other stands, shops or restaurants throughout the city.
A conglomeration of some fifty kiosks and carts, the bulk Cash-only and fluent only in German, it is beginning at 08h00 that the Altstadt area begins to fill with patrons, several Chefs in white seen examining Produce or organic Meats while roasters fired their grills in preparation for the nine hours to follow.
Located at Konstablerwache 12, a nearby metro stop providing access since parking fills quickly, it was after taking a look around that stop one was made at a table between Vogelsberger Kartoffel und Bärlauchbratwurst and Original Vogelsberger Holzofenbrot, the former’s Currywurst intensely spiced but a touch sweet while Pastries from two Women first impressed by way of their Caramelized Hazelnut Braid, then with soft and springy Doughnuts.
A bit underwhelmed by Vogelsberger Holzofenbrot’s Berliner, the Jam off-centered and skimpy, better bites were found amidst Bee Sting Cake shellacked in Almonds as well as their buttery Pie Crust brushed with Custard and topped with poached Rhubarb juxtaposing big chunks of Brown Sugar Streusel.
Strolling further, a few choices including made-to-order Waffles debated, it was instead on Sausage and Pastry that Euros were again spent, the handmade Brat and Rindwurst from Bio-Bauernhof Wingenfeld both snappy over a great grind while Maja’s Backwaren impressed with the best Pretzel found in Frankfurt for just 1€.
Performing equally well with Marble Cake, the Crumb course but moist with Butter, it was a bit unfortunate that most of Maja’s goods were sold in family-size portions, though the Poppy Seed Danish called Verschiedene Kaffeestückchen was delicious and managable for one while Donauwelle weighing almost half a kilogram more than justified its 4€ price by eating something like a Cream Cheese Brownie dialed up by Sour Cherries.
European Bass Ceviche, Mussels, Sea Urchin Tiger Milk
Amberjack, Oysters, Apple, Iodine Aromas
Blue Fin Tuna, Myoga, Pickled Radish, Kojyu
Green Asparagus, Sumac, Miso Caramel, Japanese Hollandaise
Langoustine, Koshuhikari, Abalone, Daikon
Kinmedai, Hearts of Palm, Yuzu-Koshu, XO-Oil
For all intents and purposes “the” destination meal of a trip to Germany, Victor’s Fine Dining by Christian Bau will forever be remembered as the second Michelin 3* Restaurant walked out of, nearly four hours after sitting down and still with several plates to go as the staff largely ignored the solo American in favor of tables speaking German.
26 minutes *average* between courses, including Amuse and Course 1. Guest inquiries about technique or ingredients met by “I don’t know” or “I’ll find out” with no answer. Empty plates lingering on the table for nine minutes in a room with 1:3 ratio of servers to diners. Same scene repeated every course, such that kitchen could would never know if one table could benefit from faster pacing. And to cap it off, an e-mail to the restaurant explaining the issues entirely ignored.
No matter how good the Food, and yes the Langoustine was stunning, there is simply no excuse for an experience so poor, and particularly not at this level or a cost of over 200€ after a quarter was sliced of the total for items skipped en route to better Restaurants.
Located in the town of Trier, and considered by many to be one of Germany’s best Ice Cream Parlors, it was en route to dinner that a stop was made at Christis – Eis & Kaffee, a warm final day of May finding the queue lengthy with locals but also a few families speaking French and English.
Referencing Italy in its style, but not going so far as to call the frozen flavors Gelato as the base is actually a recipe from Thuringia, it is with no artificial flavors or colors that guests will find an array of choices, a few Baked Goods in addition to cones or cups offered to-go while those dining in may also select from a multitude of Sundaes.
Machine-churned in small batches, a few Vegan and dairy-free options even offered, it was on approach that decisions were made, just 1.10€ a scoop an entirely fair price for intense flavors suspended in smoothness, a surcharge for Pistachio entirely justified for robust toasty notes while the Rum Raisin is so boozy it would probably require a 21+ year old restriction if sold in The United States.
Although Saarbrücken is the capital of its respective German state the city appears largely industrial to passers-by, a fact that belies the presence of a Michelin 3* Restaurant from Klaus Erfort plus several nearby bakeries including Café Steigleiter at Arndtstrasse 27.
An eponymous Konditorei and Bäckerei since 1961, Chef Steigleiter having since expanded to three total outlets in the area, it is immediately upon entering stylish confines that quality craftsmanship is evident, Loaves and Cakes first drawing looks thanks to their size but Pralines, Chocolate Bars and even savories such as Sandwiches also present in addition to a small seating area.
Likely not frequented by tourists, staff nonetheless doing their best to explain items to visitors who spoke only English, it was with five items for just 11€ that a sale was made, the first taste of Steigleiter’s Mohnschnecke featuring good lamination and plenty of Poppy Seeds beneath more Icing than other places but not so much that the Viennesoire was too sweet.
Next taking a chance on two regional items suggested by staff, the Schokokuss apparently a play on German Chocolate-covered Marshmallows sold commercially, it was with Meringue lightness that Choux was filled, the Donauwellerollen to follow also a modification of the original Snow White Cake made from equal amounts Vanilla Sponge and Cream plus Cherries shellacked in White and Dark Chocolate.
Not about to pass on Black Forest Cake, Steigleiter’s unfortunately less moist than those found at Bareiss or Sachsenhäuser despite similar cost, it was bouncing back strong that tasting ended with Rhubarb and Custard, a light hint of Almond helping to soften the sours in a manner far more elegant than other Bakeries who instead rely on Sugar to accomplish the same.
Canapés – Black Pudding-Harzer Cheese Tartlet, Oyster with Chili Vinaigrette, Liquid Quail Sphere, Leek and Potato Sphere, Goose Liver with Sour Cherry Jelly
Petit Fours – Coffee Chocolate Opera Cake, Pomegranate Marshmallow, Ginger Lime Macaron, Pineapple Coconut Tartelet, Orange Caramel Choux, Raspberry Almond Bar
Espresso – Cream, Molasses, Sugar
Petit Fours – Canele, Madeline
Earning a first Michelin Star at age 21, prior to opening his eponymous Restaurant in 2002 and achieving 3* by 2008, Chef Klaus Erfort remains less celebrated than many of Germany’s elder-statesman, though lunch on the patio at the end of May proved not only enjoyable but well-priced considering both ingredient quality and service.
Approximately two-hours southwest of Frankfurt, a stately townhouse in Saarbrücken not far from the capital building containing the Restaurant in front of a small garden, it was after passing through a room of monochromatic art beneath high ceilings that a comfortable table was offered, the presence of a cigarette smoker fifty meters away not offending those nearest the building but nonetheless unexpected and hopefully not compromising the enjoyment of those seated closer.
Offering both lunch and dinner Tuesday through Friday, and dinner service only Saturday, it is with the choice of dining a la carte or via tasting that guests are presented, lunch additionally encouraging guests to succumb to Chef Erfort’s whim of four courses flanked by surprises, Champagne and Coffee for just 115€.
A serene setting, an occasional leaf falling from trees the lone interruption save for quiet conversation, it was with a glass of Sparkling Rose from Ruinart that Canapes arrived, a spicy Oyster unexpected considering the venue while modernist Spheres were each intensely salted before proceeding to Goose Liver Terrine and Jam plus housemade Blood Sausage on a Cheese Cracker.
Not short on table bread, four choices highlighted by a steamy Olive Loaf ready to be slicked in local Butter, the afternoon’s amuse arrived as large as a proper course, both Tuna preparations well prepared and the use of Sorbet to impart Acid surprising in its ability to compliment everything including Garlic.
Continuing with house-cured Salmon, the second use of Sorbet a bit questionable as it was largely melted and made irrelevant by Vinaigrette plus thinly sliced curls, course two was an a la carte addition for 48€, the smooth liver and sweet Meat beautiful in terms of taste and texture but yet another appearance of something frozen frankly embarrassing as it causes one to question Erfort’s creativity.
Joking with the server “lots of Ice Cream…” when asked about the meal so far, a language barrier presumably leading to the answer of “very good, thank you,” it was fortunate that lunch plate two was not only Sorbet-free but exquisite, nearly a half Blue Lobster immersed in Hazelnut Butter fortified by its Carapace and topped by Mushrooms both raw and seared.
Reputed for his grilled Meats, a 130€ Beef Cutlet for two amongst Erfort’s unchanging “Grand Classiques” it was with something more manageable for one that savories came to a close, approximately 450g of seared Lamb served atop snappy Beans and flanked by Tomato textures plus Eggplant.
Omitting a palate cleanser and proceeding straight to Dessert, early Summer’s bounty of Rhubarb seeing it smartly utilized to brighten a malty Parfait, Petit Fours arrived as six with all good but the Raspberry Bar outstanding while Espresso alongside a warm Madeline was textbook, though less so was a Canele too dark on the outside and undercooked at the center.
Located inside Frankfurt Central Station (Main Hauptbahnhof,) Gmeiner Frankfurt is one of nine international outlets for the boutique serving customers since 1898, and with a commitment to high quality regional raw materials hand-crafted according to traditional recipes the results are expectedly good, though pricey and not fresh like those of local Bakeries.
For all intents and purposes a kiosk, searching from paid parking placing it far left of the main entrance looking towards train tracks, it is upon entry that guests are greeted by multi-lingual staff, at least French, English and German overheard in the course of ten minutes spent decision making and paying the nearly 20€ tab.
Best known as a Chocolatier, but also a Confiserie with elegant Meringues, Cakes and Candies, it was taking items to a standing table inside the terminal that tasting commenced mere minutes after purchase, the crisp snap of sugar first yielding surprisingly subtle sweetness bolstering toasted Pistachios before the Cocoa-dusted version presented more predictably sugared but still texturally elegant.
Looking next at Gmeiner’s Linzer Torte, its premade nature predictably compromising Crust that seems to be made of Oats and ground Almonds, the better choice for Pastry comes as a polished Dark Chocolate Tart that is soft at its center while Chocolate Bars in an array of intensities seem well-crafted based on a single choice of 40% blended with Honey and thinly sliced Nuts.
Embracing the motto “Quality is an effort which is worthwhile” for over 80 years, Bäckerei Hanss at Brückenstrasse 56 in Frankfurt continues to impress locals and visitors today with time-honored recipes and photogenic presentations.
Part of Sachsenhausen-Nord, some separation from the competition along Schweizer Strasse allowing the kitchen at Hanss freedom to be creative and charge a bit less, it is beginning at 06h00 Monday through Saturday that shelves can be found fully stocked with Breads, Cakes and Confections, a tourist’s lack of fluency in German easily overcome by pointing at that which looks best since not a single bite was lacking in any way.
Not a place for those lacking will-power or on a diet, the smell of Butter and Yeast lingering several meters outside Bäckerei Hanss’ door, it was beginning with a coil labeled Franzbrötchen that Cinnamon immediately made its presence known, the follow-up of Marmorkuchen further impressing thanks to Cocoa and Vanilla suspended in a moist crumb straight from a Gugelhopf pan.
Built on tradition, but unafraid to gussy up rustic ideas, Bierenstich Herz takes Beesting Cake towards #instagram with its heart shape while retaining the Honey, Nuts and Cream, Sachsenhauser Apfelchen doing similar for Apple Streudel, though if one really wanted to nit-pick there is probably a bit too much flaky Pastry and not enough Fruit, thus making it more of a Danish.
Happy to also see a few items enjoyed elsewhere, the historic Bäckerei’s Mohnschnecke loaded with Poppy Seed Paste and sweetened by buttery Streusel, Rhabarberkuchen adds Strawberries to the mix with enough restraint to still let sour reign while the Crust itself cuts clean and remains crispy beneath a layer of Custard.
Classic Apple Tart, Forest Honey Ice Cream, Caramelized Nuts
Cash-only, and 30 minutes from Frankfurt in the town of Hattenheim im Rheingau, Die Adler Wirtschaft features the talents of Franz Keller, a former Michelin 2* Chef who turned his attention to Animal husbandry, butchery and processing in 1993 and has since earned acclaim for his Pork, Beef and Sausages.
Not on most tourist radars as a result of its location and lack of discussion in guidebooks, a visit on the last Thursday in May finding the heavily-wooded space full of locals, non-German speakers looking to dine at Die Adler Wirtschaft would be wise to download a dictionary the day they make reservations, though staff do try hard to translate everything from Appetizers to Dessert with varying degrees of success.
Upscale but certainly not “formal,” this particular night hosting at least three well-behaved children plus one who was not, it was while chuckling at knick-knacks lining the walls that Pork Liver Pate on toasted Brioche arrived, this unanticipated Canape followed by an Amuse of Smoked Salmon, Cream and Pickles even before an order was placed.
Selling well-priced Wine by the glass, a request for something “local and slightly sweet” yielding 2015 Riesling Cuvee Sektkellerei Ohlig Mit for just 8€, it was next three types of Bread including malty Crackers that offered temptation, the Focaccia in particular standing out with or without Olive Oil while Herbed Cream went nicely with Radishes topped lightly by Salt.
Offered a la carte or Prix-fixe, the ability to mix and match allowing one meal of two Appetizers and an Entrée while the other included a choice from each course including Dessert, it was not long before three items arrived simultaneously by request, the skewered Brat snappy with smoke and spice equally evident while Pan Seared Blood Sausage and silky Goose Liver were each expectedly rich but beautifully paired to something sweet.
Serving most Meat dishes with sides selected by the kitchen, the small Potatoes with Oil and Herbs fine while Potato Cakes that eat like Angel Food are stunning, one would be hard-pressed to name more tender Roast Beef than Keller’s thick cuts beneath Bordelaise, and considering the portion size his farm-raised and hand selected Pork is a bargain alongside plenty of Asparagus.
Not about to leave without Dessert, plus a visit to the ATM on the corner, it should come as no surprise that a place so focused on heritage would finish rustic, every bite of Wirtschaft’s Apple Tart astounding thanks to paper-thin Pastry that remains crisp beneath Honey-glazed Apples best taken bite-for-bite with a big scoop of housemade Ice Cream sweetened by Honey from a nearby Forest.
Positioned in an area exposed to lots of foot traffic, but largely local in its clientele, The Holy Cross Brewing Society looks a lot like what one might see in Brooklyn or Portland, right down to the kitschy signage and swag, not to mention good Beans sourced from a variety of Roasters.
Open since 2016, and a gathering spot for hipsters from that day forth, it is on approach that guests will notice plumes of smoke arising from the mouths of outdoor smokers, the inside far more pleasant from scent to staff including Baristas who speak fluent English and are happy to give recommendations based on both theirs and patron’s preferences.
Offering both hot and cold Coffee along with baked goods, the later prone to daily variance but always featuring the now-famous Portuguese Egg Custard, it was in exchange for 11€ that Cold Brew perfumed by Orange was poured to pair with four Pastries, the Pastel de Nata living up to the rumors with a crackling shell surrounding wobbly and warm Custard.
Less thrilled with a Double Chocolate Chip Cookie, the Cocoa Powder drying out Dough that fared better without in the setting of toasted Walnuts, it was those same Nuts that added texture to Banana Bread that was moist and only somewhat sweet, instead allowing Cardamom and Cloves to perfume the palate with a more natural Fruit flavor on the tongue.
Canapes – Leek Tart, Shitake Mushroom Roll, Char with Lemon, Tandori Chicken Tartare
House Bread – Salted Butter, Unsalted Butter, Salt, Pepper
Amuse – Woodruff, Kohlrabi, Fresh Cheese Sorbet
Oat Risotto – Chicken Ragout, Sauce Vin Jaune
Char poached in Grape Seed Oil – Spring Herb Emulsion, Mustard Seed, Shoots and Marinated Radishes / Char Tartare – Herb Cream, Shoots, Chive Oil
Goose Foie Gras – Marbled Goose Liver Terrine with Salted Caramel and Port, Tartlet of Burnt Goose Liver Cream and Hazelnuts, Goose Liver Praline with Sesame and Fried Goose Liver, Goose Liver Ice Cream with Cocoa Bean Crumble and Brioche
Milk Fed Calf – Fried Fillet, Glazed Morel Polenta and Young Leek
Milk Fed Calf – Braised Cheek, Morel a la Crème
Rhubarb with Yogurt – Butter Crumbles, Green Apple, Raspberry, Rhubarb Ice Cream, Verbena Foam, Rhubarb Compote
Friandises – Lemon Marshmallow, Nougat with Peach, Raspberry Pistachio Napoleon, Almond Apricot Cake, Black Forest Cone
Confiserie & Pralines – Sour Cherry Tart, Vanilla Nougat Tart, Chocolate Mousse Cake, Cassis Macaron, Vanilla Caramel Macaron, Nutmeg Praline, Marzipan Cherry Praline, Raspberry Rose Praline, Caramel Praline
The Cake Room at Bareiss
Coffee
Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte
Bareiss Torte
Finally earning a third Michelin Star in 2007, some fifteen years after Chef Claus-Peter Lumpp took over the kitchen following years at Louis XV, Bareiss Restaurant resides inside the hotel founded by Hermine Bareiss in 1951 and lives up to its accolades in terms of Food as well as service.
Located in the Black Forest town of Baiersbronn-Mitteltal, less than ten minutes drive from legendary Schwarzwaldstube im Hotel Traube Tonbach, guests approaching Hotel Bareiss will immediately notice a landscape flooded with flowers, the theme continuing inside where several other Restaurants including Dorfstuben serve delicious rustic fare at relative-bargain prices.
A small and exclusive dining room, no more than thirty chairs available during lunch and dinner service daily, it was after seating by Maître Thomas Brandt that three menus were presented, dinner and lunch both offering distinct tastings with more substantial individual plates sold a la carte.
Making decisions easier by allowing reasonable substitutions, though eventually the lunch menu with a la carte additions was selected, it was while listening to light music and gazing out windows that Canapes were presented, the spiraling vertical array highlighted by umami-rich Mushrooms and Sesame Seeds as well as Chicken Tartare brightened by Curry.
Unhurried but consistently paced, Wheat Rolls with two types of Butter the only table Bread despite several varieties offered on the outdoor patio, it was while perusing the Wine tome that the first of two Amuses was presented, a duo of plates each featuring Woodruff, Kohlrabi and Cheese with the larger room temperature and the bowl centered on creamy Sheep’s Milk Sorbet.
Transitioning quickly from fresh to rich, a “Risotto” of Oats embodying the idea of Poulet au Vin Jaune, it was with all tables now accounted for that the menu officially started, locally fished Trout described as Char first gently poached and served alongside Herb Emulsion and Radishes, then as finely cut Tartare resting in fragrant Chive Cream with subtle hints of Tarragon.
Offering Goose Liver as a Starter, the 98€ price-tag more than half the cost of Restaurant Bareiss’ entire lunch tasting, it was after twenty minutes that the table was flooded with decadence, the centerpiece a thick Terrine upright next to a Macaron and various dollops though a seared Steak in Rhubarb Jus with a creamy Praline and the elegant caramelized Cake with subtle nuttiness were no less impressive.
Not technically a ‘palate cleanser,’ but using sweetened Foie Gras Ice Cream on buttery Brioche as such, it was with serviceware re-set that an entrée arrived in two vessels, the Veal cooked rare truly magnificent in its subtlety and texture while a bowl of slowly braised Cheek afloat in earthy Foam threatened to steal the spotlight.
Exchanging the lunch napkin for a dainty Dessert version, though sweets from Pâtissier Stefan Leitner came in no shortage, Rhubarb predictably made an appearance in several forms alongside whole Fruits and textures while more classic shapes comprised Friandises, Confiserie and Pralines particularly memorable for three items focused on Sour Cherries as well as a dense and nutty Apricot Cake.
Settling a bill that was pricey but justified, customized menu in hand, it was after lunch that hotel staff offered a brief tour of the grounds, and passing by Bareiss’ “Cake Room” twice the only rational way to finish seemed to be a half-hour on the patio with Espresso and two slices, the eponymous Torte like Sacher replacing Apricots with Cherries and Chef Leitner’s Black Forest not only the best tasted to date in terms of density of Sponge and lightness of Cream, but a true bargain at just 4€.
Located in the Bornheim neighborhood of Frankfurt it is thanks to a queue that visitors will easily find Baguette Jeanette, and from 08h00 until 19h00 the Café with outdoor seating promises patrons a glimpse of Paris complete with Pastries, pigeons, panhandlers and high prices.
Wide-ranging in terms of options, early-arrivers offered Viennesoire and Cakes plus Quiche while afternoons feature Wine, Cheese and Sandwiches, it is thanks to a bottle-neck created by cases that lines are forced outdoors along Bergerstrasse, the fact that most know precisely what to order keeping things moving though time for decision-making once able to see the choices is limited.
More fluent in French than German, and authentically rude in response to questions uttered in English, it was after selecting five items that nearly 20€ cash was paid, the first beggar encountered before Food was even unwrapped with another following just after biting into a cloyingly sweet Almond Croissant sopping with Frangipane.
Not about to subject even the homeless to such messy remnants, though the birds proved less discerning, it was fortunate that Chocolate Brioche proved better in terms of both texture and taste while a Profiterole with Vanilla Cream unfortunately fell short as it had clearly been frozen overnight with evidence in both chilly Choux and Ice crystals amidst the Filling.
Certainly stepping away from Frankfurt’s plethora of traditional bakeries, not one item save for Croissants seen across at least a dozen other shops, breakfast finished with two Tartes, the one filled with Apple juicy and enlivened by Cinnamon while Baguette Jeanette’s Linzer ate soft like a Financier but was a bit too sweet atop the ribbon of Raspberry Jam.
Tucked amongst the shops and eateries of Schweizer Strasse, and open at 08h00 on weekdays or 09h00 on weekends, Sachsenhäuser Feinbäckerei offers a curated selection of well-crafted French and German fare including several Cakes and Pastries.
Opened in 2013 and earning a reputation of quality ever since, the owner present and happy to discuss his products in fluent English on Thursday morning, it was on his suggestion that items previously tasted elsewhere all fared well, the Almond Croissant unfilled but instead perfumed by nutty liquor that played well of Butter, Marzipan and Powdered Sugar.
Moving next to a Nougatbrezel, the most famous item at Cologne’s Merzenich here better in terms of texture as well as flavor, it was in follow-up that Sour Cherries impressed two-fold, the Coffee Cake with Walnut Streusel carefully balancing sweet, bitter and sour in each bite while Sachsenhäuser Feinbäckerei’s Black Forest Cake used thinner layers of Chocolate Sponge and Pastry Cream than many but could have benefitted from a bit more Fruit, or at least a thicker slice for 4€.
