Debuted in 2025 at Boca Park and open 24-hours Pinkbox Doughnuts remains Las Vegas’ premier spot for unique Doughnuts, just as it has since debuting over a decade ago.
More and more social-media savvy over the years this visit entailed far beyond the usual “OG Classics,” and although PinkBox’s Old Fashioned Cogwheels are still Las Vegas’ best additional traditional choices are mostly as expected making “Fancy Pancy” or “Show Off” choices a necessity.
Fully committed to clever nomenclature, Roberto Armanino’s famous Caramel Cheesecake now “The Caramelo,” “Lemon Berry Tease” succeeds thanks to the homemade Filling and plenty of complexity while “The Big Samoan” uses Coconut for texture atop a Ring with a Chocolate Shell bottom.
Replenishing supply as necessary, high volume assuring everything is fresh, Fritters both achieve high marks while “Dubai Chocolate’” eats like its namesake on a Cocoa Cake base.
Popular with their target audience since 1996, though nothing they do here is particularly spectacular, The Bagel Cafe fills a niche and does so consistently at a fair price.
Named after its founder Gwilherm Tanguy, who gave up a career in La Défense to pursue the perfect Crêpe, a seat at 15 Rue de l’Échiquier is no easy feat, yet with a little persistence and planning Saturday found the small space full but welcoming just past 21h00.
Focused on Crêpes Salée «à l’ancienne,» not to be confused with more commonly seen Galette, it is inside the white-tiled space with contrasting black tables that guests peruse a concise menu with prices that seem like an absolute bargain compared to the rest of Paris.
A native of Quistinic in Brittany, the use of certified Organic Buckwheat Flour from a family-owned mill assuring consistency, Tanguy’s Crêpes emerge from a small kitchen with minimal wait time and pair nicely to a collection of Ciders sold by the glass or bottle.
Dining below a fresco, easy to miss for those with eyes turned to the plate, each Crêpe is exquisitely thin and Butter-crisped with fillings ranging from classic “Complète” to smoked Andouille de Guémené with Mead-confited Onions and Tomme de Priziac Cheese.
Ingredient-centric from start to finish, Bouton d’Or Butter offering richness whether opting for sweet or savory, Dessert might include Honey or Citrus but the best bet sees Buckwheat swapped for Organic Wheat Flour with more levity topped by Caramelized Apples, crumbled Sablé and Whipped Cream.
Established by Gérard Sanchez in 1992, and now expanding by franchising, Glaces Moustache opened in the French capitol in 2022 and has since become of of Paris’ top recommendations for artisan Ice Cream.
Born in Saint-Malo, the original focus on Ingredients and Dairy from Brittany still a signature of some fifty flavors, it is inside the friendly shop that guests are invited to first try samples ranging from Tiramisu to Gold-Medal winning “Amour de glace” before making a decision.
Taking a hand-made approach to everything, Pistachio winning out over Lemon Tart by the slimmest of margins, two scoops found the subtle green Ice Cream nutty but not too sweet while Paris Brest tasted like Hazelnut Butter with bits of Choux adding texture.
Owned by Fiona and Fatina Leluc a visit to Bontemps La Pâtisserie sees the sisters turning their fascination with Sablés into one of Paris’s most highly regarded Bakeries, everything inside appearing antique besides Tarts, Cookies and Sandwiches that look like expensive baubles behind glass.
Part shop and part salon, velvet accents and floral patterns all around, guests entering find themselves greeted with smiles and samples, the Shortbread crisp and buttery with just a hint of salt that lingers a bit after everything else dissolves across the palate.
Visited solo, Blood Orange and Grapefruit dominating seasonal Tarts designed to share, it was after a moment of indecision that three items were selected, a Paris Brest showcasing thinner than average Choux around faultless Hazelnut Cream while simple Lemon Cake and Chocolate Fondant each offer far more than meets the eye as a result of quality Ingredients and time-honored techniques.
Steamed Comte Cheese Souffle, Watercress and Smoked Eel Sauce
Guinea Hen poached in Lobster Butter, Salty Scrambled Eggs
Pommes Puree
Coffee Expression Biscuit, Pecan Nut, Maple Syrup
Lemon Pie, Pistachio Chocolate
Hoping to rejuvenate its dining scene Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo turned to Chef Yannick Alléno, where an off-shoot of his Parisian 1* Pavyllon serves guests at an enormous rounded bar surrounding the open kitchen.
Located far off the lobby down several nondescript halls, all of it below the standards of a 5-star Hotel, it is upon entry that guests are greeted by amicable staff and led through a proper dining room in hues of blue.
Offering a Tasting Menu and a la carte options, prices comparable to other upscale eateries in Monaco, Friday evening found only a handful of seats occupied with guests outnumbered by both kitchen staff and servers.
The second most Michelin-starred chef in the world, fifteen including three in Monaco, dinner begins with a brief introduction of Alléno’s extraction method, dueling nibbles fairly basic while a non-alcoholic beverage proved complex and invigorating after a long day.
Opting for a la carte, an airy Cheese Souffle arriving first with Chlorophyll and smoky Asian-influenced Sauce, it was after sopping up every drop with simple Sourdough that a primary plate of Guinea Hen, Lobster and Eggs arrived in a lighter style of Sauce Nantua.
Paced appropriate to each group, three courses easily accommodated in an hour, Dessert referenced Tiramisu with a hint of Pralnes before Mignardises featuring local Ingredients to end a meal that was “good,” but not particularly distinctive of the Chef or Monaco.
While “storyteller cuisine” is not a style that is universally loved there are few Chefs thinking as deeply about nature as Mauro Colagreco, the Italo-Argentinian Chef and owner of Restaurant Mirazur overlooking the French Riviera.
Named “best restaurant in the world” in 2019 and holding 3 Michelin stars for the past decade, the privileged location merely an added bonus for diners with a table near open windows, Mirazur’s concept focuses on the influence of the Moon and the planets on Plants and how they taste each day.
Using an agricultural calendar based on biodynamics, each day seeing the kitchen focus on one of either roots, leaves, flowers or fruits, it is after a cordial welcome that diners first visit the kitchen before taking stairs to a room decorated in wood and natural stones.
The father of “circular gastronomy,” and first Chef to be appointed a UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador, it is alongside Colagreco that some fifty people are responsible for everything from gardening to dish washing, and across the course of nearly three hours no less than half seemingly make an appearance either downstairs or tableside.
Offered Champagne to start, a fair priced Wine list offered along with several heavy hitters, “Leaves” opening nibbles include a quintet of Tarts, Raviolis and Crackers all sourced from the Chef’s Garden with a focus on textures and freshness.
Open since 2006, the same local Olive Oil and mother’s Bread offered to diners since then, the first of nine proper “courses” entails fresh Shrimp in White Bean Puree between Leaves of Navelwort while the follow-up goes airy with a cloud of Coriander hiding Orange-soaked Uni.
A space well-suited to White Wine, the blend from Chateau de Pibarnon matching seasonal Citrus, hollowed spears of Puntarelle filled with Sardine thrive in Bagna Cauda before a carefully-topped Oyster and all the parts of Garlic served in such a way that none of it is overwhelming.
Offered a second Loaf with hand-formed Butter and a story, its purpose seemingly to collect the Sauces henceforth, line-caught John Dory arrives hidden by gently cooked Nasturtium with a beard of Razor Clams before a “Millefeuille” of Lamb and various styles of crispy Cabbage.
Not wavering from the theme for Cheese or Dessert, local Goat Cheese akin to Panna Cotta beneath Sorrel Gel, cooked Fennel drops the acrid notes in favor of sweet Licorice atop Vanilla before Ice Cream mixed tableside with a variety of fresh and preserved Citrus.
Gracious throughout, every dining room attendant smiling and pleasant, mentions of a birthday additionally saw the team produce a Chartreuse Cake complete with candle alongside a bowl of Rosemary Financiers and fresh Cream large enough to serve a six-top.
Tucked away on a quiet alley in Menton one would never assume the owner of Mitron Bakery has amassed 8 Michelin Stars, but under the banner of Mauro Colagreco the take-away only space at 8 Rue Pieta is serving the sort of baked good one wishes they could find in Monaco.
Fully embracing ownership’s commitment to sustainable practices, all Flour certified-organic with natural harvesting and milled daily in Menton, it is inside the small space that guests will find Breads, Viennoiserie and Cakes all at fair prices.
Staffed by a lone woman on Friday, friendly in explaining her favorites, first bites from a Medialuna found sweet glaze overlying open laminaton while Fougasse Menton ate more like the savory Flatbread with notes of Orange and Anise than the version a few miles west.
Sold out of award-winning Panettone on this day, though anyone disappointed will find solace in a faultless Lemon Tart, both Costata and Flan change daily based on local markets and if the two tasted are representative of the “usual” then one of each is recommended with the latter’s top-to-bottom contrasts particularly noteworthy.
Awarded “World’s Best Pastry Chef” in 2018 Cedric Grolet continues to train some of the best bakers in the world to this day, his commitment to excellence generating long lines at the Paris Opera location while guests visiting Monaco can experience Viennoiserie and Entremets or a full Breakfast on the bottom floor of Hôtel de Paris.
Half boutique and half tea room, early arrivals without wait while those later are recommended to reserve, it is inside a minimalist space with clean lines that diners will find everything from €12 Pan Suisse to €25 Cookies featuring the best imported Ingredients one can buy.
Enjoyed best along Avenue des Beaux-Arts, the Pan Suisse truly superb with shattering layers of Butter surrounding Dark Chocolate Chips, Cookie Chocolat Coco is approximately twice the size of a “traditional” Cookie with a Sable style base decorated in what can best be described as melting puddles of Cocoa and Cookie Butter with curls of Coconut, though its “value” is dubious.
Alain Ducasse, now 69, was only thirty-three years old when Le Louis XV became the first Hotel restaurant to be awarded three Michelin stars, and since that time the Chef and this room just off the entry of l’Hôtel de Paris has been synonymous with luxury.
Currently toqued by Emmanuel Pilon, a native of Lyon who has been with Ducasse since 2009 and leading Le Louis XV since 2022, food takes on the Mediterranean with an embrace of seasonality while service led by Claire Sonnet is faultless whether one is wearing Richard Mille and Dior or blue haired in military boots.
Booked for dinner as opposed to lunch, similar Tasting Menus and a la carte options save for the discounted daytime offering, “Agape” features five proper courses plus Cheese, Amuses and Mignardises for €420 while “Jardin” caters to Vegetarians for €290.
A mix of Ducasse classics and Pilon’s creativity, Sancerre proving well-suited to seasonal Citrus, razor-thin Crackers begin the evening followed by five nibbles from which a shimmering Sardine Tartlette and fried Beets with Octopus were highlights.
A well-paced meal in such a grand room, with no detail overlooked, Bread and good Butter is plentiful whether one prefers Baguette, Sourdough or Fougasse in two flavors prior to an Amuse of honeyed Oysters or sweet raw Shrimp beneath grilled Kiwi foam.
Fully committed to the Riviera’s unique terroir, charred Mullet with Lime, Lemon and Hazelnuts in a velvety Potage the first proper plate, Pilon’s signature “Artichoke, Sea Anemone, Caviar” earns its accolades by way of sharply contrasting textures including a core of creamy Burrata.
Leaning into early Spring next with White Asparagus and line-caught John Dory beneath a blanket of white, its subtle flavors setting up nicely for lightly cooked Lamb in its own Jus with natural salinity added by Samphire and Offal Ravioli spooned on later as an added surprise.
Turning things over from here to Pastry Chef Sandro Micheli, bracing Sorbet followed by a plated Cheese Course with Quince and Salad, Bread Ice Cream soon gives way to a choice of Desserts including Ducasse’s famous Baba or Rhubarb Soufflé infused with Sauternes and modernity.
Not done yet, a Coffee and Tea trolley following Pandoro sliced tableside, seasonal Citrus again finds itself featured first in four different Jellies and then at the center of handmade Chocolates before guests are presented with a complimentary loaf of Pandoro and menu to take home.
Located at the junction of Monaco-Ville and La Condamine a visit to L’Épi d’Or sees guests greeted by warm hospitality and an array of Pastries good enough for the Prince, as proudly displayed on window signage facing the entrance.
Independently owned for over sixty years, a third generation of the Pani family now responsible for loaves, Viennoiserie and Choux, midday arrival found a Pain au Chocolate par to those in Paris while soggy Canele fell far short of those in Bordeaux.
Taking a chance on Paris Brest, correct shape and texture needlessly muddling the flavor of Hazelnuts with a Cream layer, anyone visiting should be sure to lay down €6 for a large Monegasque Fougasse loaded with floral notes, Almonds, Pralines and Anise.
Opened in 2017 by Victoria Effantin and Cécile Khayat Boulangerie Mamiche has now expanded to three locations, their space in the 10th frequently sporting a line of locals and tourists in search of rustic Breads and Viennoiserie including the Cinnamon Roll several consider to be Paris’ best.
Not constrained by local customs, a Babka or Maritozzo happily sharing space with airy Chouquettes piped with Vanilla Cream, staff is young and vibrant yet effective at moving guests along with every item carefully packed.
Known for on-site production using quality Ingredients, a Valrhona-chocolate imbued Roll with good chew and surprising levity, fans of Pain Aux Raisins will find Mamiche’s “Escargot” far superior to Du Pain & Idées at less cost while the Cinnamon Roll is indeed a masterpiece thanks to limited Sugar which lets good Butter carry bold aromatics to greater heights.
Housed in a 19th century Bakery just off Canal Saint-Martin Du Pain et des Idées has been serving the city of lights since 2002, and thanks to social media Christophe Vasseur’s Escargot Chocolat-Pistache has become something of an icon in the age of Instagram.
Occupying a large corner, original painted ceilings and a wood-burning oven suggesting an era long before Tweets and Tik-Toks, it is once inside that guests will find an abundance of Breads and Viennoiserie offered by the mostly unengaging staff.
Visited on a Thursday with no lines, prices nearly double those of nearby Mamiche, a four-part order was procured quickly for €24, the Almond Croissant a flat disaster both literally and figuratively while thw famed swirl can be found better at Maison Julien.
Improving the lamination with a Pan Suisse, basic but satisfying, Du Pain et des Idées best bites come from an elongated baton dubbed Sacristain that crunches before giving way to layers of Butter, Sugar and delicate Pastry Cream.
Butter Braised Ile de France Cabbage, Seaweed, Ossetra Caviar
Sweetbreads, Perigueux Sauce, Artichoke Heart, Black Truffle
Blue Breton Lobster, Potatoes, Basil
Milk Ice Cream, Plums flambeed in Eau de Vie
70% Sao Tome Chocolate, Cascara, Cocoa Nibs
Pear, Almond Cream, Eau-de-vie Sorbet
Galette Bretonne, Quince, Mandarin, Pear
Open for not even a year Geoélia resides not far from the Eiffel Tower in the 16th arrondissement, and inside a cozy room Chef Camille Saint-M’leux is quickly gaining notice for food that trends rich but restrained, traditional but viewed through a new lens.
Awarded 1* from Michelin after a year at Montreuil, a recognition recently repeated upon Geoélia just ten months in, Saint-M’leux’s training includes the likes of Alain Solivérès at Le Taillevent and Christian Le Squer of Le Cinq.
A native of Brittany, Geoélia a nod to his family’s boat, Seafood takes a primary focus with diners offered the choice of two Tasting Menus or an extensive a la carte menu focused on some of the Chef’s signatures.
A heavy room with white walls velvet banquettes, curtains covering tall windows while two chandeliers offer light, it was with a fair priced glass biodynamic White Wine that amuses entailed citrusy Poached Oysters and Lettuce leaves with Anchovis plus toasted Bread before a bowl of Cockles in modestly-spiced Broth.
Opting for a la carte, Sea Snails with Buckwheat Pancakes one last surprise before receiving piping hot Bread with Butter infused by Grey Shrimps, a starter of buttered Cabbage found itself offering myriad textures amidst Seaweed and Beurre Blanc with a big spoon of Caviar on top.
Greedy for one of Geoélia’s primary plates as the other starter, a sizeable sweetbread atop a half artichoke with Sauce Périgueux every bit as indulgent as it sounds, the night’s primary plate was Saint-M’leux’s Breton Blue Lobster sealed in glass and cooked with Potatoes, Basil and buttery fortified Sauce.
Next cleansing the palate with Plums flambeed in Eau de Vie over Ice Cream, as good as the Kirsch Ice Cream at Plénitude, Desserts saw both Pear Puff Pastry and a Dark Chocolate Tart deliver a leson in textures before finishing with Petit Fours including Galette Bretonne.
2018 Domaine Comtesse de Cherisey La Genelotte Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru
Garden, Bottarga
Lobster Tart
Oyster, Kiwi
Sea Bass, Miso
White Asparagus, Smoked Roe
Turbot, Fish Soup
Moussestage
Gamba Roja, Uni
Pigeon, Broccoli
Cheese, Salad
Peas, Cream
Chocolate Tart, Caviar
Olive, Madeline
Pink Praline, Shortbread
Currently ranked #8 on the San Pellegrino List, no small feat for a self-taught Chef whose past-lives included medicine, author, food critic and entrepreneur, Bruno Verjus remains one of Paris’ top names nearly thirteen years after opening his Restaurant “Table.”
Awarded his second Michelin star in 2022, an accolade retained until now even as prices for the daily Tasting Menu have doubled from pre-pandemic, it is inside the simple green-awning space that guests will find a curved metal bar surrounding the kitchen where each plate is made from scratch at lunch and dinner.
Booking just four diners for Wednesday lunch service, frankly unheard of for top-tables in Paris, a choice of seats was offered and after inquiring about allergies or intolerances the heavy-hitter Wine list was perused to the tune of three €40 glasses of 2018 Domaine Comtesse de Cherisey La Genelotte Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru.
Eschewing all the luxuries of Alain Ducasse or Guy Savoy, though linens and high-quality stemware show Verjus understands what matters, it is while watching plates come together that guests are spoken to with warmth by staff who truly seem to value feedback.
Starting with “Colours of the Day,” varied Herbs and Vegetables lightly dressed amidst Bottarga, course two entails three bites from which an Oyster crowned by Kiwi proved to be one of the meal’s highlights.
A zealot for seasonal products, sliced White Asparagus allowed to shine in a buttery Sauce with smoke Roe, Verjus’ time in Asia shows in lightly cooked Turbot bathing in a pool of Fish Soup brightened by Seaweed and hints of Soy.
Priced on par with spots like Louis XV and Plénitude, a fact one cannot ignore when faced with a dish like “Moussestage” that is essentially Herb Soup, Gamba Roja with Uni beg question what the Green Star means since neither are local, though the dish and its follow-up Pigeon are both very good.
Eschewing mis en place, only a curated Cheese Course showing any semblance of assemblage while everything else is prepared to order, pre-Dessert of Peas and Cream proves a nice setup to the unwavering finale of a Caper-infused Dark Chocolate Tart with Caviar and warm Madelines dipped in Kardamili Olive Oil.
Offering the sort of service and quality one might expect of the Ritz a stop at 45 Rue de Sèvres should be compulsory for anyone taking a trip to La Grande Épicerie de Paris, the second Ritz Paris Le Comptoir offering all the best parts of the original without any of the pomp and circumstance of the hotel.
Not far from the Metro or Bon Marché, with luxury shopping including the likes of Hermes and Berluti nearby, it is from charming servers that guests are offered Mille Feuille and Entremets plus six “Melting Heart” Madelines that would have likely made Proust weep tears of joy.
Taken to go, a Rice Pudding Tart crowned with a wedge of Milk Chocolate shaken up but absolutely stunning a few hours later, one would be hard-pressed to decide whether Raspberry or Caramel was the better Madeline, though either compares favorably to Christophe Louie as the best in town.
Favored by many as one of Paris’s top Patisseries a visit to Blé Sucré finds former Michelin 3* Pastry Chef Fabrice Le Bourdat operating in more humble environs, a space with Candies and Packaged Goods quite the departure from Le Bristol.
Visited early on a Wednesday, one of two small tables outside available to sit away from rain, choices trend traditional from Madelines to Viennoiserie including a fairly good Pain au Raisin and Almond Croissant free of Frangipane.
Celebrated for his Kouign Amann, less tightly formed than others but certainly not lacking for Butter or Sugar, Canele lack the expected crisp exterior while Blé Sucré’s “Brest” lacks the signature shape and would better be called a Hazelnut Religeuse instead.
MARKET’S GARDENER PARTITION FOR COULIS MARBRE “AMPLITUDE”
ANCHOVY BREAD
ANCHOVY, LEEK, MARIGOLD FOR VELOUR’S “EDEN”
BLUE FISH, LEEK, MARIGOLD FOR VELOUR’S “EDEN”
BLUE LOBSTER, ARTICHOKE, ROSEMARY FOR SABAYON “BUISSON DIVIN”
TURBOT, FENNEL, CAVIAR FOR BOUILLION “SONGE ANISĖ”
RED MULLET, TORTELLINI, SEA URCHIN FOR FUMET DE ROCHE “OCRE TANNIQUE”
APPLE SORBET, CALVADOS
POULTRY, VIROFLAY, TRUFFLE FOR CREME MABREE “TERRA BOTANICA”
LEMON
ROSE D’AGRUMES, FRESH AND CANDIED GRAPEFRUIT, ALEP PETALS, ALOE VERA FOR SAUCE PECTINEE ET CONDIMENTEE “PERLE D’ENDOCARPE”
KIWI, PRALINE TARTE
VANILLA KIRSCH ICE CREAM
TAKE HOME
Exuding all the opulence one might expect from the LVMH owned Cheval Blanc it occupies dinner at Plenitude is a lesson in luxury, the sort of place where eye-popping prices and tables booked eight months in advance seem justified by everything from a room overlooking Pont Neuf to service that is effortlessly enjoyable yet able to educate, appease and adjust on the fly.
Opened in 2021 and awarded three Michelin stars within seven months, an almost unheard of accomplishment maintained through the recently released 2026 guide, guests are led on arrival to posh seats in a beige room, but not before a walk through the tremendous Wine cellar carved from a single block of wood.
Toqued by Chef Arnaud Donckele and Pastry Chef Maxime Frédéric, the former building each plate around Sauces that are thrust into the spotlight, service is coordinated by restaurant director Alexandre Larvoir whose mostly youthful staff is professional yet amicable and frequently jovial.
An orchestrated affair, the choice of Tasting Menu or A la Carte seeing most opt for the former, Wine occupies every pricepoint with a €22 glass of Sancere chosen by Emmanuel Cadieu more than holding its own against Canapes including Donckele’s Truffle Tart, Shrimp Cracker and delicate warm Oyster.
Offered as five “courses,” though in reality eighteen different dishes are served in addition to several types of Bread with Butter, wrapped Spring Vegetables next give way to a skewered Whelk with Shiso before Plénitude’s own interpretation of Le Gargouillou with brightness added by Soy and Mango.
Asked to taste all Sauces before and during their associated plates, “Eden’s” Fennel and Tarragon dancing first with a skin-on Sardine then Blue Fish, this thick Sauce is but a taste of things to come as Donckele’s Sabayon enriched by Lobster Coral and Artichoke forms something of a cloud around faultless Blue Lobster from Brittany.
Not forgetting Frédéric’s Bread, one stuffed with Squash and another rich with Anchovies happy to sop up any Sauce not sipped or eaten with a spoon, Turbot cooked low and slow sees collagen perfectly melted into Bouillion bright with Anise prior to Mullet in a rich Fumet of Urchin, Marrow, Liver and Cognac.
Offered a visit to the kitchen, greetings from Chef Arnaud followed by Apple Sorbet eaten in an alcove while watching the kitchen team at work, it is upon return to the table that a main course of Chicken is elevated above simple poultry by Truffles and Basil first on the Breast and then the Wing.
Reluctantly skipping the Cheese cave for lack of capacity, a citrus sipper offered instead, Frédéric’s Dessert offers Grapefruit on Meringue in a Rose Petal-infused Gelatin prior to the tableside presentation of Petit Fours highlighted by Vanilla Kirsch Ice Cream.
Dialed in on every detail, even a disruptive diner near the window handled with impeccable discretion and grace, it is after settling the bill that guests are walked to the door with a bag of Bread, housemade Dressing and flowers for the ladies as an added touch.
Mont-Blanc, Maple Syrup Tarte, Caramel Apple Almond Cake, Honey Madeline
Owned and operated by Chef Bertrand Grébaut Tapisserie is described as a “living” Pastry Shop, its location just a few hundred meters from Septime offering no seating but a collection of Cakes and Pastries produced on-site daily.
Following the brand’s micro-seasonal ethos, all flours stone-ground from organic farms while Produce, Dairy and Eggs come from ethical sources, it is inside the small space that guests will find Coffee, Flan and Viennoiseries alongside rustic items like a weighty Cake of Caramel Apples plus oversized Madelines sticky with Honey.
Baked in small batches, shelves at 14h30 featuring several Tarts, fans of Mont-Blanc will find the Chestnut Cream rich atop a delicate Sponge while Tapisserie’s Maple Syrup Tarte bests any tasted from Vancouver to Montreal beneath a gob of freshly Whipped Cream.
Currently rated 40th on the W50b list Septime remains a difficult reservation for good reason, Chef Bertrand Grébaut’s time at Arpège translated to a five course tasting plus extras that changes daily for just €85 at lunch.
Fully booked at precisely 10h00 three-weeks in advance, just as it has been for more than a decade, arrival at 80 Rue de Charonne finds the green-fronted bistro largely indistinguishable from those surrounding while an interior of concrete and wood is neither exciting nor particularly comfortable.
At one point part of the “Bistronomy” movement, but now perhaps best considered a Micro-seasonal experience right down to its beverages, guests are invited to begin with Aperitifs well-suited to deeply flavored Onion Broth and signature Gougeres served piping hot with bold spicing.
Served at a leisurely pace by educated servers, though not the sort prone to over-explaining, proper courses begin with puffy Bread alongside housemade Labneh and Milk-fed Lamb Tartare before progressing to a green Salad with Egg Yolk dressed in White Wine, Olive Oil, and Garlic.
Next taking advantage of local winter Truffles, smartly sandwiched between caramelized Endive with Pears and hints of Wine, Bread is offered to sop up all the Sauce and replenished to do the same with Monkfish in complex Bouillabaisse.
Not a place where one is prone to go hungry, all portions substantial including a Potato Salad offered with the Fish, Dessert on this day saw classic Crème caramel spun earthy with Mushrooms and another generous shaving of Tuber melanosporum that played well the nearly-burnt Sugar.
