Not far from Praça das Flores Gelateria Nannarella has been serving guests since 2013, their combination of creativity and fair prices building a loyal fanbase including many who consider it the best Gelateria in Lisbon.
Spatula-served in cups or Cones, the small space with no seating purporting a lack of artificial colors or flavors, it is from quick yet friendly staff that products are procured, first bites suggesting good technique and less Sugar than many.
More Ice Cream than Gelato, their “lab” visible adjacent the kitchen, credit is due for creativity in flavors like Pastel de Nata and Port Zabaglione, the former complete with bits of Crust, though Fig had some serious ice crystals as if it had thawed and refrozen.
Just one room and 22 seats, LOCO Restaurante sees 2012 “Top Chef” Alexandre Silva take a seasonal look at Portugal’s diversity across 17 “moments.”
Translated as “crazy,” an odd choice given Silva’s reliance on microseasonal Ingredients indigenous to his home, it is upon entry that eyes are drawn to a modern open kitchen juxtaposing light woods and greenery.
Featuring as many cooks and front of house as guests, the servers professional but scripted in a manner that frequently undermines the intelligence of experienced diners, it was on the recommendation of LOCO’s Sommelier that a glass of White was chosen to pair with starters, a Chickpea “Taco” with aged Lamb easily the most memorable while Lettuce with Honey followed by a smoky Cracker offered an excellent one-two punch.
Still a hot ticket at six years, elements of modernism atop a solid foundation evidenced by a Bread course that sees Sourdough smeared in housemade Sausage or dipped in traditional Broth, dishes such as an earthy Clam in Foam were unfortunately less successful, though Monkfish and Grilled Pork with Blood Sausage each found success in their simplicity.
Unafraid of Offal, tender Cow’s Tongue the penultimate savory before umami-driven Eggplant, Dessert comes from Chef Carolina Pereira, her time at Feitoria and El Celler de Can Roca yielding a cloud of Peach atop fragrant Tea Ice Cream and a Goat Cheese Parfait sweetened by Blueberries.
Serving Coffee via Siphon, about half apparently discarded by staff who seemed genuinely surprised anyone had seen the brewing mechanism prior, it would be difficult to name a more invigorating use of Melon than the thin layers that arrived atop Lemon Curd and Pine Nuts prior to Mignardises presented via sewing kit.
Located atop the Lisbon’s Amália Rodrigues Gardens, with a beautiful city view, Restaurante Eleven currently sees German born Chef Joachim Koerper celebrating fifty years of professional cooking with a legacy menu featuring his personal favorites across decades in Germany, Spain and Portugal.
Boasting 1* from Michelin and a storied art collection, denizens of Lisbon’s business district frequently seen partaking in lengthy lunches amidst posh environs, it was shortly after noon that that the Restaurant was ready to serve, the €54 prix-fixe to generous to pass up, though the lengthier seasonal menu is also available.
Light and airy across two stories, wood with large windows looking toward the river, it was not long after seating that Bread was presented, a trio of styles each excellent on their own but better with top-tier Butter, Olive Oil and a Spread of smoked Sardines.
Served as three courses sandwiched between Amuse and Mignardises, the former placing fresh Shrimp in fragrant Gazpacho, Koerper’s “Gold Bar” sees silky Liver amidst Plums both natural and manipulated, the Gel intensely sweet while what appears to be a whole Fruit has Confit concealed inside.
Artistic in terms of plating, Red Mullet with Peas and Saffron delicate in terms of taste as well as texture, “My Version of the Pastel de Nata” arrives vertical with all the proper elements plus delicate Coffee Mousse before ending with three treats including a memorable Orange Pate de Fruit.
Now with nine locations in Lisbon it can safely be said that Pau de Canela is a chain, and although often nearby the brand established in 2000 seems to spread itself so thinly that little offered features the same quality as what can be found elsewhere.
Another Pastelaria with “Fabrico Próprio” displayed prominently, but also offering everything from Scrambled Eggs to Hamburgers, it is across several glass cases that Baked Goods are contained, the Pastel de Nata overcooked inside and out with virtually the same consistency as Queijadinha which didn’t taste much like Coconut.
Also offering numerous Cake slices, though staff’s limited English made determining what was what a challenge, Chocolate Salami was unfortunately dry and chalky in comparison to most while the Palmier Cober was unique in its use of Granulated Sugar atop the Custard which amplified texture as well as sweetness.
Winner of Portugal’s “National Tasting of Pastel de Nata” in in 2012, 2013 and 2015 Pastelaria Aloma has certainly made the most of its accolades, a half-dozen shops now spanning from the original to city center with additional stops at the airport and commercial centers.
Named after the film “Aloma of the South Seas,” and utilizing the recipes of Jerónimos’ Monastery in Belém to fabricate several Pastries built upon Egg Custard, it is from tables that guests are invited to watch Nata in the making, the varying degrees of charring suggesting an imprecise process that nonetheless yields a jiggly center and dough that shatters briskly.
Born in 1943, “Fabrico Próprio” signage on display, additional tastes included a Mil Folhas that unfortunately came up fairly flaccid while the Palmier stacked around Custard labeled as “Palmier Recheado” is a crackling work of art.
Inspired by the “poetry of the city,” Chiado Caffe is a nondescript shop on Rua do Loreto, its proximity to city-center yielding plentiful foot traffic including mostly locals who stop in early for Coffee and Pastry.
Proudly proclaiming on-site production of approximately two-dozen items, mostly the same as those seen elsewhere, abrupt service appears to be the standard regardless of spoken language while indoor seating is narrow but benefited by free Wi-Fi.
Again starting and ending with Pastel de Nata, cool to touch despite arriving five minutes after opening, Chiado Caffe’s version is neither bad nor memorable, though the bready “Almond Croissant” is an abomination stuffed with store-bought Frangipane while the Almond Tart fares better thanks to candied and slivered Nuts.
Arguably Portugal’s most noteworthy Chef, Michelin two-starred Belcanto the crown jewel of Lisbon’s fine dining scene, Bairro do Avillez is a 4-in-1 concept focused on more traditional fare from José Avillez.
Translated as Avillez’ neighborhood, a sloping street in Chiado home to the former convent now containing Páteo, Tavern, Bar and Pizzeria, it was after checking in outside that a seat beneath high ceilings was occupied in a room near full capacity.
Loaded with local art, ceramics and murals surrounding bars and open kitchens, it was with Water poured and Bread served that a lengthy menu was perused, everything from fresh Shellfish to Ferran Adrià’s Olives surrounding Chef Avillez’s interpretation of Portuguese tradition.
Offering some of Portugal’s premier Charcuterie, a Foie Gras Terrine with Figs and Brioche simple yet decadent, Empanadas here come as small Pies featuring Partridge, Bacon and Onions inside a delicate golden Crust.
Careful not to overindulge on Cornbread, a more difficult task than it seems, Stuffed Spider Crab comes in the style of José’s Café Lisboa in a creamy portion large enough to share while Bras-style Cod sees classic technique and modernism merge to create something hearty and comforting.
Surely a space best suited for groups, a quote from the Chef stating “Nothing makes us happier than being in good company, sharing the dishes we enjoy the most,” Desserts are thankfully less sizable, though deciding between Bairro’s Chocolate Cake and a Pastel de Nata Mille-Feuille is a difficult enough task that ordering one of each is advisable.
Born from MÚ’s artisanal laboratory, UAO is a new project from third-generation Italian confectioner Marco Bauli, and if one isn’t specifically informed the fact that this Gelati is vegan would be impossible to guess.
Seeking “the essence of the true natural flavor of our ingredients, without added sugar,” it is from a seasonal list that guests are asked to choose, the Salted Caramel like velvet on the tongue while Pistachio di Bronte sports substantial toasty notes and just a hint of sweetness.
Established in 1957 Pastelaria Alcôa takes a more in-depth approach to baking than many of its competitors in Lisbon, a focus on the Cistercian monks of Sta. Maria de Alcobaça and Cós yielding several items not seen elsewhere.
Well-regarded across multiple locations, self-proclaimed “Masters in Conventual Sweets” suggesting premium prices at the small storefront on Rua Garrett, customer service is far less cordial than at Santo António or Mexicana while the Pastel de Nata is not nearly so flaky or delicate.
Producing mostly products built around Egg Yolks, the Pampilho offering a soggy sponge swirled with Custard, better bites included a Sugar-shellacked Palmier and Almond-based Tart, though the only real standout was a “Torrao Real” that eats like Castanha Ovo beneath shards of crystalized Caramel.
Sardine, Parsley and Lardo Toast / Smoked Quail Egg, Acorn Ham
Cockles, Chard, Coriander, Fried Bread
Butternut Squash, Whey, Brown Butter
Squid from Azores, Potatoes, Ham Butter
Hispi Cabbage, Trotters, Whelks
Mushroom Ice Cream, Caramel, Barley
Brioche, White Port, Hazelnut
Described as celebrating “the best Portugal has to offer, from sea to land,” Prado has quickly emerged as one of Lisbon’s most talked about Restaurants, and although it lacks Michelin Stars or the refinement of Belcanto both the Food and experience are exceptional.
Owned and operated by Chef Antonio Galapito, a man whose connections to local farmers and fishermen allows unfettered “farm to table” ideals to flourish, it is immediately on entry that guests will note high ceilings and lush greenery decorating the former 19th-century factory.
Pleasant in terms of service, a lack of pretense emanating from two young women and a small kitchen, menus feature little more than a list of Ingredients based on the notion that “if it’s not in season, it’s not on the table.”
Organized top-to-bottom by size, two bites of Sardine atop Lardo Toast with Parsley and a skewered Quail Egg beneath shaved Ham each explosive yet balanced, it was in follow-up that softened Chard shined in Cockles with their Coriander-scented Broth and Fried Bread for texture.
Continuing in a seemingly straightforward manner, though nothing about roasted Butternut Squash layered around a Puree of the same with creamy Sauce, Seeds and Flowers tastes “simple,” Squid from Azores next found itself ribboned like Fettuccine amidst diced Spuds and Butter with a decidedly porky linger.
Difficult decisions in abundance, but a place where solos or large groups will be equally comfortable, savories culminated with Cabbage, Trotters and Whelks before a big scoop of Mushroom Ice Cream doused in Caramel with toothsome Barley adding a nutty, roasted note.
Just €64 for eight items, each thought provoking yet delicious, lunch concluded with Brioche soaked in Port and creamy/crunchy Hazelnuts plus a silky veil of Zabaglione that, as a whole, invigorated every part of the palate.
Begun in Bica, but now expanded to tourist zones including Time Out Market, Rua Augusta and even the airport, Manteigaria has moved from a local favorite to booming enterprise thanks to their commitment to one thing and one thing only, the Pastel de Nata.
Tagged as “Fábrica de Pastéis de Nata” on signage, a layout inviting guests to watch production undoubtedly part of Manteigaria’s appeal, it is beginning at 08h00 that doors open with “about 3,000” Pastéis sold per day according to the cashier at their Rua Augusta location.
Offering outside seating until curfew, with fresh Egg Custard Tarts baked throughout the day, Sunday around 11h00 found specimens hot and fresh with briskly cracking shell yielding a center with pronounced sweetness mellowed by charring, though for this man’s Euro a little more heat and less time would have been preferred.
Casa Portuguesa Do Pastel De Bacalhau – Rua Augusta
Pastel De Bacalhau
With multiple locations in Lisbon Casa Portuguesa Do Pastel De Bacalhau is undoubtedly built for tourists, the original storefront on Rua Augusta surrounded by shopping and proudly promoting their Cheese-filled Fritters plus a glass of Port as the “Portugal Experience.”
Truly a “do one thing and do it well” concept, the choice of with or without Cheese a guest’s only challenge, it was at an outside table that one handmade Pastel de Bacalhau com Queijo da Serra was eaten, its Sheep’s Cheese oozing out slowly amidst shredded Fish that seems less salty than elsewhere.
Located in Lisbon’s Castelo district at Rua Milagre Santo António 10, Pastelaria Santo António is the most recent winner of Portugal’s “National Tasting of Pastel de Nata,” and for those willing to ascend the hills and wait in line at opening the reward is warm, flaky, delicate and perceivably less sweet than the competition.
Currently opening at 8:00am daily, with a small group gathering twenty minutes prior as the lone Baker works in an open kitchen, it is immediately on entry that the smell of baking Bread is evident – even though some items may not be fully ready until later.
Made larger by upstairs seating, though locals seem to take their items to-go, it was after ordering that a young clerk said “here’s one more, you’re going to want it” as he placed another Tart on the tray already containing more than enough Carbs for one.
Smart to begin and end with Santo António’s signature, the best Tart tasted across fifteen eateries in five days, those seeking something savory should certainly consider the Chicken Pie inside a golden Crust while the Port Wine Croissant is also pretty special, even though it lacks much honeycombing in the middle.
With two Lisbon locations, the original in Restauradores Square and an offshoot on Rua Augusta, Fábrica da Nata bills itself as the “Custard factory,” not bad branding in a city where Custard Tarts are sold on almost every street-corner and in each Bakery.
Featuring on-site production, bakers visible through glass as they knead Dough and mix filling, it is from a fairly simple menu that choices are made, an occasional guest opting for a Sandwich while the majority order multiples of Pastels sweet or savory.
Decorated with blue tile, though tables outside prove most popular, it is mere moments after paying that teeth crack through Crust, layers separating effortlessly to reveal an interior that is still warm and just short of fully-cooked with a hint of Cinnamon amidst subtle sweetness.
Moving past Pastéis de Nata, a one-time Monastery secret that has defined Portuguese cooking since the early 1800s, one would be remiss to not also order a pair of Fábrica’s Cod Fritters that come hot and virtually oilless with finely shredded Fish complimented by a bit of Herbs.
Garden – Pumpkin from Hortelao do Oeste, Topo Cheese, Garlic
Vegetable/Animal – Squid, Courgette, Rose Shrimp
Depth – John Dory, Blue Lobster, Carolino Rice
Hen House – Pigeon, Ceps, Black Trumpet Mushroom, Chantarelle, Granny Smith Apple
Fruit – Blackberry / Pistachio and Lime
Pastel de Nata
Located in the Altis Belém Hotel & Spa, Restaurante Feitoria features the cooking of Chef João Rodrigues, a one-time aspiring Marine Biologist whose cooking is ingredient focused yet provocative across nine “moments” as guests look out at the river nearby.
Currently awarded one-star by Michelin, and thus less crowded than centrally located Alma or Belcanto, it is upon entry that guests are led to tables with white linens while ambient music plays above modern decoration.
Hard wood and well-spaced, clean lines with spotlighting placing the focus on plates often preceded by Ingredients or tableside preparation, it was alongside a glass of Bubbles that dinner began in seven bites called “Sharing,” Barnacles a special treat while Hamachi atop Citrus, fried bites of Fish and scooped Sweet Potato with tangy Sauce were also memorable.
Next offered housemade Bread flanked by two types of local Butter and Chef Rodrigues’ signature Olive Oil, a temptation through to Dessert, course two featured Carrots and Tomatoes presented with elegance while its follow-up offered Tuna in three parts including a Tartare beneath Caviar and lightly grilled Heart.
Presenting the next dish as a thought-provoker, the “white” of Broccoli Stems turned into a taste and texture akin to Bone Marrow via aging and steam pressure, “Garden” placed creamy Pumpkin in an aromatic Cheese Foam with great depth and balance.
Again challenging convention with “Vegetable/Animal,” a Squash Blossom stuffed with tiny Shrimp replacing the Cephalopod of a Squid, “Depth” steps back to pure product as the day’s catch came perfectly cooked with a bit if Rice, Roe and Sauce.
Modern, yet rooted in tradition, the final savory saw Pigeon carved tableside and plated with Mushrooms before two texturally compelling Fruit-based Desserts and a textbook Pastel de Nata that forms a fitting end to a meal that is Ingredient focused, innovative and bargain priced.
Founded in 1954, and tucked in a residential part if Belém, Pastelaria O Careca has earned notoriety for their Sugar Croissants, in English “Baldman’s Croissant” but in any Language a destination-worthy delicacy that sees the Café’s interior crowded from open till close.
Decorated like most of Lisbon’s Pastelaria, but with a sizable outside terrace shaded by trees more than quadrupling capacity, it is upon entry that guests are greeted in Portuguese, a largely local patronage finding English lacking and few items labeled thus leading to decisions based on prior experience and one’s eyes.
Well priced and accommodating, €1.10 per Pastel de Nata finding the shell a bit soggy but Custard jiggly with a hint of Cinnamon, do consider the Pork Cheek Pie which contains plenty of Meat as well as Castanha Ovo featuring sugary Egg Yolk inside a mm-thick skin.
Cleansing the palate with Coffee, carbonated Water alongside complimentary, it is safe to say that “Cronuts” have nothing on Café do Careca’s fried Viennoiserie shellacked in Granulated Sugar while a Walnut-topped Noz is arguably even more memorable.
Isco’s Bakery Bread – Alentejo Olive Oil, Pico Island Butter
Marinated Rabbit – Rabbit and Coriander Salad, Pickled Red Onion, Mustard Seed
Special Pie – Pork Cheek, Black Garlic Mayonnaise, Anchovies
O Frade Duck Rice
Toucinho do Ceu – Mandarin Sorbet, Sea Salt
Opened just before the pandemic, and achieving Bib Gourmand status shortly thereafter, Restaurante O Frade is a joint project from Chef Carlos Afonso and cousin Sérgio Frade built on a residential corner in Belém.
Originally designed as a small Wine Bar, its name taken from an old taberna that was run by Sérgio’s family, guests are invited to dine outdoors or inside gathered around a U-shaped Bar.
Busy at both lunch and dinner, “Vinho de Talha” from Frade’s father a focus for many while others will appreciate friendly bilingual service and the ability to watch Afonso and team craft each plate, it is immediately upon seating that Ingredients are a focus, ie fresh Bread from Isco’s alongside top tier Olive Oil and Butter churned nearby.
A concise concept with signatures and specials on a small menu, this day’s order focused on the former, do not allow short descriptions to dissuade an order of either “Marinated Rabbit” or “Special Pie” as each bring big flavor with the Rodent cool and fresh while the Pastry is piping hot.
Focused on traditional Portuguese dishes, done with finesse learned during Carlos’ years in fine dining, a decision between large plates becomes easy once one gets a glimpse of O Frade’s Duck Rice that eats like Risotto tinged in Citrus, though Dessert proves a bit more difficult with this visit opting for eggy Almond Pudding Cake crowned in Mandarin Sorbet.
Born out of necessity, former workers from the nearby Monastery turning to baking when the liberal revolution closed Mosteiro dos Jerónimos in 1834, Pastéis de Belém has been honing its craft for nearly 185 years and continues to generate long lines to this day.
Originally a general store and Sugar Cane refinery, but now offering take out or on-site dining, it is inside the tiled building that patrons will find a multitude of Baked Goods plus a selection of Sandwiches, Portuguese classics and Coffee.
Still using the same classic recipes created over one-hundred years ago, the Egg Custard Tarts sold elsewhere as Pastel de Nata here offered with packets of Cinnamon and Confectioner’s Sugar, those fortunate enough to receive warm Pasteis will discover a flaky crust that separates seamlessly filled with Custard stiffer than most plus a touch more Sugar.
Also known for their Saco, essentially a Baba without Booze but extra Whipped Cream, fans of Custard will find plenty inside the Crème Croissant with its soft exterior outside good honeycombing, plus a Mil Folhas that is crisp and light beneath a thick layer of Frosting.
Not labeling many of the products, and busy enough that getting a description from staff is a challenge, be sure to look closely before checking out and for those seeking something not seen elsewhere in Lisbon do consider the Bolo de Arroz which features a crisp dome speckled in Sugar atop a texture not unlike Cornbread.
Cheese Pizza – Naked City Red Sauce, Mozzarella, Rosemary, Basil
Pizza Egg Rolls – Pepperoni, Mozzarella, Egg Roll Wraps, Naked City Pizza Sauce
Historically the first Restaurant ever tapped to #supportlocal with lunch at the office, and reprising their catering role several times since, it was on Wednesday that Naked City Pizza once again put on a show with classics and novelties alike.
The 14th time bringing Christopher and Michael Palmeri’s Pizza Shop off-site, indoor dining at both of their current locations reopened after COVID-19 closures, it was minutes prior to 11:30am that a pair of longtime employees arrived with ten items, easily enough Food for twice the number of guests with plenty of leftovers.
Not exactly a short distance to travel, yet presenting everything temperature appropriate with PPE to assure customer safety, it was not long before first-shift lunchers called dibs on Slices, Cup n’ Char Pepperoni predictably proving popular atop melted Mozzarella and housemade Sauce with plenty of Herbs, as did Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives famous Guinea Pie featuring White Garlic Sauce and Grandma Palmeri’s Meatballs.
Slinging Sin City’s best Chicken Wings, here with medium-spicy Drums and Flats found alongside Housemade Blue Cheese, another old-favorite made a special appearance in the form of Pepperoni and Mozz tucked inside golden wrappers as Pizza Egg Rolls.
Lightening the load with a big Salad and housemade Dressing, Naked City’s Ranch predictably becoming dipping Sauce for the Crust of many, fans likely already know of Chris’ new Breakfast menu featuring an XL-Flour Tortilla stuffed with Scrambled Eggs, Sausage, Bacon, Cheddar and Breakfast Potatoes.
Always pushing the envelope, Naked City’s Garlic Buns eating like Brioche coils with no shortage of Butter, it was instead of Dessert that an all-white Bianco competed for stomach space with the indelible Buffalo 22 Pizza with Hot Honey slicking Cheese, Pepperoni, House Italian Sausage and plenty of Garlic.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone there is a reason Naked City Pizza has been serving Sin City for over a decade, and so long as Christopher and Michael continue to work as hard as they always have there is little doubt that any order will delight a crowd whether at the Shop or delivered.
Located in the Southwest Marketplace off Rainbow Boulevard, Valencian Gold spent most of last year making Bagels or biding time, but in mid-August 2021 the former “Spanish fast-casual” spot reopened as a more complete concept focused on Tapas, Paella and Cocktails.
Catered more than once in the past, Chef Jeffrey Weiss now a solo act assisted by new recruits, it was twenty minutes early that plating was finished in the conference room, both staff and sponsors arriving in awe to see large-diameter pans of Rice joined by freshly dressed Salad and a whole Basque Cheesecake.
Benefitted by extensive training, Chef Weiss previously awarded an Institute of Culinary Education scholarship to train in overseas before authoring “Soul of Spain,” it was after a brief explanation that diners dug into Kale with herbaceous Dressing followed by Pickled Vegetables, Olives and Cheese.
An elegant spread compared to aluminum pans and chaffing dishes, Valencian Gold’s prices still a bargain considering the quality, it was after liberally spreading Queso del Pastor on Sourdough that attention turned to Paella – Valenciana without Rabbit or Snails still a big winner with the largely Hispanic group while its vegan counterpart got plenty of love itself.
Cooked slow and traditionally, both pans developing proper Socarrat across the bottom, it was as an unexpected bonus that Jeffrey also included all-new tangy Chicken Wings Al Ajillo, though moderation had to be shown in order to properly enjoy a slice (or three) of a masterful Dessert that eats a lot like New York Style Cheesecake with subtle char and the linger of Goat Cheese.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, Chef Weiss has reinvented something unique and delicious with Valencian Gold, and although the location may be obscure to some the flavor, price point and creativity should be enough to make the Restaurant a destination.
RECOMMENDED: Paella Valenciana, Chicken Wings Al Ajillo, Queso del Pastor, Basque Cheesecake.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Open 4p-9p Wednesday and Sunday, 4p-10p Thursday through Saturday. Reservations recommended.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
