Restaurante Feitoria
2016 Espumante Luiz Costa Bruto Natural
Sharing – Hamachi, Citrus / Sweet Potato, Tartar Sauce / Onion and Sumagre / Corn, Pickled Onion / Codfish, Potato / Sardine, Pepper / Barnacles
Bread – Cornbread, Sourdough, Goat’s Butter, Cow’s Butter, Ceis Olive Oil, João Rodrigues Olive Oil, Portuguese Sea Salt
Summer – Tomato and Fermented Plum, Lettuce Broth / Carrot, Cumin, Miso
Almadraba – Tuna Tartare, Osetra Caviar, Kombu, Radish / Tuna Heart, Bell Pepper Paste / Tuna Loin, Smoked Broth, Bivalves
Dichotomy – Vegetable Marrow, Broccoli, Peanut Moamba
Garden – Pumpkin from Hortelao do Oeste, Topo Cheese, Garlic
Vegetable/Animal – Squid, Courgette, Rose Shrimp
Depth – John Dory, Blue Lobster, Carolino Rice
Hen House – Pigeon, Ceps, Black Trumpet Mushroom, Chantarelle, Granny Smith Apple
Fruit – Blackberry / Pistachio and Lime
Pastel de Nata
Located in the Altis Belém Hotel & Spa, Restaurante Feitoria features the cooking of Chef João Rodrigues, a one-time aspiring Marine Biologist whose cooking is ingredient focused yet provocative across nine “moments” as guests look out at the river nearby.
Currently awarded one-star by Michelin, and thus less crowded than centrally located Alma or Belcanto, it is upon entry that guests are led to tables with white linens while ambient music plays above modern decoration.
Hard wood and well-spaced, clean lines with spotlighting placing the focus on plates often preceded by Ingredients or tableside preparation, it was alongside a glass of Bubbles that dinner began in seven bites called “Sharing,” Barnacles a special treat while Hamachi atop Citrus, fried bites of Fish and scooped Sweet Potato with tangy Sauce were also memorable.
Next offered housemade Bread flanked by two types of local Butter and Chef Rodrigues’ signature Olive Oil, a temptation through to Dessert, course two featured Carrots and Tomatoes presented with elegance while its follow-up offered Tuna in three parts including a Tartare beneath Caviar and lightly grilled Heart.
Presenting the next dish as a thought-provoker, the “white” of Broccoli Stems turned into a taste and texture akin to Bone Marrow via aging and steam pressure, “Garden” placed creamy Pumpkin in an aromatic Cheese Foam with great depth and balance.
Again challenging convention with “Vegetable/Animal,” a Squash Blossom stuffed with tiny Shrimp replacing the Cephalopod of a Squid, “Depth” steps back to pure product as the day’s catch came perfectly cooked with a bit if Rice, Roe and Sauce.
Modern, yet rooted in tradition, the final savory saw Pigeon carved tableside and plated with Mushrooms before two texturally compelling Fruit-based Desserts and a textbook Pastel de Nata that forms a fitting end to a meal that is Ingredient focused, innovative and bargain priced.
www.restaurantefeitoria.com
