Attached to the cloying smell of Subway on Warm Springs Road is one of 170 Winchell’s, the only explanation for their decades in business seemingly low prices and 24/7 hours catering to undiscerning palates.
Now owned by Yum-Yum Donuts, the family of Verne Winchell selling out in 2004, patrons can still expect the “14 Donut Dozen” made from pre-mix, the Cake rings fairing slightly better than bone-dry Old Fashioned and flavorless raised selections.
Peking Duck – Hoisin Sauce, Scallions, Cucumbers, Bao
Duck Lettuce Wraps
Duck Soup
Pork & Century Egg Congee
Walnut Prawns
Chinese style Clams – Manila Clams, X.O. Sauce, Basil
Chinese Broccoli
Ginger Scallion Lobster with Garlic Noodles
Sizzling Beef with Black Pepper
Chinese Sweet Barley Ginkgo Nut Soup
Located at 7945 South Rainbow Boulevard, as far from Spring Mountain as it is from The Strip, Taste has found an audience by focusing on “authentic Cantonese” cuisine at fair prices for everything from Pork Offal to Seafood from on-site tanks.
Traditional in terms of layout, a brightly-lit banquet room with white tablecloths and minimal décor, it is after a short wait that guests are seated at rounded tables and presented a menu ranging from several pages and styles.
Open from 11am until 10pm daily, peak hours frequently accompanied by a wait, fans of Peking Duck will find Taste’s approximately 1/3 the price of Mott 32 and across three tableside courses everything from crispy Skin on Bao to Soup and Lettuce Wraps is well-prepared in generous amounts.
Moving next to Congee, a bit bland in comparison to others, Walnut Prawns see sweetness reined in by lots of Mayo while Manila Clams in X.O. Sauce are worth the effort plus a bowl of White Rice to soak up all the Sauces.
Waiting a long while for forgettable Chinese Broccoli, admittedly forgotten by the server, Ginger Scallion Lobster saw Shellfish shine despite overcooked Pasta while Sizzling Beef with Black Pepper proved better before finishing with complimentary Chinese Barley Soup.
Cold Bean Curd Noodles with Housemade Scallion Oil
Kao Fu
Still doing good business nearly 4 years after opening, despite growing competition, it was as a party of four that diners once again enjoyed an outstanding meal at ShangHai Taste.
Tucked inside Suite 104 of a two-story complex on the corner of Arville Street and Spring Mountain Road, a ground floor flagship since day one, it is upon entry that eyes are immediately drawn to Chinese-born Chefs working inside the restaurant’s glass prep-room, and with Chef Jimmy Li’s time at 3 Villages, 1900 Asian Cuisine and Niu Gu well-known to fans the fact that everything on-site is made from scratch should come as no surprise.
Seating approximately 40 guests from 11:00am until 9:00pm seven-days-a-week it was with warm greetings that eleven items were received, many old favorites but also Fried Rice and springy Rice Cakes not enjoyed in a while.
Affordable without skimping on Ingredients, all thanks to Chef Li and Joe Muscaglione’s dedication, a distinctive feel is ensured by the fact that almost every single item on-site is imported from or near Shanghai, and starting with Soup Dumplings, or XLB, fans will be happy to know ShangHai Taste’s set a high standard whether made with Pork, Shrimp or Crab.
Able to accommodate most dietary preferences, fried Soup Dumplings in two varieties a winner to all but vegans, those eschewing all Animal products will likely gravitate to fried Pancakes, though even more interesting bites are found in the form of Cold Bean Curd Noodles with Housemade Scallion Oil.
Built on family recipes handed down to Chef Li, his Fat Noodles with choice of Protein always a crowd-pleaser, Dumplings taste wonderful with or without spicy Oil or Soy while cubes of Wheat Gluten with Mushrooms and sweet Sauce are authentically delicious.
Kogi Hot Wings – Oversized wings fried crispy and tossed with Korean bar inspired wing sauce served with homemade ranch
Blue Moon Mulita – Grilled onions with chicken and melted cheese in between two soft corn tortillas topped with Salsa Azul
Pacman Burger – Shortrib, pork, AND chicken – wut?! with Salsa Roja, Salsa Verde, and Salsa Azul, cheddar and jack, Kogi slaw, and sesame mayo in a toasted hamburger bun
World Famous Short Rib Taco – Served with salsa roja, cilantro-onion-lime, and Kogi slaw over two soft corn tortillas
Calamari Taco – Citrus, soy and ginger marinated squid, cilantro-onion-lime and salsa naranja on two soft tortillas
Blackjack Quesadilla – Grilled onions with spicy pork and melted cheese folded in a crispy flour tortilla topped with Salsa Verde
Chocolate Tres Leches – Peanut Butter Crunch
Previously brick & mortar at 3434 Overland Avenue Roy Choi’s Kogi Taqueria reverted to a Food Truck in June of 2023, the man who made Short Rib Tacos a phenomenon returning to his roots with a menu decidedly different from his more famous BBQ.
Begun in 2008, first a late-night Hollywood outpost and eventually a fleet ranging from Anaheim to Santa Barbara, the era post-pandemic sees Roy with everything from a Bar to Las Vegas’ Best Friend thanks to big flavors and friendly customer service.
Grown in the era before #instagram and copied incessantly, Korean-influenced flavors more prominent by the day, Kogi Taqueria focuses largely on Mexican ideas built up by umami, the “Blackjack Quesadilla” perhaps most famous thanks to its heft and fiery Pork with Onions.
Obviously not forgetting the famous Taco, Slaw and Salsa atop spoon-tender Beef, guests can also find Squid bathed in Citrus or the crackling Blue Moon Mulita placing grilled Chicken and Cheese amidst fragrant Salsa Azul.
Rounding out the menu with jumbo Wings for less than some Vegas bars charge for the baby ones, crispy and heated by Gochujang, Choi’s Pacman Burger is best eaten with a fork, knife and several napkins before finishing up with Chocolate Tres Leches topped in crunchy Peanut Butter.
Established in 1986 and quickly building a following for faultless French Rolls the line on West Washington Boulevard remains today, an embrace of Pan Dulce and other Hispanic Pastries routinely generating lines so lengthy that independent cooks show up to sell their Tacos and Tamales.
Open from 6am daily, a cash only policy expediting things best as possible, it is once inside that hundreds of choices are unveiled ranging from Concha in three colors to various bagged snacks, sweets and beverages.
Friendly and efficient with good prices, Breads around $1 and Cake Slices roughly $2.00-3.50, Oreja are crisp with Sugar limited to one side while Yoyo filled with Guava picks up a lot of flavor from Coconut Flakes lining the outside.
Not about to forget frosted Cake or Bread Pudding, Raisins suspended in Custard beneath Glaze, Tres Leches remains springy but saturated with Almonds and a thin layer of Cream that eats lighter than most but no less delicious.
Burgundy Escargots En Croute, Garlic Parsley Butter
Gougere, Brillant Savarin, Medjool Date
Onion Soup Gratinee, Comté Cheese
Braised Pigs Feet Croquette, Lentilles Du Puy, Soft Egg, Frisee Aux Lardons
Cuyama Farms Apple Tart, Cinnamon Ice Cream, Salted Caramel
Riz au Lait, Coconut, Pineapple, Lime, Pomegranate Arils, Streusel
As a SoCal native Walter Manzke’s cooking has always relied on the state’s best Ingredients, and after years of work with Joachim Splichal followed by Bastide, Church & State then Republique it might be argued that there is no more qualified Chef in Los Angeles to run a Parisian Bistro like Bicyclette.
Located on the ground floor of the building where Manzke resides, a 1* Michelin Tasting Menu above, Bicyclette instead focuses on casual fare featuring faultless execution and great Ingredients made to taste as they do in Lyon and Paris.
A low-slung space below street level, dim lights focusing attention on a spotless kitchen next to the bar, guests entering Bicyclette are greeted warmly by each staff member they encounter even before looking at the menu or ordering a beverage.
A buzzy space without being too loud, just as it is pricey without breaking the bank, diners are directed to a list of daily specials in addition to the monthly menu which includes a top-tier Baguette from Margarita Manzke intended to be eaten with a selection of Spreads.
Smart to order a Cocktail, Miyako Hotel Special Royale a complex sipper with lots of Herbs and Citrus, Hors d’oeuvres priced per piece are highlighted by individual Snails in Puff Pastry plus delicate Choux currently filled with Brillant Savarin topped in Medjool Date Puree.
Not about to forgo “French” Onion Soup complete with a wdge of Bread and caramelized Comté the choice of Plats saw both Duck and Quail lose out to a peerless Croquette of Pig’s Trotters with Lentils and Salade Lyonnaise.
Turning Pastry over to Margarita, her work at Republique a city-wide phenomenon still, Tarte Tatin finds itself magnified by Cuyama Farms Apples plus Salty Caramel while Rice Pudding is fluffy like those in old Paris Bistros with Fruits added for texture and a hint of the tropics.
Goat Barbacoa Roja Taco, Lamb Barbacoa Blanca Taco, Consomee
Tlayuda with Tazajo – corn tortilla topped with a light layer of lard, refried black beans, quesillo, cabbage, tomato, avocado
Opened in 2010 Gish Bac is led by third generation barbacoa master Maria Ramos, and along with husband David the Oaxacan spot in Arlington Heights turns out Meats cooked slow and succulent plus rich Mole and a top-tier Tlayuda all featuring fresh Tortillas.
Roughly translated as “a place of abundance,” an idea uncommon at Los Angeles’ fanciest Mexican eateries, Gish Bac features casual environs plus friendly service across perhaps a dozen tables in full-view of a kitchen working almost non-stop.
Lined in brick with Mexican tunes playing overhead it is a mistake to not start with Horchata featuring the works, a trio of Prickly Pear Sorbet, Melon and Walnuts adding depth to housemade Rice Milk that goes great with complimentary Chips plus Salsa and a side of Mole made with minimal sweetness and lingering heat.
Well-known for Barbacoa, a dish novices may not associate with Oaxaca, rest assured that Mrs. Ramos is a master whether utilizing Goat or weekend-special Lamb and even those dining solo would be well-advised to not skip the monstrous Tlayudas offered “plain” or beneath a variety of tender cuts of Beef.
Despite shuttering Fiona after just nine months Chef Nicole Rucker has bounced back in a big way with Fat + Flour, the kiosk with limited-hours giving rise to a larger space inside Grand Central Market and now a full-fledged storefront at 11739 Washington Blvd.
Known through years baking for others including Travis Lett and James Starr, plus 2019 cookbook “Dappled,” Rucker’s collection now changes monthly or more often though signatures such as Key Lime and Chocolate Chess Pies are available daily (unless they sell out, as they do frequently.)
Also offering Salads, Sandwiches and Quiche at the new spot, a cozy space with seating, service proves curt but efficient while prices are on par with what might expect in Los Angeles for artisan Baked Goods.
Smart to start with a $4 Biscuit still-warm from the oven at 9:30am, layers separating delicately around Apple Butter, Rucker’s Gluten-Free Coconut Macaroon Pecan Brownie is rich and dense while an Oatmeal Raisin Cookie with Coconut offers a crisp ring around the more-pliable center.
Skipping signatures this time for seasonal flavors, America’s best Crust supporting Bananas, Cream and Custard, fans of salty-sweet pairings will find lots to love about Peanut Butter Cream beneath Whip on a crushed-Pretzel base.
Deconstructed key lime pie – fior di late ice cream, lime gel
Flan – Traditional custard, caramel, lemon curd
Serving Las Vegas since January 2022 and now a James Beard Award Foundation finalist plus Yelp! Winner for best new Restaurant, Anima by EDO merges Italian and Spanish Cuisine into an elegant experience from Chef Oscar Amador.
Run by industry veterans from front-of-house to kitchen it is following warm greetings at the door that guests are led to a choice of diverse seating options, banquets in the back most quiet with a full view of murals from local artist Apolo Torres.
More “approachable” than EDO Gastro Tapas & Wine per General Manager Roberto Liendo, though certainly never lacking for creativity, Dinner at Anima begins with Appetizers ranging from Eggs with three types of Roe to a “Caviar Bomb” followed by Baby Scallops topped in Thai-style Sauce.
Not forgetting Hamachi unveiled in a swirl of smoke with Duck Liver and Apples, or creamy Cheese with Butternut Squash and Fruit, EDO’s Cracker-thin Bikini Sandwich cannot be ignored even in the face of fried Artichokes or indelible Uni Toast each with Golden Osetra Caviar.
Happy to see two previously tasted Pastas, Crab Culurgiones in Lobster Sauce somewhat akin to Quenelles de Brochet, Honeynut Squash Caramelle offered an elegant transition to Scallops in Mussel Sauce followed by tender Pork and Potatoes brightened by pickled Salsify.
The second visit In four days, an almost entirely different menu attesting to the skills of Chef Oscar and Tayden Ellamar. Dessert saw Key Lime Pie revisited along with sharable Pistachio Tiramisu and Roberto’s family-recipe Flan paired to nearly 100 year old Sherry.
Salted Dark Chocolate Caramel, Coconut Bonbon, English Toffee, Soft Caramel, Sea Salt Caramel, Almond Cremes
Simply described as “two sisters, with their mom’s help, learning the lost art of Candy making and how to run a business to raise money for school trips and fun activities” it is safe to say most of Las Vegas has never heard of The Confection Kitchen, but thanks to a generous gift this writer can confirm the products suggest some degree of mastery developed along the way.
Well-priced from their square site, most items $12 per 8oz, consistency suggests quality Cocoa whether Milk or Dark coating insides of cooling Peppermint, chewy Coconut or gooey Caramel.
Not one to skip English Toffee, its brisk break and pronounced butteriness here wrapped around Chocolate and Pecans, contact owners directly for special orders available for pick-up or delivery.
Consistently one of Las Vegas’ toughest reservations Delilah debuted at Wynn in July of 2021, the “social dining” experience from L.A.’s h.wood Group making good use of Michelin 2* Alex’s former footprint with million dollar upgrades and aspirations to redefine a modern day Supper Club.
Long awaited and debuted with an opulent Grand Opening of A-List celebrities, guests are immediately met by a small foyer before entering the thirty-seat Little Bubble Bar whose rich fabrics overlook the main Dining Room two floors below.
Accessed via double staircases, with bronze and marble gilding the space envisioned by Wynn’s Todd-Avery Lenahan, tables reside between a main stage and larger bar with posh materials and wood surrounded by plaster ceilings above numerous original paintings.
Fusing interior to outside via paired courtyards, one abutting the Chef’s Table and secret dining room directly accessed via the kitchen, it was in the middle of the action that four diners sat Wednesday to enjoy forteen plates from Chef Josh Smith and team.
Over-the-top in a good way, from contrasting patterns and custom porcelain to gracious servers with encyclopedic knowledge of the Chef Smith’s Cuisine, it is once Beverages are ordered that tables receive complimentary Milk Bread, each slice piping hot with a delicate crumb ready to be slathered by some of the best Butter in America.
Sparing no expense in terms of Ingredients or décor, Josh’s King Crab Caesar enjoyed amidst murals and mirrors, Appetizers from Chef Smith continued with Hamachi Sashimi dressed in Chiles and Crab Cakes that certainly bring the Meat with almost no filler.
High energy in the main room, easy for conversing until live music starts, additional small bites include Wagyu Beef Sausage wrapped in crunch Croissants and “Delilah’s Famous Chicken Tenders” that justify their signature status in terms of both taste and texture.
Onward to Entrees, Delilah’s Beef Wellington omitted in favor of the Burger and new items such as Wagyu London Broil, Jumbo Prawns make fast fans thanks to complex Mole amidst Sweet Potato Dumplings.
Not forgetting Pasta, housemade Cavatelli beneath sweet Crab and spicy Vodka Sauce, it remains pretty tough to beat Chef Smith’s vertical Macaroni with Mimolette Fondue and Black Truffle Béchamel brought over from Bardot at Aria
Growing livelier by the minute, but never too loud, it was around 8:15pm that the Captain poured Molten Chocolate overtop “Kendall’s Slutty Brownie,” but no matter how good this or Delilah’s Rocky Road Sundae are it will still take more to outpace Josh’s Grandmother’s world-class Gooey Butter Cake as Las Vegas’ best Dessert.
Cappeletti, short rib ragu, vodka sauce, parmesan, basil
Truffle Cavatelli, Salchichón, Bone Marrow, English Peas
2018 Poderi Aldo Conterno Bussia Barolo
Kurobuta pork cheeks, black truffle, vermouth sauce, black trumpet mushrooms
Deconstructed key lime pie, flor di late ice cream, lime gel
Sake kasu panna cotta, vanilla, arbequina olive oil
Serving Las Vegas since January 2022 and now a James Beard Award Foundation finalist plus Yelp! Winner for best new Restaurant, Anima by EDO merges Italian and Spanish Cuisine into an elegant experience with several of Chef Oscar Amador’s signatures making their way over from the flagship.
Run by industry veterans from front-of-house to kitchen it is following warm greetings at the door that guests are led to a choice of diverse seating options, banquets in the back most quiet with a full view of murals from local artist Apolo Torres.
More “approachable” than EDO Gastro Tapas & Wine per General Manager Roberto Liendo, though certainly never lacking for creativity, Dinner at Anima begins with Appetizers ranging from Olive Oil Gelato with Caviar to briny Oysters following Baby Scallops topped in Thai-influenced Sauce.
Visited on this day during a Wine dinner, several courses matched to stories from Poderi Aldo Conterno, Cold Leeks with dueling Roes showed great restraint before Jidori Chicken Escabeche adjacent delicate Cephalopod Charcuterie.
Not forgetting Hamachi unveiled in a swirl of smoke with Duck Liver and Apples, before transitioning to Red, EDO’s Bikini Sandwich cannot be forgotten even in the face of Japanese Sweet Potatoes or indelible Uni Toast with Ham and Truffles.
Going all-in on Pastas, #instafamous Truffle Cavatelli joined by Short Ribs in Vodka Sauce plus Spinach Raviolini in nutty Pesto, 2018 Barolo found its match in Kurobuta Pork with Black Truffle and Vermouth Sauce prior to two new Desserts from Oscar and Tayden Ellamar.
Red Velvet Cake Doughnut with Cream Cheese Frosting
Peanut Butter and Jelly Doughnut
Horchata and Churro Doughnut
Lemon Poppyseed Doughnut
Sir Mocha Lot with Coffee Glaze Doughnut
Pink Fruity Pebbles Doughnut
Oreo Vanilla Doughnut
Blueberry Cinnamon Toast Doughnut
Red Velvet Cake Doughnut with Peppermint Frosting
M&Ms Vanilla Doughnut
Chocolate Chip Vanilla Doughnut
Family owned and operated from the start, Dominic Sang bringing family recipes from a Texas Doughnuttery to Sin City in October 2015, guests entering Glaze Doughnuts will notice little has since changed about the shop in 8 years while a soft base and creative toppings earn “Best of Las Vegas” accolades annually.
Located on Fort Apache Road, fair prices and friendly service undoubtedly part of Glaze’s appeal, what the shop lacks in selection is more than made up for in quality compared to the likes of Dunkin, Krispy Kream or other spots nearby.
Largely built on Yeast Rings, though undersized Fritters perform admirably, fans of simplicity will find Maple Frosting far more subtle than most while Chocolate and Vanilla Glaze are also of excellent quality with or without additions such as Cereal or Candy.
Not over-the-top, but balanced and complex, Ube and Coconut dazzle atop a fluffy leavened base while Peanut Butter and Jelly do the same, though if one is seeking Glaze’s top choice the decision comes down to Blueberry Cinnamon Toast, Churros and Horchata or Matcha Green Tea Pistachio that delivers sweetness beneath toasty notes.
PERSIMMON & PROSCIUTTO – fuyu persimmon, prosciutto, parmiggiano, sage, saba
BURRATA & MUSHROOMS – chili crisp, roasted local mushrooms, grilled sourdough
SALMON KAMA – kombu cure, pomegranate glaze, pickles, lettuce wraps
PIG & THE APPLE – soy cider glazed pork belly, apple miso butter, rose apple kimchi
TUNA TATAKI – mushroom poke, uni ponzu, chili oil
BRAISED SHORT RIB – red wine coffee braise, horseradish cream, butternut squash puree
MUSHROOM POLENTA – local mushrooms, chive creme fraiche
CHINA RANCH DATE CAKE – caramelized kabocha pumpkin, miso toffee sauce, ginger ice cream
MOM’S BANANA BREAD – local wildflower honey, good butter, sea salt
PANNA COTTA – fall market fruits, red wine syrup, lace cookie
PINEAPPLE UPSIDE DOWN SUNDAE – greek yogurt soft serve, pineapple upside down cake flavors
Referencing a recently heard quote “the end result is never better than the quality of the Product you start with” Roy Ellamar’s new restaurant titled Fine Company is everything one might expect and more than one could possibly hope for in Downtown Summerlin.
Mostly quiet since departing his namesake Harvest at Bellagio in 2021, as seasonal and smart a Restaurant as Las Vegas Boulevard has ever hosted, Fine Company finds Roy and team cooking familiar Food flawlessly while the service is top notch.
A full rebuild of MTO, the space now warm and open with wood punctuated by spots of color plus cookbooks, it was late-November that Dinner service officially began in addition to the already impressive daytime spread.
Continuing a trend of Strip-Chefs flourishing in the community, Roy’s ability to prepare great Ingredients in a way that lets them shine amongst the best in Sin City, one need look no further than the aptly named “PERSIMMON & PROSCIUTTO” to understand as thin pieces of Pork meld perfectly with ripe Fruit, Cheese and Saba.
Managed by Jamie Greco and backed by LEV, each server wearing a smile with comprehensive knowledge of the menu, the “PIG & APPLE” goes well beyond its simple name thanks to tender Pork Belly and vibrant Kimchi while “SALT & PEPPER SHRIMP” burst to the tooth yielding sweet flesh.
Bridging Brunch with a happy hour full of fun ideas “CAVIAR PAPAS” find Potatoes fried in Fat supporting Fish Eggs and Creme Fraiche while Burrata spread on Toast with Mushrooms is brightened by Chilis.
Lucky to score one of the night’s Salmon Collars, limited in number and peerlessly prepared alongside Lettuce Wraps, do not overlook Tuna or Cornmeal each matched to Mushrooms or the Coffee-braised Beef served spoon-tender atop pureed Squash.
Chic but family-friendly, a neighborhood Restaurant by all standards including prices that are more than fair, Desserts reminisce of Harvest’s highlights whether one selects twice-baked Banana Bread that Ellamar’s mother has been baking since his childhood in Hawaii, fragrant Panna Cotta, Date Cake or an Ice Cream Sundae inspired by Pineapple Upside Down Cake.
Previously a novelty store 1228 MAIN is the culmination of a journey that began as a Bread stand at the Downtown Summerlin Farmer’s Market, David Robins, Dustin Lewandowski and Sébastien Polycarpe bringing their collective talents to the Arts District with impressive results.
A partnership with Wolfgang Puck, Robins having opened five of the Chef’s projects over the past three decades, it is upon entry that guests will note a Barista stand and two glass cases including one filled to the top with Pastries from the hands of men previously employed by names including Savoy and Robuchon.
Open for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner with Puck having moved his Bread production for all of Las Vegas to the expansive kitchen, it is from the counter or at a table that orders are placed for everything from well-priced Coffee to Soups, Salads, Sandwiches, Appetizers and Entrees.
Surrounded by paid parking and buzzy Bars, though 1228’s Wine and Spirits shouldn’t be overlooked, Saturday dinner featured a wide array of items shared by fourteen guests.
Beginning with Breads and Spreads, Multi-Grain Rye and Cherry Walnut that wouldn’t be out of place at a Michelin 3* Restaurant matched to Green Garlic Butter and Liver with Cherries, 1228’s Pear & Apple Salad proves light and seasonal with just enough acid to magnify each component.
Onward to Appetizers listed as “Small Plates,” spoon-tender Pork Belly offered beneath roasted Peaches, Grilled California Squid finds itself dazzling amidst Beans and Olives while Hand-Cut Steak Tartare reaches new heights with Almonds and Chilis atop layered Potatoes.
Not surprised to see Pasta at a place associated with Puck, Handmade Farfalle matched to spicy Sausage and Spaghetti boosted by Pancetta plus Chilis, predictions in August that the Pot Pie would be equally compelling in December couldn’t be truer.
All-in on Desserts, the Amalfi Lemon Cake standing tall and proud, suffice it to say that no matter how good the Flourless Chocolate Cake never stood a chance against Sébastien’s Basque Cheesecake or gooey Pineapple Butter Cake imbued with Buttermilk.
BOURBON FUDGE BROWNIE – Brown Butter Bacon Ice Cream
GLAZED DONUT BREAD PUDDING – Three Rum Caramel, Vanilla Crème Anglaise
Ground-breaking since opening Carson Kitchen’s greatness has seemingly become so expected that many are prone to overlook it, but on Thursday night 124 South 6th Street was jammed-packed for a menu that continues to exude creativity, quality and the sort of Food that challenges without compromise yet always seems delicious and familiar.
Fortunate to have tasted every new plate at Carson Kitchen since summer of 2015, Chefs Harwell, Simon and team forever rethinking even longtime best-sellers, it was alongside Cocktails that dining began shortly, “Everybody Loves Monica” well-suited to iconic Chicken Skins, bubbling Bacon Jam and Tempura Green Beans with Pepper Jelly Cream Cheese.
Continuing with more Skins, equally enjoyable today as in 2014, Duck Tacos stand out thanks to Basil Cream juxtaposing lean Meat while Hotdog Burnt Ends and Oysters grilled with spicy Pork are each brilliant plates riffing on tradition.
Again rethinking Beets, this time more hearty with Grains for colder weather, the Bok Choy Wedge is also quite weighty but a nice side to seasonal Flatbreads including Mediterranean Mushrooms and Short Ribs with Red Pepper Béchamel.
Herbaceous across both “Shut Up, Cory” and “Lucky #13,” the latter’s Red Wine well-suited to a Meatloaf Sandwich, Honey-glazed Salmon or Pork beneath Apples and Chutney, Spinach Salad and Hemp Seed Pesto Shrimp are fare better than “Root Veg” rendered largely one-note by Gochujang Miso.
Glad to see “Piper’s Choice” again, an Espresso Martini built better than the rest, “one of each” Dessert is not enough when talking about Latte Cheesecake atop Chestnut Pudding, Las Vegas’ best Brownie or Donut Bread Pudding that somehow keeps getting better with time.
Dulce de Leche Ganache with Cinnamon Ganache Cronut
Opened in October 2022 where Payard used to stand it seems as though Dominique Ansel’s arrival in Las Vegas was long overdue, the celebrity Chef’s Los Angeles location now shuttered and Sin City’s continuous stream of tourists ready to pay $10 for a Viennoiserie that first generated lines over a decade ago.
Originally encountered by this writer as Pastry Chef at then Michelin 3* Daniel, his 2011 departure to SoHo a risk that has reaped rewards a thousand times over, 2023 finds Dominique Ansel a global phenomenon and 2017 JBFA winner whose hybrid Croissant-Doughnut has spawned countless copies including several right here in Sin City.
Known for an approach touting “unlimited possibilities,” a rotating collection of Entremet lining cases surrounded by Pastries and merchandise, Dominique Ansel Las Vegas sees the area left of Caesars’ entrance bright white and bustling with guests looking to snag a flaky Ring filled with creative Ingredients including Cinnamon-heavy Dulce de Leche while others just pose for selfies.
More than double the price in 2012, a combination of “Strip-pricing” and fame, better bites from Ansel include the Brenton Butter Pastry here called DKA but better known as Kouign Amann as well as weighty Cookies.
When Purple Potato releases new items it is time to get in line, Ramir Bolanos DeCastro’s boundless creativity making it uncertain when the next chance will be to sample stellar Cinnamon Buns or the sweet yet savory Cheesy Yema Tres Leches.
Home to a rapidly expanding population with some 40,000,000+ yearly visitors it stands to reason that hundreds of millions of folks have tasted Carl’s Donuts since 1966, yet it was not until April 2018 that the supplier of untold numbers of Coffee Shops and Convenience Stores finally re-entered the retail arena with a store on East Sunset.
Last available direct-to-consumer over two decades prior, various middle-men including everything from Casinos to spots like Grouchy John’s offering Carl Sanders’ Pastries in the intervening years, 2023 finds Carl’s now fueled by #influencers and like-for-like promotions despite products that lag far behind local competition.
Officially addressed 3170 East Sunset Road, close to Wayne Newton’s Casa de Shenandoah, it is across several cases that Carl’s offers “Top Shelf,” “Classic” and “Fancy” flavors plus poorly-laminated Croissants and Danishes.
Me-too more than innovative, the “seasonal” menu featuring Ube Croissants and artificially-flavored “Strawberry” Shortcake, Carl’s Fritters are smaller and greasier than Friendly or Pink Box and more comparable to Winchell’s or Krispy Kreme.
Built for volume and better with classics like a Cinnamon Roll, though the version resembling a Persian with Granulated Sugar atop Cream Cheese is frankly awful, Pumpkin Spice Cake performs well, as does the Boston Creme Bismarck.
Grinch – Yeast Doughnut, Green Frosting, Chocolate Whip, Grinch décor
Located at 9435 West Tropicana Avenue inside Crossroads Plaza Shopping Center and open 24-hours Pinkbox Doughnuts remains Las Vegas’ premier spot for Artisan Doughnuts, just as it has since debuting over a decade ago.
More and more social-media savvy over the years this visit entailed far beyond the usual “OG Classics,” and although PinkBox’s Old Fashioned Cogwheels are still Las Vegas’ best additional traditional choices are mostly as expected making “Fancy Pancy” or “Show Off” choices a necessity.
Often beginning with a Fritter, this day no different and the resulting bite packed with Cinnamon plus Fruit, each “DoughCro” sees layers separate nicely beneath Frosting while specials including Ginger Snaps and Grinch are also highly recommended.
