Although Kolaches originated in Czechoslovakia the Sweet Bread has become almost as Texas as BBQ, nearly every Donut Shop or Bakery in the Lonestar State offering their own iteration while places such as Greg Saltsman and Wade Chappell’s Pearl Snap have built their entire Restaurant around the Pastry.
Named after the buttons on Western shirts, but not nearly so fancy inside or out, it is from a chalkboard menu that selections are offered, a dozen varieties of Kolache both sweet or savory offered alongside simple Breakfasts, Burgers and “Sammies.”
A passion project by the two friends, now entering year nine, Kolaches are baked throughout the day and invariably fresh, $2.75 each yielding yeasty Rolls centered by housemade Preserves, lightly sweetened Cream Cheese or even the flavors and texture of Pecan Pie.
Begun as a Food Truck out front of Republic Street Bar in 2018 Panther City BBQ’s ascent has been slow and steady, a recent promotion to one of Texas Monthly’s Top 10 occurring just as owners Chris Magallanes and Ernest Morales are building a larger space just a few hundred yards away.
Previously members of the audiovisual world, but finding happiness in the competition circuit before occupying an offset smoker at 201 East Hattie Street, it was at freezing temperatures that a line began to develop on Saturday at 10:15, sales starting about twenty minutes later with the first Smoked Meats emerging by 10:50.
An homage to Fort Worth’s “Panther City” nickname, with daily specials joining the usual suspects, it was amidst a mix of Cowboys and 49ers fans that dining began with a “Flacodilla,” the only thing skinny its fluffy Tortilla that cooked up crisp around melty Cheese, Onions and bits of Fatty Brisket.
Served fresh from the skillet, two trays of ‘cue soon to follow, Panther City’s 3-Meat plate comes generously portioned for $22, the Brisket well-cooked, tender and moist while Ribs with adequately rendered Fat fall short of crisp and unctuous Pork Belly Burnt Ends.
A bit let down by Smoked Bologna, its flavor simply lacking, housemade Sausage from a cabinet smoker fares far better while Creamed Corn with or without added Meat is world-class thanks to the inclusion of Lime, Tajin and Cotija.
A bit overwhelmed by the smokiness of Panther City’s Mac n’ Cheese, though it is undoubtedly one of the creamiest specimens sampled anywhere, it was finding both Poppers and Nutter Butter Cheesecake unavailable that lunch concluded with Bread vs Banana Pudding, each delicious with preference determined by whether one is seeking something hefty or light.
Holiday Style Sweet Potato Tots – Brown Sugar & Pecan Streusel, Toasted Marshmallow
Monte Cristo – Ham, Smoked Turkey, Jack Cheese, French Toast Biscuit, Strawberry Preserves
Born in Plano, and now with six locations including a Deep Ellum shop opened in late-2019, The Biscuit Bar suggests “Everything is better on a Biscuit” and lives by those words…save for when Tater Tots are concerned.
Owned by Janie and Jake Burkett, initial success at Granite Park and across from SMU’s Campus built on good Biscuits and fair prices, it is in an area with limited parking that patrons will find varieties both sweet and savory amidst an industrial-chic space decorated in clever neon.
Part of an office building called “The Epic,” and easily walkable from nearby apartments, it was 8:15am when things were found quiet, a few cops stopping in and each diner greeted with pleasantries by the woman at the counter.
Offering a full bar with all the carbs, plus Coffee and Soft Drinks, Breakfast began with one plain Biscuit, the commercial packet of Smucker’s utterly disappointing for something scratch-made and rife with Buttermilk, especially at $3.
At this point uncertain if The Monte Cristo’s “Strawberry Preserves” were truly Preserves or more low-cost HFCS, but generally happy with the Custard-dipped and griddled Biscuit with Meat and Cheese, Desserts were skipped in favor of $7 Holiday Style Tots that reminisce of Thanksgiving in every way save the small portion.
Opened in June of 2021 by Amy and Casey La Rue Carte Blanche was never meant to be taken lightly, the Tasting Menu evenings and morning Viennoiseries telling a story of the husband-and-wife team who met in Phoenix before cooking in some of America’s best kitchens and finally settling in Dallas.
Occupying a former Restaurant in Lower Greenville, its current layout divided left and right behind a big wooden door, 7:00am sees guests led left where Amy’s Pastries reside along a counter behind glass, some two-dozen daily choices ranging from beautifully laminated Danishes to tantalizing Doughnuts topped with shiny Glaze.
Priced on par with other such concepts, plush leather chairs offering far more comfort than the usual café, it was with wide eyes that nine Pastries plus two Coffees were ordered, first bites of a Soft Pretzel offering good stretch and a bit of heat before attention turned to an Almond Croissant stuffed with housemade Paste that is only subtly sweet.
Next enjoying a world-class Kouign Amann while an orchestral rendition of Macklemore’s “Thrift Shop” played, shattering layers and Sugar falling to the ground while the center was still wet with Butter, La Rue’s Bostock succeeds as a result of good Bread and over-ripe Bananas while her Cream Cheese Danish carefully balances weighty filling with delicate surroundings.
Not afraid to dip into more “homestyle” selections, the day’s Carrot Cake Loaf moist beneath Pecan Streusel, one would be hard-pressed to name a better Chocolate Chip Cookie than Carte Blanche’s oversized version while both the Brioche Doughnuts and eggy Crullers are peerless – the later especially better than any previously tasted.
Always happy to #supportlocal with an office favorite, CRAFTkitchen once again catered on Friday, Chef Blinn predictably arriving early with all the necessary items and this time presenting attendees with “Breakfast for Lunch” for the 7th time.
Previously taking on Mexican and Asian themes, but this time squarely in the Henderson hot-spot’s wheelhouse, it was only partly from CRAFTkitchen’s current menu that eight items were presented, savories starting with Cheddar and Green Onion Biscuits that are lovely on their own but even better topped with Italian Sausage Gravy.
Always well-portioned and fair-priced, a group of twenty-five getting their fill with plenty of leftovers packed to-go, it was alongside these that guests enjoyed Avocado Toast plus Quiche, the latter featuring flaky Crusts, Caramelized Onions, Smoked Bacon and Cheese.
Not about to forget CRAFTkitchen’s Chilaquiles, a signature upgraded this time by housemade Chorizo, those seeking sweet instead of savory were left to choose from two options, fluffy Pancakes with Syrup and Nutella pitted against warm Cinnamon Rolls slathered in Frosting prominent with Cream Cheese.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone CRAFTkitchen has always gone the extra mile to assure off-site dining is every bit as delicious as inside the Restaurant on South Eastern, and although it is fun to get creative sometimes this Breakfast-for-Lunch sampling was a generous reminder of what has made Jaret and Tami’s place great from day one.
RECOMMENDED: Every single dish.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: See the website for sample catering items, Family Meals and current menu, or contact the Restaurant directly with a budget and let them do what they do best.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Charcuterie Salad – Spinach, Lettuce, Banana Peppers, Salami, Ham, Turkey, Mozzarella Cheese, Tomatoes, Red Wine Vinaigrette
Garlic Buns
Guinea Pie – White Garlic Sauce, Spinach, Grandma’s Meatballs, Mozzarella Cheese, Ricotta Cheese
Buffalo 22 Pizza – White Sauce, Mozzarella, Cup n Char Pepperoni, House Italian Sausage, Crispy Garlic, Hot Honey, Roasted Garlic Crust
Cheese Pizza – Naked City Red Sauce, Mozzarella
Pepperoni Pizza – Naked City Red Sauce, Mozzarella, Cup n Char Pepperoni
Chicken Finger Pizza – Blue Cheese Sauce, Chopped Chicken Fingers tossed in Frank’s Red Hot, Mozzarella
Stuffed Mushrooms – White Button Mushrooms, Naked City Sausage, Mozzarella, Parmesan, Garlic Sauce
Guinea Pasta – Spaghetti, White Garlic Sauce, Spinach, Grandma’s Meatballs, Ricotta
Oreo Brookie
Oreo Brookie with Walnuts
Historically the first Restaurant ever selected to #supportlocal with lunch at the office, and reprising their catering role several times since, it was on Friday that Naked City Pizza delivered from the Blue Diamond Road “Express” location approximately ten minutes away.
The 19th time bringing Christopher and Michael Palmeri’s Pizza Shop off-site, indoor dining now reopened brand-wide, it was minutes prior to 11:30am that Michael arrived with a glut of items, easily enough Food for twice the number of guests with plenty of leftovers for later.
Presenting everything temperature appropriate with PPE to assure customer safety, it was not long before first-shift lunchers called dibs on Slices, Cup n’ Char Pepperoni predictably proving popular atop melted Mozzarella and housemade Sauce with plenty of Herbs, as did Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives famous Guinea Pie featuring White Garlic Sauce and Grandma Palmeri’s Meatballs.
Slinging Sin City’s best Chicken Wings, a few dozen devoured in minutes, Salad again proved popular with those seeking something lighter while the Buffalo 22 Pizza continues to make waves with dueling Meats, White Sauce, Crispy Garlic and Mike’s Hot Honey.
Continuing with Garlic Buns, slices continued to be enjoyed alongside an inspired new Pasta while Dessert consisted of housemade Brookies impregnated with Oreos that taste great warm, cold or even two days later.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone there is a reason Naked City Pizza has been serving Sin City for over a decade, and so long as Christopher and Michael continue to work as hard as they always have there is little doubt that any order will delight a crowd whether at the Shop or delivered.
BBQ Pork Bao Buns – Sweet Soy, Chilis, Shiitake Mushrooms
Szechuan Beef Bao Buns – Angus Beef, Szechuan Peppers, Scallions
Royale with Cheese Bao Buns – Angus Beef, Cheese, Pickles, Onions, Special Sauce
Nutella Bao Buns
Previously discussing Chef Marrone’s background here, time with Tao Group unequivocally involved in Asian Cuisine capable of satisfying both discerning diners and folks that typically gravitate to Panda Express, it was on-time Friday that Graffiti Bao’s Chef de Cuisine arrived with everything necessary, professionalism and safety never in question.
Opting for old favorites from a menu that offers far more diversity than its brevity suggests, the Graffiti Burger was predictably the first stop for many, and although the tender Meat and fresh Toppings were highly praised Graffiti Bao’s Chicken Fried Rice remains a fan-favorite thanks to toasted Chiles and bits of fried Skin on top.
Onward to Green Beans slicked with Honey, the quality of Graffiti Bao’s sourcing shows well from Protein to Produce, five styles of the Restaurant’s eponymous Buns satisfying diners on this day with the BBQ Pork a favorite for many but the Pulp Fiction referencing Royale with Cheese also pretty tough not to enjoy.
Neglecting White Rice to save stomach capacity for better things, at least three whole Scallion Pancakes devoured over the course of an hour, Marrone’s Braised Short Ribs with folded Bao saw two trays emptied nearly as quickly.
Rounding out the allotment with Crispy Wings and Spring Rolls, the latter often overlooked but amongst the best of their kind thanks to an oilless exterior housing plenty of meat and flavor, it was with plenty of Leftovers packed that staff was sated and already looking forward to the next time Graffiti Bao is ordered.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, Graffiti Bao sets a very high standard in terms of customer service, while every Item across seventeen orders has been nicely presented, displaying “Fusion” without being compromised and appealing to a broad range of diners.
RECOMMENDED: Scallion Pancakes, Royale with Cheese Bao Buns, BBQ Pork Bao Buns, Chicken Egg Fried Rice, Braised Short Ribs, Sticky Green Beans, Prawn and Pork Spring Rolls, Graffiti Burger.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Southwest location is open Monday through Sunday from 11:00am to 8:00pm. Follow @GraffitiBao for specials including those at the re-opened original in T-Mobile Arena and up in Utah.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Chocolate Cookie Crumb Butterscotch Cashew Pop Tart
Pear Pecan Pop Tart
Maine Blueberry Pop Tart
Cranberry Orange Scone
Cinnamon Churro Cookie
Double Chocolate Espresso Cookie
Sticky Toffee Pudding Scone
Salty Butterscotch Chocolate Chip Cookie
Opened in July 2019 with a promise of single origin Beans and extraordinary service The Coffee Class has found its second gear, record numbers on the regular and upcoming expansion attesting to the quality of Kyle Cunningham’s concept.
A passion project for the local real estate professional, who can frequently be found on-site assisting staff and greeting customers, it is in consultation with Chef Beth Ryan-Small that the cozy yet upscale café continues to wow with an ever evolving collection of sweets and savories.
Ordered as take-out, eight items from Chef Ryan-Small driven twenty-five minutes west, Brunch began with Biscuits, laminated and flaky with pronounced Buttermilk amenable to Honey or Butter but pretty much perfect unadorned.
Continuing along, the better of seasonal Pop Tarts a toss-up between Pear Pecan and Wild Blueberry while Chocolate Cashew lags a bit behind, suffice it to say that Beth’s Salty Butterscotch Chocolate Chip Cookie remains a standard-bearer while the Cinnamon Churro eats like a Snickerdoodle with Caramel at its center.
Not about to forget The Coffee Class’ Scones, still Las Vegas’ best, Cranberry Orange got lost in the wake of Sticky Toffee Pudding that matches its namesake’s taste while the all-new Double Chocolate Espresso Cookie finds bitters well balanced by Cocoa plus Sea Salt.
FIVE STARS: This collection from The Coffee Class was unequivocally successful from Ingredients and presentation to cost and taste – exactly as one would hope from what might just be the city’s best under-the-radar experience.
RECOMMENDED: Housemade Biscuits, Pear Pecan Pop Tart, Maine Blueberry Pop Tart, Cinnamon Churro Cookie, Sticky Toffee Pudding Scone, Salty Butterscotch Chocolate Chip Cookie.
AVOID: Late arrivals are likely to miss out on some of the good stuff, as Baked Goods are made in small batches to assure freshness.
TIP: 7a-3p daily, Sunday with online delivery facilitated by Grubhub and Yelp!
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Still humming along nicely, the rushed conversion from ACE Donuts to Pinkbox Doughnuts’ third location filling a niche in the Southwest pre-pandemic, it was Friday morning that the space at Fort Apache and Tropicana was found gleaming, clever signage and a giant pink Pooh demanding selfies joining more than fifty styles of fried Dough lining shelves.
More and more social-media savvy over the years, with upward crawling prices and a collection that expands regularly via specials, this visit entailed three dozen “OG Classics.”
Using a clever naming scheme to re-brand many of Roberto Armanino’s originals, the Old Fashioned Cogwheels still Las Vegas’ best, additional choices included raised Bars and Rings, their flavors mostly as expected but now more pricey than other spots making equal or better such as Real Donuts, The Original Doughnut Bar or Friendly Donut House.
FOUR STARS: A fan of the staff and fried Dough at Pinkbox for nearly nine years there remains no place better for Ol’ Fashioned and artisan choices, but as prices have inched upwards the value for more basic forms of Bars or Raised Donuts has diminished.
RECOMMENDED: Ol’ Fashioned, Feelin’ Toasty.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Open 24/7, 10% off six and 20% discount on a dozen.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Chorizo and Soyrizo Stuffed Bell Peppers with Cheese
Bacon and Jalapeño Pinto Beans
Mexican Rice with Black Eyed Peas
Sautéed Butterflied Shrimp in Garlic Cilantro Butter
Roasted Chicken in Chipotle Cream Garlic Sauce
The S’mores Turnover
The Oatmeal Craisin Cookie
The Apple Cinnamon Turnover
The Chai Spice Cookie
The Raspberry Scone
The Peanut Butter Snickerdoodle
The Mocha Chip Muffin
The Mixed Berry Muffin
The Loving v Virginia Brookie
The Chocolate Chip Cookie
The Banana Flax Cake
The Loaded Carrot Cake
The Fruity Pebbles Treat
Always on the move, both the Restaurant’s physical location and their health-conscious Cuisine, it was for Catering that David and Peter Mozes were again called upon Wednesday, the owners of Bronze Café again offering to prepare a special menu instead of the usual delicious Salads and Sandwiches.
Located near Desert Shores in Summerlin, the former home of Beau Monde Bakery providing turnkey access for a Restaurant now offering Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, it was from Chef Mozes’ home recipes that Lunch consisted of several bowls and trays, Cucumber Salad making fast fans of those who opt to eat light while Mexican Rice shined thanks to Black Eyed Peas.
Complete with plates and utensils, Bronze Café’s Chipotle Chicken rich and juicy, Garlic Shrimp proved enjoyable while Beans and stuffed Peppers each featured a light but meaty mix with unexpected complexity in each bite.
Happy to receive a glut of Desserts, all Vegan and The Peanut Butter Snickerdoodle still Las Vegas’ best Cookie despite mounting competition, those missing Beau Monde’s gluten-free offerings will be happy to know the Banana Flax Cake is made without any Wheat protein, as too is a fully loaded Carrot Cake that has only gotten better with time.
Continuing strong with the cleverly titled Loving v Virginia, a Brookie that sees both halves nicely textured, Chai Spice Cookies remain soft and almost Cake-like while an all-new Oatmeal Craisin round updates an old favorite with a “buttery” crumb despite the lack of Butter, Milk or Eggs.
Rounding out the afternoon with Muffins, each soft and moist, others delighted in Fruity Pebbles Treats made with Vegan Marshmallows plus Raspberry Scones and two Turnovers – S’mores an old favorite but Apple Cinnamon even better.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, no matter where Chef Peter and David are set-up the quality has never declined, lunch on Thursday continuing to show quality and creativity bound to please those with and without dietary restrictions, whether they want to be gluttonous or eat light.
RECOMMENDED: Stuffed Bell Peppers, Roasted Chicken, The Peanut Butter Snickerdoodle, The Carrot Cake, The Loving v. Virginia, The Oatmeal Craisin Cookie, The Apple Cinnamon Turnover, The Raspberry Scone.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: 8a-8p daily at 2380 N Buffalo Drive, Suite 110. 702-852-2830. Online ordering via all the usual apps but catering best coordinated by contacting the Restaurant directly.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Opened in 2018, with Anima by EDO debuted January 7 2022, EDO Gastro Tapas & Wine remains Las Vegas’ most exciting Restaurant thanks to its unrivaled ability to look backwards while at the same time pushing boundaries rarely approached by off-Strip dining.
Inspired by Catalonian traditions, Chef Oscar Amador Edo’s upbringing in Barcelona gifting him with a respect for diverse Ingredients and an ability to craft poignant bites that highlight rather than hide them, it was as a party of four that guests were accommodated near the back, GM Roberto Liendo charged with creating a Menu Degustacion including both regularly offered items and nightly inspirations.
An acronym for “Extra Day Off,” though EDO itself is open from 5pm until 9pm daily, it was with most of the Restaurant’s other 32 seats full by 5:30 on Monday that things were underway quickly, a glass of Champagne pairing well with vibrant Gazpacho as well as creamy Hen Eggs topped with a quartet from Fish including Kaluga Caviar.
Seafood-centric early, two types of Oyster and plump Scallops in Tomato Water with Citrus following Swedish Roe atop Sea Urchin Custard, imported Anchovies find themselves idealized by compounded Butter with crispy Bread for texture.
Weaving traditional to modern in a manner not dissimilar from Jose Andres or even the Adria brothers, imported Charcuterie atop Puffed Bread lingering long after a single bite thanks to an aerated Cheese center, Caprese Cups and Potato Salad Bites completed a course of “Canapes” preceding EDO’s ever-evolving cured Salmon presentation.
Not about to skip “mille-feuille” Patatas Bravas, or EDO’s destination-worthy eighth-inch wide Bikini, Oscar’s Foie Gras Terrine leans to France by way of Beets and bitters while the off-menu Mussel Cannoli is unprecedented on either side of the Atlantic.
Testing some Anima plates along the way, not the first time, Celery Root Papillote was a bit overwhelmed by Rosemary preceding Ricotta Gnocchi with Caviar and perfectly-textured Spanish Octopus encircling complex Mussel Sauce.
Next dressing poached Lobster in piquant Beurre Blanc, even a Michelin-starred Chef raising his eyebrows at the diversity of tastes and textures, two additional Pastas received praise across the table with vegetal Gnochetti juxtaposing Spanish Sausage and Cocoa Ravioli joining Trotters to Porcinis.
All but stuffed at this point, with Strawberry Ice, tropical Fruit Carpaccio and Crema Catalana yet to come, the night’s final savory was a true surprise matching roasted Pheasant to Arroz a la Cazuela, Foie Gras, Artichokes and preserved Morels.
FIVE STARS: Three years since opening Chef Oscar Amador Edo continues to create bold and balanced plates both traditional and modern, while service led by Roberto Liendo provides a world-class experience on par with the best of Catalonia.
RECOMMENDED: Kaluga Caviar Eggs, 30 Day Dry-Aged Striploin Carpaccio, Patatas Bravas, Bikini, Foie Gras Terrine, Santona Anchovies Montadito, Mussel Cannoli, Noquis, Maine Lobster, Red Vein Sorrel Noquetti, Pheasant a la Catalana, Granita, Broken Egg Crema Catalana.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: 5:00p-9:00p daily. See Social Media for specials. Reservations available via Website, Yelp!, Phone or Opentable.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
salt & pepper tofu – green onions, cilantro, soy ginger dipping sauce
pan-fried pork dumplings – sweet soy, sriracha
spicy pork xlb
pork xlb
chicken xlb
With five Southern California locations, and two to come, dan modern chinese offers handmade Dumplings and Noodles amidst the sort of sterile environs that will make people originally from Wisconsin or Indiana feel more comfortable than traditional spots in the SGV.
Part of an upscale shopping complex in Pasadena, with prices to match, it was after a quick vaccination card check plus sanitizer that three guests were seated, 7:00pm on New Year’s Day entirely uncrowded even though many other Restaurants were closed.
Promising “the best quality Ingredients,” a kitchen behind glass visibly crafting items to-order, it was after moments deliberation that seven items were selected, Dan Mien with Chicken arriving first beneath glossy black Sauce and followed by Scallion Pancakes cut into strips that are about as flavorful as Matzah.
Not left waiting long for more, crispy cubes of Tofu soon ready to be dipped in fragrant Soy, Pan-seared Dumplings filled with Pork were mostly under-seasoned but well-constructed and served alongside sugared Sauce swirled with Sriracha.
Perfunctory in terms of service, the front-of-house generally gathered adjacent the kitchen chatting, Xiao Long Bao prove fresh, if not exemplary, the exterior a bit too thick and insides with more Soup than many which fares better by way of Pork (or a spicy version) than it does as Chicken.
Located just off the 405 in Inglewood is Randy’s Donuts, this year celebrating its 70th year slinging fried Dough under an iconic 32-foot sign 24/7, and now growing the name globally with 13 locations stretching to South Korea and Dubai – or in this case El Segundo.
Unimpressive in 2015 at the Original, though new outposts trend cleaner without the cash-only policy, Randy’s on Rosecrans has occupied its outdoor mall location since 2018, recipes reportedly unchanged since day one though premium toppings and savory items have been added.
Busy at 9:00am on January 1, Fritters and Buttermilk Bars unavailable, it was in exchange for $15.25 that seven Donuts were received, a celebratory Long John light beneath sweet Icing while a “Pink Raised Donut with Sprinkles” tasted precisely the same.
Recalling Cake Donuts greasy, Randy’s Blueberry not so bad but generally lacking in terms of Fruit, Maple Frosting featured abundantly, its taste artificial but pleasant a delicate Cruller and tangy Old Fashioned moreso than the pricy ring strewn with stale Churros.
Eaten side-by-side with Blue Star from Manhattan Beach, the former’s premium pricing universally yielding better Donuts in this case, Randy’s Butter Crumb Raised re-confirms that sticking to classics is the best bet as the combination of wispy Dough, light Glaze and fine Streusel is worth standing in line for.
First discovered in February of 2013, a trip to Portland that would end up featuring visits on three consecutive days to their lone location downtown, it can safely be said that Blue Star Donuts has grown tremendously, the brand now featuring eleven storefronts stretching from PDX Airport to Manhattan Beach California.
Known for organic Ingredients and an artisan approach, Owner/CEO Katie Poppe having gone on to win several awards for Blue Star and additional dining concepts, it was while wandering homes the Boulevard that the recently re-opened location took center stage, an 8:30am arrival finding several selections still warm to touch and service debatably hung-over yet pleasant.
Certainly not cheap, but justifying an average $4.25 per round with local sourcing and quality craftsmanship, it is easy to tell just by looking that Blue Star’s Brioche base is given adequate time to develop, and whether topped with Maple and Bacon or thick Ganache the crumb remains soft and springy with the faintest hint of Yeast.
Often Vegan-friendly, but leaving Gluten free options to other companies throughout the city, it is amongst several Cake Donuts that Blue Star continues to show well, one seasonal choice featuring Matcha with Citrus while Cinamon-Sugar brightens the and Poppy Seeds compliment the crumbly insides nicely.
Finishing strong with Chocolate, no artificial flavors or preservatives compromising Dark Chocolate made from scratch with 100% Natural Cocoa Powder, suffice it to say that Cayenne Pepper and Nibs create quite a pair while the Old Fashion infused with French Dark Chocolate is given added emphasis by fragrant Bergamot Tea Glaze.
After a year on “pause” 2021 was less structured than most. In many ways this was intentional, but otherwise it was adaptation. For someone whose life goals have frequently been about gaining perspective the opportunities came daily. At the office. At home. Underwater. In the air. After delays. Impromptu. With breakups. Through reconnection.
Someone once told me “You can’t expect people to live up to your standards, because if everyone did you wouldn’t be special.” I try to keep that in mind, but at the same time it benefits no one to accept less to their detriment. I applied both these thoughts to work, relationships and even dining. Perhaps it was a culling, or perhaps learning what “matters” after a year during which many of those things were limited.
In the last 12 months I managed to improve self and others. I learned invaluable lessons from both. I remained honest about my feelings and made them accessible to anyone affecting them. In the process a few friends were lost while other relationships grew stronger. I also frequented the same places at home more than ever, while continuing to explore, because I’ve earned the right to do what makes me happy and will never take that for granted.
What follows is a list of the most memorable meals and bites over the last 365-days, many of them literally “the best” while others may have shined brighter than they normally would have due to the circumstances. Thanks to all the Chefs, GMs and Servers involved and equally as much to those who I was fortunate enough to break Bread with. As with last year, only one item per Restaurant in each category.
4 ) La Villa Mahana – Mahi Mahi Curry et Banane – Mahi Mahi, Curry, Banana, Sweet Potato Puree, Mango Sauce
5 ) A Taberna da Rua das Flores – Conch, Sake, Herbs from Chef’s Garden
6 ) La Alcapurria Quemá – Crab Alcapurria
7 ) Cervejaria Ramiro – Spider Crab
8 ) Bone Kettle – Monte Cristo French Toast – Bacon, Turkey, Swiss Cheese, Cheddar Cheese, Ham, Strawberry Jelly, Maple Syrup
9 ) Restaurant l’O a la Bouche – Decadence of Foie Gras – Roasted with Figs and Banyuls, Terrine with Fig compote and Toasted Brioche, Duck Prosciutto, Macaron with Foie Parfait and Fig Gelee
Long considered one of Southern California’s top Chinese Restaurants, it was toward the end of 2018 that Sichuan Impression added a second location in Westwood, a larger footprint than the San Gabriel Valley original creating a celebratory atmosphere perfect for sharing a meal with friends.
Selected for New Year’s Eve 2021, no prix fixe and regular hours shortening wait times to just fifteen minutes, it was inside the second floor spot overlooking Santa Monica Boulevard that guests sat down to a digital menu, all the SGV flavors offered in addition to a few new items.
Closely packed during a pandemic, though Vaccine Cards are inspected in entry, it was with order placed that fifteen minutes passed, the arrival of Impressive Dumplings quickly igniting a slow burn furthered by Kung Pao Chicken on a bed of dry Chilis before diving into Tea Smoked Pork Ribs with aromatic Meat that falls from the Bone.
Populated largely by youthful Asians, though staff is mostly fluent in English, round two included hand-cut Noodles in an Egg-thickened Soup plus delicate Fried Rice and plump Wontons that numb the tongue without blowing out the palate.
Not spicy just to be “hot,” each dish balanced and poignant, “sweet” predictably takes on a different meaning in Sichuan Cuisine, here via crispy Glutenous Rice soaked in reduced Sugar with additional powdered Brown Sugar on top.
Begun in Los Angeles’ Arts District in 2011, the mother and son team of Becky Grasley and Matt Heffner now taking a backseat to CEO Sean Brennan as the band continues to grow, New Year’s Eve found business booming at The Pie Hole in Gelson’s Market just past 3:00pm.
Officially “The Pie Hole Artisan Bakery @ Gelson’s Market,” baking from scratch daily from open until close, it is amongst the usual trappings of an upscale grocery store that guests will find a well-stocked counter, including many items not offered elsewhere.
Available for take-out, delivery or dine-in, a small wine bar with televisions adjacent bottles of Champagne, it was skipping savories that a warm Turnover started things off with juicy Cherries inside Puff Pastry before moving on to Salted Caramel Pecan Pie that could have benefitted from more Nuts to offset an abundance of near-liquid Caramel.
$6.75 to 7.50 per slice, billed as “happiness one slice at a time,” Chocolate Brownie Pie eats a lot like Southern Chess with its decadence augmented by housemade Whipped Cream while a cheaper square of Birthday Cake is moist yet toothsome and expectedly quite sweet.
Mezze Maniche – Cacio e Pepe, Single Origin Pepper
Spicy Rigatoni – alla Vodka
Chocolate Pudding – Whipped Cream, Cocoa Crumble
Meyer Lemon Budino – Whipped Cream, Pie Crust Crumble
Shortened from ospitante, “host” in Italian, Ospi opened mid-pandemic in Venice, Jame Enoteca owners Melissa Saka and Jackson Kalb hoping to catch lightning in a bottle once again with Southern Italian cooking in the form of a casual beachside Trattoria.
Decidedly different from duo’s El Segundo hotspot, premium real estate and an expansive buildout a near-polar opposite to Jame’s close quarters in a stripmall, guests are invited to dine inside or out, vaccine cards checked before choosing a seat along the Restaurant’s rear wall.
Supporting exorbitant prices with High-quality ingredients, or perhaps using Felix as a yardstick for what Angelinos will accept, Lunchers will find a lengthy menu featuring Vegetables, Sandwiches, Pizza and Pasta, the former highlighted by Cauliflower in vibrant Sauce with bits of Seeds and Fruit adding complexity to each bite.
Honoring Rome’s Roscioli with Cracker-Crust Pizzas, Kalb’s technique yielding a sort of laminated texture that bends a bit before breaking, Vodka Sauce is exemplary both with gobs of Stracciatella and heavily applied to handmade Rigatoni better than one will find at Carbone.
$21 to $29 for three Pastas, before SoCal sales tax, 4% Employee Benefits and Tip, Mezze Maniche is Ospi’s heavy-handed attempt at Cacio e Pepe, the overall flavor decent but far less interesting than Raschiatelli with Spicy Meat Sauce, creamy Cheese and Breadcrumbs for contrast.
Reciting Desserts from memory, Cannoli and two Puddings not nearly so inspiring as Jame Enoteca’s Pie, Cake or Pavlova, Meyer Lemon Budino nonetheless channels Kalb’s signature sweet in terms of taste while Chocolate Pudding is stick-a-spoon-up-straight thick but not “heavy.”
Purporting “the finest Coffee, Food and Wine served in the least pretentious way” one might assume goodboybob has found a way to mitigate high prices and hire Baristas that work in customer service rather than condescension, but unfortunately the new Manhattan Beach outpost accomplishes neither.
Known for unique Beans roasted by goodboybob, everything from Mexico to South America and Africa available brewed or whole Bean by the bag on New Year’s Eve, it was in monotone with eye-rolls that unmarked Pastries were described before bagging, nearly $30 exchanged for four plus an admittedly complex Cup of Coffee before leaving.
Apparently a scratch Bakery, though in the case of this seatless location Pastries are likely brought in from Santa Monica or Culver City, first tastes came from a poorly-laminated Almond Berry Croissant, its $6 tab in no way supported by technique or ingredients while the $5.50 Cardamom Twist was overworked to the point of tough and not nearly so fragrant as those in Scandinavia.
Faring better with homestyle Goods, the Cookie soft at its center with a crisp rim and plenty of good Chocolate, those who can overlook goodboybob’s lousy service and exorbitant cost may want to stop by for a $6.00 Cinnamon Roll that offers a bubbly open crumb and plenty of Cinnamon-Brown Sugar to balance the tangy Frosting.
Macadamia Nut Pancakes, Butter, 100% Pure Maple Syrup
Not to be confused with a similarly named regional chain back East, Uncle Bill’s Pancake House has been serving South Bay residents since 1961, Bill McElroy’s sale to the VanAmburgh family in 1973 and a subsequent doubling in size doing little to stimy long waits on weekends for Diner Food done right.
At one time a house not far from Manhattan Beach, long before inflated real estate prices and tourism diminished the charm of a small town, it is at an outdoor podium that guests check-in and confirm vaccination status, the counter proving a great spot for solos on the final day of 2021.
Still with the sort of nostalgia rarely embraced in Southern California; Formica, tchotchkes and indoor Christmas lights surrounding a quick-service kitchen, it was after reviewing specials that an order was placed followed by perhaps ten minutes wait.
Busy indoors and out, the sunny patio packed with everything from young families to octogenarians, portions at Uncle Bill’s run far larger than the favorable price point, $3 for two freshly baked Muffins about 1/4 the cost of goodboybob across the street and eponymous griddled Batter with lots of Macadamia Nuts light, fluffy and deserving of the $2 surcharge for real Maple Syrup.
