Day-Old Bread Pudding & Chocolate Ganache, Pots of Gold and Rainbows, Waffle Cone
Chocolate Gooey Brownie
Arbequina Olive Oil
Strawberry Honey Balsamic with Black Pepper
Honey Lavender
Sea Salt with Caramel Ribbons
Salted Caramel & Okra Cupcakes
Familiar with Salt & Straw since a trip to Portland in 2013, three visits in a week plus four to follow in Los Angeles, Pasadena and Venice, it was with “fanboy” status admitted that the new location in the UnCommons was visited, this month’s “Upcycled Food Series” showing commitment to community and quality.
Still the West’s hippest place for a frozen treat the location opened Friday with ample nearby parking and friendly service inside the still developing space off the 215 and Durango.
Offering all the old favorites, plus fun specials such as “Day-Old Bread Pudding & Chocolate Ganache” or “Lemon Curd & Whey,” keep an eye out for remaining “Pots of Gold and Rainbows” that should most certainly be ordered on a freshly made Waffle Cone.
Already visited eight times since reopening under new ownership there is little doubt that The Palms is seeking to regain its title as Las Vegas’ best Off-Strip resort, a goal thus far successful in terms of dining thanks to Chef Marty Lopez, Tammy Alana and General Manager Jorge Pagani at Scotch 80 Prime.
Debuted late-Spring of 2018, stalwart N9NE Steakhouse making way for a room decorated in Basquiat and Haring, guests visiting Scotch 80 today will find much of the original aesthetic maintained minus paintings kept by past owners, the Bar still well-stocked with rare Whiskeys and service predictably impeccable.
Located at the resort’s east end with an entirely revamped menu, seasonal changes occurring alongside a Tasting Menu and Wagyu including A5 varieties straight from Japan, it was deferring Carte Blanche to the kitchen that Dinner began with Truffled Chips, Wagyu Carpaccio, Scallops beneath Uni plus Caviar and all-new Tuna Poke utilizing Kombu-cured Bluefin and Avocado dressed in Gochuchang.
Not forgetting delicate Milk Bread or Rainbow Tiradito nor creamy Fondue, the nightly Foie Gras special was omitted in favor of Bone Marrow with Beef Cheek Jam and Marty’s Hokkaido Snow Beef Burger now with Smoked Cheddar and seared Duck Liver.
Next up Crab Cakes without much filler, plus three Salads, it was en route to Chef’s Miso-glazed Chilean Sea Bass that guests were treated to a gold-flecked work in progress best described as Wagyu Empanadas, but so much more thanks to lightly-sweetened Laminated Pastry.
All-in for Beef, six ounces of A5 Kobe Beef Striploin from Hyogo Prefecture preceding a hulking Tomahawk, Aussie Wagyu and a Creekstone Farms’ Rib Cap, Scotch 80’s Sides all deserve attention whether French Fries, Forest Mushrooms, Creamed Corn or Famous Hash Browns.
Torn between saving room for Dessert or sampling all six Sauces on additional bites of Steak the decision to do both proved fortuitous, Marty’s Bordelaise made the right way as good as anything one might find in Paris before delving into Pastry Chef Tammy Alana’s delicate new Luxardo Cheesecake and world-class Creme Brulee.
Getting fancy for the #gram with Fireball S’mores, flaming Liquor poured tableside revealing Warm Chocolate Cake, Tammy’s Candy Bar riffs on Snickers via Salted Caramel and Pralines while the dish unveiled in a swirl of smoke now features a Peach Brandy Tart topped Cookies filled with Cream.
As the eldest occupant of Global West Plaza and the oldest Persian Restaurant In Las Vegas Zaytoon is more easily overlooked than many local eateries, but using the same recipes for decades the space on Durango is a breath of fresh air in a time when authenticity is often lacking.
Family owned and the combination of eatery plus market, the later featuring imported goods as well as groceries, plates come from a kitchen steeped in tradition such that everything from Lavash to several styles of Baklava are made on-site daily.
Muslim owned and Halal-certified, a name that translates as Olive seemingly appropriate for peaceful confines, guests can expect Kabobs served at a fair price though the real highlights come from Stews such as Fesenjaan that is complex but not overly sweet like many.
Friendly in terms of service, the owner touching tables full of regulars, Appetizers range from Spreads to daily-specials paving the way for spoon-tender Lamb Shanks or the Koobideh “Sushi Roll” that tastes great regardless of its name.
Not about to pass on Dessert after several helpings of Rice, Zereshk Polow with Barberries assertively cleansing the palate, Halva comes in several flavors with Pistachio popular for a reason while sugary Pastries compete for the spotlight with Ice Cream and Falloudeh.
Home to a rapidly expanding population with some 40,000,000+ yearly visitors it stands to reason that hundreds of millions of folks have tasted Carl’s Donuts since 1966, yet it was not until April 2018 that the supplier of untold numbers of Coffee Shops and Convenience Stores finally re-entered the retail arena with a store on East Sunset.
Last available direct-to-consumer over two decades prior, various middle-men including everything from Casinos to spots like Grouchy John’s offering Carl Sanders’ Pastries in the intervening years, 2023 finds Carl’s now fueled by #influencers and like-for-like promotions despite products that lag far behind local competition.
Officially addressed 3170 East Sunset Road, close to Wayne Newton’s Casa de Shenandoah, it is across several cases that Carl’s offers “Top Shelf,” “Classic” and “Fancy” flavors plus poorly-laminated Croissants and Danishes.
Me-too more than innovative, the “seasonal” menu featuring Ube Croissants and artificially-flavored “Strawberry” Shortcake, Carl’s Fritters are smaller and greasier than Friendly or Pink Box and more comparable to Winchell’s or Krispy Kreme.
Built for volume and better with classics like a Cinnamon Roll, though the version resembling a Persian with Granulated Sugar atop Cream Cheese is frankly awful, Lotus Cookies top “Gingerbread Cookie Butter” to upgrade a bland Cake base leaving only Heath Bar Crunch and a basic Boston Creme Bismarck as reasons to stop by if in the area.
Risen like a phoenix from the ashes of Ramir Bolanos DeCastro’s beloved Purple Potato it is as a Bakery that the former Yonaka Chef’s legacy lives on via Donuts, Cookies, Ube-based treats and Filipino Pastries.
Previously offered for delivery or takeout only, but now brick and mortar at 6370 W Flamingo Rd #20, it was Thursday that eight items were procured for tasting, savories skipped in favor of recently-added Ring Brioche Donuts including real Madagascar Vanilla, Matcha Crumble and Jackfruit Banana with Turon and a hint of Espresso.
Never actually gone from the local food scene, the rebranding of Yonaka and Purple Potato followed by a consulting gig at McCarran, Chef DeCastro’s current lineup continues with Croissant and Polvoron Bismarck Donuts, this day featuring a dozen varieties ranging from “Matchamisu” to Ube and Leche Flan covered with crumbles or torched Sugar.
Also selling Brownies and Monkey Bread, the later topped in Cream Cheese Frosting plus Dark Chocolate, fans of Coconut should head straight for lavish Young Coconut Pie while new additions including Basque-style Cheesecake and Salted Milo Pie are also built to please.
Now with some time to get acquainted, a “Grand Opening” making official what fans have already come to know, Chef Francesco Di Caudo’s Basilico Ristorante Italiano at Evora finds the native of Italy looking to add much needed modernity to Las Vegas’ Italian dining scene.
Originally encountered at Ferraro’s in 2015, contemporary ideas better suited to sophisticated palates carried over to Anima and then Di Caudo’s first solo project, it is amidst upscale décor that diners are invited to relax on comfortable red chairs with stone, wood and Wine bottles adding elegance.
Fusing inside to patio through the bar, Cocktails built on Italian Spirits offered alongside regional Wines, service is convivial but polished while describing a menu featuring housemade Pasta, Pizza and the sort of starters prone to wow such as composed Oysters and a dainty Duck Tart.
More classic in terms of Pizza, the Tartufo following classic Gnocco Fritto, Dashi Braised Octopus shows Francesco’s willingness to explore flavors outside his motherland with precision; as does a dynamic combination of Uni, Bone Marrow and Chamomile Ice Cream.
Priced appropriate to what is offered, handmade Ravioli with Manilla Clams and Bottarga quite unlike anything else offered in Las Vegas today, Basilico’s duo of Duck works as well in the mouth as on Instagram whether creamy “Foiemisu” or the “Duck Cigar” unveiled in a puff of smoke.
Continuing with Ricotta Gnocchi in a medley of Lobster, Mushrooms Corn – no two bites the same – Beet Risotto looks like something one might find at Osteria Francescana with perfectly cooked Rice and Currants beneath a Langoustine veil.
Showing off an excellent piece of Branzino next, Citrus Sauce assertive yet not masking the Fish, it was with bellies already full that Di Caudo dropped dropped fried Veal stuffed with Ham and Cheese, and although Modern Italian will always be a polarizing subject there is no denying the meteor-shaped Exotic Fruit Pavlova and Liquid Nitrogen tableside Parmigiano Gelato each outpace “same ol-same ol” Tiramisu or Cheesecake.
Unquestionably Las Vegas’ top choice for French Pastry over the past 7+ years Rosallie Le French Café continues to show well on-site or to-go, a Tuesday morning delivery finding Pastries carefully arranged with several still warm and both the Almond Croissant as well as it’s bretheren still the best in town.
Csörögefánk, Rose Hips Sorbet, Linden Blossom Foam, Apricot Jam
Dark Chocolate Choux, Hazelnut Cream / Macaron, Rose Cream, Red Currant Jam
Located near the Basilica and a lively weekend festival Borkonyha from Chef Ákos Sárközi is an unassuming Michelin-starred eatery focused on local Wines and Ingredients, each plate more than its name suggests thanks to a skilled hand and ample use of Offal.
Home to over two-hundred Hungarian Wine labels, a dry sparkler suggested by Wine Director Krisztián Juhász well-suited to an Amuse of Kohlrabi and Salmon Roe plus a plate of sliced Pig’s Ears and Trotters with Caviar, it is no surprise Borkonyha bakes Bread in-house though the use of Squid Ink is.
A la carte or Tasting menu, global influences overlying traditional Hungarian dishes, Sárközi’s Veal Paprikash comes fortified by off-cuts including Sweetbreads with crispy Skin adding texture while Dessert offers Fried Dough intended to be dipped in fragrant Jam and Foam beneath a quenelle of Sorbet.
Although Donuts can be found by various names throughout Budapest only The Box can lay claim to all-natural squared Dough, prices considered “expensive” by Hungarian standards averaging far cheaper than spots across America or Europe using inferior Ingredients.
Free of additives or preservatives, each Donut hand-cut and fried in Peanut Oil, it is at roughly $2.50USD each that flavor come across pure, Lemon Curd and Raspberry tart yet nicely balanced by Raspberry Cream plus textural elements on top.
Advertising the use of 100% Callebaut Chocolate, though this was skipped over for Peanut Butter Banana plus a Lotus Donut topped and filled with Biscoff, the best of four proved to be Pistachio Strawberry thanks to the use of housemade Jam, nutty Frosting and dehydrated Fruit mingling with crumbled Pistachios added last.
Whether Daubner Confectionery is the best Bakery in Budapest can be debated, but there’s no denying it is the most popular, its location outside the tourist corridor doing nothing to shorten lines that require multiple registers but still require a wait of 20+ minutes.
Located in Szépvölgyi út with over one-hundred years of experience Daubner is where locals go to buy Cakes and Pastries for events such as Birthdays, the Dobos stacked with thick Chocolate in layers beneath a crunchy Caramel shingle.
Also offering oversized Kifli, both Walnut and Poppyseed flawless in terms of taste and texture, those seeking something lighter will find Malnas Omlett to their liking while the Esterhazy Torta carefully balances sweet Cream with Walnut Cake.
Not forgetting Somlói, prepared the old fashioned way and all the better for it, Daubner’s Krémes is sold as Hazi Sima Szelet with Chantilly and Vanilla Cream subtly sugared between alternating Puff Pastry layers.
Begun in Damascus the story of Ghraoui dates to 1805, and since a trip to France in 1931 the family’s name has been involved with top quality Chocolates plus gracious customer service in stores across the Middle East and Europe.
Known for candied Fruits further back, but later affected by political turmoil, Ghraoui in modern times is owned and operated by Bassam S. Ghraoui whose vision has guided expansion to Budapest where his flagship store deals in elegant Bon Bons plus Truffles, Candy and Pate de Fruits.
Priced well compared to competitors, hearts in varying degrees of darkness set next to Chocolates filled with Fruit, best-sellers include Ghouta and Apricots filled with Pistachio plus tablets topped in dried Currants.
From Chef Renátó Kovács HILDA is an upscale eatery filled with stained glass mosaics and Zsolnay ceramic tiles, a focus on local and sustainable ingredients looking forward though the techniques involved are rooted in classic training.
Previously at Fáma with Krisztián Huszár, but fully in charge at HILDA, Kovács seeks to fuse French Bistronomy with Hungarian recipes across a menu that is concise and smart with big flavors including some of the city’s best Goulash with Bread to sop up every drop.
Located downtown, plenty of foot traffic finding time for local Wines including several styles of Tokaj, additional highlights include lightly-sweetened Paprika Popcorn and decadent Mangalica Pork Meatloaf, but for those seeking something really special the crisp-skinned Rotisserie Chicken with Paprikash Gravy and herbal aromatics should not be missed.
Considered pricey by Hungarian standards Vaj is an all-day Cafe on József Körút best-known for elegant Viennoiserie, Pizza, Sandwiches and youthful exuberance in a city where old traditions frequently dominate.
Translated as “Butter,” a lengthy space with window-side tables frequently filled with twenty-somethings, it is upon entry that guests will notice cases filled with shiny Dough including common items such as Pain au Chocolat alongside loaded Laminated Pastry.
Instagram worthy but well-crafted, old Croissants used to produce Bread Pudding in a variety of flavors ranging from Caramel to Raspberry with Pistachios, diners make selections in line where they are given a number to pay later, the Apricot Cottage Cheese bundle outperforming classic Turos Batyu while a Vanilla Poppyseed Bun unravels sweet yet savory with diverse textures.
Bilingual and gracious, each employee offering a smile, the aforementioned finds itself outpaced by the Croissants themselves and whether one chooses Pistachio Apple or Red Currant Almond it is surprising to see how well the Dough itself stands up to being topped and filled.
Serving the Hungarian capitol since 1957 Nándori Cukrászda maintains a less grand feel than the likes of Gerbeaud, but for those seeking one of Budapest’s best Krémes the Cafe just two blocks from the Danube offers indoor and outdoor seating plus good Coffee and friendly staff.
Popular with locals and limited in spoken English Nándori offers the full array of Cakes including top-tier Esterhazy and Dobos, but for those seeking something truly special squares of Meggyes Reyes come loaded with Cherries and Almonds while their Cremeschnitte eats particularly light with dividing layers of Puff Pastry.
Opened in 2019 SALT is considered by many to be Budapest’s best Restaurant, its location in a boutique hotel called RUM featuring warm wood tones surrounding an open kitchen with most plates finished at a pass in front.
Led by Chef Szilárd Tóth and Manager Máté Boldizsár with service comparable to the world’s best, many dishes telling a tale of Hungarian heritage, SALT relies on ideas akin to “new Nordic” fare with foraging and fermentation at the forefront while Beverages look to local or natural Wines plus Juices made to pair.
A “story-teller’s” tasting, fifteen courses plus additions on both ends delivered at an appropriate pace, it is with Kombucha that guests are invited to taste a bundle of Herbs dragged through Carp Milt plus Celeriac and Fish in a Tuile before moving on to blanched White Asparagus lent acidity by a Dip of Nettles and Ants.
Plated Scandinavian but distinctly Hungarian in terms of terroir, one-bite “Greasy bread” hearty but balanced with Eel instead of Jowl Bacon, Cauliflower comes charred next to Walnut Cream that leads well into Cheese topped with micro-planed Pork Heart.
Contemporary with roots in local ingredients and rural dishes, the casual environment adding to the sense of dining at a friend’s house, Tóth’s “Chicken of the Woods Mushroom” comes in aromatic Corn Miso prior to a refreshing “Gin & Tonic” Bite composed in the kitchen.
Choosing another Juice going forward, Lime and Strawberry accented by Bay Leaf holding up to Soup and Bread made for dipping, a second plate in the same vein references a peasant dish from Pécs rethought with Foie Gras and Duck Heart in hearty Broth.
Pumping the breaks with raw local Trout in an ice bowl, acidic like Aguachiles but lacking Chiles, Potatoes in Duck Fat proves to be an elegant setup for sticky Pork Ribs intended to be eaten as a Lettuce Wrap topped in fermented foraged Greens.
Outpacing the single Michelin Star received in 2021, a Cheese course adjacent Chestnut Honey and Pine transitioning to sweet, SALT’s Rice Pudding with Chamomile is an exercise in restraint that fully engages the palate before finishing with floral Matcha and a quartet of Petit Four.
Located in the limited-access streets surrounding Buda Castle Ruszwurm Cukrászda is the oldest existing Pastry shop in Budapest, its opening in 1827 by Ferenc Schwabl followed by transfer to Vilmos Ruszwurm and later Ferenc Tóth before a nationalized period during the Communist era.
Always a Confectionery with a historic menu, the “Krémes” particularly famous inside a wood-paneled space, it is mostly tourists that currently fill a patio overlooking Matthias Church while enjoying Cake slices including Caramel-shingled Dobos and Esterhazy Torte.
Also offering Fruit Strudel, Sour Cherry recommended by a friendly server, Pastry fares well both here and wrapped around Cottage Cheese as Turos Batyu while the eponymous Linzer blissfully pairs Raspberry Preserves to Dark Chocolate.
Opened in December of 2021 Szaletly has already established itself as one of Budapest’s most ambitious eateries, a location near City Park assuring a lack of tourists despite Chef Dániel Bernát’s goal of serving traditional Hungarian cuisine made from only the best Ingredients.
Smartly appointed on Stefánia út with inside and outdoor seating, each photogenic with the former featuring high ceilings plus an open kitchen, guests are greeted by pleasant servers that prove both well-informed and bilingual.
Offering local Wines and a small market including housemade Jams, all while tapping local purveyors for everything from Pork to Produce, Goulash comes in Appetizer or Entree portions with glistening drops of Fat atop complex Broth while Hortobagy Strudel rethinks Palacsinta by stuffing the Crepe with Chicken in silky Sauce.
Rustic yet refined in terms of plating, indulgent Mangalica Knuckles seared crisp with a creamy center alongside plops of Sour Cream, guests should not overlook laminated Potatoes with Sausage and an Egg nor Paprikash with tiny Egg Noodles and lots of depth.
Not a place to forgo Dessert, an Iced Americano at its side, Poppyseed Dumplings come soaked with Butter and dollops of Vanilla Custard while Somlói sees the classic Parfait no less splendid than the one served at Michelin 2-starred Stand.
With two locations in Budapest plus something of a mirror in Campbell River Canada Freyja takes its name from an old Norse goddess, and in subtitling itself “- the croissant story” offers an #instagram friendly venue for indulging in laminated Pastries at prices akin to what one might spend in Scandinavian.
All clean-lines and hip service, a bilingual duo behind the counter suggesting boxes cost extra before placing selections in bags, guests can expect to pay roughly $5USD per Viennoiserie whether classic like the sliced Almond Croissant with medium-sweet filling or a tall-and-proud Cruffin matching Berries to whipped White Chocolate.
The sort of place where diners tend to linger over Coffee, an upscale and quiet clientele enjoying pleasant weather on the patio, it is said each Croissant contains 27-layers whether Pistachio-filled or half-dipped in Chocolate and covered with flaked Coconut, though the best item is actually a butter-soaked coil with fragrant Glaze and Pomegranate Arils on top.
Tucked away on Apáczai Csere János without much signage Jacques Liszt features the work of Mihály Juhász, a former attorney who turned to baking in 2012 and has since made a name for himself with Sourdough Loaves and Pastries.
Not near any major tourist destination, a lack of fluency beyond Hungarian expected, those familiar with traditional Pastries will be glad to find Turos Batyu and Tonkoly Szilvalekvaros Papucs each executed well while Viennoiserie such as Chocolate Snails and filled Croissants are just average.
Lightly salted White Chocolate, Pine, Strawberry Granita
Somlói
Petit Four
Currently Budapest’s most awarded Restaurant Stand is a lesson in finesse, from founding-Chef Tamás Széll’s 2016 Bocuse d’Or gold to Sous Chef Bence Dalnoki’s silver in 2022 and bronze in 2023 one will rarely find Food plated so beautifully while flavors are robust yet balanced.
Modern but rooted in tradition, a central kitchen wrapped in glass the starting point for a tasting menu that spans sixteen items from Canapes to Petit Fours, guests are presented with choices from a formal yet friendly staff that proves well-informed and multi-lingual.
Vibrant in atmosphere, Cocktails and a lengthy list of Wines offered, opening bites are delicate works of art ranging from a gold Sunchoke Chip to bite-size Lángos surrounding layered Parsnip Soup.
Proudly Hungarian but technique-focused, the Bread Basket showing off five styles alongside housemade Butter and Liptauer, one need only look at “Cucumber filled with White Asparagus” to understand the kitchen’s talent as each curl comes carefully filled in a spring-scented pool beneath a dainty Tart.
A slow-build served to accommodate the table’s pace, Peas and sparkling Pine Nuts again seeing Asparagus utilized with expertise, Chef Dalnoki’s Foie Gras is a study in taste and texture while his Bocuse-clinching Sterlet Fillet reminisces of something served at Geranium or Jordnær.
Next reinventing tradition with Széll’s version of Gulyás, a ubiquitous dish here focused on each Ingredient, Venison concludes savories with smoke and sweetness before a palate cleansing plate of Strawberry Ice with Mint atop White Chocolate.
Certainly worthy of it’s 2* from Michelin, a third justifiable based on the strength of this seasonal tasting, Dessert offers a choice from which Somlói achieves unprecedented refinement before concluding with five more sweet bites.
