Although there appears to be no less than a hundred Bakeries in Frankfurt Am Main, some of them with multiple outlets, Liebesbrot is one of the few offering service early on Sunday and an arrival minutes after 7:00am found several products still warm with the west side Café doing good business without being overly busy.
Independently owned at Mendelssohnstrasse 60, the staff charming and bilingual save for a Baker who seemed all business inside the small kitchen, it was after some indecision that the choice was made to invest half-savory and half-sweet, a Double Espresso to accompany six items and the tally just under eighteen Euros.
Charming on the interior as well as an outside patio, flowers hanging from trees adding a splash of color to otherwise monochrome environs, it was beginning with a Pretzel straight from the kitchen that tasting was underway, the soft pull beneath tanned skin arguably the best tasted across nine days while Nut Bread offered toasty notes and textural heterogeneity from bite to bite.
Sampling spongy Brioche next, occasional Raisins helping to transition the palate sweet, those unfamiliar with Germany’s use of Marzipan will likely find most Almond Croissants in Frankfurt too sugary regardless of baking quality and should instead stick to “Nougatbrezel” incorporating a bit of bitterness from Dark Chocolate, though Liebesbrot’s best bites came from tangy Rhabarberkuchen featuring a razor sharp crust plus Icing and Streusel on top.
Lucila’s Homemade Alfajores – Traditional Dulce de Leche, Coconut
Lucila’s Homemade Alfajores – Dulce de Leche, Guava
Whether one loves Rick Bayless or not it is impossible to question his commitment to quality, and at ORD Tortas Frontera offers not only organic handmade Food, but prices that seem very fair considering both venue and product.
Originally opened at Terminal 1 in 2011, other wings of the Airport subsequently gifted their own as a result of resounding praise, it was in transit from Las Vegas to Frankfurt that the Restaurant at gate B11 was found busy, though much like the Food served expediting is better than most with wait-times typically less than ten minutes.
Focused on portable fare produced on-site, Bread from Bayless’ own recipes and Lucila’s Homemade Alfajores the only things brought in while Meats are roasted on site and Guacamole mashed by hand several times daily, it was after perusing choices that an order tallying around $50 was placed, seats taken at a table flanked by James Beard Foundation awards and a sizable painting.
Watching bartenders hand-craft Margaritas while waiting, a call of “number 68” from the counter quickly filling a two-top, it was with crisp Tortillas that dining began, two types of Salsa each vibrant but not hot whether applied to the Chips or daily-special Avocado “Toast” topped generously with Garlic and Bacon.
Moving next to menu items, though unable to resist a taste of Dulce de Leche and Guava between crumbly Cookies while waiting, one would be hard-pressed to name a better “Fried Chicken Sandwich” than Frontera’s at any airport in America, the thinly pounded Breast juicy but not heavy while Condiments all worked in harmony to produce a bold flavor greater than the sum of its parts.
Further tempted by Molletes – think open-face Sandwich that eats something like French Bread Pizza – it was thanks to smoked Pork Loin and Fig Jam that $7 proved an absolute steal for something so well-crafted while Lucila Giagrande’s $3 classic Alfajore made in the Windy City rivaled any found in Peru despite being baked days prior and sold in a package.
Hickoryburger – House Sauce, Mayonnaise, Pickles, Lettuce, Tillamook Cheddar Cheese
Pecan Pie
Apple Pie
Opened at 10801 West Pico Boulevard in the early 20th century, and under the “same ownership and management since April 11, 1947,” it was an odd set of circumstances that saw The Apple Pan serve two unexpected guests on Friday, yet despite a tumultuous twelve hours the persistently-packed diner managed to brighten spirits with fairly priced food and good service.
Built on legendary Burgers and a staff that has called The Apple Pan home for longer than many guests have been old enough to chew, it is from parking behind the building that diners enter to find a U-shaped counter, all two-dozen seats filled with at least ten folks waiting and limited time necessitating a to-go order.
Free of gimmicks, a well-culled menu of Sandwiches, Fries, Pies and Drinks offered from 11:00am until midnight or later on ever day but Monday, it was in exchange for $33.80 Cash that three bags were presented, everything prepared and packaged with care by a Hispanic gentleman who moved with efficiency.
In-and-out in fifteen minutes, time to soak in the nostalgia unavailable, it was atop newspaper boxes outside that dining took place, hand-cut Spuds impressively crisp beneath an 85-cent slice of melted Cheese and the Hickoryburger juicy with a fine grind plus plenty of smoke that plays well off thick Iceberg Lettuce, Pickles and House Sauce that is like Ketchup with added spices.
Remarkable without marketing, signage dating back decades, it is going back even farther that recipes for The Apple Pan’s Pies are dated, the eponymous Fruit less sweet than most even after adding a sidecar of cooking liquid while toasted Pecans on a bed of Georgia-style Jam offer good balance to Corn Syrup, Brown Sugar and Butter.
Ears – Crispy Pig’s Ears, Cilantro, Lime, Sea Salt
Burger – Parker House Roll, 10oz Beef Patty, Smoked Gouda Cheese, House Ketchup, Avocado Crème, Caramelized Onions, Bacon Jam with Duck Fat Fries and Habanero Garlic Pickles
Pasta – Wild Boar, San Marzano Tomatoes, Strozzapreti, Ricotta Cheese
Rocky Road Bread Pudding – Chocolate Croissants, Milk Chocolate, White Chocolate, Burnt Marshmallow, Chocolate Gelato / Cookies and Milk – Warm Chocolate Chip Cookies, Milk
Quietly surpassing four years serving Las Vegas in March, a 2018 transfer from Brian Malarkey to Hakkasan Group leaving the space mostly unchanged save for some menu adjustments, it was Sunday evening that Searsucker was found busy mere moments after opening.
Themed as a place to “Come Early, Stay Late,” its location inside Caesars’ Palace just steps from Omnia originally intended to catch club-goers both coming and going, modern times instead have seen the Restaurant serving “New American Classics” take a more serious turn, the Drinks less frou-frou and Food more focused on Meats, Sides and Salads.
Popular for both Sports fans and guests pre-revelry, a plethora of televisions on this night showing NBA Playoff action in an environment far more welcoming than Caesars’ Sports Book, it was after greetings at the hostess stand that two diners were led to a table near the kitchen, service proving competent yet rushed over the course of two hours.
Still bearing all the original design elements, even a hallway of relics selected by Malarkey en route to the restroom identical from a visit one month after opening, it was on-request that the 5:00p-7:00p menu typically offered at Searsucker’s Bar was presented, Dinner starting off with Pig Skins only available during Happy Hour at approximately $1 each with a thick yet crispy consistency and bold spicing with or without Chef’s Vinegar.
Moving next to a pair of Buffalo Chicken Sliders offered at $4 a piece, these too only available early at a counter which was already two-deep, both spicy Sandwiches were fine but largely inconsequential in comparison to housemade Pickles or bargain-priced Bone Marrow with accompanying Toast for spreading and dazzling Chili Glaze.
Unapologetically targeting a wide audience, Raw Plates including $4 Oysters (that are half-off early) passed over in favor of fragrant housemade Hummus, suffice it to say that Searsucker continues to impress with off-cuts in the form of sliced Pig’s Ears tinged in Citrus while the limited-edition Burger is worth every penny of its $24 tab thanks to a rich grind topped with plenty of smoked Cheese, mashed Avocado and Bacon Jam.
Equally happy with hand-cut Potatoes double-fried in Duck Fat, the housemade Bun also not lacking in effort or excellence, those seeking something sharable will be happy to know that in addition to Steaks ranging 8oz to two-pounds there is Lobster, Chicken and hand-made Strozzapreti served beneath a generous amount of Wild Boar Ragu.
Scaling back Sweets from day one, only four choices including Ice Cream and Cheesecake currently offered, it is fortunate that what is served ranks amongst the best city-wide in its genre – Bread Pudding made from Croissants steamy and rich beneath Burning Marshmallows while four Chocolate Chip Cookies served warm are bound to make a mess that most will be happy to lick off their fingers.
FOUR STARS: Although Searsucker’s original ownership fumbled the opening by not delivering on promises of items such as Rabbit and Duck to pair with Offal everyone knew would not last, four years of experience have seen the restaurant better find its purpose as an American eatery serving bold and well-developed plates with appeal to a broad demographic.
RECOMMENDED: Homemade Pig Skin Chicharrones, Bone Marrow, Ears, Burger, Rocky Road Bread Pudding, Cookies and Milk.
AVOID: With Bone Marrow heavily discounted at Happy Hour, Pig Skins not offered past 7:00pm and only twenty Burgers available daily a late-arrival is ill-advised.
TIP: According to Chris Conlon, Hakkasan’s Corporate Chef, Jessica Perlstein will be coming over to Searsucker from Stack starting May 23rd.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Opened early April of 2019, but a known entity near San Diego for forty years, The Broken Yolk Café promised to capture Las Vegas’ attention by offering “high quality, homemade Food in large portions,” and a visit on Sunday showed the locally-owned space already very successful with a thirty-five minute wait despite windy weather at 11:00am.
An expanding concept with over thirty locations across six states, Sin City’s first adjacent Total Wine at Town Square, it is after securing parking that guests approach a freshly built space capable of seating hundreds, though for a Restaurant so new and busy service is outstanding from the General Manager manning a digital waitlist to servers, bussers and even folks at the hostess stand.
Made (more) famous by an appearance on “Man vs Food,” a twelve-Egg Omelet weighing in at nearly 4,000 calories earning a free T-shirt and comped check for those who finish under an hour, it is from a five page menu that those desiring more variety are invited to make choices, a full-bar offered from open to close daily also provided to tempt those who desire more than just Mimosas and Bloody Marys.
Priced competitive to Cracked Egg or Babystacks, and approximately half the cost of other Las Vegas Boulevard Breakfasts, it was with bottomless Coffee and Cocktails ranging $8-10 each that things got underway, “Suit & Thai” proving a bit bitter but certainly not lacking for Booze while “Chai Little One” and “Pucker Up Strawberry Lemonade” each acted as light sippers that compliment The Broken Yolk Café’s fare nicely.
Opting to dine across three-courses, though in reality a check-average of approximately $18 will leave most over-sated, first bites came from extra-large Biscuits made from scratch with Butter, a gentle yeastiness amidst good rise attesting to quality with or without added Honey while Onion Rings and Hash Browns each cook up crispy as sides to a generous Fiesta Burrito smothered in Salsa and Sopes Benedict with Masa boats filled by seasoned Beef, carefully poached Eggs, housemade Ranchero Sauce and Avocado.
Focusing on items marked as “BYC Favorites,” many of these recipes dating back four decades, it was after splitting a warm Blueberry Muffin that attention turned to a Belgian Waffle halved and stacked around Bacon, Egg and Cheese, a touch of Real Maple Syrup from home pushing flavor even further while a $10.95 Acai Bowl takes the “Superfood” in a new direction by offering it as tangy Sorbet surrounded by Fresh Berries, Coconut and Granola.
Not about to pass on French Toast and Pancakes, the latter offered solo or stacked in seven varieties including Gluten Free, those unafraid to indulge are highly encouraged to order swirled Cinna-Cakes drizzled with Vanilla Icing, and although “Crunchy French Toast” looks better on the menu than it does as plated the flavor is still excellent – though not quite on the level of Tiki Toast that perfectly suit’s “The Ninth Island” with thick slices of Hawaiian Bread, Berries and Caramel Sauce.
FOUR STARS: Although Henderson continues to show-up the West side in terms of Breakfast and Brunch, The Broken Yolk Cafe’s recent arrival at Town Square gives those who don’t like to cross The Strip something to be excited about. Imported from San Diego, but locally owned, consider this a great alternative to Egg & I or Cracked Egg with more creativity and better service at a similar price-point.
AVOID: Fake Maple Syrup is a necessity at this price point, but Smucker’s Jelly is not, and alternatives to both should be offered even if at an extra cost. Home Fries were also undercooked.
TIP: Open 6am until 3pm at the southern edge of Town Square. Expect a wait during peak times or call ahead to put names on the waitlist and receive a text when the table is ready.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
In a city with no shortage of “destination” Restaurants it is assured that some will go overlooked, and with both Jean Georges Steakhouse as well as BARDOT Brasserie occupying Aria’s second floor Herringbone has had to endure the struggle since opening, though those who’ve had the opportunity to dine there almost universally sing its praises.
Originally created by Brian Malarkey in late-2015, a hasty transfer to Hakkasan Group shortly thereafter making the “Land. Meats. Sea.” concept an outlier inside a property owned by MGM Resorts International, it was recently announced that at the end of May Herringbone will be brought under control of the company, and with a new Spring menu recently launched now is as good a time as ever to visit.
Then and now one of Las Vegas’ most breezy environments, a dining room that continues outside rarely loud despite half of its walls being fabric, it is from a hostess stand that guests are led to the space toqued by Chef Marty Red DeLeon Lopez and colleague Nyko Christian, a focus on Ingredient quality including some of the region’s top farms and fisherman always guaranteeing something fresh while Marty’s Filipino heritage frequently emerges to build flavor profiles The Strip has rarely seen.
Anchored by great service led by Ceferin Oliva and Doug Solomon, two sharp-dressed men overseeing a staff that has seen less turnover than most, it is with sports playing on television and music overhead that guests are invited to select items from six sections, the “Salt & Brine Raw Bar” popular for good reason though this meal instead got started with a combination of Cocktails plus “Greens” and “Cold Fare.”
Focusing on seasonal plates, Chef Lopez’s Tiradito on this occasion offering Amberjack bathed in Citrus and Peppers with added brightness from blossoming Herbs, it was alongside this that locally-grown Vegetables from Desert Bloom Eco Farm shined amidst Hummus, imported Prosciutto served in two textures atop compressed Melon and Burrata also impressive though Herringbone’s recently changed Lobster & Hearts of Palm Salad managed to wrestle away the spotlight thanks to its base of pureed Salsify Root with savory qualities that play well off sweet Meat and Grapefruit.
Onward to “Hot Fare,” sliced Pork Belly painted by Black Garlic Adobo plus fried Shrimp along with their edible Shells and vibrant Dipping Sauce both examples of Marty’s ability to showcase ingredients amidst bold flavors, it may come as a surprise to some that Herringbone’s best dish this season is a riff on “Hot Chicken” with Asian inklings, the half-Bird from Mary’s Organic first brined 72-hours before being rolled in Oil with mixed Chilis and emerging crispy yet light alongside Pickles made on-site that go well beyond Dill.
Treating Soft Shell Crab to the same Rice Flour coating as Chicken, the results near-equal as Flesh and Carapace are carefully matched to Pomegranate Arils plus seasonal Vegetables, those favoring Red Meat will be happy to know that Steaks are offered in three sizes, though for the more adventurous Cattle is better tasted as Beef Carpaccio steered East by Fish Sauce or a reprise from Marty’s past in the form of Smoked Bone Marrow topped in shredded Short Rib and pickled Chilis.
Sated and bordering on stuffed, portions more than justifying Strip-pricing when sourcing is considered, round four included three Fish each taken out of their usual context, Branzino wrapped in Banana Leaves to concentrate flavors built upon by Panang Curry while meaty Chilean Seabass finds levity in Dashi, though neither managed to match the creativity or impact of Monk Fish “Osso Bucco” built by Prosciutto-wrapped filets swimming in the flavors of Puttanesca.
Not the sort of table to skip something sweet, though Herringbone’s Dessert offerings have not changed in ages, it is fortunate that both Mascarpone Cheesecake and the Chocolate Tart are small, and much like the rest of Herringbone’s Cuisine the flavors are impactful with Ingredients well thought out such that each compliments the others.
FIVE STARS: Although Herringbone has been an under-appreciated property ever since opening, the food has never been in question. Now, changing hands from Hakkasan to MGM at the end of May, one can only hope Aria management will put a little more PR behind the best Seafood restaurant in town. Always big on flavor, never lacking in ingredient quality and more creative by the day, Marty and Nyko’s new Spring Menu is nothing short of stunning.
RECOMMENDED: From the Garden, Lobster & Hearts of Palm, Crispy Shrimp, Mary’s Crispy Hot Chicken, Smoked Bone Marrow, Monk Fish “Osso Bucco,” Chocolate Salted Caramel Tart.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Bone Marrow, Soft Shell Crab, Prosciutto and Monk Fish were all nightly specials and subject to change.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
#THECLOUD – White Chocolate Crémeux, Grand Marnier, Angel Food Cake, Strawberry Ice Cream, Cotton Candy Cloud
Last visited in 2016, shortly after Pastry Chef Brigette Contreras accepted an offer to re-imagine the Restaurant’s Dessert menu, it was on Wednesday night that STK was found predictably packed, an ongoing situation for the concept originating out of Los Angeles and now spread across the globe.
Serving Sin City since The Cosmopolitan’s grand opening, one of several Restaurants that has survived the property’s sale and most certainly the most successful, it is on the third floor that STK opens its doors at 4:30pm daily, Executive Chef Stephen Hopcraft manning stoves focused on Steaks and Sides while a good looking staff serves an even more attractive crowd.
As serious a Steakhouse as it needs to be, the “see and be seen” aspect of a place lit such that everyone appears a little sexier impossible to ignore, it is passing by a bar often three-deep that diners find banquettes built for small and large parties, the music loud enough to create a pulse and eventually best described as “thumping” once the place is full.
Energetic with servers to match, professionalism plus a bit of witty banter generating several laughs across the course of ninety-minutes, it was declining Cocktails that dinner began with the first of two Brioche Loaves, arguably Las Vegas’ best complimentary Carbohydrate thanks to soft morsels slathered in Blue Cheese Butter abut still greedy to sop up fragrant green Oil.
Unafraid to be creative, though luxury items frequently come with a price-tag to match, it was having already tasted several STK Signatures during a prior visit that Dinner began with Chef Hopcraft’s Foie Gras Pop Tart, the seared Liver inside still sporting a few veins but otherwise delicious inside crisp Pastry topped in housemade Jam and a equal drizzle of Icing.
Onward next to Entrees and additions, mixed seasonal Mushrooms and Cream under a golden dome still one of the best Steakhouse sides in town, it was in addition to crisp Tots with Remoulade that $100+ Market Price Lobster was presented, a generous two-pounds nicely poached in Butter and bolstered by Morels with a “Thermidor” feel, though the Croquettes were filled with King Crab as opposed to Potatoes.
Saving plenty of room for Dessert, a bottomless cup of hot Coffee cleansing the palate between bites, it is at $15 each and $20 for #THECLOUD that Chef Contreras’ work is offered, the hashtagged new addition torched tableside to reveal delicate Strawberry Shortcake imbued with a bit of Booze that plays well off wisps of Sugar while Sweet Potato Donuts dripping in Maple Glaze remain an STK signature for good reason.
Using Crémeux in place of Ganache to lighten Flourless Chocolate Cake, a clever maneuver that allows each layer its own identity and the dish as a whole unexpected levity, it is even creamier that guests will find Cheesecake splattered by Blueberries and perfumed by Lemon, though night’s sweetest bites came by way of “Banana Bread Pudding” served Sticky Toffee-style with a crisp Feuilletine and Vanilla Ice Cream helping to mellow locally-made Banana Whiskey.
FOUR STARS: In a city full of serious Steakhouses it may seem surprising that STK continues to pack ’em in nightly, yet despite being trendy before everyone had Instagram the brand has remained relevant by sticking to big flavors and fun presentations plus some of Las Vegas’ most under-discussed desserts from Pastry Chef Brigette Contreras.
RECOMMENDED: Brioche Pull-Apart, Foie Gras Pop Tart, Mushroom Pot Pie, STK Sweet Potato Donuts, Banana Bread Pudding, #THECLOUD.
AVOID: Listed as MP, the Lobster does not justify more than a Benjamin compared to other presentations in town.
TIP: The online menu posted by The Cosmopolitan is woefully out of date, as are desserts listed at www.stksteakhouse.com/venues/las-vegas.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Nutella Mousse – Passion Fruit Meringue, Pistachios
Bomba – Coconut Budino, Lime Sugar
Long supporting not much aside from chains (and Honey Salt) it was Tuesday night that residents of Summerlin again packed La Strega, the former home of Due Forni completely re-imagined with a lighter color palate sourcing the Italian coast and Cuisine to match from Gina Marinelli.
Translated as “The Witch,” a connotation which may escape locals unaware that tales of “good witches” outnumber evil overseas, it is immediately on entry that guests will find the old patio replaced by an indoor space featuring organic elements, turning right putting a full kitchen on display with Due Forni’s Wine bar removed and an ambiance far more welcoming.
A long-delayed project for several reasons, though Marinelli’s desire to cook in a kitchen where she calls the shots has been a long-time coming, it was seated in the parlor amongst affluent Summerland residents that skilled service took center stage, a female Valley-native proving well-informed about La Strega’s plates as well as the local dining scene.
Certainly an important Restaurant, Chef Marinelli’s former boss and television-star Scott Conant set to shutter nearby Masso Osteria after just two years, it is from a list of thirty items divided across seven categories that guests are asked to choose, drinks all named after Women joined by Beer and Wine available by the glass or bottle.
Opting for a dozen dishes despite just two diners, portions such that this would be too much for many, it was while the man across the table sipped his Gin and Tonic that first bites arrived, a daily special of Caviar Toast with lightly-applied Fish Sauce not as briny as it reads, and actually fairly mundane despite what would seem to be an intense combination of ingredients.
Focused on the menu henceforth, $14 Meatballs from the “Butcher” section overworked and dense amidst melted Cheese and Tomato Sauce, the evening’s first highlight arrived by way of Farroto featuring tender Grains and Mushrooms adrift in creamy Mascarpone while two “Pizzas” to follow were each well constructed, the version folded around Taleggio simple yet striking with or without a drizzle of Honey and a combination of imported Prosciutto plus Vegetables nicely balanced despite Crust not leavened long enough to develop much of a cornicione.
Opting for three Pastas and one “Main,” the former ranging $15 to $19 and slightly over-cooked Chicken $23, Bucatini Genovese seems destined to become a signature as a result of al dente Noodles mixed with contrasting textures and bright Herbs while Rigatoni Bolognese is also structurally peerless with tremendous depth of flavor that starts porky before developing a bit of heat that quickly dissipates to leave behind a lingering note of Tomatoes enriched with Wine.
Less fond of “Stracci,” the savory Stew of Beef Cheeks and Mushrooms marred by cut ribbons of Pasta that were at least 25% thicker than necessary, it was after finishing the last of Marinelli’s chunky Polenta that Coffee transitioned diners to Dessert, Pastry Chef Betty Park’s Bay Leaf Panna Cotta passed over in favor of Vanilla Gelato doused in sweetened Chianti, airy Nutella Mousse with inoffensive shards of Passion Fruit and La Strega’s “Bomba” featuring smooth Pudding at the center of soft Brioche that is best torn in half and dragged repeatedly through toasted Coconut shavings.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Not always perfect, but assertive and fairly priced, La Strega will be a space worth watching as its audience evolves and if momentum can be sustained it could spark a cultural shift in Las Vegas’ wealthiest suburb.
Pistachio Macaron, Chocolate Macaron, Passion Fruit Macaron, Caramel Macaron, Vanilla Macaron, Raspberry Macaron, Blackberry Pate de Fruit, Pear Guimauve
Hazelnut Milk Chocolate Truffle, Powdered Sugar Dusted White Chocolate Truffle
Although Las Vegas did not lack for dining events during Uncorked weekend it was in celebration of one special woman that guests sat down at Le Cirque, and in their ever-impressive way General Manager Ivo Angelov, Chef Alan Mardonovich and the rest made it memorable.
Now in its twenty-first year of business, much of the Forbes 5-star front of house present from the start, it was just prior to 6:00pm that diners were greeted at Le Cirque’s hostess stand, a seat gazing out on Bellagio’s famous fountains found set with personalized menus and a Champagne toast arriving quickly, compliments of management.
Described as a “jewel box” by many, and on the night before Mother’s Day at capacity from open to close, it was while enjoying housemade Bread and imported Butter from Bordier that guests received course one, Le Crabe still magnificent as it was in its 2015 debut with Caviar breaking brisk and buttery atop hand-picked Crustacean sweetened by Apple Gelee.
Continuing with a timeless plate, Sirio Maccioni’s Lobster & Avocado Salad celebrating 35 years and dynamic as ever with seasonal Citrus countered by Black Truffle Vinaigrette, it was in addition to this that Langoustines and Duck Liver comprised round two, the former snappy and sweet atop Lemon Beurre Blanc dotted by Caviar while the latter presented something rich and luxurious with the sort of delicacy rarely seen outside the Michelin Guide’s top ranks.
Continuing seasonally with vibrant green Risotto, each Grain of Rice consistent and creamy in carrying the very essence of Spring, it was here that an off-menu addition arrived in the form of a 63-Degree Egg as “Breakfast,” the textural juxtaposition to Mushrooms and Asparagus pleasant while fermented flavors from Sauce Vin Jaune and aged Parmesan built depth around the edges.
Never missing a beat across three leisurely hours, other tables turning over more quickly en route to “O,” it was as the final savories that three plates arrived, fork-soft Veal Cheeks smartly complimented by bright vegetation and Banyuls Vinegar while Japanese Scallops and roasted Chicken were each upgraded beyond ubiquity by seasonal Mushrooms, the Morels particularly beautiful as a classic accoutrement to Poulet au Vin Jaune.
Cleansing the palate with Blood Orange Sorbet, just one bite then gone, it was while Birthday Cake was sliced that two Soufflés were presented, flaming Grand Marnier quickly extinguished by thick Cream and exquisite as ever while a seasonal Parfait with Strawberry and Rhubarb is also light and lovely with smoothness occasionally punctuated by Honeycomb.
FIVE STARS: Now toqued by Alan Mardonovich for over a year, and continuing to push forward in terms of flavors and elegance, Le Cirque remains one of Las Vegas’ very best Restaurants just as it has been for two decades.
RECOMMENDED: White Chocolate-Coffee Bread, Roasted Brittany Langoustine, Sauteed Foie Gras, Fava Beans and Spring Onion Risotto, Roasted Organic Jidori Chicken, Soufflé au Chocolat, Grand Marnier Soufflé.
AVOID: N/A – though admittedly the Passionfruit Macaron was eaten by others.
TIP: Although Walk-ins are accommodated as best possible Le Cirque’s small size and dedicated clientele make reservations strongly recommended, particularly when Alba Truffle season rolls around in late-September and October.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Located inside Suite 242 of 6380 South Valley View Boulevard it seems likely that no one will accidentally stumble upon Chocolate Chip Cookie Company, but for those with the prudence to seek Dessert while out and about the small store in front of a commissary kitchen may just be serving Las Vegas’ best collection of locally made rounds.
Focused on “Bringing the Cookie Back,” and previously available only by delivery, it was late 2018 that Jovan Mesa-Glennon and husband John opened a small store at the back of an industrial complex, hours from noon till eight o’clock or later Thursday through Sunday giving guests a chance to see the facility and take home one or more of several flavors.
Baking everything from scratch, Jovan’s secret recipes yielding the sort of Cookie that blossoms a bit around the edge before becoming crisp, it was after tasting a few samples that decisions were made, the business’ namesake buttery with just enough Vanilla and Cinnamon to perfume the palate while chunks of Bittersweet Chocolate are partially melted throughout the center.
Next tasting Peanut Butter, the least impressive of Mrs. Mesa-Glennon’s flavors as a result of textural monotony, White Chocolate Macadamia Nut quickly returned to form by way of mellow sweetness and toasty spots while Toffee Chocolate Chip was plenty gooey, slightly salty and varied from bite-to-bite.
Titling their version of the Snickerdoodle a “Cinnamon and Sugar Cookie,” the granulated top plus plenty of Butter making each mouthful sugary and moist, fans of Banana Bread will be happy to know Chocolate Chip Cookie Company’s take tastes a lot like the real deal with Walnuts adding texture while a daily special featuring shredded Coconut and Marshmallows achieved excellence by way of baking time that caramelized the edges while lightly browning the top.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Although unlikely to get a lot of foot traffic at the back of an off-strip industrial complex the wife and husband team behind Chocolate Chip Cookie Company are quickly making a name for themselves thanks to a “do one thing and do it well” spot featuring locally-made rounds in a variety of flavors.
AVOID: Peanut Butter Cookie is fine, but would benefit from some chopped Nuts or Sea Salt for texture.
TIP: Open 12:00pm to 8:00pm Thursday and Sunday, Noon to 10:00pm Friday and Saturday. Available via delivery with GrubHub and 1 free with a half-dozen using Yelp! check-in.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Tenaya Creek Bonanza Brown Beer Can Chicken – “Ratatouille,” Beer Jus
Inspired by the first UNLV Runnin’ Rebels basketball team to make the Final Four it was after several empty years that JJ’s Bar re-opened as Hardway 8, former Aureole Chef John Church offering consultancy on a menu that looks beyond Wings and Burgers to lure more than just neighbors down to Henderson’s Water Street.
A rapidly evolving area, nearby construction including upgrades to Gold Mine Tavern joining longtime tenants including Chef Flemming’s Bake Shop, guests entering 46 South Water Street will quickly notice 5,000+ square feet well lit by both natural and artificial means, a wall lined with nostalgia and televisions showing sports to one side and the bar made from Las Vegas Convention Center’s old bleachers to the right.
Co-owned by Bryant Jane and Lyle Cervenka of Starboard Tack, their familiarity with Sin City giving Hardway 8 a head start in terms of word of mouth, it was shortly after opening on Saturday that several parties entered, staff suggesting this to be a continuation of busy nights prior during which Chef Teddy Jefferson and team have been executing Johnny’s menu with resoundingly good feedback.
Smartly designed with a retractable garage door and various styles of seating, everything from banquettes to bar stools available for guests 21 and older, it was after perusing Beer and Cocktails that a three-page menu was presented, Salads starting things off with the $8 House basic but big while Wedge and “Cesar,” misspelled or intentional, both go well-beyond typical pub grub in terms of constituents ranging from seared Pork on the former to blistered and shaved Sprouts topping chopped Romaine and buttery Brioche Croutons with the latter.
Offering vegetarians several choices, Pasta and Panini included, those looking for something sharable would be well served to order Hardway 8’s Meze Platter offering three styles of Hummus along with Olives, Tomatoes and Bread, the best bites including chunky Edamame on toasted Flatbread and Veggies dragged through creamy Beets.
Heavier henceforth, though gently packed Meatballs with a molten Swiss core eat lighter than they read thanks to impactful Peppercorn Sauce, it is for $18 that Chef Jefferson offers one of the area’s best Charcuterie bargains, three styles each of Meat and Cheese all well-portioned and accompanied by Crostini, Condiments and housemade Pickles.
Going interactive with Mozzarella cut tableside, house Tomato Sauce helping an otherwise predictable plate stand out, guests seeking spice will be happy to know that in addition to Chicken Wings Hardway 8 also offers crispy Oysters with a kick, though in terms of fried items it would be hard to name a better Fish n’ Chips anywhere in town whether enjoyed with or without Dill-accented Tartar Sauce.
Adding an off-menu “Adult Bologna and Cheese,” imported Mortadella generously replacing Oscar Mayer on buttered Toast alongside a tongue-in-cheek dig at Henderson’s old nickname, it was finishing big that Rabbit was presented as boldly-spiced Sausage amidst braised Onions and smashed Potatoes, the follow-up Burger also anything but subtle and best eaten with fork and knife while Beer Can Chicken finished tableside with Tenaya Creek Jus is worth both the mess one will make of their hands and $32 for a portion that will easily feed two-to-four diners.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Not intended as fine dining, and thus fairly judged in comparison to other sports and gaming venues throughout the 702, Hardway 8’s biggest challenge going forward will be convincing fans of PT’s or Aces & Ales that better is possible, but for those who always expect more from their Food and Beverage Chef Jefferson, John Church and the team behind Starboard Tack have created something special on Water Street that warrants immediate attention.
AVOID: Noise level is variable across the room, so those who may not want to hear Sting or Duran Duran at top volume may wish to assess the ceiling for speakers when choosing their seats.
TIP: 11a till midnight daily, 21+ only.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Although online review sites and public relations departments across the city would have one believe otherwise, Jean Georges Steakhouse has been one of Las Vegas best ever since Chef Sean Griffin took over in 2015, and on Thursday evening he, Robert Phillips and team once again proved precisely why.
Now celebrating nearly a decade on Aria’s second floor, only it and The Buffet remaining since December 2009 while so much else has changed, it is immediately after eyes adjust to recessed lighting that guests find themselves amidst a well appointed room, background music never invasive but just loud enough to drown-out surrounding tables.
More swanky since a Summer 2017 rebrand, gold replacing red and several new service pieces helping bring Chefs tableside, it was as a party of seven including five first-timers that carte blanche was given to Chef Griffin, Wine and Cocktails quickly followed by buttery Loaves of Brioche and individual Amuse portions of Wagyu Beef draped over Choux with molten Cheese and truffled Mayonnaise.
Reined in slightly from past visits, a different crowd necessitating accessible flavors but at the same time agreeable to being more adventurous than usual, it was with share-plates set that course one featured two seasonally-dressed menu items plus Jean Georges’ offering for #picnicinthepark, the Thai-inspired Wraps enjoyable with or without added heat but nonetheless unable to match snappy Shrimp wrapped in Bacon or creamy Duck Liver blended with Nuts and spread on Toast with Jam.
Using Salad as a segue to grilled Meats, the iconic Hearts of Palm and Tomatoes praised by all for its brightness while sliced Asparagus made new fans thanks to Nuts plus Mushrooms, it was with plates re-set that table quickly filled, a large central board of three Steaks from Greeley Colorado predictably gathering the most attention, in particular for the full-size Bone that one guest ascertained must be a prop from “The Flintstones.”
Deferring temperature to the kitchen, diners typically used to Medium-Well or beyond pleasantly surprised by just how good a shade of pink can be when treated correctly, it was from sides including Mashed Potatoes and vibrant Snap Peas that many took large helpings, though those more knowledgeable went straight for sizable Belgian Asparagus with Ramps two-ways plus Parisian Gnocchi interspersed with roasted Morels and Fava Beans.
Drawing eyes from around the room with Smoked Wagyu sliced tableside, a neighboring table even requesting a small slice of the residual end before ordering one of their own, it was with Beef soon gone that many reluctantly considered Chicken, though all who did immediately agreed that the combination of brining, grilling and light Tempura was an unanticipated highlight.
Now 9pm, two “stuffed” guests calling it a night before Dessert, those who remained were treated to the full array of Jean Georges Steakhouse sweets, both Cheesecake and the Molten Cake purportedly “invented” by Vongerichten gone fast while seasonal Citrus in the form of Crème Brulee and Pound Cake each also performed well – though by the end all agreed that they wished they had saved room for more of Sin City’s best Apple Pie or the Salted Caramel Sundae.
FIVE STARS: Fit for “foodies” and traveling epicures, but equally accessible to those raised on Corn-fed commodity Beef in the Midwest, Jean George Steakhouse continues to shine as a result of Ingredient sourcing and passionate personnel with no signs of slowing in terms of quality or creativity.
RECOMMENDED: Foie Gras Marzipan, Wagyu Carpaccio, Tomato Salad, Gnocchi, White Asparagus, Bone Marrow, Smoked Wagyu Brisket, 18oz Prime Bone-In Ribeye, Crunchy Organic Chicken, Market Apple Pie, Lemon Pound Cake.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Online Menu is currently out-of-date, and several sides were market-driven daily specials.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Mixed Berry Tart, Exotic Fruit Tart, Chocolate Ganache Tart
Strawberry Vanilla Macaron
Tropical Fruit Mousse
Apple Tart
Mixed Berry Cheesecake
Chai Tea White Chocolate Mousse with Blood Orange and Caramel
Raspberry Chocolate Mousse Dome
Commemorating one year of #supportlocal catering efforts it was in postponed celebration of Cinco de Mayo that CRAFTkitchen once again served lunch at the office, Mrs. Tami Blinn predictably arriving early with all the necessary items and husband Jaret providing a wide range of staff favorites plus a few new items that were equally delicious
By no means a “Mexican” Restaurant, but at the same time offering Meats such as Carnitas and Chorizo daily as part of Omelets, Bennys and more, it was around 11:20am that Tami and an assistant arrived porting several trays and bowls all maintained at appropriate temperatures, a build-your-own Taco bar particularly impressive thanks to condiments including housemade Guacamole, Lime Tortilla Chips, Pico de Gallo and Salsa.
Always well-portioned and fair-priced, a group of twenty-five getting their fill with plenty of leftovers packed to-go, it was beginning with aforementioned Tacos that several Hispanic employees praised both Tinga-style Chicken and slowly simmered Pork, the light acidity of each pairing nicely with mashed Avocados bright with Garlic plus julienned Radish, diced Onions and more.
Additionally impressing with Tostadas, each round remaining crisp beneath a sizable Tiger Shrimp bathed in Citrus, it was after eyeing “Elote Dip” with skepticism that word quickly spread of it being delicious, all the flavors of Street Corn delivered amidst the texture of Korean Corn Cheese while CRAFTkitchen’s Chilaquiles also performed well thanks to on-site assembly which prevented Chips from being even the slightest bit soggy.
Not about to forget Dessert, a platter of two-bite Tarts seeing both Berries with Custard as well as Dark Chocolate fare better than overly-sour yellow Gel, it was as an added bonus that six larger Pastries were provided, an oversized Macaron crackling softly to yield Vanilla Frosting and Strawberry Jam while Tropical Fruit Mousse outperformed the Tart thanks to cream which helped offset otherwise cloying Passion Fruit.
Once again impressing with an Apple Tart, Crust holding up well to both Custard and Fruit garnished with Cinnamon-Sugar, it had been a while since Chef Blinn’s rich yet light Cheesecake had been tasted, while two new creations saw Raspberry unsurprisingly pair well with Chocolate and Chai match its unique flavor to Caramel Glaze and a Blood Orange center.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone CRAFTkitchen has always gone the extra mile to assure off-site dining is every bit as delicious as inside the Restaurant on South Eastern, and on day 366 of #supportlocal the team at CRAFTkitchen once again made every moment spent coordinating these meals worthwhile.
RECOMMENDED: Elote Dip, Shrimp Ceviche Tostadas, Chilaquiles, Mixed Berry Tart, Apple Tart, Chai Tea White Chocolate Mousse.
AVOID: Exotic Fruit Tart, because Passion Fruit ruins everything.
TIP: See the website for sample catering items or contact the Restaurant directly with a budget and let them do what they do best.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Originally known as Aqua, but since reborn twice as MICHAEL MINA Restaurant, it was behind The Bellagio Conservatory & Botanical Gardens that five guests sat down for Dinner on Saturday, service led by Jorge Pagani once again faultless as the kitchen showed off a seasonal bounty.
A former Michelin star recipient in the guide’s Las Vegas days, accolades that would have undoubtedly continued or received an upgrade with MICHAEL MINA’s 2018 shift towards market-fresh Seafood, it is from the hands of Executive Chef Nick Dugan that spring is expressed a la carte or via tasting menu, each featuring several new items in addition to Chef Mina’s classics.
A large yet serene space, natural lighting prominent at 6:00pm before slowly being replaced by the soft-glow of chandeliers, it was from familiar servers that Dinner started with complimentary Champagne, Mina’s own Cuvee soon joined by an Amuse of Spring Pea Soup served cold atop textural elements including Horseradish Panna Cotta and tiny Gulf Shrimp.
Next offered the first of two Bread baskets, Mina’s Laffa and trio of Spreads appropriately light to avoid filling up but simultaneously compelling enough to overeat, it was with shots of iced Belvedere poured that Michael Mina’s Caviar Parfait was presented, layers of Caviar, Salmon and Crème Fraiche luxurious as ever atop a crisp Latke and deviled Eggs.
Continuing with a tower of Market List raw preparations, the tiered service an elegant touch and throwback to Mina’s early trios, those seeking to dine light cannot go wrong with Hamachi or Snapper that carefully balance heat and acid, though the star comes by way of sliced Squid carefully dressed in Miso and smoky Urfa with brightness added by Yuzu.
Unaware of Chef Dugan’s recent history with Gavin Kaysen until later, the Bocuse d’Or Head Coach employing Nick as his Chef de Cuisine at Bellecour for nearly two years, it is in retrospect that dishes including grilled Octopus with Onions and Belgian White Asparagus fortified by Truffles and Bottarga stand out even more prominently, each boldly expressing the season but never losing focus despite implementing several strong flavors.
Not about to forget Duck Liver, the first of two styles offering a creamy Torchon ready for spreading on Brioche with various forms of Rhubarb, it was continuing on to richer dishes that Chef Dugan presented housemade Gnudi with Oregon Morels and Lobster from Maine, fresh Favas adding freshness while Butter and a bit of Wine tie it all together.
Describing the next dish as “Chef Nick’s signature,” something that if not already a fact will soon be, it is much like Josh Smith’s Beef Wellington at BARDOT Brasserie that Spanish Turbot comes surrounded by Pastry, a layer of Shrimp Mousse keeping flesh moist while Scallop-infused Peppercorn Sauce does well to compliment but not overwhelm the Flatfish’s subtleties.
Briefly veering off-menu for a surprise, Mina’s iconic whole lobe of Foie roasted and served with Cabbage and a Brussels Sprout-Kale hybrid, it was in follow-up that two whole Fish were presented tableside, scale-on Sea Bass standing up well against vibrant Chermoula and Olives while broiled Snapper carried Indian Butter Chicken as its inspiration atop a bed of Rice perfumed by Onions and Spices.
Smart to save room for Dessert, Pastry Chef Vivian Chang’s move from Waldorf Astoria to The Mina Group displaying her talent to its largest audience since opening Yardbird, it was on three as-yet unreleased choices that guests were left to indulge, the “Chocolate Mina Cake” spinning Red Velvet by separating Chocolate and Beets without excessive sweetness while a Pineapple Parfait and the reinvention of Chef Mina’s Root Beer Float are textural masterpieces that look gorgeous and eat light.
FIVE STARS:In an ever-changing market it is easy to overlook small changes, but with its reinvention last year MICHAEL MINA took a big step forward, and with Chefs Nick Dugan and Vivian Chang now overseeing the Kitchen and Pastry program, respectively, the Restaurant remains nothing short of remarkable.
RECOMMENDED: Michael Mina’s Caviar Parfait, Monterey Bay Squid, Warm White Asparagus Tartine, Foie Gras Torchon, Ricotta Gnudi, Spanish Turbot Pithivier, Broiled Tai Snapper, Pineapple Parfait, Root Beer Float.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: The Market List Menu is prone to daily change and Whole Foie Gras requires advanced notice.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Not following a traditional path to success, the first iteration housed within Antiques at the Market, it had been nearly four years since last visit that Truffles N Bacon Café was found hopping on Saturday, the Restaurant inside Suite one-hundred of 8872 South Eastern Avenue full to capacity just prior to 11am and remaining as such over the course of nearly two hours.
Owned and operated by Magnolia Magat and Chef Jackie Lim, a social media campaign bolstered by the 10.5lb “Belly of the Beast” Burger just as successful as it was silly, it was by way of online ordering that guests arrived to find their six-top ready, a server named Cherrie stretched across several other tables but performing her duties admirably.
Based on the idea of accessible decadence, a once-tiny menu now encompassing Breakfast and Lunch plus several “secrets,” it was immediately after seating that drinks including fresh-squeezed Orange Juice, Citrus Tea and Lavazza Coffee were poured, the latter kept brimming without need for reminder and always hot with several choices of Sugar or Sweetener.
Dressed in clever signage and locally-made modern art, the soundtrack mostly top-40 but never too loud, it was beginning with two Toasts that Truffles N Bacon Café immediately made good on promises of “something that will make you smile after taking that first bite,” Piggy Gone Wild trending earthy but brightened by Tomato Jam while its nutty sibling is delivered lengthy and ready to impress beneath a smear of Nutella and Strawberries.
Always serving some of Sin City’s best Scones, and now pairing the Apricots and Sugar with two types of housemade Butter, diners seeking bold international influences will find them at every turn, Chicken Wings veering Korean without being too hot thanks to Honey and a bed of Pickles while the “Luv Me Longtime Longanisa Melt” spins an American classic Filipino with umami enhanced by Oaxacan Cheese and Garlic Vinegar Aioli.
Having fun with fried Spam and spicy Ranch served in an appropriate vessel, Chef Lim’s “simplest” Pasta also performing well thanks to a bold blend of Cheeses and piping hot plate, it was across two more items that “Godson Mac” was presented, the first a side to boneless Chicken cooked crisp next to Bacon-imbued Waffles plus porky Collards while the “TNB Cafe Signature Burger” places a carefully fried block between Angus Beef and Bacon Jam on a Bun.
Offering several healthy items including Omelets and Vegetarian fare, but certainly better suited for those inclined to indulge, it was beginning with housemade Cookies that course three got started, both Chocolate Chip and Manifesto rounds arriving warm and melty while “French Toasted Bread Pudding” eats surprisingly light despite plenty of Custard, Caramel and Berries.
Sated but not stuffed, though soon quickly to cross that line, it was with mixed feelings that diners either loved or hated the sweet-meets-savory Dark Secret while none thought twice about praising thick slices of Bread soaked in caramelized Buttercream, Plantains and Streusel, nor Lemon Curd Pancakes served with mixed Berries that surprisingly outperformed the more photogenic Ube version from Truffles N Bacon Café’s secret menu.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: First discovered when working nearby, a location inside Antiques at the Market quirky yet fun in 2014, Truffles N Bacon Café has aged well while simultaneously learning how to navigate social media. Never taking themselves too seriously, and always focused on making guests happy, Ms. Magat and Chef Lim have a lot to be proud of for achieving success in a tough market and considering the menu’s diversity plus great customer service it seems likely that success will continue.
AVOID: Dark Secret and Ube Pancakes were both “love or hate” dishes amongst the group, the former potentially superior as “Dirty Brownies” offered without Cream Cheese or Bacon Jam and the latter definitely better up-top thanks to Macapuno which should be more evenly distributed across layers in the kitchen.
TIP: Online Check-in available via Yelp! and delivery offered via Grubhub or EZCater. Open Monday 8:00AM – 3:00PM, Wednesday – Saturday 8:00AM – 4:00PM, Sunday 8:00AM – 2:00PM. Closed on Tuesdays.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Although the future of every eatery inside Hard Rock Hotel & Casino hangs in the balance it was earlier than anticipated that Sam Fox’s Culinary Dropout “dropped out,” an overnight shutter seeing Morton’s Restaurant Group step-up and take over with some inside help from the Executive Chefs of soon-to-be Virgin Hotel.
Dubbed Craft + Community Bar and Grill, a name likely to last until 2020 sees the property’s temporary shutter, guests entering the space immediately off the gaming floor will quickly see little has changed from prior occupants, everything from artwork to management maintained though the menu has already seen some adjustments.
Open at 11:30am on weekdays and an hour earlier on Saturday or Sunday, Brunch then running until 3pm, Craft + Community looks to bring Las Vegas all the elements of a backyard party and between its seamless indoor-outdoor environment and frequent live entertainment the vibe is no doubt lively while service is attentive, well-informed and friendly.
Focused on American fare with a middle-of-the road price-point, Appetizers, Salads and Sandwiches ranging $8-18 with Entrees approximately $10 more, it was with Iced Tea and a pair of Fruit-forward Cocktails in hand that things were underway no more than fifteen minutes after seating, a “Community Board” for $35 soon to arrive with enough Charcuterie, Cheese, housemade Bread and Condiments for four.
Impressed by ingredient quality, though slicing skills leave something to be desired with Bresaola in particular a bit too thin and frayed at the edges, it was after finishing off the last of creamy Beemster and Beets that two Sandwiches arrived, the Lamb Gyro comparable to anything one will find at a local Greek spot while Prime Rib and melted Swiss comprising the French Dip are plenty moist even before being plunged into Au Jus.
Not a spot for shortcuts, the fluffy Roll and Pita both made in Hard Rock’s Bake Shop while Fries are cut by hand, it was with share plates reset that Soup and Entrees arrived, Chipotle Chicken Chowder unfortunately proving a bit too spicy for timid tastes while Meatloaf generously topped with housemade Ketchup and golden Fried Chicken are both amongst Sin City’s best, the latter in particular thanks to a generous spice profile that penetrates deep below the Breading whether light Meat or dark.
Smartly sticking with Mickey Harden for Dessert, the man in charge of almost everything sweet at 4455 Paradise Road again showing up in a big way without commanding any credit, it is from his “Craft Box” that guests will be happy to share Brittle, Caramel Popcorn and Bourbon Caramel Bacon Bark while the decadent S’mores Cake and tangy Strawberry Lemonade Pudding are also well-portioned but so enjoyable that more than one might be necessary to avoid fighting over the last bite.
FOUR STARS: Replacing Culinary Dropout, and currently undergoing incremental menu change, Craft + Community focuses on American Fare in a hip setting that flows nicely from interior to patio. Still a work in progress, but featuring classic recipes done well plus Pastry from Mickey Harden, all signs indicate this to be a temporary project but thus far almost everything tastes great with prices that are proportionate to portions, quality and setting.
RECOMMENDED: Prickly Pear Margarita, Prosciutto di San Daniel, Prarie Breeze Cheddar, Beemster Goat Cheese, French Dip, Southern Fried Chicken, Craft Box, Strawberry Lemonade Pudding Cake.
AVOID: Bresaola was poorly sliced and Chipotle Chicken Chowder needs more smoke with less fire.
TIP: Live Music is offered on Fridays and Saturdays, possibly Thursdays, though a complete schedule is not yet posted.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Serving Las Vegas for nearly forty years one might assume Metro Pizza has the delivery game down to a science, but by utilizing a central phone number and e-mail specifically for catering John Arena and Sam Facchini’s Pizzeria goes one step further than most to assure seamless customer service.
Featuring locations North, South, East and West, attentive staff acting as triage to assure timely arrival of Food, utensils, plates and condiments, it was on the first day of May that #supportlocal once again received everything ten minutes early with staff ready to dig in.
Suitable for almost any budget, paper or online menus offering a wide range of family-size dishes in addition to Pizzas, it was deferring the order largely to Metro that five Pies plus Bread, Pasta, Salad and Dessert were received for under $15 per guest, the all-inclusive cost predictably yielding enough for all plus plenty of leftovers.
Now the eighth time delivering to this office, in addition to a dozen or more visits to locations on Decatur or Sky Pointe, it was beginning with Salad that many once again praised Metro’s duo of housemade Dressings, though those more concerned with eating while Food was still temperature appropriate predictably went straight for the recently launched “Zamboni” Pizza complete with two Meats, Roasted Peppers and a generous drizzle of Hot Honey.
Moving next to Meatballs, the combination of Pork and Beef with almost no binder predictably dense and rich in contrast to tangy Tomato Sauce, it is no surprise that Metro’s all-new Rigatoni with Sausage, Peppers and Onions also performed beautifully amongst a staff that frequently gravitates towards pronounced spicing and big flavors.
Not about to pass by 86th Street, the cold-fermented Crust remaining defiantly light despite its thickness even after traveling ten miles, the choice between Vodka and Red Sauce really comes down to personal preference, as too does whether or not Chicken and Feta “belong” on a Pizza, though considering the Pantheon was devoured in fifteen minutes it seems the answer is “Yes!”
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone there is a reason John and Sam have been successfully serving Las Vegas for so long, a good part of it skill and doing things the right way, but also by hiring good people and focusing on the customer to deliver on their promises no matter how big or small the budget.
Noticed early April when passing by, though apparently in business since February, it was thanks to its proximity to The Black Sheep that Hazel Fresh Crepes & Frozen Custard was visited on Sunday, a former Dee’s Donuts at the corner of Durango and Warm Springs finally reoccupied and selling Treats that thus far seem well received based on word of mouth.
Family owned and operated, a mother and daughter plus one older employee taking turns waiting on guests who’d managed to locate the small store next to Roberto’s Taco Shop, it was while a Will Ferrell film played on television that decisions were made, Crepes for $8.50 and Custard with unlimited Toppings for $4.99 or one dollar extra to make it large.
Not to be mistaken for artisan, though neither might be Nielsen’s or Luv-It depending on one’s definition, it is on overhead displays that concoctions dreamed up by staff are presented, bases of Vanilla, Chocolate or Swirl each featuring good consistency without any air, but a bit of egginess detectable in the former.
Offering both American and imported toppings, Italian Ferrero Rocher both inspiring and anchoring a mix of Caramel and Hazelnuts, it was wishing that a better quality Chocolate Syrup were used that “Marshmallow Coconut” was set aside in favor of Cherry Cheesecake that doubles down on texture with Fruit, Cake cubes and Nuts.
Receiving the Crepe just a few moments prior, the price justified by an oversized stone completely covered and carefully attended, it was after getting over the use of Reddi-Wip that bites were taken of a soft Pancake rolled around Eurocrem, a Serbian spin on Nutella that divides Hazelnut and Chocolate but here sees them blended, smooth and not nearly as sweet as one might expect.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Taking over the long-abandoned Dee’s Donuts at the corner of Durango and Warm Springs, Hazel is a pleasant family owned spot making oversized Crepes and serving Custard at a good price. Though not as unique as CJ’s or cheap like Sonic, if ownership can get the word out they should do well.
Pita Wrap – Classic Hummus, Romaine Lettuce, Herbed Rice, Flame Grilled Chicken, Sunflower Seeds, Garlic Sauce on the Side
Pita Wrap – Classic Hummus, Romaine Lettuce, Flame Grilled Beef, Diced Tomatoes, Seasoned Cherry Tomatoes, Mint Tzatziki on the Side
Hummus
Baba Ganoush
Halloumi Hash
Pita Fries
Pita
Fried Falafel
Peanut Butter Chocolate Truffle Hummus
Told by two locals, independently, that HUMMUS would be a great choice for #supporrtlocal lunch it was after multiple missed e-mails from owner Najib Saab that the decision was made to simply stop by, a new location at Boca Park far more convenient than Henderson for westsiders, though arrival at 5:45pm on Sunday at first found the entrance locked.
Listed as open from 10:00am until 10:00pm daily, the issue apparently a damaged door, it was after being admitted by one of two employees that the space was found featuring clean lines and organic flourishes, an ethos on the wall explaining the concept as both “clean eating” and “fast-casual,” though the latter soon proved debatable.
Tucked into Suite Seven of 1000 South Rampart Boulevard, the back side of Wahoo’s Fish Taco and next door to Pinot’s Palette, it is near entry that guests will find a list explaining how to order, the choice of Bowl or Wrap followed by Hummus, Greens, Grains, Proteins, Toppings and Sauces at prices ranging from $9.79 for vegetarian choices to $11.29 for Lamb.
Staffed by a skeleton crew, one preoccupied by conversation leaving his colleague to slowly build each order solo, it was after questions during which crew mistook (sold-out) Baklava for Baba Ganoush (“I get confused by the G’s”) that decisions were made, the time between entry and eating nearly twenty minutes but everything fresh and plentiful in terms of portions.
Targeting an ever-growing market of diners focused on convenience and customization, it was beginning with scoops of the Restaurant’s eponymous spread that smooth texture was found complimented by a bit of herbs, the “Baba G” a bit more heterogeneous and less smoky than tangy, though whether this is a good thing comes down to a matter of personal taste.
Unimpressed by Pita, undoubtedly made elsewhere and warmed to order via Panini press, it was on top of two large rounds that flame grilled Beef and Chicken were served, the accoutrements all fresh with seasoned Tomatoes a highlight, as too was the housemade Garlic Sauce that eats slick like Mayonnaise.
A bit overpriced for “Halloumi Hash,” $4.57 for what amounts to less than three ounces of fried Cheese topped haphazardly with Spices, it is fortunate that HUMMUS’ Falafel fares better, frying-to-order providing minimal grease and great density without sacrificing moisture while Pita Fries made ahead come across both sweet and savory to pair well with either the classic Hummus or a $2.96 version swirled with Peanut Butter and lingering Chocolate.
THREE STARS: Another Healthy “Quick Casual” concept, the first found in Henderson, HUMMUS offers fresh food at a good value, but between poor menu knowledge and a strange division of labor the service will need work to thrive in a difficult location.
TIP: Website has featured broken links in the past and online contact form kicks to Spam both ways, Social Media via @hummusbowls seems to yield best response.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Soon celebrating two years serving Spring Valley, an area notoriously lacking for Chef-driven Restaurants despite nearby hospitals and offices that should theoretically sport a crowd in search of quality, Sunday Brunch once again attested to The Black Sheep’s uniqueness in a market otherwise littered by the mundane.
Tucked away at the corner of Durango and Warm Springs, nearby closures including The Goodwich and Paid In Full proving the Southwest a difficult place to get a foothold, it is immediately on entering The Black Sheep that diners realize there is something different about the space, a mural and organic flourishes giving the room an upscale feel while the Bar stocked in Top-shelf Spirits suggests a Mixology program ready to make a good impression.
Toqued by Jamie Tran, years working with Charlie Palmer, Vincent Pouessel and Daniel Boulud giving the Chef a firm command of French technique applied across flavors from her Vietnamese heritage, guests are invited to order Beverages including bottomless Mimosas while perusing a list of thirteen plates ranging savory to sweet – and often a combination of each.
Featuring smart and convivial service, something co-owner and operator Andy Hooper has assured since day one, it was declining Booze in favor of store-bought Orange Juice and Coffee from Lavazza that things started off quickly, four tiny Pastries for $8 not exactly a highlight as none appeared to be made on-site, though warm Strawberry Preserves helped and would be better served with just Bread and Butter.
Hungry enough to order all but Oysters or Steak and Eggs, two items hard to make unique no matter how talented a Chef, it was instead recalling Chef Tran’s impeccable charred Peaches from 2017 that proper plates began with Smokey Heirloom Beets and Poached Pears, the former accompanied by Yogurt and charred Crumbles that play well off Candied Walnuts while the latter trends light, only to be punctuated intermittently by bites of Blue Cheese and Pecans.
Deferring progression to the kitchen, Jamie’s cheerful personality still intact despite long hours in tight quarters, ‘course’ two arrived by way of Chicken Karaage turned-down from her version featuring Kimchi, each bite crispy and balanced by Waffles that sop-up a combination of Mustard Seeds and Syrup while The Black Sheep’s baked Pancake comes at the bargain price of just $9 for something easily sharable as an Entrée or Dessert.
Resetting share plates and refilling Drinks during a short pause, the overhead soundtrack drifting from Tone Loc to GnR and then Drake, it was in another style of Pancake, this time two-for-$9, that Brunch’s best item was offered, a combination of Duck and Asian Pear complimented by Acid touching every part of the palate while Chef Tran’s Vietnamese Imperial Rolls accomplish similar with a bit of lingering heat.
Again changing pace with a slice of French Toast, the removal of Herbs better allowing ground Sesame Seeds to shine amidst Berries and Brandy Syrup, those looking for a great Omelet need look no further than “Melody’s” offered with either Short Ribs or house-smoked Salmon, the Fish selected largely for its novelty and beautiful beside Mushrooms while Chef Tran’s Hash Browns are anything but ordinary thanks to both their crisp texture and complex spicing.
Finishing with one more cup of Coffee and fresh utensils, appetites sated and the room approximately half-full, it was opting for Short Rib over Salmon that The Black Sheep’s Benny outperformed most thanks to not only the Meat but its interplay with Lime Hollandaise while Jamie’s Chilaquiles eschew Meat in favor of earthy Red Sauce brightened by fresh Cheese, tangy Cream and a fried Egg broken by the guest to help Tortillas remain crisp.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Although The Black Sheep remains something of a hidden gem at the corner of Durango and Warm Springs the new Sunday Brunch from Jamie Tran and team is immediately one of Las Vegas’ best thanks to gigantic flavors and eye-catching ingredients served with great balance.
AVOID: Pastries are Buffet quality and for $1 more one can order either Pancake.
TIP: Brunch is offered 11:00a-2:00p on Sundays only, and in addition to $20 Bottomless Mimosas and Bloody Mary’s a full Cocktail and Wine menu is also available.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
