Dizzy Izzy on a Fresh Made Waffle Cone – Butter Queen Coffee, Carmelia Cookie Crunch, Salted Caramel, Honey, Peanut
Serving the Twin Cities 150+ flavors and continuing to grow the menu since opening in 2000 it was late Saturday evening that a stop was made at Izzy’s Ice Cream in Saint Paul, a queue of fifteen patrons already present even as outside temperatures hovered around 45ᵒF which, at least by Minnesota standards, seems like as good a time as any to enjoy a creamy Cone or Cup.
Owned by Lara Hammel and Jeff Sommers with a second storefront in Minneapolis, their signature “Izzy Scoop” of a second ping pong portion served atop the primary flavor seemingly predicting an era where everyone snaps a picture of their Food, guests entering Izzy’s Marshall Avenue location will immediately note walls lined with photographs flanking a small seating area, some of the store itself and others of guests named Izzy or Isabelle whose parents’ decision earns them a free Scoop.
As focused on the community as each small-batch flavor, initiatives for solar power and sustainability discussed in Izzy’s literature, it was after perhaps ten minutes wait that first tastes were taken, a young woman stepping up to do the job of a male colleague too busy flirting with girls offering small spoons including Pumpkin, Chocolate Brownie and more that did not make decisions any easier as all were quite good.
Eventually unable to narrow choices down to just two flavors, but not quite crazy enough to opt for a $120 “Hot Dish” offering all 32 in a custom box to keep, it was with $8.30 exchanged that five Izzy Scoops were presented in a freshly made Waffle Cone, the purity of Roasted Peanuts and Local Honey both remarkable while Salted Caramel unfortunately fell short of Jeni’s and others in terms of mouthfeel, though the more heterogeneous Butter Queen Coffee and Carmelia Cookie Crunch were both rich but not overly sweet and less susceptible to being judged based solely on texture.
Owned and operated by Tim Niver, the brains also behind Mucci’s Italian and Minneapolis’ Meyvn, it was shortly after brunch transitioned to dinner that three guests sat down inside Saint Dinette, a self described gathering place celebrating “flavors found from the mouth of the St. Lawrence River, through the Great Lakes, down the Mississippi, and to the jungle coast south of the border” from the locally born hands of Executive Chef Adam Eaton.
Open now for just over three years in Lowertown, a second floor location overlooking the local farmer’s market and in close proximity to Xcel Energy Center giving the kitchen access to both fresh Produce and new patrons throughout much of the year, it was during an off-hour that the Restaurant was found quiet save for overhead music, a friendly male server seemingly taking it upon himself to make sure the experience was still fun both by way of his exuberance and an obvious love for Saint Dinette’s Food.
Minimally decorated as industrial-chic with high ceilings, white lengths of fabric and comfortable plastic chairs softening concrete and brick, it was after some debate that a decision was made to dine in order deferred to the kitchen, a total of nine items brought forth usually two or three at a time over the course of 90 minutes and beginning with a half-order of Ricotta Gnocchi offering bites of creaminess amidst fresh Tomato Broth, Onions and Seasonal Squash rife with Herbs.
Told up-front that one member of the party was a “Meat and Potatoes” sort, his willingness to step out of that comfort zone benefiting everyone including himself as teeth sunk into a beautiful Scotch Egg with its vibrant yellow Yolk dusted in Paprika and surrounded by housemade Sausage, it was after all got a third of Eaton’s faultless Drop Biscuit slathered in Maple Butter that flavors blossomed even further, a dish described as “Churros” in reality featuring Fish Sticks with a Choux-like exterior stuffed with imported Brandade or Baccalà.
Continuing next with two Sandwiches, the homemade Bun and melty American Cheese attesting to a Restaurant not interested in doing things the easy way when better is possible, it seems safe to assume that rumors of Eaton’s hand-ground Burger being one of Saint Paul’s best are factual even as grilled “Bologna” stole the spotlight thanks to its unmistakable texture but subtle nuances that quickly silence any discussion of Oscar Meyer.
Rounding out savories with square Latkes served alongside Sour Cream topped in low-end Caviar, teensy Fish Eggs not detracting from the plate’s appeal as flavors hinted of Taramosalata when spread, it was with Cold Brew in hand that Dessert soon arrived, a stack of four fluffy Pancakes riffing on Quebec’s Poor-man’s Pudding expectedly rich with Butter and Maple Syrup while Madelines fresh from the pan would make Proust smile whether eaten on their own or dipped in deconstructed Key Lime Pie offered via Mason Jar.
Although Minneapolis and Saint Paul are described as Twin Cities a walk along their streets is more a tale of two, the former a bustling metropolis while the latter’s “Downtown” isn’t exactly desolate, but largely lacking in terms of storefronts save for a few local Coffee Shops plus The Buttered Tin where locals wait up to an hour as a result of not only the lack of competition, but a lengthy menu of Baked Goods plus several Breakfast and Lunch plates.
Now open since 2013 and featuring the skills of Chef Alicia Hinze, a Cordon Bleu graduate who sought to fill a niche with “happiness,” it was just past 1:00pm that The Buttered Tin was found still filled since approximately eight in the morning, a situation overcome by a grab n’ go Pastry counter in front of the bustling kitchen as servers passed by at a rapid and steady pace.
Probably not a place best suited for the indecisive, the combination of countertop, racks and a refrigerated case displaying at least three-dozen styles of scratch-made sweets plus a few savory items such as Biscuits, it was beginning with one sizable specimen featuring good layering and plenty of Thyme that a first taste was taken, the Herbs occasionally a bit overwhelming but not unpleasant while a Seven-Layer Bar to follow developed in waves beginning with Chocolate and slowly dissipating to a lengthy linger of Butter and Coconut.
Unable to wait any longer at this point for Hinze’s most celebrated item, a warmed Cinnamon Roll topped-to-order with Cream Cheese Frosting, suffice it to say that in a region where the Pastry is offered prominently across many menus this version is not as fluffy as some though it is still good, a housemade riff on Hostess’ classic Cupcake also falling short of accolades, particularly considering the $3 cost for what amounts to about two bites.
Seated elsewhere and indulging with Coffee, several halves later discarded to save capacity for additional dining, it was finally at this point that two items worth devouring in their entirety were discovered, a Chocolate Salted Caramel Cookie seemingly flourless and exceptional in its balance while a daily “Milk Ball” filled with Oreo Fluff reminisced of Baked Dim Sum but with the springiness of an Egg Bread such as Brioche.
Making noise at 1340 Thomas Avenue in Saint Paul for nine years it was by a predictable line that visitors at Groundswell were greeted on Saturday, the Coffee Shop with a conscience no longer just a hipster hangout but rather a gathering place for all sorts including elderly couples and soccer moms with their kids in addition to the hirsute I-pad cohort.
Laid out across two rooms and acting as a non-profit space since inception, a collection of local goods to purchase lining walls and shelves with proceeds supporting a variety of local services, it was not until 2013 that Groundswell added a kitchen to supplement what many already considered some of the Twin Cities best Coffee, the appeal undoubtedly growing henceforth though the process of expediting still remains an issue as both Food and Beverage are ordered from the same single access point.
Taking seventh place in the queue than would soon swell to more than twenty, a ten minute wait at 8:40am nearly tripling by nine o’clock and never seeming to dwindle even as all seats sat filled, it was approaching the counter only to find out several Baked Goods were “still in the oven” that an order was crafted, $3.20 Drip Coffee in a mug smooth but not particularly noteworthy given the price while a seasonal Muffin fortified with Sweet Potatoes beneath Almond-Orange Frosting was merely decent as the lateral edges were significantly dried out in comparison to the bottom and center.
Moving next to Banana Bread also offered on weekends as French Toast, the spice profile and density both reference standard with either Cloves, Cardamom or both adding complexity atop Cinnamon, it was just as a plate from the kitchen arrived that teeth pierced Groundswell’s heralded Minnesota Cookie, a bit of flex from edge to center yielding a lovely combination of flavors and textures sweetened lightly by Honey with occasional bitter-sweet pockets of Cranberry.
Admittedly remiss to pass on Cornbread French Toast, three previous stops since landing at MSP and more to follow unfortunately necessitating a bit of restraint, it was on the recommendation of several that brunch culminated with the famous Earl Grey Waffle, the levity of four quarters not only welcomed but impressive as both Cornmeal and Tea Leaves were perceptible in equal amounts beneath Whipped Cream, Blackberries, Honey and tangy housemade Lemon Curd.
Owned and operated by Tim Niver, the brains also behind Saint Dinette and Minneapolis’ Meyvn, it was shortly after Mucci’s Italian unlocked doors on Saturday that guests began to file in, the otherwise Italian space opened in Winter 2016 appearing far older than that date would indicate but everything about the Weekend’s early morning offerings suggesting these folks know how to please a crowd regardless of date or time.
Toqued by Chef Chris Uhrich since opening, past time at now-shuttered Strip Club Meat & Fish spurring an interest in Brunch that in the case of Mucci’s takes an atypical approach, it is upon entering the normally table-service Restaurant that diners are invited to approach the counter, a youthful team of smiling ladies ready to explain an ever-changing collection anchored by Donuts but also offering Pizza and Biscuits.
Not the sort of place for shortcuts, a brief glimpse of the evening menu revealing interesting Primi and Red Sauce Classics alongside Pizza Montanara, it was after listening to a full detailing of the morning’s offerings that an order was crafted to sample one of each style, a collection of five items each delivered temperature appropriate with the rewarmed-slice of Roman style Pie immediately impressive thanks to a crisp base and plenty of leavening beneath tangy Sauce, quality Mozzarella and slightly curled Pepperoni.
Eschewing a Cheese Donut in favor of one of Mucci’s Biscuits next, Pecorino Romano considered to be one of Italy’s best adding salinity and light stretch to an otherwise excellent Buttermilk base, it was following this that things got sweeter, a raised and glazed Ring with Chocolate Frosting and its Hole on Top proving light and fluffy like the Pizza Dough before it while another rolled in Sugar and piped with Lemon Cream trumped any Bombolini in recent memory both in terms of size and levity.
Certainly not leaving without tasting one of Muccis’s celebrated “Doughscuits,” a tough decision between Nutella and Honey Granola made easier by a warning that the latter also featured Chili Oil, suffice it to say that although not as light as the rest this hybrid is every-bit as crave-worthy as the Cronut or Cruffn thanks to substantial layering and plenty of Butter even as the exterior remains virtually oilless.
Like most Midwestern towns a quick survey of the dining landscape clearly indicates that the Twin Cities love their Donuts, and although Glam Doll has long received national attention as the region’s best denizens of St. Paul frequently suggest Mojo Monkey as an alternative thanks to a frequently changing line-up featuring all-natural ingredients and the historical shunning of artificial coloring as well as Trans Fats.
Owned and operated by Lisa Clark since late 2011, a 7th Avenue location near the Mississippi River allowing easy access from both Minneapolis and St. Paul as well as the airport, it was mere moments after opening that the small storefront was found with just a man and his son already inside, Ms. Clark taking a moment away from hand-rolling Dough to offer greetings before another employee provided recommendations that turned a planned order of six into seven with several additional flavors also tempting.
Happy to indulge in a complimentary Cinnamon-Sugar dusted Donut Hole or two while waiting, the shops cheerful soundtrack and a few small tables providing ample reason to stick around and sample Mojo Monkey’s efforts, it was with items unboxed that first bites of a “French Toast” Old Fashioned showed good flavor but an unfortunately dry crumb, a quick transition to the $3.49 Fritter far more impressive thanks to plenty of Fruit plus a crisp exterior that was not overly saturated with Oil.
Priced similar to Glam Doll and other nationally regarded Doughnutteries, a $20.59 total certainly outpacing the likes of Dunkin but largely justified by ingredient quality and a human touch, it was next that attention turned to a pair of Bismarks, the light Brioche pockets filled well by Banana Pudding or Housemade Strawberry Preserves with texture added, respectively, by Nuts and Potato Chips.
Presumably ‘saving the best for last,’ a Chocolate Old Fashioned topped in Cookie Crumbs that was a bit less cakey than its kin though still not great aside, it was with delight that a ring described as “Blueberry Pancake” was found dense with Fruit and bold notes of Maple Syrup while the Tres Leches Cake Donut topped in Raspberries was moist but not soaked and sweet but not overly so.
Located in the sleepy Powderhorn neighborhood of Minneapolis it was prior to opening on Saturday that the car was parked outside A Baker’s Wife, an early arrival straight off the Red-Eye allowing one to witness owners Gary and Margaret Mossberg Tolle plus their team stack shelves and countertops before opening doors to a steady stream of traffic at 6:30am.
Serving locals a variety of baked goods for several decades, an adherence to time-tested techniques yielding some fifty items including loaves of Bread, Bars, Cookies and more seven days a week, it was after allowing a handful of regulars to place well-rehearsed orders that decisions were made, a grand total of just $13.30 yielding more than two pounds of Flour, Sugar and Butter that were taken to a table outside to eat.
Unsurprisingly finding most of the items still warm at such an early hour, two Donuts in particular generating a bit of steam in the damp September air, it was beginning with these that rumors of greatness unfortunately came up short as a result of each ring’s crumbly inside, the flavors otherwise pleasant but still not “great” in comparison to Donut-specific shops while the next taste of two Cookies was far better, the Oatmeal Raisin chewy and moist while a flattened “Russian Tea Ball” cracked crisp but melted on the tongue with a lengthy linger of Butter and Almond Flour.
Certainly not a spot for those counting carbohydrates or calories, though the same can be said of almost any Bakery worth visiting, it was from here that A Baker’s Wife stepped up big time, the Mankato Butter Bar falling somewhere between Chess Pie and Gooey Butter Cake while the Good Morning Bun and famous “American Tea Cake” each go all-in on lamination with the former shellacked in Cinnamon and Sugar while the latter hearkens of Kouign Amann, but with a more Biscuit-like Dough and larger pockets of air.
Warm Valrhona Chocolate Cake – Vanilla Ice Cream / New York-style Cheesecake – Sour Cherry Sorbet / Market Apple Pie – Maple Pecan Ice Cream
Now an annual tradition in its fourth year it was on Saturday night that six guys sat down to Steak, the second consecutive at Jean George Steakhouse and a tasting proposed by Chef Robert Phillips not quite as epic as meals past, but continuing to show why Aria may just posses the best Steakhouse in America directly next to a Brasserie deserving similar accolades.
Always a busy room on weekends, though on this particular night quiet early as other Las Vegas visitors tuned into GGG versus Álvarez part two, it was at precisely 7:30pm that the party was greeted by hostesses, a confirmed reservation leading to seats at a semicircular banquet just outside the Restaurant’s private dining room where music plays less loudly than elsewhere.
Noting both new and old faces amongst a well trained front of house, this evening’s waitress a middle-age Woman whose knowledge of Bourbon went over well with connoisseurs, it was after Water and Drinks were served that palates were readied by seasonal Gazpacho, the up-front Fruit and linger of Basil expectedly refreshing and leading well into warm Brioche meant to be slathered liberally with Herb Butter.
Served family style following a second Amuse of Golden Osetra Caviar atop Meyer Lemon Gelee with Creme Fraiche, approximately three spoonfuls of luxury leading many to wonder whether this or last year’s Egg Toast was better, it was not long after that course one arrived family-style, Foie Gras plus two each of Jean Georges Crispy Sushi and Wagyu Carpaccio gone almost immediately while Salads featuring sweetness, earth, heat and Mint seemed a bit too busy and were decidedly less popular.
At this point slowing down, spoons of Lemon Sorbet offered to cleanse the mouth in preparation of a second course that combined what has typically been offered as separate rounds of Fish and heavier Meats, it was by request that one of JG’s juicy Cheeseburger’s fortified with Wagyu Fat was divided by six, all agreeing that taste and grind rank high amongst the best there is while Sean Griffin’s current Salmon set-up including Citrus and Corn comes across more cohesive than steamed Halibut that is beautifully prepared but a little overwhelmed by intense Green Olive Dressing.
Working with a full table at this point, no new Sides on display but all the old-favorites offered as good as ever with Summer Corn, Crunchy Potatoes and Spuds enriched with Lobster most noteworthy, it was largely passing on Sauces save for Vongerichten’s Soy Miso Butter that Smoked Brisket and Chateaubriand took center stage, the former still turning heads even without tableside carving and remaining unmatched in terms of texture while two Bone-in pounds of Beef from Colorado did not lag far behind as presented medium-rare.
Certainly not missing out on Bone Marrow, two roasted Femurs finished on Toast by those with remaining capacity, it was with Coffee that Dessert was presented, a special request seeing two of the Steakhouse’s world-class Apple Pies arrive on a lengthy plank alongside Jean Georges signature molten Chocolate Cake plus a round of Cheesecake served to the right of a cylinder containing Sour Cherries and smooth Sorbet.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Not as majestic a feast as some at the Aria’s second floor mainstay, stunted pacing and a lack of novel sides making one wonder if Chef Griffin’s time away opening MGM Springfield may have hampered creativity during Las Vegas’ slow season, Jean Georges Steakhouse remains a destination for anyone visiting Las Vegas, though one hopes the team hasn’t let their foot off the gas just because their greatest competitor recently shuttered.
AVOID: Beets & Strawberries needs to lose at least one ingredient while the subtleties of Steamed Halibut get a little lost in the herbaceous Dressing.
TIP: Online Menu is currently up-to-date though with Autumn upcoming changes are likely soon to arrive.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Although it may be hard to recall the last time a local recommended Top of the World as a place for fine dining the fact that it continues to gross $20,000,000.00+ a year clearly indicates tourists believe otherwise, a 4.5/5.0 rating across nearly 6,000 Tripadvisor reviews further attesting to the popularity of dinner with a view that has recently undergone some changes, most notably the hiring of Executive Chef Pawan Pinisetti whose former work at Fiamma inside The MGM Grand speaks not only of an ability to work a big room but also the sort of dedication needed to turn around a Restaurant’s culture.
No doubt a surprise signing in the wake of Chefs Johnny Church and Scott Green, Blake Sartini’s late-2017 purchase of The Stratosphere clearly coming with a mandate to improve the experience across Golden Entertainment’s expanding cadre of Restaurants, it was with no formal announcement or fanfare that Pawan one day began posting pictures of creations including Shellfish and Steak from 106 stories above Las Vegas Boulevard, each progressively more impressive and soon leading to a lunch reservation for four on Saturday.
Now working the property for going on two months, a revamped Menu from Chef Church inherited and certainly upping the ante in terms of product sourcing while at the same time occasionally attracting the ire of longtime customers in search of standbys such as Seafood Alfredo, it was half-past noon that Chef Pinisetti was found working the line of a small kitchen at the center of Top of the World’s rotating room, a convivial pair of hostesses handing guests off to a team of servers who remain attentive to details even though diners may not always be found in the same place they were last seen.
Certainly an extraordinary venue, a panoramic vantage of The Valley and beyond only otherwise experienced by way of a trip to the Sky Lounge or observation deck, it was shortly after seating that Pawan took a short break to say hello and explain the Restaurant’s new focus on “Ingredients with a story,” companies like Ōra King Salmon and Tajima Ranch proudly replacing past commodities without a substantial hike in price though a look at the menu nonetheless sees most Appetizers hovering around $15 with Entrees at least double and occasionally as high as triple digits for Lobster topped with Foie Gras at dinner.
Offering a three course “Power Lunch” for $49 plus plenty of options to fit a variety of dining styles and dietary restrictions it was shortly after receiving four top-shelf Cocktails that dining began with a Basket featuring an equal number of Breads plus Butter brightened by Pistou, the “Parker Rolls” a bit disappointing compared to those at places serving them warm from the pan while both a Multigrain Roll and herbal Focaccia fared much better.
Impressed by the beverage program, a fruit-forward approach to each Vodka-based selection creating deceptively easy sippers that could get a lightweight into trouble, it was not long before an amuse of off-menu Lobster Tacos arrived to whet guest’s palates, each of two bites light and elegant with only a touch of Salt plus Citrus used to amplify the Crustacean’s sweet flavor.
Moving next into menu items, John Church’s time at Aureole bringing a version of Chef Palmer’s “Super Food Vinaigrette” to the other end of The Strip atop crisp Greens and thinly sliced Root Vegetables, it was in follow-up that a flaky Crab Cake with almost no binder served as an introduction to two additional sea creatures, the Australian Lobster propped up on Pommes Puree even more impressive than that at Bardot a day prior thanks to a mélange of Mushrooms and more luxurious Sauce while true King Salmon from New Zealand justified its price and accolades by not just melting across the tongue but also impressing several diners who had never previously considered Salmon nor Fennel particularly enjoyable.
Continuing to share a new narrative by way of Beef, two ethically raised breeds imported from Australia prepared medium-rare largely a matter of personal preference as to whose texture was more enjoyable, it was occasionally using one of three housemade Sauces that each bite slowly disappeared, the Cheese Fondue particularly indulgent but even better utilized as an addition to Top of The World’s buttery Mashed Potatoes.
Happy to see another Aureole-inspired dish created to satisfy Vegans, ribbons of Squash largely indistinguishable from al dente Pasta topped in vibrant Marinara plus subtly-truffled “Cheese” also a making an excellent side dish for those seeking something healthy and unique, it was additionally with Truffles that Top of The World’s Creamed Corn was topped, the ‘cream’ itself not quite as prominent as purists might like but the flavor still pleasant.
Always excited for Dessert, particularly having seen some recent Social Media shares of Top of The World’s revamped collection, it was fortified by Espresso that four of five options were selected, the New York Cheesecake true to its origin in terms of density, crumble and taste while Crème Brulee got an ever-popular Salted Caramel upgrade but otherwise retained its characteristic texture.
Assuredly saving “the best for last,” an extra two bucks compared to alternatives more than justified by portions best shared, suffice it to say that for $28 plus tax and tip a couple can obtain views equal to a trip to the top for approximately the same price plus two of Las Vegas’ best classic Desserts, the towering Chocolate Cake so moist and rich that few could finish it solo while an equally tall Baked Alaska comes without tableside fire but makes up for it with luxurious Ice Cream that stands up to torching atop a buttery base of Streusel.
FOUR STARS: At this point best seen as ‘in transition,’ classics beloved by fans of the ambiance cut in favor of more simple presentations focused on product, Top of The World remains a place most will still visit primarily for the view but no longer should it be a Restaurant gourmands roll their eyes at because despite “Strip pricing” the sourcing and cooking is ready to rival many of Las Vegas’ top tables.
RECOMMENDED: Grin and Pear It, Bada Bing, Local Mixed Greens Salad, Lobster Thermidor, Ōra King Salmon, Tajima Ranch Wagyu Shirt Steak, Truffle Gouda Cheese Fondue, 21 Layer Chocolate Cake, Baked Alaska.
AVOID: Parker Rolls are not fluffy enough, Creamed Corn needs less “Truffle” and more Cream, Red Wine Reduction tastes like A1.
TIP: Trips to the top of The Stratosphere are currently $18 per adult plus extra for rides…take that into consideration when considering Top of The World where one gets the same vantage in comfortable seats without wind and sun.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Beef Wellington for Two – 14oz USDA Prime Filet, Prosciutto di Parma, Puff Pastry, Mushroom Duxelles, Foie Gras-Madeira Veloute, Pommes Souffle
Double Espresso – Ice
Peanut Butter Tart – Peanut Butter Cream, Dark Chocolate Shell, Honeycomb
Chocolate Macaron – French Chocolate Cookie, Dark Chocolate Mousse
Baked Alaska – Banana Rum Ice Cream Cake, Roasted Pineapple and Toasted Meringue
Espresso Crème Brulee – Beignets
Buckwheat Sable – White Chocolate
Having already asserted several times that Bardot at Aria is America – if not the World’s – most innovative and delicious Brasserie it was as a group of eight that dinner was enjoyed in Friday night, the late-Summer Menu that Chef Josh Smith feels may be his best yet once again thrilling an array of guests including first timers and repeat customers with a wide variety of backgrounds in terms of both culinary and cultural experience.
Now approaching anniversary number four with a full head of steam, Michael Mina’s replacement for American Fish showing good market sense from the very beginning as a fascination with traditional French cuisine has since spread Los Angeles to New York and from NOLA as far North as Minneapolis, it was with friendly greetings from familiar managers and servers that the party was led to one long table in the more secluded space right of Bardot’s main dining room, a young woman named Andrea assuring everything went smoothly over the next two and a half hours.
Still as stunning a space as it was on day one, the gleaming bar and kitchen visible through glass both eliciting awe from guests prior to seating, it was after brief perusal of a Cocktail list and menus that Champagne was poured, Cart blanch deference to Chef Smith and his team soon to deliver two styles of Bread plus “the World’s best Butter” before seventeen plates divided over three courses.
Warned to go light on crunchy Baguettes in order to preserve appetites, the majority taking heed even though creamy Butter and coarse Sea Salt compelled otherwise, it was no more than fifteen minutes after seating that feasting commenced, old favorites such as the housemade Pate with Pork Rillettes and imported Salami expectedly going over well while Escargots Bardot quickly made fans of those who’d never previously even considered eating a Snail.
Introducing many to another new ingredient next, leaves of Belgian Endive topped generously with King Crab used as individual ‘scoops’ to deliver a mix of sweet Meat, Bread Crumbs and briny Aioli, it was in the form of another desirable Crustacean that Chef Smith’s first new stunner arrived, classic Lobster Thermidor here offered as an appetizer if for no other reason than because he can and dazzling by way of light smoke from the grill plus plenty of melted Comte and fragrant Crème Dijonnaise.
Taking a short break before the next wave, several hours of Craps and day-drinking affecting some diners while others were merely hitting stride, it was after a tableside presentation of Bardot Brasserie’s new Duck Press that course two got started, a use of Blood clearly frowned upon by the health department and thus replaced by Raspberry Sauce Chambord over rosy Breast Meat and crispy Eggplant with seasonal Squash while another piece of Duck was graciously offered by special request atop a fluffy block of the traditionally Brunch-only French Toast.
Happy to see Bardot’s upright Macaroni next, the amusement on first-timers’ faces only matched by the deliciousness of thick Bechamel and baked Mimolette, it was as Panisse and Peppers lightly fried in Chickpea Flour were passed around that many’s favorite dish of the evening arrived, Prime Rib from Creekstone Farms pulling no punches in terms of grade or color with every bite of two servings including the Fat soon gone and the Cromesquis themselves also making a strong impression as some wondered aloud why they are not additionally offered as a side dish.
At this point assured of leftovers, a half-Chicken at each end of the table twice seeing guests accustomed to eating meals of Brown Rice and Broccoli wonder why their baked Breasts never turn out nearly so juicy, it was with all of the Bread Pudding devoured that attention turned to another Mushroom side, the new addition cooked in Wine atop garlicky Polenta as rich as it is comforting while “Basque Creamed Corn” may not seem French, though little will most care after popping the Egg and taking the first of what will likely become several bites.
Not letting up the pace or even pumping the brakes to finish, Chef Smith stepping away from the bustling kitchen to carve twenty-eight ounces of the best Beef Wellington tasted too date tableside, it was only after lengthy respite and Coffee that the meal concluded with Dessert, a personal preference for one of everything wisely voted down by others who’d tapped out prior thus seeing double servings of Bardot’s famous Chocolate Macaron and Espresso Crème Brulee plus the flaming Baked Alaska and two off-menu works in progress including Buckwheat Sables and a Peanut Butter Tart that would probably fit the concept better with Hazelnuts, though if one can convince Josh to serve this creamy concoction lightly sweetened by Honeycomb as it currently stands they by all means should.
FIVE STARS: Having repeatedly challenged fellow gourmands to name a better Brasserie in North America than Bardot Brasserie someone finally stepped up to suggest Minneapolis’ Grand Cafe, but before flying up there this week to see if there is any validity to the claim it was with old friends in attendance that Chef Smith once again delivered a lights out performance, so for now suffice it to say Chef Jamie Malone and team have their work cut out for them in Minnesota.
RECOMMENDED: Charcuterie Board, Lobster Thermidor, Foie Gras French Toast, Macaroni & Mimolette Gratinee, Duck Printaniere a la Presse, Mushrooms and Polenta, Basque Creamed Corn, Beef Wellington for Two, Chocolate Macaron, Baked Alaska.
AVOID: N/A, though Peanut Butter Pie and Sables have yet to officially debut.
TIP: In addition to Dinner and the Strip’s best Brunch BARDOT is now open for lunch Monday through Friday 11am-2:30pm.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Originally founded in 2013 by Jay Yim who first witnessed liquid nitrogen Ice Cream nearly a decade prior in South Korea it was in early August that Creamistry finally opened in Las Vegas, the franchise that has been growing out of Irvine California since 2014 now totaling over sixty stores including one in China with exponential expansion planned over the next several years.
Unsurprisingly selecting the rapidly growing Southwest to set up shop, a storefront at 7325 South Rainbow Boulevard joining imports such as Metro Diner as well as locally developed ideas such as Jinju Chocolates, The Goodwich and Fuku Burger in close proximity, guests entering Creamistry will no doubt first notice its simple layout, bright whites and polished surfaces, an Instagram-friendly look popular with many new eateries that here seems even more fitting than most as most diner’s eyes will be focused on the action at the counter anyway.
Using basic chemistry plus a bit of showmanship to sell the concept, each customer choosing their portion size, then an ice cream base plus one of nearly thirty flavors plus toppings and a la carte additions, it was after a bit of indecision that an order was concocted, three different bases selected for three entirely different experiences ranging $6.45 to $10.50.
Always made-to-order, even the Brownies and Waffle Bowls baked on-site to assure freshness, it is immediately upon ordering and settling the bill that patrons are asked to step left and watch their order be produced, a billow of smoke emitted as -321°F meets base to produce a texture that is homogenously smooth throughout, the signature “Premium” base particularly noteworthy as a result of its ability to coat the tongue and slowly dissipate while the Vegan Coconut possesses more viscosity, almost like that of a toasted Marshmallow.
Focusing next on flavor, the mellow sweetness of Taro unfortunately compromised by an unmistakable undertone of Coconut while $2 extra for a thin Chocolate Shell seems excessive, it was instead turning attention to lightly salted Caramel that provided a good idea of what Creamistry is capable of, the Rice Krispie Treat-style Cookies both sweet and highly enjoyable with additional flavors including Fruity Pebbles available while a “Creation” called Quantum Coffee is an Ice Cream Parfait any Java lover can get behind thanks to sharp bitterness that finds its foil in crumbled Heath Bar, Whipped Cream and Caramel.
FOUR STARS: Although prices average a bit higher than the best local gelato shops and several-fold more than Thrifty or Fro-yo there is a substantial increase in quality to be found at Creamistry, the fact that dining comes with a “show” largely just a hook while the real draw is in how the Ice Cream feels and tastes.
The Chicken Caesar Salad – Roasted Chicken, Romaine Lettuce, Shaved Parmesan Cheese, Caesar Dressing, Herb and Garlic Torn Croutons
The Roasted Sweet Potatoes – Caramelized Red Onions, Maple Syrup (front)
The Peanut Butter-Snickerdoodle Cookie
The Pumpkin Spice Cookie
The Strawberry Cookie
The Bacon Jam Scone
The Blueberry Coffee Cake
With several new Vegan Menus joining the offerings of Restaurants across the nation it seems pertinent to remember that such things were already available long before it became trendy, a fact that Bronze Café has never heavily advertised whether in The Center or now at The Market because of a loyal clientele that seeks them out even though many denizens of DTLV still seem oblivious to the fact that such a great place exists right under their noses.
Now part of the downtown scene for going on two years and still operated by Chef Peter Bastien and Manager David Mozes, a willingness to cater at distances further than the average making Bronze Café’s healthy fare a favorite for #supportlocal lunch twice prior, it was this time via EZCater that an order tallying $15 per person was arranged with David arriving just prior to the designated hour, a collection of Sandwiches, Salads and Desserts once again well received by a diverse crowd of staff and speakers.
Focusing on old favorites as well as some new flavors, the online menu not nearly as diverse as on-site since much of Chef Bastien’s daily selection is based on farm-fresh Produce and Pastry specials plus an expanded Dinner and Brunch, it was with everything labeled and unloaded that many attendees first delved into one of two Salads, the Chicken Caesar favored by some with several particularly fond of spicy Croutons while others raved the Thai Peanut Noodle Salad which goes all-in on texture with roasted Broccoli set against a backdrop of Noodles, fried Shallots and Garlic plus fresh Vegetables ready to be tossed in thick Peanut Sauce.
Moving next to Sammiches, three previously tasted favorites joined by one Vegan option by request, it remains fact that there is no better Sandwich Bread than Bronze’s Ciabatta when it comes to standing up against complex ingredients without becoming compromised, the California Turkey leading one first-timer to exclaim “finally a place that doesn’t skimp on Avocado” while the LGBTQ again disappeared quickly leaving many to taste the Vegan “Guac & Mole” that although meatless certainly packs a lot of depth and flavor.
Not one to pass up Dessert under any circumstance, particularly from a kitchen that has continuously improved over time, it was with a slightly smaller collection than previously that this meal ended thanks to budget, a moist Blueberry Coffee Cake the only new item and a worthy choice thanks to a hearty Whole Grain base and plenty of Berries, but still not quite enough to steer one away from buttery Scones layered in Bacon Jam or Cookies including soft Strawberry-centered rounds, year-round Pumpkin Spice or The Peanut Butter-Snickerdoodle which remains one of the five best Baked Goods in Sin City.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone Bronze Café at The Market was doing Vegan long before it became ‘cool’ and remains ready to dazzle guests whether they choose to Veg-out or indulge in Desserts and Bacon Jam.
RECOMMENDED: The LGBTQ Sammich, The California Turkey Sammich, Peanut Butter Snickerdoodle, The Thai Peanut Noodle Salad, Strawberry Cookie, Pumpkin Spice Cookie, Bacon Jam Scone.
AVOID: The Roasted Sweet Potatoes aren’t necessarily bad, but better thought of as a snack food to be eaten like Popcorn than as a side dish.
TIP: Located inside The Market at 611 Fremont Street from 7:30a till 11p daily and 24-hr Saturday through to Sunday Night. Catering available via several sites including EZCater, Grubhub and Delivery.com.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
To say that a first visit to Shiraz Restaurant was eye opening would be an understatement, the diverse menu of Indian and Persian specialties cooked by Chef Jainine Jaffer frequently improving upon previously tasted versions of the same and occasionally offering flavors never experienced prior, thus it was as a group of thirteen that Dinner was sat down to on Saturday night with a wide range of cultural backgrounds represented and not one unimpressed by a four course spread served over 150 minutes.
Now open under new ownership for two months, the former home of Habib’s given a fresh coat of paint and new linens under the management of Origin India’s Raja Abdul Majid, it was shortly after 6:30pm that the whole Baker’s dozen was seated at a lengthy table where share plates awaited, a prix fixe arranged by Chef Jaffer ready to be served family style and many electing to enjoy their meal with Cocktails or housemade Ginger Ale from mixologist Jozef Letasi.
Truly a striking space, everything from statues to etchings combined with comfortable seats and good lighting creating the sort of place well-suited for groups while even live music from the stage is never particularly loud, it was as conversation began amongst friends new and old that housemade Barbari Bread was presented, the cold Butter largely ignored in the setting of creamy Hummus prior to all receiving a crispy Papadum served alongside tangy Tamarind and fiery Mint Chutney.
Happy to offer a mix of dishes from each section of the menu in sharable portions, a total of two to three of each actual serving size enough to sate all present and generate several pounds of leftovers, it was with even those leery of Eggplant’s texture finding enjoyment in Kash Bademjan that two large platters presented the night’s first show-stopper, a mixed plate of lightly fried Fish and Chicken from the Tandoor both offering good spice while large Samosas stuffed with fragrant Potatoes and Peas were crisp and delicate instead of oily and heavy like those found on most Indian Buffets around town.
At this point resetting plates and serviceware, an inevitable blending of sauces nonetheless soon to follow, it was along with fluffy Naan and Basmati Rice that plates of Tahdig were offered as a bed to two styles Kabob plus grilled Tomatoes, the ground Sirloin of Chelo Koobideh expectedly a favorite of all from children to septuagenarians while Chicken Breast prepared simply with Shallots and Onion Juice plus mixed Herbs was as juicy rewarmed the next day as it was hot off the grill.
At this point already seeing some getting full, the temptations of both soft Bread and flavorful Proteins causing many to grab seconds even though a whole round of Stews remained, suffice it to say that Raja and Jainine did not let up in serving a total of six bowls at each end of the table, Nihari in thick Gravy quickly finding favor amongst those fond of heat while Chicken Tikka Masala provided comfortable familiarity with a particularly long linger thanks to what seemed like more Cream than versions tasted previously.
Setting aside plenty of space for Fesenjan, the Iranian specialty of shredded Chicken with Pomegranate Molasses and Ground Walnuts undoubtedly this well-traveled diner’s favorite culinary discovery of 2018, it was certainly not without also eating several spoonfuls of Ghormeh Sabzi that savories concluded both Indian and Vegetarian, a bowl of Aloo Gobi offering pleasant heat and great consistency while Palak Paneer was more enjoyable than others in Las Vegas thanks to more of the springy Cheese and beyond-Steakhouse smooth Spinach Puree.
Told by Mr. Majid at the last visit that Chef Jaffer’s French training provided her with a keen eye for Pastry, her Galub Jamun again more firm and texturally pleasing than any other in town, it was as a special treat that she also constructed an off-menu Cake for the party, the idea of Baklava here presented warm from a Bundt pan with a Greek Yogurt yielding plenty of moisture even before honeyed Syrup and Nuts were ladled over the top.
FIVE STARS: Now the third encounter with Chef Jaffer’s Cuisine in a month, both small and large groups plus off-site catering all delivering great results under the watchful eye of Raja Abdul Majid, it can safely be said that Shiraz is truly a Restaurant unlike any other in Las Vegas and one that many will hopefully continue to discover and return to for many years to come.
TIP: See Shiraz’s Facebook page at www.facebook.com/ShirazLasVegas for an upcoming list of events or stop by Saturday nights for live music, bites and drinks in the lounge. For catering, Email the Restaurant directly or take a look at EZCater for added convenience.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Now a regular member of the #supportlocal lunch rotation in addition to its long-term candidacy for the 702’s best Breakfast it was as a party of three that another trip was made from the west side to CRAFTkitchen, a drive down Fort Apache Road passing right by the likes of Café Breizh, Toast Society, Neighbors and Panera before hopping on the 215 East for Jaret and Tami Blinn’s little spot in Henderson serving “Food with personality delivered by people with passion.”
At this point no longer a local secret, anniversary number three upcoming in October and weekends still featuring lines a testament to the sort of community CRAFTkitchen has fostered through good old fashioned hard work and word of mouth since day one, it was after a few moments wait at the podium as familiar Staff circulated that a four top beneath paintings by the Blinn’s daughter was readied, an #everchangingbrunch now in its 141st week again offering all sorts of new enticements alongside old favorites.
Taken care of by a previously unseen waitress, though an assist from Troi who is now back in action plus a woman who introduced herself as the new “dining room manager” helped overcome a few small gaffs, it was with Coffee poured and kept brimming that Breakfast began predictably with Pastries, Jaret’s Valley-best Monkey Bread as compelling as ever thanks to crunch adjacent fluffiness beneath molten Cinnamon Frosting while the day’s Kouign Amann featured layers of its own laden with Butter and topped with dollop of housemade Port Fig Jam.
Clearly signaling the end of Summer with the arrival of Pumpkin, Beth Ryan-Small’s impeccable Scones previously sold at Mothership here a bit smaller but every bit as worthwhile thanks to a crumbly texture that is never dry, it was as diners were finishing up a springy Maple Pecan Muffin that course two began, Jaret’s Savory Pancakes from July brought back by special request almost certainly worth cancelling alternative weekend plans for when they return as the tall stack of five walks a tightrope balancing bits of Corn and Bacon against Maple, Cheese and Tomato.
Next taking spoonfuls of CRAFTkitchen’s oft-praised Chia Pudding, an ingredient whose sometimes challenging texture is here made smoother by Coconut Milk before adding Granola and Berries for contrast, it was as fresh-cut Sweet Potato Fries with Maple Bacon Aioli were being enjoyed that more Berries joined the mix, a fourth Gluten-Free item fresh from the Waffle iron featuring crisp edges and plenty of Blueberries in their juice with freshly Whipped Cream and light hints of Citrus.
Unintentionally testing Vegan waters next with “classic” French Toast, the 100% Pure Maple Syrup helping add moisture to Bread that is fine but certainly not comparable to that made with Eggs or Milk, it was with most of this set aside that attention turned to Chef Blinn’s Crème Brûlée-stuffed version, each bite rich and comforting thanks to thick-cut slices of Texas Toast seared golden before filling with Vanilla Bean Custard and topping with a Cream, Syrup and a layer of Sugar that’s been torched.
Never receiving a requested Crab Cake Benedict, the server almost certainly flustered by six loud Nurses taking full advantage of Bottomless Mimosas one table over, it was instead here that new and old Desserts quelled any remaining hunger, the Gluten Free Cookie actually outperforming its delicious sibling thanks to chewy Oatmeal while a Milk Chocolate “Shooter” was also enjoyable, though it would be pretty difficult to steal the spotlight from either a Chocolate Raspberry Macaron or CRAFTkitchen’s fine-dining level Carrot Cake.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Having undergone a few recent staff changes with noticeable impact one hopes that service issues will be remedied quickly because with Autumn approaching and the patio likely soon full CRAFTkitchen’s Food and the almost limitless creativity in both Sweets and Savories deserve a front of house equal to the Women and Men in the Kitchen.
AVOID: Only ardent Vegans need consider the “classic” French Toast so long as the Crème Brûlée version is offered.
TIP: With the Holidays coming up consider CRAFTkitchen for both off-site catering and buyouts, because at least one night in December is already spoken for.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Dark Chocolate Tart – Caramelized Nuts, Vanilla Ice Cream, Sea Salt
To call Esther’s Kitchen a smash hit at this point would undersell the Restaurant’s impact, native son James Trees’ return to Las Vegas providing gas to a smoldering fire of rejuvenation near downtown at 1130 South Casino Center Boulevard near Main Street.
Open now for over eight months and still packed on most nights, Chef Trees’ commitment to quality at an accessible price-point evident from day one and only improving with time, it was as a party of seven including six first timers that seats were taken in front of an open kitchen, the ‘theme’ of the night technically business but most of that accounted for quickly or taking place between bites of twenty menu items.
Not a fan of “tasting menus” per se, but happy to take and make recommendations for a large party based on budget, it was essentially with carte blanche to James and his Staff that nearly three hours of dining commenced at 6:40pm with all of Esther’s seats filled, a focus of Food instead of Wine or Spirits beginning with Iced Tea and Water kept full without request plus the first of two Loaves of Sourdough Bread served with condiments including briny Anchovy Butter plus creamy Burrata in Basil Oil that a speaker from California was particularly fond of.
Truly a mixed group, Chinese, Indian, Filipino, Vietnamese and mixed Caucasian backgrounds all represented, it was next that two boards of Charcuterie and Cheese were sent out along with Pickles, stewed Fruit, Toast and Butter, the Chicken Liver Mousse and Prosciutto quickly gone while those who took a chance on bright orange ‘Nduja marveled at the balance of heat and spices in a form they’d previously not encountered.
Finding even more timid eaters surprisingly open to plates that often contain several ingredients, though a watchful eye did notice some carefully picking Tomatoes away from raw Tuna that was silky smooth and smartly paired to cracked Hazelnuts, suffice it to say that none were shy when devouring three plates of Meatballs that several concluded were the best they’d ever tasted, a bed of green Ricotta and simple Tomato Sauce showcasing rich flavor amongst the finely ground center.
Amused by “all the things” as part of Esther’s Kitchen’s Chop Salad, a bit of heat and undisclosed spots of sweetness creating complexity where no two bites are alike, it was with nearly half the table unsure about Beets that each carefully took a spoonful or Chef Trees’ oft-praised Gnudi, only one sticking to her guns that Beets taste “dirty” though even she was more than happy to take a second Ricotta-stuffed Dumpling when she was certain everyone else had their fill.
Technically already served a Pasta dish, though a resetting of share plates at this point officially signaled the start of course two, it was here that two new plates plus one old favorites would see diners in awe of just how creative Noodles can be, tiny Agolotti plated next to fresh Corn in tangy Brown Butter a reminder of Summers back home while Trees’ Cacio e Pepe remains every bit as simple and delicious as it should be.
At this point seeing those of smaller appetites sated, large portions of smoky Pasta topped in a Ragu of Pork and Mushrooms just as robust as they sound, it was in follow-up to this that another course began, the Porchetta now served with appropriate serviceware to crack through Skin remaining a worthy “signature” entrée although Organic Chicken from Mary’s Farm is also quite impressive with its current setup as a Panzanella Salad featuring fruity Sauce and Cornbread.
Not yet close to finished, even those committed to “saving room for Dessert” tempted by meaty Sea Bass atop softened Farro and warm Lettuce, it was admittedly a bit surprising when several stated they were not familiar with Polenta before scooping some onto their plate, comparisons to everything from Cream of Wheat “but way better” to “Heaven” both accurate though the best description should probably have something to do with the definition of Comfort Food that somehow eats just as well in Summer as it did in Winter.
At this point seeing an 8-top filled from edge-to-edge, a length of Octopus thankfully left with some chew quickly divided and devoured with all who partook praiseful of the smoky-sweet taste, it was with limited capacity that a choice was made to finish with Pizza over Spicy Squid Ink Pasta, a little time on the oven now yielding an even better char on Crust that marries well to toppings like Sausage and Fennel tinged with Citrus but even better to crispy Pork and runny Eggs plus the combined sweetness of cooked Onions and Saba.
Still not offering Coffee or Espresso with Dessert, though those seeking Italian Digestifs such as Amaro will find plenty to choose from, suffice it to say that a personal distaste for Mint left Esther’s only new Dessert for others after one bite while dinner and conversation both came to a finish with a Dark Chocolate Tart now slightly sweeter thanks to Ice Cream and Caramelized Nuts plus Chef Trees’ peerless Butterscotch Budino that he claims has been mellowed, though to fans of Scotch as well as typical teetotalers there still seems to be plenty of Booze to be found.
FIVE STARS: Simply put, and based on a not insignificant amount of travel, if Esther’s Kitchen were located in New York, Chicago or Washington DC it would be every bit as popular as here in Las Vegas and undoubtedly a Michelin Bib Gourmand recipient, the fact that dinners with “foodie” friends as well as those with little dining experience were equally successful a testament to Chef Trees understanding of what it takes run a successful Restaurant without straying from the passion and craft that makes his Food remarkable.
Originally visited in August 2017 at a location near UNLV it was for #supportlocal lunch’s 4-month anniversary that Vic Vegas’s Sinful Subs was selected, their new location at 5135 South Fort Apache Road sending out a spread that was not only better than what was tasted in store, but doing it in a timely manner with everything including serviceware provided.
Now in the same plaza as Sweet Addiction, ACE Donuts and Squeeze-In for a few months, an opening hour of 10:30am and simple online ordering via EZcater or GrubHub streamlining the process for both speakers and attendees, it was approximately ten minutes prior to requested 11:30am delivery that a man sporting his Sinful Subs shirt made the first of three trips up an elevator, a $15 per person budget going a long way and many staff later taking home leftovers.
Having not yet actually visited the Westside Brick and Mortar, but finding a few discrepancies between EZcater’s listing and Sinful Subs’ current online menu, it was using Facebook Messenger to troubleshoot twelve hours in advance that a total of five Sandwich styles, one Salad, Chips and Dessert were brought in containers assuring appropriate temperatures, the first taste for many a bed of leafy Greens topped like a Caprese with ingredient quality immediately evident whether it be sliced Tomatoes and Motz or housemade Croutons and tangy Dressing.
Leaving bagged Chips for others, though some did find their way into the meal by way of crumbles used to top a particularly fun Sandwich called “Trail-Errrr,” it was on request that the menu-listed Hot Dog described as fried Bologna on EZcater was replaced by Ham, the combination of melted Mozzarella and Mac n’ Cheese plus crispy Potatoes creating a messy upgrade on the lunchtime classic that is best navigated by fork and knife but definitely worth checking out for those not counting Carbohydrates.
Sporting sizes that are most certainly sharable for all but the largest appetites, each toasty Roll jam-packed to the point of bursting with Meat and Cheese, it was next that the Italian-style Knuckle Sandwich was tasted and found to still be moist with Mayonnaise left off, the same ingredients offered by Tom-Schmootz here upgraded by Salami, Ham and Pep while the warm Pastram-Bomb with Mustard on the side fared even better thanks to both herbaceous and smoky Pastrami plus “smooshed” Fries.
Not a place for shortcuts despite low prices, the Meatballs atop “Baller” handmade and Chicken Breast for Sinful Subs version of Chicken Parm breaded and fried to order, it largely comes down to personal preference whether either of these saucy options is better than the other but either way it is probably best not to fill up so one can also sneak some lightly-fried Funnel Cake with Marshmallow Dipping Sauce into the order.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone the team at Sinful Subs put together an excellent lunch for approximately the same price as many national chains despite Sandwiches that are both more interesting and labor intensive, the lone issue of EZcater’s list being a little out of date hopefully something easy remedied so that next time the group can taste a few additional Sandwiches.
AVOID: Mayonnaise, especially on the Trail-Errrr, seems unnecessary.
TIP: Check out Instagram or in-store for the recently debuted “Poorman’s Menu offering Grilled Cheese, Hot Dog or Pizza Bread plus Chips and a Soda for just $5.54 plus tax.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
With Metro Pizza long setting a high standard and John Arena’s tireless dedication to the craft helping turn Las Vegas into a Pizza destination also featuring the likes of Good Pie, Pizza Rock and Naked City it should go without saying that a phrase like “da best you have ever eaten in your life!” should fall under close scrutiny, and on Tuesday night Rockin Rice Puddin & NY Pizza proved to be better than it needs to be but certainly oversold in comparison to at least five other Pizzerias in Sin City.
Owned and operated by a man named Joe for the last six weeks, his thick accent while describing Slices laid out behind glass leaving no question of New York roots, it is all the way toward the back of Las Vegas Boulevard’s Hawaiian Marketplace that one will find the two-in-one concept, current hours from 11am until as late as four o’clock in the morning on weekends certainly showing commitment though considering the half-abandoned surroundings including vagrants and drug pushers one does question the plaza’s typical clientele.
Certainly not a bad idea considering the presence of both Slice shops and a whole store dedicated to Rice Pudding in Manhattan, though Rockin Rice Puddin’s claim of “over 50 flavors!” is as exaggerated as their assertion of “da best,” it was with several ‘deals’ suggested via Social Media found unavailable and prices approximately $1 per slice more than advertised on the website that an order was arranged, $32.46 exchanged for four rewarmed Slices plus one fresh one and about twelve ounces of Pudding.
Taking a seat outdoors after sampling a few additional flavors of Rice, the texture thick and creamy with brightly colored Black Raspberry a standout, it was as two disheveled men danced to Ludacris being played at a nearby kiosk that first tastes investigated the Grandma slice, a style recently popularized by Vincent Rotolo up the road at Good Pie that is appropriately crispy at Rockin Rice Puddin & NY Pizza but far less light and completely lacking a cornicione which speaks to a lack of leavening.
Moving next to several New York Slices, another style improved upon locally in recent years at Evel Pie, Pin Up and Five-50, one immediately questions the promise of “fresh ingredients” when picking up Pepperoni or Cheese that spill grease, though on tasting the base does pick up a bit of smoke from the oven that marries nicely to vibrant Tomato Sauce that thankfully lacks sweetness in favor of Herbs and acidity.
Disappointed to see no Sicilians, a wait of “probly twenty minutes” too much with temperatures pushing 100ᵒF in the shade, it was instead to an admittedly great White Slice made creamy with Ricotta and fragrant with Garlic that attention turned, its follow-up of Buffalo Chicken unfortunately not nearly as noteworthy as the Meat was dry and Blue Cheese thin in comparison to what Michael and Christopher Palmeri offer at Naked City.
Rounding out the sampling with three styles of Rice, approximately $1 per ounce but a bit cheaper with larger portions, suffice it to say that fans of Peanut Butter should look no further than creamy spoonfuls that taste exactly like the real deal without all the heft while Crème Brulee is more mellow and balanced than English Toffee or Caramel, though not quite as enjoyable as Cookies and Cream that not only tastes a lot like an Oreo but also succeeds in terms of adding Cookies without compromising texture.
TWO STARS: Starting off on the wrong foot by overselling its products and then taking a bait n’ switch approach to pricing Rockin Rice Puddin & NY Pizza seems unlikely to please anyone who has actually done their research, though in a derelict plaza with paid parking that is difficult to access from across The Strip it seems most likely that the target audience is probably not that sort of person in the first place.
RECOMMEDED: White Pie, Peanut Butter Rice Pudding, Cookies and Cream Rice Pudding.
Les Saint-Jacques – Hokkaido Scallop, Black Tie, Brick Dough, Spinach Puree, Perigourdine Sauce
Le Pates – Fresh Cavatelli, Black Truffles, Dill, Mustard Seed
La Joue de Veau – Veal Trilogy of Chop, Cheek, Potato wrapped Sweetbread, Garlic Butter, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Baby Vegetables
Le Fromage – Goat Cheese Flan, Red Wine Reduction, Chives
Le Pre-Dessert – Watermelon and Lychee “Explosion,” Cacao Butter
Double Espresso – Ice
Les Ananas – White Chocolate Mousse, Roasted Pineapple, Coconut Ice Cream, Marigold
Le Parfait à la Framboise – Raspberry, Crème Fraiche Ice Cream, Pistachios, Lychee, Strawberry Sauce
Le Cirque – Beet Red Velvet Cake, Mascarpone Cheese, Raspberries
Les Mignardises – Pistachio Macaron, Chocolate Macaron, Passionfruit Macaron, Caramel Macaron, Cassis Pate de Fruit, Vanilla Guimauve
Chocolat – Hazelnut, Pistachio
While most likely believe Food to have a restorative effect, not merely nutritionally but equally in terms of mood, the same might also be said of dining in the right place with the right people and after a particularly difficult month it seemed only right to start September anew with an old favorite, the cuisine of Alan Mardonovich and service from Ivo Angelov at Le Cirque offering both comfort and refinement on Saturday just as it has to all who’ve entered for nearly thirty years.
Continuing to add new accolades with regularity, the space often described as a “jewel box” once again at capacity on Labor Day weekend even as other resort Restaurants languish, it was with warm greetings that three guests including one in a wheelchair were welcomed in the foyer before making way to a large table overlooking Bellagio’s fountains, a special menu made up for the evening a particularly nice touch speaking to the benefits of being a ‘regular.’
Happy to defer dinner to a kitchen who has certainly earned such trust, though any visitor with the time would be well advised to indulge in one of Chef Mardonovich’s many tastings, it was with alcohol declined that the evening began with Tea and Bread service, the Pretzel Roll missing in March now returned and as good as ever though the five available flavors are still highlighted by a warm Loaf fragrant with Coffee and Chocolate.
Coursed out slowly with quiet music playing overhead, the din of the room subdued even as many in attendance were celebrating, it was eschewing the famous Crab in its Shell that Alan started the evening with similar ingredients atop Shellfish Gel, the resultant effect one of dissipating brine with sweetness developing in its wake and light notes of Apple lingering alongside Caviar at the end.
Focusing on flavors of Summers that last long in Las Vegas, a “Tomato Fantasy” of several textures next placing Vegetarian Tartare beneath smoked Cheese alongside Watermelon balls, it was in follow-up to this beautiful plate that Mardonovich would offer thinly sliced Langoustine as the base to various ingredients, each bite entirely different from the last and those featuring curls of Melon or pearls of Finger Lime particularly thrilling.
Next producing a classic on request, Daniel Boulud’s “Scallop Black Tie” slightly re-imagined in a single layer of Pastry atop Spinach Puree with rich Sauce Perigourdine added tableside, it was amidst housemade Pasta that more Truffles were subsequently offered, the complex interplay of these summer specimens with Dill Oil and Mustard Seeds something never seen before but the effect surprisingly quite balanced considering the heft of each individual component.
At this point seeing the crowd somewhat thinned thanks to showtimes, though a second wave of guests would soon arrive to fill most empty seats, it was on a classic plate that Chef Mardonovich opted to place three cuts of Veal including braised Cheek and Offal wrapped in crisp Potato threads, the richness tempered by a yellow Sauce lively with Herbs plus baby Root Vegetables and tender Trumpet Mushrooms.
Creating a plated Cheese course for the evening, a deep vessel with three spoonfuls of Flan topped in crispy Chives and bathed in sweet Red Wine an elegant transition from savory to sweet, it was next from an illuminated base of Ice that individual Bon Bons were plucked to flood the palate with refreshing liquid, a Double Espresso also prepared to accompany the evening’s grand finale.
Rare to forgo Le Cirque’s Chocolate Soufflé, though on a night toasting new beginnings it seemed most appropriate to partake in only novel dishes, it was with subtle modifications that the pastry team’s Raspberry Parfait came across creamy and elegant surrounded by fresh Strawberry Sauce while a dish of White Chocolate Mousse with Roasted Pineapples doubled down on Tropical flavors by way of Coconut Ice Cream plus toasted flesh beneath.
Finishing with Mignardises, though not to be forgotten is a reprise of 2016’s edible painting atop Red Velvet Cake that has now achieved signature status by way of an image titled Le Cirque from Musée d’Orsay, it was with take-home Chocolates in hand that the bill was paid before exiting, everything about the evening as good as ever and hopefully a good sign of many great days to come.
FIVE STARS: Now toqued by Alan Mardonovich for over six months and continuing to push forward in terms of flavors and elegance Le Cirque remains one of Las Vegas’ very best Restaurants just as it has been for decades, and at a price far lower than the likes of Gagnaire, Robuchon or Savoy with no loss of quality one can even argue that by 2018 standards the Bellagio’s crown jewel remains under-valued.
RECOMMENDED: Le Crabe, Langoustine, Le Pates, Le Cirque, Les Ananas.
AVOID: N/A – though admittedly the Passionfruit Macaron was eaten by others.
TIP: With Alba Truffle season coming soon guests visiting Las Vegas in late-September and October are encouraged to make their reservations early.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Launched as a food cart sometime around 2010 it was officially on August 31st 2018 that Rick Gencarelli’s Lardo finally left the Pacific Northwest, his two stores built on old-school technique, hard work and a love of Pork re-imagined by The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas as part of its new Block 16 Urban Food Hall.
Described as a “smash-mouth” Deli and garnering accolades since its inception, Chef Gencarelli’s journey taking him coast-to-coast before eventually settling in PDX during the city’s peak time as a culinary and cultural destination, guests visiting Lardo Las Vegas will find it situated along the far wall of Block 16 on The Cosmo’s second floor, a butcher’s diagram acting as the logo above a space selling just six Sandwiches, two styles of Fries plus Beverages and Cookies from a jar.
Not a place for shortcuts or teenaged “Sandwich Artists,” actual Chefs currently overseeing an operation that bakes its own Bread before piling it high with artisan Meats, Organic Produce and housemade Sauces, it was on the advice of staff members that Sandwiches were selected, a brief wait yielding two plus a $3 Cookie and $10 “Dirty Fries” that come extra crispy even though they are tossed with fatty bits of Pork plus Herbs, Cheese and Peppers.
Not an easy place to make decisions despite the brief menu, Bread that initially looks undercooked actually served warm and pleasantly crusty around a soft sponge that prevents Condiments from soaking through, it was immediately after snapping a few photos that teeth plunged into layers of warm Porchetta evenly spread with herbaceous Gremolata and crisp Arugula, each bite a little different from the last though none were ever “heavy” in the way that fattier cuts of Meat can sometimes tend to be.
Moving next to what may be Lardo’s most well-known item, a $14 composition titled Meatball Banh Mi that juxtaposes piping hot Vietnamese Pork Meatballs against cold Carrots, Daikon and Cilantro, suffice it to say that those shy of spice need not be scared of Sriracha Mayonnaise that comes across gently on the finish and doesn’t linger long which thus allows for full enjoyment of the aforementioned Cookie featuring a soft, buttery center and crisp edge.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Bringing a “do one thing and do it well” concept to Las Vegas seems like a big risk considering Sin City’s everything-to-everyone culture but with the right marketing Lardo could prove a sleeper hit for Block 16 thanks to both convenience and quality craftsmanship plus big flavors and fair prices.
RECOMMENDED: Meatball Banh Mi Sandwich, Porchetta Sandwich, Chocolate Chip Cookie.
AVOID: Currently Lardo Las Vegas offers less than half the options of its Portland parent. Hopefully that will change as the concept matures.
TIP: Open 11am till 10pm Sunday through Thursday and until 4am on Friday/Saturday with a rotating “Chefwich” currently featuring Buffalo Pig Ears inspired by Turkey & The Wolf in New Orleans.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Medium 1/4 Dark Bird, Southern 1/4 White Bird, Southern Greens, Pimento Mac & Cheese, Creamy Cole Slaw
While Block 16 Urban Food Hall currently contains five individual concepts that will eventually grow to six it would be impossible to argue any was more anticipated than Hattie B’s Hot Chicken, the Nashville concept from a father and son team that has been burning up locals and tourists near Vanderbilt since 2012.
Originally visited in May 2015 and at that time already sprouting a second location despite fierce competition from nearby Gus’ and Prince’s, the more convenient location and classier environs of Hattie B’s no doubt part of an appeal that often spawns 2+ hour lines, it is partially hidden behind District: Donuts. Sliders. Brew. that guests will notice cursive red neon signage, though in reality as of day two the line forming by 10:30 in anticipation of an 11am opening should be all anyone need see to find the place.
More focused than the original and slightly inconvenienced by a lengthy queue that runs parallel to that of District, the combination making Hattie’s counter seating quite uncomfortable and thus overflowing guests to other parts of Block 16, it is after slowly progressing to the register that orders are placed with an average check for one well below $20 including two sides, Bread and Pickles.
Offering five spice levels, several Sauces plus Banana Pudding and Boozy Slushies in addition to the fried Bird and Sides it was with two 1/4 servings plus three Sides at a cost of just $21.70 that two diners dug in, the southern-style Breast and Wing possessing good crunch and complex aromatics that penetrate deep while Medium Leg and Thigh were expectedly more juicy and tangy rather than ‘spicy.’
Recalling that even “Hot” was not particularly traumatizing in Nashville, a situation most certainly not the case at Los Angeles’ Howlin’ Rays where many visitors in line will likely draw their comparisons, it was with Bones picked clean that attention turned to Mac n’ Cheese given a kick by Pimento as well as creamy Cole Slaw and Collards, the latter offering a rich porky sapor not commonly found outside the South and definitely worth checking out for both fans and those unfamiliar.
FOUR STARS: Even when originally tasted not quite as intense as Prince’s, and now likely to become a direct comparison for Angelinos who’ve braved Johnny Ray Zone’s line, Hattie B’s nonetheless offers top quality Chicken served in a manner rarely tasted in the 702, though with many Restaurants including Slater’s 50/50 and SkinnyFATS recently adding versions to their menu the competition certainly seems to be warming up.
RECOMMENDED: Southern Greens, Pimento Mac & Cheese, and Southern Spicing for timid taste buds or something Hot+ if you want to feel it.
AVOID: Medium Spice feels like a tease and Coleslaw is pretty standard.
TIP: Open 11am till 10pm Sunday through Thursday and until 4am on Friday/Saturday.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
