Owned and operated by French expatriates, one of them a fifth generation Baker, it was with heightened expectations that Les Gourmands was entered Tuesday morning, the location at 280 5th Street a bit difficult to access by car during rush hour but at the same time resulting in high foot traffic and fresh selections continuously being baked to replete supplies.
Decorated by an artist known as Nairone, his minimalist approach allowing focus to remain squarely on Tarts and Viennoiseries spread across a lengthy counter with names and prices displayed on small stands, it was while perusing the options that a woman identifying herself as Catherine offered guests samples, the corner of an Apricot Croissant crunchy and well-laminated with just a bit of Jam adding sweetness.
Located at one of SoMa’s most bustling intersections and thus able to justify higher prices than the typical Bakery, $7.80 per Tart and $5.00-$7.00 per Croissant on par with Tartine and more than Neigbor or b.patisserie, it was after assessing the choices that nearly $30 was invested, first bites of the Almond Apricot Tart finding Preserves relegated to the center and the edges a little dried out though the flavor was pleasant.
Continuing with Fruit, a $6.40 Chausson Aux Pommes challenging Les Gourmands assertion that everything is organic and locally sourced since the interior tastes like store-bought Pie Filling, it is fortunate that the seasonal Chestnut variety fared much better as a result of toasty Cream inside crunchy, separated layers.
Apparently hiring only “zero experience” bakers according to their website, an 18-month apprenticeship intended to train new artisans while also decreasing labor costs, it was while watching one man coach another in back that the “Almond Croissant” was cut in half, the thick Custard not only unexpected but overcooked while the $1 Chouquettes fortunately lived up to their acclaim as one of The Bay Area’s best baked goods thanks to a golden exterior flecked by Sugar Pearls and a center that is eggy yet open and light.
Late Winter in Sonoma – Roasted Beets with Pistachio, White Asparagus with Daikon Radish and Perigord Black Truffles, Ume Medai with Preserved Plum, Kushi Oyster with Pickled Wasabi, Spanish Mackerel with Green Garlic, Needlenose Fish with Yuzu and Radish, Braised Takenoko, Dungeness Crab with Spaghetti Squash, Rudderfish with Chive and Kombu, Parsnip Panna Cotta with Hokkaido Sea Urchin
Farm Egg Custard, Charred Japanese Eggplant, Dashi Jelly, Karasumi
Potatoes, Cod Collar, Preserved Lemon
Lilly Bulbs, Fava Greens, Cured Trout Roe
Akabana Kanpachi, Cherry Blossom, Rhubarb, Cara Cara Orange, Kumquat, Cured Amberjack Belly
Santa Barbara Abalone, Hakurei Turnip, White Sturgeon Caviar, Wild Seaweed
Housemade Tofu, North Coast Mushrooms, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Pinenut, Mushroom Tea
Guinea Hen Roulade, Sunchoke, Charred Broccoli, Preserved Lemon
Black Cod, Tama Miso, Yuba, Young Lettuces, Romanesco, Beets, Carrots, Cabbage
American Wagyu, Roasted Salsify, Morel Mushrooms, Salted Plum, Black Garlic Sauce
Sonoma Grains, Braised Short Ribs, Beef Cheek, Puffed Tendon, Nettle Puree, Roasted Bone Marrow, Beef Consomme
Whey Granite, Oro Blanco, Douglas Fir, Rosemary Flowers, Cookie Crumble
Wagashi – Golden Milk Egg with Turmeric and Ginger, Date and Kinako Butter, Rooibos Tea Ganache, Burnt Honey and Blood Orange
Although some have suggested Michelin Stars carry less weight stateside than overseas it would be difficult to tell any Chef the guide’s highest accolade is anything other than a momentous achievement, and having achieved trois etoiles less than two years after opening SingleThread Farm became America’s newest “destination” Restaurant with the 2019 publication.
Toqued by Kyle Connaughton, a sizable investment from outside sources allowing the kitchen veteran and his wife Katina to open their dream Restaurant, it is in the Wine Country town of Healdsburg that guests will fine the dining room and Inn, though thanks to unparalleled customer service those with a reservation will already have a good idea of what to expect.
Undoubtedly built with Michelin in mind, everything from Ingredients to service spotless from entry to exit, it is inside the foyer that guests are greeted with warm Tea plus a view of the kitchen, Connaughton’s interest in Japan continuing henceforth with decorations and coursing leading one to wonder whether the “single thread” refers to a connection between Sonoma County and Eastern cultures.
Tasting menu only and booked via Tock, pre-paying for everything but Beverages allowing the experience to unfold at a pace dictated by each table, it is upon seating that nine items are found waiting, the idea of Northern California in late-winter displayed by Beets, White Asparagus, Spaghetti Squash and Parsnips while proteins from Japan include Snapper, Rudderfish and creamy Hokkaido Sea Urchin each lightly accented by Herbs.
Opting against Alcohol but instead for housemade Juice, Gewürztraminer Grapes perfumed by Jasmine and Cardamom felt to be a good pairing for at least half the menu according to Sommelier Evan Hufford, it was from Chef Connaughton that three more Snacks were delivered, the laser-cut Egg offering Custard atop smoky Eggplant while SingleThread’s signature Potato Foam and seasonal Lilly Bulbs each dazzled thanks to restrained sweetness alongside fermented flavors.
Presented Kaiseki-style, the progression of flavors starting subtly with raw Amberjack and Citrus alongside a decorative Branch and gently cured Belly sandwiched between Shiso Leaves, it was shortly after finishing each snappy slice that a bowl of Abalone from Santa Barbara was offered, the thickened Sauce of Butter and Turnips truly mesmerizing as a foil to Seaweed harvested nearby and a sizable quenelle of Caviar.
Offered as eleven courses including Canapés and Mignardines, a total just over $300 excluding Wine in line with Restaurants of equal acclaim, it was perhaps ten minutes later that SingleThread Farm’s housemade Tofu was scooped atop three types of Mushrooms plus Pinenuts, the addition of bloomy Tea adding even more umami to textures not unlike Chawanmushi while the follow-up Guinea Hen Breast and Forcemeat unfortunately got a little lost in the setting of earthy Sunchokes and sweetened Lemon.
Back on track with Black Cod, though serving it with Egg-thickened Miso felt a little bit like Nobu save for an herbaceous finish, it was next that Domestic Wagyu was presented, both the meal’s cost and Connaughton’s fascination with Japan making one wonder why not source better though the three morsels did shine bite for bite with Salsify, Salted Plums and early-season Morels.
Concluding savories with Gohan, in this case local Grains with additional parts of the Cow and robust Consomme, it was to cleanse the palate that Grapefruit and Pine were paired with Ice, the astringency not particularly enjoyable but doing its job while the caramelized Cake to follow was far better and arguably the most complex plate of the night in terms of both taste and texture.
Wrapping with Wagashi, the Japanese tradition offered with Tea at a surcharge, fans of herbal Desserts are likely to be impressed by the exploding Egg awash with Turmeric and Ginger while those seeking sweet are better served by Date and Kinako Butter Cake or the Rooibos Tea Ganache before collecting their menu, a thank you and some Heirloom Seeds on the way out.
Samples – Black Sesame Coconut, Lucky Charms, Pistachio and Cherry, Vegan Coconut Key Lime, Cornflake and Maple
Almond Cardamom, Dutch Cookie on a Waffle Cone
Peach Raspberry Crumble Pie – Heritage Crust, Streusel
Cherry Key Lime Pie – Key Lime Custard, Housemade Cherry Compote, Whipped Cream, Graham Cracker Crust
Dreamed up by the folks behind Moustache Baked Goods it was during the summer of 2014 that Noble Folk opened, owners Christian Sullberg and Ozzy Jimenez taking over a space in the plaza and bringing artisan Ice Cream and Pie to their home town.
Officially dubbed Noble Folk Ice Cream And Pie Bar, the location at 116 Matheson Street since joined by a second location in Santa Rosa, it is from ample nearby parking that guests will access a space lined by counters and shelves, support for local craftsman on display including porcelain and woodwork.
Staffed by youngsters, their mannerisms pleasant and all visitors on this day clearly from elsewhere, it was after perusing choices that several tastes were offered, an Eastern influence found amidst savory Black Sesame made with Vegan Coconut and Almond Milk while flavors like Lucky Charms or Maple Cornflakes are distinctly American but not overly sweetened.
Using local Cream and Ingredients as possible, all Fruits from Sonoma County according to signage, it was eventually settling on Almonds and Cookies both spiced with Cardamom that a combination was concocted, the creamy base on par with some of the nation’s best though the Scoops are fairly small for the price.
Also varying Pies seasonally, a total of five available whole or sliced, it was after reading of Noble Folk’s Heritage Crust that a pair of slices were picked, the Cherry Key Lime unfortunately muted by too much Whipped Cream while Peach Raspberry Crumble requested warm was tangy and delightful considering the fact that Stonefruits of any quality are rare in March.
Although service at both Las Vegas iterations of Pizza Rock has lacked, Tony Gemignani’s Pizza has unequivocally been impressive, and at Tony’s Pizza Napoletana as well as the attached Slice shop the staff do justice to what is easily the best Coal-fired Pizza ever tasted plus a pretty excellent Meatball and Grandma Pie.
Open since 2009 on Stockton Street, Gemignani’s recognition as a 13-time World Pizza Champion generating lines in North Beach six days a week, it is beginning at 11:30am that guests can visit The Original Slice House, a limited seating venue focused specifically on Sandwiches and a Coal Oven shared by the Little Italy icon next door.
Not the low-quality 99-cent stuff sold on the Streets of New York, each triangle $5-6 and made from imported ingredients, it was early on this day that two Slices were quickly rewarmed in a rotating oven, the crust already dark and smoky with a developed flavor of yeast that stands up well to Oregano, Pecorino and Garlic Oil plus classic toppings such as Natural Casing Pepperoni and crushed Tomatoes or a blend of four Cheeses including fresh Mozzarella and puddles of Ricotta.
Moving next door to Tony’s flagship, arrival at noon circumventing the line at a place that has never taken reservations, it is by a friendly hostess that tables are assigned, three gusts offered a booth in the main room where Gemignani and two men were in the midst of a meeting as music from the 70s and 80s played at modest volume overhead.
Expanding the menu beyond Pizza and Sandwiches to Pasta and Red Sauce staples like Chicken Parm, the twenty-five Meatballs made daily highly recommended by staff, it is beginning with finely ground Pork, Veal and Beef that the softball sized orb delivers pronounced richness, a light blend of Herbs and Marinara offering balance to something cooked through without any evidence of drying on the outside though some Bread or a side of Spaghetti would be ideal for textural contrast.
Constrained to just one Pizza given group-size and hunger, a focus on styles unavailable in Las Vegas suggesting St. Louis or Grandma, it was in the latter that $36 was invested, four-bucks a Slice delivered from a 550ᵒF Gas Oven once again displaying the Chef’s respect for craft and Ingredients as America’s oldest family-made Mozzarella dazzled in gently-warmed gobs atop a golden Crust topped by sweet but not “sugary” Tomato Sauce.
House Sourdough Bread, Salted Butter, Apple Butter
Tres Leches Cake
House Yogurt, Seasonal Fruit, Bee Pollen, Granola
Morning Bun
Banana Nut Muffin
Pain au Chocolat
Raspberry Jam Bun
Chocolate Marble Pound Cake
Over a decade since the first, and only, visit to Tartine Bakery much has changed, Chefs Chad Robertson and Elisabeth Prueitt having since opened and closed a Restaurant while fame and finance led to the opening of Tartine Manufactory, a stunning production in terms of scope with prices to match.
Technically part of The Mission, an August 2016 opening at 595 Alabama Street filling space next to a tile factory with limited parking, it was shortly after 9:00am that the Manufactory was approached on foot, the Restaurant at least half-full from carry-out to the main dining room decorated with suspended bubbles.
Industrial-chic to match the name, exposed ceilings and chairs like one might find at a school lining a room with several machines to produce Tartine’s recipes in bulk, it was opting for seating that a young man approached with menus, $12 Porridge and $16 Toast aggressive even for San Francisco though apparently agreeable enough to guests that they recently added a Los Angeles location.
Not surprised to see the tireless Robertson working, automatic feeding of an oven able to bake dozens of Loaves at a time both fascinating and equally worrisome for the future of Artisans everywhere, it was opting for bold Cold Brew to start that eight items were requested, the $8 Bread plate that arrived first mostly justified by stretchy Sourdough surrounded by a robust Crust plus ample amounts of locally-sourced Butter and silky Cinnamon Apples.
Next brought $9 Yogurt with Granola, both made on-site and offered in a sharable portion that sees sweet and sour well-balanced, it was henceforth that Pastry took center-stage, the seasonal Banana Nut Muffin a bit dry compared to many but still well-flavored while Chocolate Marble Pound Cake fared much better thanks to plenty of bittersweet Cocoa swirled into the Batter.
Unable to resist an iconic Morning Bun, the Croissant Dough spanning several pages of Tartine Cookbook Volume 1 presented tightly wound with plenty of Citrus, Butter and Granulated Sugar, it was surprisingly Robertson’s Pain au Chocolat that proved even better, the core still warm and layers of lamination shattering to the tooth before drifting down to table, lap and floor.
Finishing with what best resembled Dessert, springy Broche nestling Custard and Raspberry Preserves quickly dispatched and a second Bun briefly debated, it was instead a slice of Tres Leches Cake that ended the morning, a lack of sogginess welcomed by those who typically consider the dish too “wet” though the traditional flavor remains intact with the sponge a dainty Chiffon and Pastry Cream lightly perfumed by Vanilla dividing the layers.
Crazy Cookie with Marshmallow, Corn Flakes, Chocolate Chips
Chocolate Chip Toffee Cookie
Cap ‘N Crunch Cookie
Almond Twice Baked Croissant
Kouign Amann
Maple Chestnut Scone
Cardamom Lattice Bun
Begun first as a Coffee shop on Fillmore, Amanda Michael’s years of working in the kitchen for others spurring a desire to create something of her own, it is through steady growth that Jane has subsequently expanded to Larkin and Geary Boulevard, the latter titled “Jane The Bakery” opened in late 2016 and by far the largest outpost.
Built on ideas of hospitality, quality and balance, the menu slowly evolving to now include Pastries, Breakfast and Lunch served from 7:00am daily, it is immediately on entry that guests will notice an array of items unmatched by any other artisan bakeshop in The Bay Area, overhead menus adding to what can be found on racks or in cases with fresh items continuously being baked in back.
Mostly locally-sourced and organic when possible, head baker Jorgen Carlsen and Pastry Chef Alexander Terrazas assisting Chef Michael at “The Bakery” while other locations each have their own team in place to cut down on transfers, it is well-advised that first-time visitors take time to peruse before placing an order, though a well-trained staff is happy to make recommendations for the indecisive.
Truly a scratch kitchen, Chef Carlen’s collection of Breads built from old starters and house-blended Flour forming the base for Toast and Sandwiches, it was while awaiting the former slathered in ground Almonds and Raspberry Puree that eight additional items were requested, a total just over $40 including Milk and Coffee not bad considering both the area and quality.
Targeting both favorites and variety, the Gluten-free Toast noteworthy for a dense crumb created by no-less than nine Nuts and Grains, it was moving next to four Cookies that a range of textures and flavors were discovered, the “Cookie For Breakfast” unfortunately very dry save for bits of Fruit while Cap ‘n Crunch, Chocolate Chip Toffee and one dubbed “Crazy” all sported crispy rims and soft centers plus the amount of sweetness expected from their ingredients.
Onward to Viennoiserie, the Almond Croissant caked with Frangipane thankfully not compromised by too much of the cloying Paste inside, those seeking something laminated would be better off targeting Jane’s Kouign Amann that ranks middle of the pack for Northern California, but for those seeking something truly memorable the decision comes down to a buttery Scone made with roasted Chestnuts versus Jane’s “Lattice Bun” that eats like Yorkshire Pudding filled with Custard heavily perfumed by Cardamom.
Hand Torn Big Eye Tuna, Tomato Jelly, Shiso, Rice Cracker
Sweet Chicory Caesar
Tuxedo #3 – Gin, Apricot, Fino Sherry
Antelope Tartare, Egg Yolk, Lettuce Cups
Lettuces, Herbs, Meyer Lemon
Hand-Dived Scallop, Perigord Black Truffle, Smoked Butter, Lemon
Slowly Grilled Hen of the Woods Mushroom, Harissa
Whole Barbecued Bobwhite Quail, Honey
Ruby Beet, Embered Tomato, Walnut
28-Day Dry Aged New York Strip, Angler Steak Sauce, Broth of Roasted Bones
Soft Serve Sundae, Barbecue Sea Salt, Caramel
Mandarin Creamsicle
It was late-summer 2011 that Joshua Skenes’ name first appeared via inbox, a public post on Chowhound regarding the merits of three restaurants leading the Chef of a spot in The Mission to e-mail with guarantees that seating at his table would be San Francisco’s best. Not only was he right, but so too were visits to the current Saison in 2013 and 2014.
Now older and better traveled, both diner and Chef having accrued experience across the span of nearly five years, it was on Sunday night that a seat was again taken in Josh Skenes space, this time grandiose Angler located along The Embarcadero yet much like three times past the focus from entry to exit was on peerless ingredients cooked with fire.
Recently making waves with his announcement of Skenes Ranch, an invitation-only experience that will give Josh an opportunity to show guests his vision of what a “Restaurant” can be by engaging in fishing, hunting and more, it is in cozy wood and leather chairs as opposed to wilderness that those visiting Angler will find themselves, walls decorated with taxidermy and the feel of a hunting lodge spanning across two rooms including bar and open kitchen.
Intended to be less formal than Saison, an a la carte menu and focus on plates able to be shared giving Angler a feel not unlike some modern steakhouses, those so inclined are additionally given the option to “let us cook for you,” an idea well-suited to solos or those open to anything including items unavailable otherwise.
Still refined in terms of service, a combination of professionalism and pleasantries on display as everything from Phil Collins to Billy Ocean plays overhead, it was opening with complimentary Bubbles that strips of Amberjack dressed in acid found silky Fish juxtaposed by Pears and Cabbage, a follow-up of Tuna Tartare reminiscent of that served eight years prior but here carefully accented by fragments of Gelatin infused with Tomatoes and a Rice Cracker for contrast.
Missing no detail, serviceware present alongside Salt, house-cured Peppers and other Condiments, it was on request that an aggressively herbal Cocktail was poured for round two, the Tuxedo #3 starting dry before yielding a fruity finish that complimented both Angler’s salty Caesar and finely ground Antelope slicked by Egg Yolk and moderately spiced with Chili Oil.
Veering off menu with Scallops sliced and stacked with Truffles, a Salad of local Lettuces smartly resetting the palate between rich bites, those fond of Mushrooms should not miss Skenes’ beautiful Hen of the Woods gently roasted and bathed in Harissa, the spice largely smoky instead of spicy and the entirety of the preparation wonderful on its own but even better bite-for-bite with Bobwhite Quail that undergoes a multi-step process to yield smoky Flesh and sweet Skin with a texture not far from that of Peking Duck.
Sated but not stuffed, the kitchen’s choice to omit both Parker Rolls and Angler’s oft-photographed Potato soon proving fortuitous, it was rounding out savories that Beets and Beef arrived, the dry-aged Strip fortified by a bath of Bone Broth while the combination of burnt Tomatoes and Walnuts formed a rich and satisfying Chutney, of sorts, atop the tender but still structurally intact Taproot.
Not overdoing it with Dessert, though five options are available, it is tapping into nature’s bounty that Coconuts and Oranges are both hollowed out with contents mixed and frozen, the latter well-sized for one and like a Push-Pop turned organic while Soft Serve made from locally sourced Cream leaves a bit of residual sourness to temper smoked Salt and the sort of Caramel that many will find themselves eating by the spoonful if they first run out of Ice Cream.
\Samples – Perfect Peach, Red Bean, Ube, Pistachio
Butta Brickle with Burnt Salted Caramel Sauce
Strawtella
Creamy Horchata Ice Cream on a Glazed Donut with Burnt Salted Caramel Sauce
Smartly opened at 1717 17th Street during the summer of 2017 Milkbomb Ice Cream had lines from day one, the replacement for former Soft-serve shop in essence turnkey but bringing the unlikely combination of warm Donuts and cold Ice Cream to San Francisco for the first time.
Previously making waves in Orange County and New York City, the process for all intents and purposes using harder freezing temperatures and a modified Panini press to fuse two of America’s favorite indulgences, Milkbomb comes from owners Marion Valenzuela and Jan-Michael Manuel with the added bonus of unique flavors and several housemade Toppings.
Building a strong social media following despite being tucked away in a business plaza, myriad photos of over-the-top creations assuredly drawing folks in but the product itself also showing well per report, it was after a brief wait despite rain that samples came first, an Asian influence not uncommon to The Bay Area yielding mellow Ube and Red Bean that was unfortunately a touch gritty while Perfect Peach and Pistachio were both excellent amidst a creamy base that arrives firm but begins to soften quickly.
Not afraid to try new ideas, the Potrero Hill crowd mostly young and obviously not dissuaded by Fruity Pebbles based on pictures, it was blending local Fruits and Chocolate-Hazelnut Spread that “Strawtella” was ordered by one guest who raved it, two others instead focusing of “Butta Brickle” that tastes like Butter Pecan made with Candy instead of smoked Nuts and Horchata that riffs indistinguishably on the Beverage but here found itself stuffed between slices of grilled and glazed Brioche plus a drizzle of bitter-sweet Caramel.
Whether one technically calls it a part of The Mission or Bernal Heights there is no debating Pizzahacker’s place amongst The Bay Area’s most celebrated Pies, Jeff Krupman’s days of baking Pizzas in parks a thing of the past as his Restaurant at 3299 Mission Street continues to generate lines from Tuesday through Sunday.
Tucked away between Valencia and 29th, a narrow doorway and simple lettering on glass the only indication of what’s inside, it is just prior to 5:00pm that guests begin to line up, a steady rain on this particular evening keeping numbers down early though the chalkboard waitlist had already started by six.
Using a modified version of Tartine’s Bread Dough, Krupman readily admitting Chad Robertson’s impact on Pizzas dating back to his time cooking on the “Franken-Weber” it is seated at picnic tables inside an old bank that guests are invited to choose from eight Pies and two Salads, sub-$20 pricing for piping hot rounds featuring top-quality ingredients a veritable steal considering San Francisco’s otherwise exorbitant prices.
Opting for Wild Yeast and Whole Wheat as part of the formula, decisions that give Pizzahacker’s Pies a heritage look and tangy notes not dissimilar from Sourdough, it is cut into triangles that Krupman’s “Top Shelf” Margherita forms the basis of comparison to others, locally grown Tomatoes simply crushed and stewed with hand-torn Basil and flakes of Sea Salt that brighten fresh Mozz plus shavings of Grana to finish.
Skipping a wood oven in favor of bricks, cook times longer but Dough more evenly baked from edge to center, it was looking seasonally that “Ohio” arrived next, the oblong cut of a Chicago Bar Pie an odd decision leaving one slice without any cornicione but the combination of Pepperoni, Provolone and Peperoncini all playing well off a medium-blister and lengthy fermentation that renders each bite light and crisp.
Salted Butterscotch in a Chocolate Chip Cookie Bowl
Butter Pecan Ice Cream Sandwich with Snickerdoodle and Oatmeal Raisin Cookie
Serving Cow Hollow since 2013, and now with a second location at Embarcadero Center, the success of Over the Moon Cookie & Creamery seems more than short-lived, owner Brian Horowitz’s gamble to open a simple shop focused on Ice Cream and his Grandmother’s Cookies thriving in a city where both items aren’t for lack.
Not a restaurateur by training, but instead a connoisseur who one day decided to try his hand at home, it is beginning with a housemade base of high-fat Cream that each batch of Over the Moon Ice Cream begins, the resultant texture creamy to the point of almost butter-like with flavors running the gamut from traditional Vanilla to boozy Amaretto or lightly bitter Coffee with mix-ins such as Oreo Cookies and bits of crunchy Caramel.
Outsourcing nothing, Grandma Millie Gaines’ recipes from Yankee Doodle Bakery in Oxnard now baked on-site, it is with air heavily perfumed by Vanilla that guests will find the shop at 2144 Chestnut Street, a small seating area in back clearly designed for the #gram while two men behind the counter tend to patrons ranging from young locals to families of tourists.
Posing tough decisions, five Cookies plus edible bowls flanking two-dozen flavors, it was after several samples that two stood out from the others, Salted Butterscotch offering just enough punch to offset sweetness inside a Cookie bowl that was unfortunately harder than anticipated while Butter Pecan had all sorts of rustic charm to match a thick and chewy Oatmeal Cookie plus a Snickerdoodle awash with Cinnamon.
Italian for “little flower” it was filling a niche that Fiorella opened its Outer Richmond flagship in early 2016, Chef Brandon Gillis bringing a pedigree including time at Franny’s in Brooklyn to The Bay Area but doing so without the pomp and pretense of others and immediately rewarded by a devout following at 2339 Clement Street.
Embracing the idea of “Neighborhood Italian” but at the same time maintaining global instincts, partnership with a local restaurateur enabling the kitchen with top-quality Ingredients and an imported wood-burning oven, it is during weekend-only Brunch that guests are encouraged to visit the Restaurant in order to avoid lengthy wait-times, though parking can often prove challenging given the residential landscape and lack of metered spaces.
Recently opening a second location on Russian Hill, though visibly doing little to stymie crowds packing both Fiorella’s comfortable interior and an outside patio, it was after perusing items and gauging hunger that five items were requested, round one consisting of housemade Noodles generously portioned and slick with Butter plus Tomato Sauce alongside Gillis’ famous Burrata Pie sporting Cherry Tomatoes smashed beneath Basil and lightly chilled Burrata that, when spread, creates an entirely unique contrast in terms of texture and temperature to the puffy Crust and heavily-blistered cornicione.
Spinning everything from Motown to Hip-hop overhead, wallpaper featuring the likes of Joe Montana and E-40 adding to the locals-only ambiance, it was for “Dessert” that Brunch’s French Toast started things off, thick slices of Brioche Custard-soaked and griddled golden beneath Pinenut Butter and Huckleberry Jam while quenelles of Budino were stick-a-spoon-up-straight thick and far more enjoyable than a Cannoli marred by its stale shell as well as an over-abundance of Citrus.
Debuted at 1408 Clement Street in the waning days of 2018, Breadbelly finally took the big step from pop-up to brick-and-mortar, a minimalist space in Richmond Districct bringing the team’s collection of Asian-inspired baked goods to an area lacking for anything similar and already drawing a good following thanks to social media as well as word of mouth.
The brainchild of James Wong, his wife Katherine Campecino-Wong and Clement Hsu, all three having met at Atelier Crenn and Chef Campecino-Wong previously honing her skills at Mourad, it is upon entry to the longer-than-wide space that guests will find a small seating area and well-culled collection, perhaps one dozen items in total plus Tea and Coffee though the lack of Creamer or sweeteners save for Stevia may limit the enjoyment of beverages for some.
Priced similar to other Bay Area artisans such as Tartine and Neighbor, but more like The Bakery at Fat Rice in Chicago as relates to ideas, nearly every guest visiting Breadbelly will have likely at least seen photos of Kaya Toast that is made to order, the housemade Milk Bread springy like Brioche and carefully layered with bright green Jam tiptoeing between sweet and savory, a lack of Eggs or Soy straying from tradition but both texture and flavor justifying the hype.
Hoping to win-over the diverse ethnicities of their neighborhood, but at the same time dubbing the ideas “New American,” it was in follow-up to warm Toast that five Pastries were tasted, the gelatinous mouthfeel of Mochi probably unfamiliar to many who’ve not explored Hawaiian cuisine but here smartly balanced by crushed Peanuts while the “Choco-Soba-Ko” Cookie is more than a mouthful to say but easy to devour as crispy top and edges give way to a soft center studded by two types of Chocolate.
Stumbling with Banana Bread, the $7 loaf assuredly sharable but entirely overwhelmed by tangy Marmalade, fans of Adzuki Bean should not miss the Sticky Bun topped with Caramel, comparisons to “Boston Baked Beans” Candy justified though the base itself attests to skilled bakers while Breadbelly’s “Not Ube!” Tart a first tastes a lot like southern Sweet Potato Pie before developing a more nuanced and savory finish thanks to shavings of Egg Yolk.
Owned by Greg and Christine Mindel since 2012 there is a good chance anyone enjoying a Pastry inside one of San Francisco’s top Coffee Shops over the last decade has tasted something from Neighbor Bakehouse, prior wholesale to the likes of Four Barrel and Sightglass eventually yielding a brick-and-mortar storefront early 2015 in the Dogpatch.
Formally trained prior to years as a baking instructor, gigs at places such as Tartine benefitting both Mindel and the goods themselves, it is from a distance that Neighbor Bakehouse can be identified from Wednesday through Sunday, a line snaking out the door even with rain and guests almost universally emerging from the standing-room-only space with sizable boxes in their hands and smiles on their faces.
Occupying 2343 Third Street, the surrounding buildings largely residential but short-term parking plentiful, it is after queuing that guests will be tempted by nearly three-dozen options ranging from Pizette to Viennesoire, prices competitive with other artisan bakeshops like Mr. Holmes while service is expedient yet pleasant.
Known for several signatures, and utilizing most of Neigbor Bakehouse’s space for production rather than seating, it was targeting diversity that seven items in total were requested, inclement weather necessitating a twenty minute drive across town before clouds would clear so that items beginning with a Muffin-sized Financier with good density and restrained sweetness could be tasted.
Open at 6:30am but continuing to bake past 8:00am, the possibility of finding something still-warm a welcome surprise, it was taking advantage of good fortune that two additional Fruit and Nut combinations followed, the Pistachio Blackberry Twice-baked Croissant marvelously constructed with shattering Shell overlying buttery layers thinly spread with Jam while a Raspberry Hazelnut version performed even more admirably thanks to whole Nuts on top plus toasty notes inside that play well off seeded Preserves.
Sticking to no script but their own, “Pumpkin Spice” season long gone but a slice of Brioche slathered in Puree mixed with Frangipane stunning in its subtlety, those seeking Mindel’s best use of technique should not pass on a Ginger Pull-apart which eats like laminated Monkey Bread with lots of spice, and although the cleverly named ‘Doughp’ (pronounced dope) Bun gets a lot of press it is actually Neighbor’s Oat Coconut Pecan Chocolate Cookie that showed better as a result of being well balanced despite so much going on and still managing to be crisp around the edges but soft in the center despite so many moist ingredients.
Red Wheat Doughnuts, Bourbon Ice Cream, Pecan Pie Filling, Nutmeg Sugar
Per Merriam-Webster the word progress is defined as “forward or onward movement toward a destination,” and although Nicole Krasinski and Stuart Brioza’s Restaurant opened in late-2014 is actually named after The Progress Theatre which occupied 1525 Fillmore Street prior, the term also fits as it’s James Beard awarded duo have continued to develop their distinctive style from State Bird Provisions inside the century-old space.
In reality the Restaurant Brioza and Krasinski had originally planned to open, State Bird’s tremendous success literally “delaying progress” for over a year, it is immediately on entry that guests are faced by a small foyer most-likely filled, the hostess quoting lengthy waits even for bar seating while those who’ve made reservations will be lucky if they are seated on time.
Grand in scale, curved ceilings and a pair of balconies with tables overlooking an open kitchen, it is moving on from a bar which is usually two-deep that diners find themselves amidst noise and energy, servers who trend young exceedingly enthusiastic in their description of dishes that come from a check-sheet tallying twenty-two plus Dessert on this particular evening.
Anything but static, the menu evolving in-step with seasonality and ideas that roam globally, it was while two sipped on reinterpreted Tom Collins that first plates were presented, a “Sturgeon Caviar Potato Cloud” for $12 offering only two spoonfuls per mouth but both of them stunning as tiny bubbles burst beneath the heavily-aerated concoction on top.
Limiting the order after a lengthy day of dining, recommendations for “2-to-4” plates per person simply unrealistic at 9:00pm after an earlier dinner elsewhere, savories continued by way of jet-black Noodles bathed in an umami-rich bath, the salt of Katsuobushi reined in by slight bitters while Roti delivered flat but subsequently rolled-and-cut was exceptional in terms of taste but texturally a bit challenging as a result of whole greens served that occasionally took a good amount of effort to chew through.
Opting for an equal number of sweets with $3 shots of State Bird Peanut Milk as a bridge, proceeds from the creamy concoction helping to fund zerofoodprint.org, it is from Chef Krasinski that big flavors take center-stage, the unannounced addition of Fennel to Chocolate Szechuan Pepper Cake thankfully easy to remove as it disrupted any semblance of balance while herbaceous Rice Pudding and fluffy Doughnuts served along boozy Ice Cream and Pecans mashed into a sweet Paste were both delicious.
Showing a lot of chutzpah in taking on Chinatown’s traditions, Chef Brandon Jew has nonetheless silenced his doubters for nearly three years, suggestions of ‘cultural appropriation’ or a lack of ‘authenticity’ falling on deaf ears to both fans and critics who’ve kept Mister Jiu’s awash with acclaim and busy enough to have recently added Moongate Lounge, a splashy new bar upstairs.
Born in The Bay Area but globally trained and traveled, significant time in Shanghai helping to shape a style that incorporates French technique and local ingredients into dishes ranging from $6 to $110, it is at the far-end of a walk-in only Bar that diners get their first glimpse of a space that expands back nearly fifty yards in length, the vibe trendy but not garish with the dining-room itself offering full views of the kitchen plus streets in the city below.
Softened by foliage and art, Brandon’s wife Anna apparently the curator and undoubtedly up to the task, it was by luck that a reservation for one was easily shifted to three bar seats by arriving at 5:30pm, the staff including two bartenders and a team of servers going above and beyond to make sure Water and Tea were always full as Food rolled out at a leisurely pace.
Booked full several weeks in advance, a constant situation from Tuesday through Saturday with staff getting a much-deserved two-days off between, it was starting out with Shrimp Chips topped in Salt and Vinegar Powder that the tone was set, a follow-up of traditional BBQ Pork given a No.Cal finish by way of the mottled and semi-sweet Buns.
Next spinning Scallion Pancakes into Sourdough a la Funnel Cake, the tangy intrinsic flavor fairly restrained but well compensated for by Hummus-like Dip awash in Onions, those who’ve never experienced Turnip Cakes before would be wise to take their first look at Chef Jew’s starchy yet tender version bolstered by Soy while guests seeking something heated will wisely seek out Taiwanese Noodles bathed in Orange broth and mellowed by Mushrooms as well as Mustard Greens.
Taking Prawn Toast up a notch by punching out Milk Bread and topping it with Mousse, Bacon and Roe, a toasted Sesame finish and Aioli furthering both taste and texture, it is amidst humble Congee that similar intricacy is exhibited by placing tender bits of Lobster in the context of Grapefruit Pulp, Peanuts whole and chopped plus locally grown Kohlrabi.
Rounding out savories with Mister Jiu’s signature Quail, the server actually suggesting this over a $65 half-Duck that also sounds tempting, it is in-tune with the season that crisp Skin and juicy Flesh arrives atop Sticky Rice soaked by roasting Juices, Cherries and housemade Sausage in a portion that is most certainly sharable.
Sated but not stuffed, a fine line to keep in mind given the talent of Pastry Chef Melissa Chou, it is fortunate that Dessert at Mister Jiu’s trends large but light, each $13 selection distinct and beautifully plated from Banana Biscuits and Sesame Custard to the intense Citrus of a Lemon Tart tempered by Turmeric Meringue, though the real star is undoubtedly Honey that eats like Semifreddo beneath Pineapple Sorbet and Walnut Tuiles.
Approaching a decade serving The Mission, and popular to the point of a Berkeley expansion with both stores still selling out of specials early, it was around 1:00pm on Saturday that guests visited Anthony’s Cookies, a chalkboard with check-marks offering visual representation of what was and wasn’t available.
Housed in a narrow space at 1417 Valencia Street, modest confines owned by Anthony Lucas at the time only decorated by an impolite clerk and cooling racks, it was from nine Cookies sold at $2 each that choices were made, each the size of what one might bake at home and most fairly basic in terms of ingredients.
Open from 11:00am until 8:00pm daily save for Sunday, then closing at six with any leftovers donated to local non-profits, it was after paying that four room-temperature rounds were tasted, “Classic” Chocolate Chip far less studded than the likes of b.patisserie or Craftsman and Wolves while Peanut Butter was crisp around the rim but dry and fragile at the center.
Improving henceforth, Oreos blended into the Batter of Cookies and Cream not exactly “artisan” but nonetheless imparting moisture where others had lacked, it was with everything Oatmeal-based gone that Walnut won-out over the rest, large chunks adding contrast in terms of taste and texture but still not justifying cost or hype in a city where dozens of better Bakeries exist.
Samples: Coconut, Azuki Bean, Caramel, Brownies and Cream
Ube Pandan, Black Sesame, Kaya Cream on a Waffle Cone
Operated by Erin Lang and Donny Capozzi since 2010, though only brick-and-mortar beginning in early 2017, there are many who place Garden Creamery alongside Humphry Slocombe and Bi-Rite as one of The Bay Area’s best scoop shops, a Saturday visit in March attesting to quality craftsmanship and good ingredients across a variety of flavors.
Sourcing Milk from Straus Family Creamery and becoming an Instagram darling thanks to “Chimney Cones,” an item discontinued in November of 2018 for undisclosed reasons, it is upon perusal of 21 choices that a predilection for Asia is found, the owner’s Hawaiian heritage likely at least partially responsible though classics such as Cookies and Cream or Caramel are certainly not forgotten.
Inhabiting the corner of Lexington and 20th Street in the Mission, prices of $4.50 per scoop or $6.75 for a double high but in-line with competitors, it was after several tastes that three flavors on a Waffle Cone were requested, the Purple Yam and Kaya Cream both smooth and subtly perfumed by Pandan while Black Sesame is awash with toasty notes and subtle saltiness that works well as a counterpoint but may be too abrupt on its own.
Having first encountered Corey Lee’s cooking during a 2009 extended tasting at The French Laundry, an equally memorable meal at benu two years later showing the Chef to have quickly found his own voice, it was only a matter of time before Monsieur Benjamin climbed atop the Bay Area “to-do” list, an 11am booking making it the first Restaurant visited during a four day stay in March.
Described as a “Modern French” Bistro and dressed for the role, lots of white plus reclaimed wood wrapped around an open kitchen at 451 Gough Street, it is with a geometric fox designating the space that guests enter Monsieur Benjamin viewing lengthwise, banquettes to the right offering a more civilized arrangement than larger tables to the left that, at least during Brunch, were filled with young families.
Bustling but not loud, prices outside the range of even Michelin’s $50 “Bib Gourmand” keeping the bottomless-mimosa crowd at bay but still finding the Restaurant 3/4 full by noon, it was shortly after seating that a young man already guaranteed 20% “additional charge” plus 4% mandate stopped by to fill water, the Birthday Card presented a nice touch while concise menus make for easy decision-making.
Never setting out to be “everything to everyone,” just seven Main Courses and eight Appetizers joining fresh Fruits de Mer, it was opting to begin with Housemade Bread that technique and sourcing were immediately on display, each $2 slice featuring a well-developed crumb surrounded by a robust Crust whose flavor is further enhanced by Spring Hill Jersey Butter.
Moving next to Petits Plats, $16 for enough shredded Crab and Cream to top six Crisps pricey yet justified by quality, it was actually four Fritters filled with fragrant Potatoes that proved even more stunning, the lightness almost unimaginable for something fried in Oil while the Sour Cream and Onion Dip was rich yet at the same time restrained enough to not be overwhelming.
Waiting around thirty minutes for round two, Justin checking in frequently and keeping Water topped-off even as business began to pick-up, it was part sweet and part savory that Brunch continued, the housemade Brioche dredged just long enough in Custard that Syrup in optional while Tarte Flambée lives up to its Parisian roots by balancing an intentionally charred Crust with tangy Cheese, clarified Onions and Bacon cooked less crispy than the tantalizing Strips perched atop French Toast.
Not an overly filling meal despite the tab of nearly $120, a con in terms of one’s bank account that offers silver-lining by way of room for Dessert, suffice it to say that Lee’s precision is again visible in the perfect layering of Gateau Marjolaine and Crème Anglaise that guests may want to eat by the spoonful while “Palmier Ice Cream” is even more praiseworthy thanks to crystallized Pastry pieces and boozy ribbons of Caramel.
Although many rightfully consider San Francisco a World-class dining destination the lack of Donuts compared to Southern California is striking, whether a testament to the city’s wealth or a focus on health one is frankly more likely to find a $5 Croissant than 99-cent piece of fried Dough which makes a place like Twisted Donuts & Coffee stand out like a needle in the proverbial haystack.
Now located in Outer Sunset for nearly five years, owners Joyce and Paul Lim arriving by way of San Diego and making a home of modest confines, it is from nearly ten yards that the smell of Yeast and Sugar can be smelled on approach, a friendly hello welcoming would-be patrons visiting the shop from Wednesday through Monday.
Truly a “mom and pop” operation, Paul bringing his father’s recipes plus an ample amount of creativity north while Joyce tends to business matters such as bulk and specialty orders via e-mail, it was having contacted Twisted Donuts & Coffee 48-hours prior that a dozen were set aside, the mix of standards and weekend-only selections tallying just $31.50 including a small Coffee plus two airy Cream Puffs added gratis.
Filling the space at 1243 Noriega Street with enough seating for perhaps fourteen, though most opt for their selections to-go, it is straight away that the Lim’s attention to detail is evident, a Vegan Cake Donut with Lemon Icing tart enough to pucker the lips while a combination of Guava and Shredded Coconut atop yeasty Brioche is expectedly sweet though not overly so.
Not the sort of place using mixes, the team in back preparing both Dough and Frosting in plain sight, it was next that Twisted’s Buttermilk Bar showed every sign of someone in tune with their craft, Glaze penetrating the top by approximately one centimeter and infusing every bite with sweetness while a version made with Maple and Pecans fares even better.
Running the gamut of styles, an Old Fashioned appropriately thin and tangy while Blueberry Cake features plenty of Fruit suspended in a moist crumb, those fortunate enough to arrive early on weekends will not want to miss out on Ube, the increasingly-common ingredient here adding not only its bright color but extra smoothness to the already- supple Batter.
Less impressed by “S’mores Galore” than a simple Chocolate-frosted ring, the Cereal and Marshmallows more a distraction than anything, fans of filling will be happy to know Twisted Donuts & Coffee doesn’t skimp when it comes to Raspberries complete with Seeds, nor do they do so when it comes to Apples amidst a greasless Fritter or the amount of Nutella inside their signature “Fruirrito” which is exactly what it sounds like, a deep-fried Tortilla approximately the same size and weight of a Mission Burrito.
Toasted Croissant Loaf with Cinnamon Sugar and Orange Marmalade
Roasted Banana Bread with Coconut
Vanilla Raised Donut with Biscotti Crumble
Hidden Star Apple Cider Cake Donut with Cinnamon Sugar
Financier with Chocolate and Caramelized Nib Crust
The Alfajores Kouign Amann with Dulce de Leche and Coconut Macaron
Valrhona Chocolate and Churro Sugar Croissant
No Frills Peanut Butter Cookie
Valrhona Chocolate Chip Cookie with Vanilla Sea Salt
Serving The Mission since 2012 and expanding to Yosemite Avenue in Bayview-Hunters Point four years later, it had been nearly five years between visits when three guests entered Craftsman and Wolves (CAW) on Saturday, a steady downpour outside keeping others at bay and shelves fully stocked just after 8:00am.
Still owned and operated by Chef William Werner, a two time James Beard Foundation Finalist for “Outstanding Baker” with a resume that includes The Ritz-Carlton and Michelin 3* Quince, The Den offers a slightly different look at CAW than the Valencia Street flagship, sweets slightly truncated and savories expanded while limited seating and a lack of public restrooms renders it a largely “grab and go” operation.
Best known for The Rebel Within, a masterpiece of #yolkporn that predates Instagram, it was with nearly complete change from prior offerings that guests perused their options, all but two deemed “can’t miss” following an early morning flight and the only repeat Chef Werner’s Cocoa Carrot Muffin which remains a remarkable balance of Chocolate and Baking Spices with crumbly insides but plenty of moisture.
Ordering one made-to-order item, a slice of CAW’s Croissant Loaf toasted and slathered with Orange Marmalade, it was after a short exchange with the somewhat rude clerk that Banana Bread was tasted, the addition of Coconut mellowing flavor but at the same time drying things out a bit while the square Donut to follow was pretty much flawless from eggy Brioche to bold Vanilla Icing and crunchy Cookie Crumbs.
Less impressed by an Apple Cider Donut, the Cake overcooked and parched with an overabundance Cinnamon doing the exterior no favors, it was moving on to Craftsman and Wolves’ Financier that Saturday morning’s best item was found, the Brownie-like base made even smoother by Almond Flour while the outside crackles to the tooth thanks to caramelized Cocoa Nibs.
Hoping to save the best for last, Werner’s Viennoiseries having previously proven noteworthy, suffice it to say that the “AKA” continues that trend by replicating the South American Cookie’s flavor amidst buttery layers while the lamination of a Croissant with Chocolate *in* the Batter is also impressive, though much like the Cake Donut this is an item best saved for those who don’t mind a high ratio of Cinnamon to Sugar on the surface.
Finishing up with a pair of Cookies, the “No Frills” Peanut Butter a top-tier rendition that melts across the palate, those seeking the Bay Area’s best Chocolate Chip should put Craftsman and Wolves on their list as each bite is nearly 50% Valrhona but at the same time never too rich thanks to Sea Salt that is more pronounced in the soft center than around crispy edges.
