Red Hot Cheetorrones – Crispy Pork Skins, Spicy Cheese Dust, Cilantro Lime Crème / Sweet and Sour Sesame Meatballs
Charcuterie and Cheese
Boneless Buffalo Wing – Bleu Cheese Sauce
Assorted Desserts
Although filmed several months ago it was not until Tuesday that Food Network aired Pawan Pinisetti’s win on Chopped, his transition from Fiamma to Top of The World Restaurant irrelevant as several friends gathered to watch on The STRAT’s 107th floor with passed Appetizers created by the Chef.
A celebratory night for colleagues past and present, though Pawan never did let on the known outcome, it was on the heels of victory that many guests next preceded down elevators to the Grand Opening of BLVD & MAIN Taphouse, a space previously discussed here filled with socialites and several menu items plus Charcuterie, Shellfish and Dessert to round out a memorable night.
With more 24/7 Eateries than any two American cities combined it might be said that no one beats Las Vegas for all-day dining, so when Joseph Kudrak and Station Casinos announced plans to reinvent Palace Station’s Grand Café as The Brass Fork the stakes were high, but much like Lucky Penny at The Palms the payoff is great.
Located centrally in the Casino, away from new additions including b.B.d’s, Cinebarre and Boathouse but easily found by heading right from valet, it is via Pastry case that most will form their first impression of the 194-seat Eatery, a hostess happy to help while those looking for something quick can choose from a variety of Carl’s Doughnuts, Pinkbox Cro-Doughs or housemade Pastries, Coffee and Ice Cream.
Spacious and freshly decorated, a Bar for guests 21-and-older flanked by tables suitable for parties large or small, it is from the elevated left-half that a full view of the room is offered, hefty wooden menus suggesting over six-dozen plates ranging from Omelets to Entrees and every single one of them available twenty-four hours a day.
An optimistic undertaking to say the least, Palace Station’s move away from the tried and true recently garnering national press, it is beginning with Beverages that Brass Fork guests will find options including nitrogen-infused Cold Brew and Tea alongside Bloodies and “Bar Snacks,” the house filtered Coffee served bottomless while Lattes including Red Velvet with a Cream Cheese rim are expectedly smooth and sweet.
Always happy to see Pink Box, a pair of Las Vegas’ best fried Rings joined by housemade “Cruffin Muffins” that eat like laminated Cinnamon Rolls starting things off, it was alongside two of the aforementioned “Bar Snacks” that Breakfast rolled out, a Whiskey-based Cocktail mellowed by Kahlua and Grand Marnier still a bit much so early but the “PB and J” easy drinking even for lightweights thanks to dehydrated Peanut Butter plus Berry Syrup.
Without doubt a place prone to over-ordering, portion sizes far larger than prices ranging $8-18 for everything but Steak would suggest, it was continuing sweet that Funnel Cake French Toast impressed, the fried Bread Pudding hefty but not greasy beneath Cream Cheese Icing and stewed Berries while “Coffee & Wonuts” thinks outside the box to meld several flavors into a composition that becomes something more than the sum of its parts.
Polarizing with a Peach Cobbler Pancake, the skillet-baked behemoth deemed too dense by some while others likened it to Cornbread and overindulged, there was no argument regarding the quality of Chef Kudrak’s Miso Crab Omelet, the Thai-inspired Salad easily added or subtracted to taste and $14.99 a veritable steal for so much Meat plus two mashed and fried Potato Cakes on the side.
Extending Breakfast with The Brass Fork’s Burnt Ends Hash, an on-site smoker providing Brisket complimented by a mélange of Peppers and Onions plus two types of crispy Potatoes, it was Squid cut like “Fish Sticks” that transitioned to later-day, a combination of Capers and herbal Aioli careful to not overwhelm much like the touch of sweetened Chili Oil drizzled atop Crab Rangoon Flatbread accentuates a taste identical to its inspiration.
Stumbling with “Almost” Boneless Fried Chicken, the Sauce too liberally applied and Biscuit beneath excessively dense, it was a pair of Sandwiches that instead stole the spotlight, a towering Muffaletta for just $14 easily shared by two or more while the similarly priced Grilled Cheese comes party-sized and stretchy inside Bread that is buttered and pressed thin.
Unable to resist “Bucatini & BBQ Balls,” a goofy idea that will nonetheless please fans of Macaroni and Cheese thanks to properly cooked Pasta and orbs of Pork with tangy Sauce, it is for Dessert that The Brass Fork features Cakes, Shakes and Sundaes in addition to the Pastry Case, a slice of Apple Pie deconstructed and surrounded by Soft Serve certainly outperforming the usual “Parfait” while the Pineapple Upside Down Boozy Shake tastes a lot like its namesake right down to the Cherry on top.
FOUR STARS: Judged in the context of similar spots around town The Brass Fork outperforms most on intention alone, and with the West Side sorely lacking for good breakfast spots a true 24/7 menu full of innovative ideas quickly ups the ante for both the genre and area while prices are more than fair considering quantity as well as quality.
RECOMMENDED: Glazed Cronut, Funnel Cake French Toast, Miso Crab Omelet, Calamari Sticks, Crab Rangoon Flatbread, Panini Grilled Cheese, Muffaletta, Apple Pie a la Mode Parfait, Pineapple Upside Down Boozy Shake, White Chocolate Macadamia Nut Cookie.
AVOID: Almost Boneless Fried Chicken needs work, Chocolate Peanut Butter Banana Shake needs less Banana, Chocolate Twist is too dry, Carl’s Donuts are garbage.
TIP: Like all Station Casinos properties parking is always free, even valet.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Cheesecake, Graham Cracker Crust, Strawberries, Whipped Cream
Opened in September 2018 by Nectaly Mendoza, the owner of Herbs & Rye expanding east of Las Vegas Boulevard to an area frequented by tourists but at the same time appealing to locals, it was for a party of six that reservations were booked at Cleaver – Butchered Meats, Seafood & Cocktails, inquires via website regarding a private room completely ignored which thereby decreased the group’s size and budget.
Tucked into Suite D1 of 3900 Paradise Road, a shopping plaza also housing Tacos & Beer plus Jersey Mike’s, it is after eyes adjust to low-lighting that guests will find themselves in front of an attended hostess stand, the bar stretching left fully stocked by patrons and Booze while dining rooms expand right and back, eventually forming a loop around the PDR and Restrooms.
Decorated in regal images of pop-culture icons, everyone from Bill Murray and Eddie Murphy to Queen Latifah and Chris Farley spread across a space featuring severe wallpaper and wood, it is across four pages that Food and Beverage are presented, the “Porn Star” pushed heavily by staff while Cleaver’s Beer List offers foreign and domestic favorites at prices far less egregious than The Strip.
Offering no televisions but instead music at moderate volume, enough to drown the sounds of others but not inhibit conversation, it is porting over Herbs & Rye’s popular Happy Hour that many deals can be found, the lack of an online menu somewhat frustrating but *starred* Appetizers and Steaks with an italicized “C” half-off from 5:00pm-8:00pm and midnight to 3:00am daily.
Dining with a group less-experienced than usual, four having never seen Bone Marrow on a menu nor tasted Liver, it was with house-baked Bread that dinner got started, the hearty crust and soft crumb good with or without Butter and particularly well adapted for sopping up Sauces including Egg Yolk studded with Roe from half-priced Squid Ink Pasta or Pomodoro that picks up flavor from Short Rib served atop Gnocchi that was unfortunately a bit gummy.
Impressed by the $15 Double Wedge, both portion-size and Produce exceeding expectations while thick pieces of Bacon and finely-chopped Egg each accentuate Blue Cheese Dressing, it was next that the aforementioned Marrow and Foie Gras that made their way around, a lack of appropriately sized spoon making the former difficult to liberate from its vessel and natural flavor mostly muted by Fruit while $28 Duck Liver fortunately performed better and made new fans thanks to a good sear that placed caramelized exterior in contrast with fluffy Pancakes plus Blackberries and Crème Fraiche on the plate.
Refusing a tablemate’s request for Steak to be cooked “Medium-well or Well,” even the menu joking that the latter temperature is “Burnt and Pointless,” it was instead erring closer to Medium-Rare that the server volunteered to further cook parts for those in need, the Beef itself well-seasoned and a steal at $105 for 60oz during Happy Hour while sides ranged from Creamed Corn spun Mexican to fairly standard Brussels Sprouts and big slices of Pork Belly atop gooey Macaroni and Cheese.
Falling short with Mushroom Risotto and Bourbon Shallot Potatoes, the Rice undercooked and in need of Salt while Potatoes were clumpy and coagulated as if made hours earlier and re-warmed for service, it was instead Steak Fries that stole the spotlight, each one light and crisp whether plain or dipped in housemade Béarnaise that was ordered for the Steak but found less compelling for that purpose than unctuous Foie Gras Butter.
Offering just three Desserts, Crème Brulee omitted in favor of Doughnuts and Cheesecake recited tableside, those who fancy fried Dough will be happy to know Cleaver serves both rounds and holes piping hot beneath a duo of Sauces while the New York-style wedge features plenty of creaminess without being too heavy atop a Graham Cracker Crust.
THREE STARS: One part built on Nectaly Mendoza’s rightfully renowned Cocktails but also upping the ante in terms of decor, Cleaver – Butchered Meats, Seafood & Cocktails brings Herbs & Rye’s popular Happy Hour East of Las Vegas Boulevard and although ingredient quality and cookery are sometimes not ideal the overall experience is better than the average off-Strip Steakhouse.
RECOMMENDED: House Bread, Squid Ink Pasta, Cleaver Double Wedge Salad, Foie Gras, Steak House Fries.
House Salad with Lettuce, Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Pepperoncini, Carrots, Red Cabbage, Balsamic Vinaigrette
Homemade Garlic Knots
Tower Isles Jamaican Beef Patty
Penne with Tomato Sauce
Sicilian Pie with Garlic, Olive Oil, Pizza Sauce, Mozzarella, Pepperoni
Sicilian Pie with Garlic, Olive Oil, Pizza Sauce, Mozzarella, Meatballs, Ricotta
Eggplant Delight Pizza with Ricotta, Grandma’s Sauce, Fresh Basil
Grandma’s Pie with Sweet Plum Tomatoes, Garlic, Basil Sauce, Mozzarella, Pepperoni
White Pizza with Garlic, Olive Oil, Ricotta, Mozzarella, Parmesan
Stuffed Meatlovers Pizza with Canadian Bacon, Pepperoni, Sausage, Meatballs
Classic Cheese Pizza with Pizza Sauce, Mozzarella, Pepperoni
Classic Cheese Pizza with Pizza Sauce, Mozzarella
Homemade Zeppole with Powdered Sugar
Opened by Joey Gonzalez during the first week of 2019 it was on the recommendation of others that Brooklyn’s Best Pizza and Pasta was called upon Thursday, a requested 11:30am delivery for #supportlocal lunch missed by five-minutes and the two youngsters responsible additionally forgetting plates though they did volunteer to return with them nearly twenty minutes later.
Boasting via website about Mr. Gonzalez’s background, a passion for “quality over quantity” built on years of experience and, apparently, seeing things done the wrong way, it on the promise of “true authentic Pizza” that Brooklyn’s Best is built, a look at the menu showing several styles available for on-site dining, take-out or delivery.
Unquestionably a customer-service oriented establishment, both owner and staff helpful whether by phone or online, it was using the web-based system that an order was placed, prices comparable to that of Metro and a location at 5270 South Fort Apache Road assuring everything was delivered temperature appropriate.
Targeting variety both for the group and overall assessment of quality, the House Salad nicely portioned with Dressing on the side and an order of Penne with Tomato Sauce not tasted but enjoyed by those who did, it is instead starting with Garlic Knots that Rodriguez’s Dough delivers more heft than others, the use of Garlic Powder instead of Cloves or Confit probable and the overall effect not particularly enjoyable while Beef Patties imported frozen from Tower Isles Frozen Foods Ltd show a lack of effort to create something new, though both texture and flavor are pleasant.
Selecting eight Pies across four styles, the triangles also sold by the Slice apparently Brooklyn’s Best idea of what New York Pizza should be, suffice it to say that whether due to transport or under-proofing none featured any sort of crunch along the bottom nor the sort of rigidity that stands up to folding, a sad situation as Ingredient quality is otherwise good from creamy Ricotta to crispy Eggplant and extra-large slices of Pepperoni.
Next tasting the “Stuffed Meatlovers Pizza,” a weighty mess that is soaked through with Grease from Canadian Bacon, Pepperoni, Sausage and Meatballs, it was hoping for better that two Sicilian’s were tasted, the bake better than the rest but a lack of fermentation evident as each wedge was fairly flat though the crispy bottom stood up well to both Pepperoni and a heavier combination of Meatballs and Ricotta.
Mistaking “Grandma’s Pie” for a Grandma-style Pie, the former essentially Brooklyn’s Best Sicilian made thinner and divided into four enormous slices with sweeter Sauce, it was for Dessert that the only item labeled “Homemade” was requested, these Zeppole a far cry from those at Naked City and smaller pieces almost inedible thanks to the amount of grease and tough consistency.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone it will take an on-site visit to determine whether Brooklyn’s Best Pizza and Pasta deserves its early praise, but having catered from several of Las Vegas’ BEST signs so far indicate that this place is barely better than average and for all the talk about “quality over quantity” the menu and execution makes one question the validity of those claims.
RECOMMENDED: Eggplant Delight Pizza, Sicilian with Pepperoni, Towers Isles Jamaican Beef Patty (though one could just as easily order a box and bake them at home.)
Originally opened in June of 2018, a location not far from Khai Vu’s ever-popular District One allowing the Chef and owner to move between spaces while also taking time as necessary to remain involved at DTLV’s Le Pho, it was as a party of six that guests squeezed into Mordeo Boutique Wine Bar on Wednesday, another packed Off-Strip Restaurant great to see but comfort undeniably compromised as a result.
Following in the footsteps of Sparrow + Wolf regarding what “Chinatown” Restaurants can be, an address of 5420 Spring Mountain Road drawing diners ever-further west for what might best be described as Spanish Cuisine with Japanese sensibilities, it is upon entering the white building that guests will immediately notice a central glass Wine Cellar filled nearly floor-to-ceiling, the display impressive but also substantially cutting down on seating.
Largely built around two bars, the first wrapping glass countertops around Mordeo’s cellar while another resides in front of the kitchen and grill, it was mainly the group size and a need for all members to interact that led to table seating while a large birthday party otherwise filled space, their constant movement and substantial drinking frequently leading to bumped seats and ear-splitting volumes.
Recently changing the menu, something one will not find on the Restaurant’s website not accurately on opentable, it was deferring carte-blanche at $125 to Khai and his staff that dinner commenced with three Meats and two Cheeses, air-dried Beef that melts on the tongue like a communion-Wafer highlighting the former while funky and spreadable Blue tasted great on its own but even better with Fig Jam on toasted Bread.
Next going “fusion,” wood-grilled Octopus and smoky Potatoes each faultless in terms of texture and brightened by Soy plus Citrus, it is further showcasing sourcing that Mordeo offers Nigerian U3 Prawns, a brush of umami-packed Butter playing well off the Crustacean’s natural sweetness while those so inclined are encouraged to add a twist of Lime.
Priced aggressively for the area, but still a bargain compared to The Strip, it was by request that Chef Vu next presented “Morcilla de Arroz,” the finely-ground Blood Sausage tempered by Herbs and Egg Yolk but still packing tons of flavor, as too does the $138 Tomahawk whose aged-funk is magnified by a tableside brush of Brown Butter.
Skimpy with Toast, a request for more to enjoy the Morcilla going unanswered while share plates and silverware often trailed new dishes by more than a minute, it was on the heels of Wild Mushrooms and traditional Papas Bravas that one final savory was offered, thin slices of Acorn-fed Pork warmed by a candle again showing no expense sparred in terms of ingredients thought the Tomato-brushed Bread would have benefitted by being more crispy.
Concluding with Dessert, Chef’s choice of three omitting only the intriguing idea of Caviar and Ice Cream, it was instead a combination of Spanish and French that saw airy Flan topped in bitter Caramel while Churros made with Abuelita Chocolate in the Batter were unfortunately too dense, the better bet instead sipping Vietnamese Coffee atop Ice Cream while indulging in one of Sin City’s most refined slices of Bread Pudding.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Typically leery of Stateside “Tapas” Mordeo Boutique Wine Bar undoubtedly ups the ante in terms of Off-Strip Ingredient quality, but considering the price-point one would expect not only better service but an environment where comfort is considered equally important as looking good.
RECOMMENDED: Soy Mirin Pulpo, Morcilla de Arroz, Papas Bravas, Iberico de Bellota, Croissant Bread Pudding.
AVOID: Charcuterie Board is overpriced compared to others in town while Churros would be better without the cheap Chocolate. Seating at the back bar additionally seems like the best bet to avoid being jostled by servers and patrons every couple minutes.
TIP: Open 5:00pm until midnight daily, though how best to find a current menu besides scouring Yelp! is anyone’s guess.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Although only officially open to the public since March 21st it was in search of someplace to watch the NCAA Tournament that three guests entered BLVD & MAIN on Sunday, a spacious location next to the Sportsbook part of ongoing renovations at The STRAT and the experience already quite impressive.
Described as a Taphouse but an all-ages affair targeting fans, something less common than many would imagine even as Las Vegas has become more family friendly, it is via illuminated menu near the ground-floor entrance that guests are presented a list of thirty-plus items ranging from “Social Appetizers” to Desserts, hostesses inside happy to assist with seating whether in a bar lined with televisions or the dining room decorated urban-chic.
A concept long in development, dishes from former collaborators as well as Bart Mahoney and Charline Padgett executed by Chef Johannes Bernau, it was with greetings from an affable server recently relocated from New England that suggestions were offered, the decision not to imbibe entirely based on work the next day though both Beers and Cocktails are wide-ranging and priced a few dollars less than they typically are on The Strip.
Not particularly busy at 6:00pm, though the crowd picked up shortly thereafter, it was with both video and sound from Ohio State versus Houston that course one was presented, a sharable bowl of Tomato Bisque for just $6 marred by the fact that it wasn’t quite hot enough while Pretzel Bites and “Bierocks” containing tender Short Rib in a Dutch Crunch Bun were each beautifully executed and good on their own, but even better with housemade Beer Cheese.
Firing Entrees soon thereafter, a rounded booth with USB Chargers amongst the most comfortable “Bar Seating” in Sin City, it was with the game already tilting towards The Cougars that three more plates arrived, Poutine with Gravy on the side assuring Fries more crispy than most while Stone-Oven Flatbread and Sliders cooked just shy of Medium don’t look to reinvent the wheel but instead highlight good ingredients executed properly.
Saving space for something sweet, an area frequently neglected by Bars both on Las Vegas Boulevard and in the community, it was alongside Coffee that all four of BLVD & MAIN’s Desserts were offered, the $22 “Fondue For Sharing” most certainly that as Raspberry, Caramel, Coconut, Chocolate and Cookies & Cream Marshmallows come ready to be dipped in melted Ganache and stacked on Graham Crackers while the molten Chocolate Cake in a jar is equally rich and similar in spirit for those who prefer something individually sized.
Angling lighter with Apple Pie Flautas, the Fruit suspended in Cream Cheese reminiscent of preparations found in Amish Country, it was finally beneath a tableside pour of Buttered Rum Sauce that Sticky Toffee Pudding stole the spotlight, each bite expectedly sweet but nicely balanced by plenty of Booze and tangy Ice Cream at the bargain-basement price of just nine dollars.
FOUR STARS: Still brand new and at times aggressively priced it will be interesting to see how customers react to BLVD & MAIN, but no matter how one feels about the #stratrising rebrand a comfortable all-ages Taphouse with plenty of sports on television and shockingly good Desserts certainly stands out.
RECOMMENDED: Bierocks, Carnivore Flatbread, Poutine, Apple Pie Flautas, Toffee Cake.
AVOID: In this instance the Tomato Bisque was compromised by being tepid, though flavor was good, and although designed “For Sharing” the amount of Ganache served for Fondue is far too much and something that could be decreased by at least a quarter thereby lowering the price to under $20 and making it more appealing to cost-conscious diners.
TIP: Not yet celebrating their Grand Opening, but serving Sunday-Thursday from 11am to 10pm and Friday-Saturday till 2am, expect more changes in décor and menu going forward.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Slater’s Pick Two – Bacon Mac and Cheese Balls, Crispy Onion Rings, Tapatio Ranch, BBQ Sauce
The Slater’s 50/50 Hot Dog – Bacon-wrapped 50/50 Hot Dog, Poppy Seed Brioche Bun, Onions, Relish, Mustard, Ketchup, Slater’s Bacon Ketchup, French Fries
24K Burger – 1/2lb Australian Wagyu Beef Patty, Brioche Bun dusted with 24-Karat Gold, Billionaire Bacon, Bacon Jam, Baby Arugula, Roasted Garlic Aioli, Truffle Cheese, Demi Glace, Side of Sweet Potato Fries with Pumpkin Sauce
Pork Belly Benedict – Crispy Pork Belly, Poached Eggs, Chipotle Hollandaise, Freshly Baked Buttermilk Biscuits, Tater Tot Country Potatoes
Fried Chicken + Bacon Pancakes – Fluffy Pancakes with chunks of Bacon, Fried Chicken, Country Gravy, Sunny-side Up Eggs, Maple Syrup
Originally opened by Scott Slater in Anaheim Hills in 2009, and now occupying 467 East Silverado Ranch Boulevard since July, it was in search of someplace showing the NCAA Tournament that Slater’s 50/50 was visited on Sunday, a “Wake N’ Bacon” Breakfast beginning at 9:00am on Weekends strangely ending at 11:00am but owner Andy graciously agreeing to prepare a couple items thirty minutes late in addition to some of the Lunch & Dinner choices.
Famous for their blend of 50% Beef / 50% Bacon, and now inhabiting three States including their lone Las Vegas franchise, it is between walls of taps that guests enter suite 100 of the Southeast commercial center, a hostess podium straight ahead offering seating at a banquette with full view of at least a dozen televisions plus the bustling kitchen.
Showing sports with the sound off, pop radio overhead loud enough to be heard but not disrupt, it was with greetings from an inked female sever who stated Breakfast ends “at 10:30” that Water was poured and menus distributed, her apologies noteworthy as she tried to make the situation better by offering alternatives including some specials.
Disappointed but not dissuaded, miscommunications overcome while Appetizers were being prepared, it was beginning with a stack of Onion Rings and Slater’s Bacon-imbued Fried Macaroni and Cheese that light Batter proved noteworthy, a follow-up of Ground Beef and Bacon with Potato Chips added for crunch also enjoyable and certainly better than the average family’s “Sloppy Joe night.”
Convinced to try the Vampire Dip by two regulars, fears of late-day reflux unfounded as the roasted Heads are nicely tempered by a Cheese blend and pureed Artichokes, it was finishing off all but a quarter of the Bread Bowl that The Slater’s 50/50 Hot Dog arrived, the eponymous ingredient here packaged thick and snappy with a Sonora-style wrap plus plenty of Condiments so that diners may dress it as they like.
More impressed by Slater’s Fries this time, both classic Spuds and those made from hand-cut Sweet Potatoes crisp and well salted, it was at the request of a friend that Slater’s $24 “24K Burger” arrived spotlight-ready, a dusting of edible Gold making for fun pictures while the Sandwich itself shines thanks to finely-ground Australian Wagyu that stands up well to truffled Cheese and Bacon while the buttered Brioche Bun maintains its structure admirably in the face of Aioli and Demi-glace.
Waiting a bit longer for Breakfast items, made-to-order Hollandaise with more smoke than heat largely responsible, it was likely an effect of time that saw “crispy” Pork Belly a little flaccid atop Buttermilk Biscuits, though Tots in a tangle of Onions and golden-fried Chicken with Two Pancakes, Country Gravy and plenty of Bacon proved well-worth getting up early on a Sunday for.
FOUR STARS: Although Slater’s 50/50 seems to be missing out on an opportunity to differentiate itself from local competition by cutting Breakfast so short, a decision ownership claims is due to an overwhelming demand for Burgers by 11:00am, both Food and environment remain enjoyable while service and expediting have both improved since opening.
RECOMMENDED: Slater’s Vampire Dip, Bacon Mac and Cheese Balls, Sweet Potato Fries, Fried Chicken + Bacon Pancakes, 24K Burger (or building your own a la carte without the Gold.)
AVOID: As above, the Pork Belly was not crisp and those sensitive to Salt may find Slater’s 50/50 Hot Dog a bit heavy-handed.
TIP: Open 11a-10p Monday through Thursday, till midnight on Friday and Saturday with Brunch also offered on weekends beginning at nine o’clock, though whether the stop time is 11:00am as listed on the website, 10:30am as quoted by staff or otherwise per phone remains nebulous.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Meatloaf Patty Melt, Ginger BBQ, Raclette with Spicy Tots, Ketchup
Just The Tip – George Dickel Rye, Grand Marnier, Mint, Fresh Lemon, Vanilla, Apricot Preserves
“Pasta” Puttanesca, Calamari Noodle, Anchovy
Jerk Turkey Burger, Mango Chutney Slaw with Spicy Tots, Ketchup
The Magarian – Aviation Gin, Thyme & Honey Syrup, Fresh Lemon, Mr. Q Cumber Soda
Chicken Thighs, Tagine Spice, Apricot Relish
Tahini Carrots, Garbanzo, Crispy Quinoa
Sea Bass, Cauliflower Tabbouleh, Chili Oil
Pork Katsu, Gochujang, Tonkatsu
Amaro
Bourbon Fudge Brownie, Brown Butter Bacon Ice Cream
Glazed Donut Bread Pudding, Three Rum Caramel, Vanilla Crème Anglaise
Peanut Butter Banana Cheesecake, Strawberry Créme De Cacao
While exploring new Eateries remains essential to an understanding of dining culture there comes a point where one invariably develops favorites, and when guests from out of town want to see Las Vegas’ best it is these Restaurants that can be counted on to offer a memorable meal, something that Carson Kitchen has been doing for almost five years without once showing any signs of slowing.
Walking a tightrope of accessible and innovative, no small feat in an era where social media has blurred the line separating what is good and that which is trendy, it is immediately upon entry to 124 South 6th Street that guests are greeted by hostesses, bar to the right and dining room left both typically buzzing while outdoor seating is also offered when the weather is agreeable.
Still the king of DTLV, contenders for Kerry Simon and Cory Harwell’s crown coming and going but few showing any staying-power in and industry of constant change, it was seated as six at a table in front of the Chef’s counter that Spring 2019’s menu was encountered, a few old favorites starting things off including Tempura Green Beans given a southern slant plus oft-copied Chicken Skins and blistering hot Bacon Jam ready to be slathered on Crostini.
Pouring seasonal Cocktails alongside new items and perennial favorites with the classics, Matthew Harwell’s imagination often referencing music while updating something familiar, it is rethinking the “Last Word” with Merriam-Webster’s literal version that Brazilian Cachaça highlights “Zyzzyva,” the addition of Citrus and Luxardo pairing well to creamy Chicken Liver that sees its minerality balanced by Cherry-Fernet Jam while an all new Salad of chopped Endives dressed sweet and smoky challenges last season’s Brussels Sprout Caesar in terms of its ability to make an otherwise polarizing Vegetable desirable to the masses.
Next taking Tiki Drinks in new directions with Pisco and Peppers, the vegetal finish unexpected but far more “Food-friendly” than the usual spicy Cocktail, it is using just three ingredients that Spring’s Flatbread sees melted Leeks accented by Béchamel and Bacon, a touch of Truffle Oil unnecessary but not unpleasant while Kerry Simon’s legendary Meatloaf is reborn as Carson Kitchen’s new Patty Melt which trends a bit sweet thanks to Barbecue Sauce carried atop gooey Raclette and caramelized Onions.
Continuing with “Just The Tip,” a Whisky-based Beverage for those who never knew they liked the stuff, it is with unexpected smoothness that Vanilla and Grand Marnier blend with Apricot, a minty linger helping to cool Cory’s Jerk Turkey as well as “Pasta” Puttanesca that sees Squid sliced, tenderized and cooked like Noodles before being tossed in Sauce invigorated by Red Pepper Flakes and Anchovies.
Not missing The Magarian, a smooth every-day sipper and must for first-timers, savories concluded with Sea Bass topped in finely-chopped Cauliflower alongside Chili Oil streaks, a dish certainly not suited for everyone while global-inspirations from Cory and Executive Chef Scott Simon feature boldly across tangy Tahini Carrots, crispy Pork dressed in fermented Chilis and juicy Chicken Thighs coated in Herbs and piled with pickled Fruit.
Not feeling like Coffee, small pours of Amaro instead accompanying Dessert, it should go without saying that after fifty-nine months both Carson Kitchen’s Bourbon Fudge Brownie as well as the Donut Bread Pudding have reached iconic status, and taking on Cheesecake for just the second time it is equally safe to assume Peanut Butter, Bananas and Strawberry with a bit of booze is just as good as it sounds.
FIVE STARS: Although Las Vegas’ resident curmudgeon recently suggested Carson Kitchen “may have lost its edge, but can still stun you with an occasional special,” endoedibles has attended every menu change across three years and rarely found any item less than tasty, many outright delicious including several from the recently-debuted Spring 2019 collection. From old favorites like Chicken Skins and The Magarian to brand new stars such as Chicken Liver Mousse, “Pasta” Puttanesca, Pork Katsu and Just The Tip these folks have never had to rely on “secret” menus or blue-plates to impress because the concept has always been something special.
RECOMMENDED: Zyzzyva, Just The Tip, The Magarian, Tempura Green Beans, Crispy Chicken Skins, Bacon Jam, Chicken Liver Mousse, “Pasta” Puttanesca, Chicken Thighs, Bourbon Fudge Brownie, Peanut Butter Banana Cheesecake.
AVOID: Two at the table felt Meatloaf was too sweet while four raved it, but all agreed the Sea Bass was better off without Chili Oil (though the plating graciously allows guests the opportunity to make that decision for themselves.)
TIP: 11:30a-10:00p Sunday through Thursday and till 11:00pm on Friday as well as Saturday.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Slider Buns, BBQ Sauce, Hot Sauce, Carolina Sauce, Pickles, Onions, Jalapeno Peppers, Apple Pie
Coleslaw
Potato Salad
Mac & Cheese
Cornbread
Hot Links, Pulled Pork, Lean Brisket, Fatty Brisket, Tri-Tip, Smoked Turkey, Baby Back Ribs
Apple Pie
With another caterer unwilling to fulfill their promise it was late Wednesday evening that Big B’s Texas BBQ was contacted to fill-in with just 12-hours notice, co-owner Natalia Badzjo proving once again why she and husband Brian Buechner have been a #supportlocal lunch favorite since day one by delivering in a timely fashion for twenty-five guests.
Now a part of Henderson for three years, and Sin City’s best place for Barbecue just as long, it was at 11:30am that the smell of smoke began to drift forth from the office lunch room, the vast majority of staff ignoring another event featuring Chickpeas in favor of stacks of Meat plus sides including Coleslaw and Mac & Cheese.
Always looking like a bargain in terms of portion and quality compared to cost, $500 all-inclusive on this day yielding what seemed like enough Food to feed around sixty, it was beginning with Cornbread that plate one was loaded, pulled Pork taking well to housemade Sauce while Ribs are excellent unadorned, a scoop of still-hot Mac & Cheese the first of two and the tray predictably emptied quickly.
Still impressed by Big B’s Spice Rub, everything from Turkey and Tri-Tip to Fatty Brisket well-flavored but at the same time allowing Meat and wood imported from Texas an opportunity to express its natural flavor, plate two featured three types of Beef plus snappy Sausage, the presenter particularly praiseful of the latter as well as Potato Salad that remains polarizing amongst a mostly Hispanic office.
Saving Turkey for another day, the lean Breast perfect for less indulgent meals and those counting calories, it was with following more fluffy Cornbread, Meat and Macaroni that a generous wedge of Apple Pie was enjoyed, the Sugar-shellacked Crust making every bite sweet but the amount of Cinnamon balancing things nicely and necessitating another slice briefly warmed in the Microwave a few hours later.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone it was a disastrous lunch from Famous Dave’s that got the #supportlocal idea going in May of 2018, Big B’s Texas BBQ immediately stepping up and becoming a go-to both then and now with the experience never less than exemplary.
RECOMMENDED: Fatty Brisket, Hot Links, Smoked Turkey, Mac & Cheese, Cornbread, Apple Pie.
TIP: Available via Yelp! Online Ordering, GrubHub, EZCater or calling the Restaurant directly the staff at Big B’s makes catering easy and efficient in addition to offering great value on the dollar.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Regular Carnitas Burrito Dorado-Style – Pinto Beans, Pico de Gallo
From a James Beard Foundation award to numerous local accolades there may be no more famous Taco shop in America than that located at 2889 Mission Street, and en route to SFO the frenetic space added three more fans to its ever growing list.
Closed Monday and Tuesday, with long lines from open to close otherwise, La Taqueria has been a staple of The Mission since 1972 and remains so today for good reason.
Accepting cash only, and allowing a la carte customization while ordering in-line, it is like a well rehearsed ballet watching staff and diners interact, and although arrival during off-hours is recommended the queue moves quickly even during the lunch rush.
From tender Lengua to juicy roasted Chicken the attention to detail is visible while prices remain reasonable, though savvy guests will be wise to bring cash and make everything “Dorado-style” at no added cost.
Rare to revisit Restaurants when traveling, even those that are particularly impressive, there was simply no resisting Belinda Leong after almost five years – and for the third time her mastery of everything from Muffins to Viennoiserie at b. patisserie remains largely unmatched stateside.
Now in business for herself since 2012, stints at Manresa and Pierre Herme laying the foundation for what will likely soon be a Beard Award-winning career, it is at the corner of California and Divisadero that patrons will find a collection of items sweet and savory, the counter wrapping an open kitchen offering more than a glimpse of processes streamlined to yield both volume and uncompromising quality.
Carefully bridging French technique and American sensibilities, Leong and partner Michel Suas creating over two-dozen items daily, those in the know will first take time to peruse seasonal options before making choices, though those with a substantial appetite may just be better off starting left and working right at risk of ordering with eyes bigger than their stomachs.
Opting for the latter approach, a total of nine Pastries tallying just over $40, it was finding a comfortable seat in the widow that indulgence was underway, bites of Madeline flecked by Sesame attesting to a keen sense of balance while the Carrot Bran Muffin was far less sweet than anticipated, yet still moist and saturated with Spices.
Thrilled to see pint-size Kugelhopf, an Alsatian specialty here featuring California White Raisins suspended in Brioche baked golden, it was quickly finishing this that attention turned to a Cornmeal Scone riddled by Blueberries, the bite-to-bite textural variance an impressive feat, as too was the degree of lamination achieved by Pain Suisse that seems only painted with Custard to anchor the Chocolate Chips.
Not about to pass on Kouign Amann, the very reason so many make their trip to Lower Pacific Heights, it was disccovering a combination of Pineapple Jam and shredded Coconut that this iteration took on a tropical tinge, the Apple Almond Croissant to follow unfortunately failing to compare since the bottom was quite soggy and corners overly sweet.
Finishing with Cookies and Cake, the former layering Dark Chocolate Wafers in Butter, Flour and Sugar to achieve a texture not unlike Fudge, it is for $7 that guests can find even more richness in the form of Chocolate Caramel Toffee Mousse, the flourless Biscuit base doing a fine job of standing up to the bittersweet satin mound and shiny Ganache on top.
Although many rightfully consider San Francisco a World-class dining destination the lack of Donuts compared to Southern California is striking, whether a testament to the city’s wealth or a focus on health one is frankly more likely to find a $5 Croissant than 99-cent piece of fried Dough and Johnny Doughnuts does absolutely nothing to improve the scene by charging far too much for mediocrity.
Born out of San Rafael in 2012, and subsequently opening its Fillmore outpost some five years later, it is even prior to entry that guests at 392 Fulton Street will catch a whiff of Yeast and Vanilla in the air, staff consisting of one baker and two disinterested clerks going through their daily duties in monotone without smiles.
Larger than necessary, the cost of rent likely in-part responsible for Pastries ranging $3.75-$4.50 it was after reading a tale of Doughnuts “inspired by the seasons” that a half-dozen were requested, the woman grumbling “Twists count as two” quickly curtailing the order to five at roughly $25 when accounting for taxes.
Dining elsewhere, the Coffee also exorbitant and overhead music loud, it was after unboxing that teeth first penetrated a “Caramel Apple Fritter,” the interior devoid of Fruit or flavor making one wonder whose cruel joke this is while the Glazed Cinnamon Twist was dry anywhere not shellacked with Glaze but at least aromatic and enjoyable on both ends.
Frankly surprised, all the talk of “local ingredients” and “small batch” production making one think of places like Blue Star or Doughnut Plant, it was finally a Vanilla glazed Old Fashioned straight-out-the fryer that showed signs of quality, spices suspended in a tangy base contrasting with crunchy edges while the Cinnamon Roll with similar Topping also tasted good, and thanks to its thickness also maintained more moisture than the Twist.
Saving Chocolate for last, the name “Crodough” espousing expectations of lamination, it was instead dense and sticky that Johnny Doughnuts’ version was piped with Custard, the round thus taking on the semblance of a Bavarian or Bismark that was decent but certainly not great, nor worth its cost or calories.
Now with two So.Cal locations plus the original owner’s Supermoon in Manhattan it seemed prudent to visit Mr. Holmes’ flagship while in San Francisco, 9:00am on a Wednesday still sporting a short line for Cruffins and the service largely perfunctory but overall quality nonetheless strong for something essentially built by Instagram.
Serving The Bay Area for nearly five years, the now-iconic logo and clever signage all part of a package since replicated from coast-to-coast, it is via slow shuffle that guests enter the space at 1042 Larkin Street, a mother and daughter squealing in disappointment at dysfunctional neon but soon posing for at least a dozen photos regardless.
Offering no seats but plenty of swag, “Free Range Pastry” and “Kale Sucks” totes admittedly humorous, it was in exchange for nearly $35 that six items were carefully boxed, first bites of a Cornflake Cookie occurring at the hotel within thirty minutes and the modest sweetness with crisp rim and soft center attesting to an appreciation for balance.
Moving next to the Cheesecake Crème Brulee Danish, an impressive amount of lamination holding up to Custard that is torched just shy of burnt, it is unfortunate that too much Thyme compromised an otherwise enjoyable ball of sugared Brioche while Mr. Holmes’ empire-building hybrid came half-full of whipped Mascarpone and bold Coffee notes.
Listing only Donuts and Cruffins on the website, but offering approximately twenty items daily, it was from several more Viennoiseries that two were purchased, both slightly over-baked with Birthday Cake less-so and the Funfetti center surprisingly very much like its namesake in terms of both taste and texture.
Highly touted by Bon Appetite Magazine ever since opening, an early arrival at Arsicault Bakery remains recommended, the fact that such a place continues to thrive with no website or social media in the era of Instagram a testament to its old-school approach that remains appealing to Bay Area purists.
Opened by Armando Lacayo in 2015, an Inner Richmond location separating the shop from competition and creating the sort of neighborhood feel likely to draw locals on foot, it is from residential streets that guests may access Arsicault beginning at 7:00am on weekdays, the interior filling fast while weekends frequently sell out of popular items shortly after opening at eight o’clock.
Not the only Bakery in town by any stretch, but making a name for itself with old-world recipes and classic technique from the start, it is entering the space from street level that guests will find a small counter featuring less than a dozen choices, a faint smell of Yeast tickling the nares while staff take turns taking orders, bagging items and replenishing stock from the kitchen upstairs.
Bustling but never hurried, a vastly different crowd from the sort found at Mr. Holmes at least partially responsible, it was in exchange for nearly $30 including tax and tip that five items were ported upstairs on separate plates, first bites of a still-warm Morning Bun falling short of Tartine’s excellence, though still enjoyable, while the golden Scone offered plenty of Butter plus pockets of Fruit while eating more like a Biscuit than the typical British version.
Moving next to Kouign Amann, flatter than the one at b.patisserie but structurally similar in regard to caramelization and layering, it was here that things took a dramatic turn for the worse as Arsicault’s Almond Croissant was found far too sweet thanks to Powdered Sugar and gloppy Filling, though the Cookie to finish was better than most as a result of Dark Chocolate Discs as opposed to the usual Chips.
Born in the era of #instagram, logo-walls surrounding tight seating an almost unmistakable calling card for spaces built after 2017, it was as a party of three that seats were taken inside U : Dessert Story on Tuesday evening, the nearly hour-long queue a testament to the concept’s appeal though thankfully circumvented by making a 9:30pm reservation several days in advance.
No doubt targeting a younger crowd, all but two others including staff Asian and under the age of thirty, it was with friendly smiles and apologies for a short wait that guests ranging thirty-nine to sixty-eight years old were offered comfortable seats along the Restaurant’s left side, a combination of thumping music and frenetic pacing at times distracting but largely just fuel for the experience.
Easily located in The Castro as the only place with a line out the door after dark, the space at 3489 16th Street shining like a beacon from a distance, it was having already perused the menu while waiting that decisions came easy, prices ranging $8-$15 yielding mostly sharable selections save for a textbook Crepe Cake made from Young Coconut and served with Sauce so smooth and sweet that each guest will likely want a slice of their own.
Making no mistake in presenting each item camera-ready, a smoking mountain of crushed ice attracting onlookers across the way, it was in the less conspicuous Mango Sticky Rice Bingsoo that $8.50 was invested, both texture and flavor delightful thanks to a combination of Seeds, Snow and Fruit while Honey Brick Toast was unfortunately a bit overcooked and thus dry around exposed edges, but otherwise enjoyable and not overly sweet like so many others.
Key Lime Pie Bon Bon, White Chocolate / Pear Macaron, Pear Butter, Sherry / Candy Cap Éclair, Cocoa Croquelin, Foraged Greens / Lemon Drop Gummy Bear, Olive Oil
Like most of The Bay Area’s most highly regarded Restaurants dinner at Lazy Bear does not come cheap, a nearly-$300 ticket before Beverages the cost of entry to what is essentially an upscale dinner party for forty willing participants, conducted over the course of just under three hours in The Mission.
Started as an underground pop-up, a “lottery” system replaced by online tickets when the concept turned brick-and-mortar, it by request that diners arrive fifteen minutes before their assigned start time to mix and mingle upstairs, a scoop of communal punch bright with Grapefruit as well as Booze followed by several small bites plus Chef Barzelay’s special Pommeau recipe for solos who are introduced by staff and seated across from one another.
The nation’s most highly rated “dinner party” per Michelin, two-stars in the 2019 guide placing Lazy Bear one above Chicago’s EL Ideas and un-rated spots like Playground 2.0 or Travail Kitchen, it is beginning in a well-appointed loft that a flurry of bites arrive in five-minute intervals, the most memorable a lazy-cut Egg emptied and refilled with its scrambled contents plus Hot Sauce and Syrup or the Petit Four of Foie Gras carefully highlighted by Ginger and Fruit.
Proceeding downstairs after half-an-hour, the night’s other solo diner a talkative man from Boston in town for a tech conference, it was toward the head of the table that full-vantage of Chef David and his team was offered, each member subsequently introducing a dish and inviting diners to walk up, get close and ask questions at any time.
Presenting the menu as a “field guide” complete with an area for notes, the ten courses to follow beginning with Parker House Rolls employing Spelt and Rye in combination with tangy Butter, it was following an offer for more Bread that plate one arrived, the combination of salt and bitterness at first startling but soon finding balance with smoke and a sweet linger that led nicely into a follow-up dish featuring generous chunks of Crab suspended in foam atop tender Grits and the Crustacean’s “Brains.”
Serious about sourcing, the menu described by Barzelay as “evolving” rather than changing with the season, it was utilizing both Flesh and Offal of local Abalone that the ninth of fifteen offerings showed well, the crispy Cabbage largely just for texture while flavors of the sea predominated, just as they would with Sacramento White Sturgeon served in a light soup alongside Brandade generously topped with Caviar.
Generous with Beverage pairings, the room growing louder with each course though servers remain a bit stiff, it was after explaining a multi-step process of aging, smoking and grilling that Duck Breast with shattering Skin was served essentially “a l’Orange,” both it and the Vegetable-centric Bordelaise to follow anything but “lazy” and the latter particularly noteworthy as it managed to completely reinvent Celeriac as rich and meaty rather than an earthy Starch.
Ordering Coffee before progressing to Dessert, Lazy Bear’s “Cold Brew” rich and creamy with a hint of Molasses, it was from a trio of Pastry Chefs that six items were presented, the Orange Creamsicle mellow and fun thanks to popping Candy while the Donut to follow was unfortunately dry and unimaginative, the better bites coming as Mignardises including a Pear-shaped Cookie splashed with Sherry and bite-sized Éclair piped with Candy Cap Mushroom Cream.
Although San Francisco remains one of America’s most distinct cities the combination of cost and age have seen many Restaurants shutter over the years, but since 1978 Golden Boy Pizza has been serving North Beach and surrounding areas the same recipe concocted by Peter Sodini when he was just nineteen.
Still situated at 542 Green Street, a second storefront in San Mateo the only other remaining outlet despite previous locations throughout The Bay Area, it is often by a line outside that guests will identify the low-slung shop, though once they get close it is the sight of squares in the window that will draw them in.
Old-school and gritty, a wall full of stickers with standing room only directly adjacent the kitchen and bar, it is from only five styles that visitors are invited to pick, each built on a fluffy Focaccia base that bakes up crisp like a Sicilian but with a bit more heft.
Baking from 11:30am until at least midnight daily, the crew sticking around until two in the morning on Fridays and Saturdays, it was at the off-hour of 4:00pm that two Pies were found fresh out the oven, the $4 slice topped in basic Pepperoni nonetheless performing well thanks to herbaceous Tomato Sauce and creamy Mozzarella while a wedge loaded with Vegetables would have benefitted from Onions being sautéed first, though the interplay of Pesto, Olives and Mushrooms was enjoyable.
Fried Chicken Sandwich – Fried Chicken Breast, Celery, Housemade Apple Slaw, Mayo, Pickles, Bun
Housemade Apple Fritters – Fuji Apples, Cinnamon, Maple Glaze
Although The Bay Area has no lack of Fried Chicken there are few who’ve carved out a niche like The Bird, Chef Blair Warsham’s space in the Financial District bringing a “do one thing and do it well approach” to the scene since 2016 and showing no signs of slowing down if the line on Tuesday at noon was any indication.
No frills and focused only on Sandwiches, Salads, Fries, Fritters and Biscuits, a 7:30am opening on weekdays additionally offering Bacon and Eggs, it is beneath signage featuring a Fox that guests will find access, limited seating immediately in front of and to the side of an open kitchen with a few seats also offered outside.
Located at 115 New Montgomery Street and anything but “everything to anyone,” though Warsham’s tenure at The Restaurant at Meadowood has gifted him with an understanding of customer service that outperforms other ‘fast-casual’ concepts, it is while waiting in line that the smell of Paprika and Garlic permeates the sinuses, an average transaction taking but a minute and Food coming out of the kitchen at a breakneck pace.
Charging just $8 for a fully dressed Sandwich, the Breast delicately spiced with Berbere and breaded with a Gluten-free mix of Masa, Potato Starch and Rice Flour, it is completing the picture with Apple and Cabbage Slaw that each bite offers something a little different, the Bun standing up well despite a lot going on and the each flavor working well without overwhelming the others.
Passing on Curly Fries and Beer, their combination with a Sandwich dubbed “The Happier Meal,” it was instead a $1 Biscuit plus three fifty-cent Fritters that completed lunch for under $12, the former a bit small but plenty buttery while deep-fried Apple bites were moist yet light and intense with Cinnamon that finds its foil in Maple Frosting.
Having emigrated from Marrakesh with no formal culinary training the story of Mourad Lahlou’s ascent to a Michelin starred eatery is a tale off perseverance, failure in San Rafael yielding Aziza in 2001 and outside investors helping the Chef open his eponymous Financial District Restaurant in early 2015.
Located steps from the Museum of Modern Art and itself aesthetically marvelous, the hemisected root system on entry flanked by flowers, wood and stone, it is with greetings from modestly dressed women that diners are led to tables around a corner, the bar area naturally secluded by Mourad’s L-shape with kitchen located behind suspended lengths of chain in back.
Familiar with Chef Lahlou’s cooking from 2013, the modern location and progression of time escalating both price and presentation, it was seated at room’s center that a middle-age man arrived with menus and pleasantries, his demeanor a bit stiff but perhaps what is to be expected from a space often paid by the expense accounts of diners clad in suits.
Slightly truncated from dinner offerings, though still featuring all the Signatures and certainly not just Soup, Salads and Sandwiches, it is from twenty items ranging Snacks through Entrees that diners are invited to choose, a $40 half Chicken oddly arriving first alongside fragrant Couscous that helped to mellow Marash Pepper tucked beneath crispy Skin enhanced by the Juices of caramelized Onions and warm Olives.
Soulful yet assertive, Lahlou’s Moroccan heritage finding an amiable partner in California Produce and modern technique, it was lightly applying a trio of Sauces that Chicken quickly vanished only to be replaced by Soup and Basteeya, the latter fondly reminiscent of that at Aziza but here featuring better design and Blood Oranges instead of Raisins while pureed Potatoes and plenty of Buttermilk were enlivened by flavors sweet, smoky and earthy.
Transitioning from savory to sweet with Coffee, $8 plus tax and tip for a Double Espresso egregious even for San Francisco, it is from the mind of Pastry Chef Katherine Campecino that Desserts are created light and seasonal, a combination of Honey, Almond and Orange Blossom eating like Granita with shards of Sugar while toasted Meringue atop Blood Orange and Grapefruit was a bit too sour even with the addition of Coconut and Herbs.
Founded by Julie Vandersmeech and Arnaud Goethals in 2015, the Howard Street location soon spawning an outpost at the Ferry Building and recently Noe Valley, it was shortly after 9:00am on a Tuesday that Vive La Tarte was found bustling, the sizable workspace filled by folks on their laptops or meeting over Coffee while a team of at least eight worked diligently throughout the immense kitchen.
Belgian-inspired but infused with fun, artisan touches such as milling Flour on-site balanced by items such as the Instagram-friendly “Tacro,” it is at a distance that guests can see staff focused on tasks including rolling, folding and piping, the fact that each location offers something different each month virtually guaranteeing a following that will soon spread to Los Angeles.
Clever enough to lure in both “influencers” and traditionalists, no small task in a city with outlandish real-estate and lots of competition, it is moving left to right that guests will find items both sweet and savory, a total of one dozen choices far from the shotgun approach seen elsewhere while additional items are made-to-order.
Opting for a mix of traditional and modern, the five items selected tallying just under $30 after tax and tip, it was on bad footing that the experience commenced, the Almond Croissant frankly inedible thanks to what seemed like Frangipane with even more Sugar than usual while the follow-up thankfully fared far better thanks to thick Banana Pudding that somehow left most of the Viennoiserie still crunchy and awash with Ginger.
Told not to miss the Monkey Bread by a trusted source, Vive La Tarte’s choice to use individually laminated cubes bound by Butter yielding a texturally splendid specimen beneath granulated Sugar and bright with Turmeric, it was next Bombolini piped with Butter Cookies and Cream performed beautifully before finishing with an intense slice of Belgian Chocolate Cake flecked by Sea Salt.
