Debuted in early 2021 Milpa took over the former Elia space at 4226 South Durango Drive, Chef DJ Flores’ contemporary Mexican Cuisine quickly outpacing the rest of Las Vegas while a second concept called Birria Dona Maria operated under the same roof has quietly built its own brand.
Part Molino and also a sit-down Café, with stone-ground housemade Tortillas a point of pride, Birria DM and Milpa’s focus is a healthier sort of Mexican Fare built largely from local Ingredients, and although not everyone will appreciate that difference the ones that do will be rewarded by every bite.
Ordered for take-out on Tuesday, Flores’ personally overseeing preparation and happy to chat about his Jalisco-style Beef, it was not long before friends piled their plates with everything from fragrant Rice to Garlic Beans and fresh Greens.
Well-priced for the quality, roughly $15 per person providing more than enough of everything to go around, Guacamole, Chips and Salsa are all praiseworthy and made fresh daily while Birria resting in Consomme has great depth whether eaten with or without melted Cheese.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, Milpa and Birria DM achieve the rare trifecta of healthy, affordable and delicious, all while utilizing time honored techniques plus largely local Ingredients to produce Mexican Cuisine that outpaces places deemed “Fine Dining” on The Strip.
RECOMMENDED: All of it.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Follow @birria_dm on Social Media for daily specials, pop-ups and business hours.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
From the day CRAFTkitchen opened it raised the bar for breakfast Valley-wide, and on Monday for the first time in nearly four months Jaret and Tami’s little place in Henderson again dazzled with quality and creativity plus service that attests to well-trained employees working with a sense of pride.
Old enough to be a mainstay, the Blinn’s investment of money, time and talent paying off thanks to their commitment to quality and community, it was arriving at 11:00am that four guests were seated on the Restaurant’s left half, several familiar servers moving quickly but purposefully for a packed-house.
Still as bright and tidy as day one, living walls and art from the Blinn’s daughter flanking the Coffee Bar and Pastry cases full of delights, it was shortly after seating that beverages were served, brewed to order Coffee bold and balanced while Lattes found added depth in Milk with a tiny Biscotti at their side.
Surrounded by folks of all ages, a “35-40 minute wait” avoided by calling ahead, it was with five of the aforementioned Baked Goods that dining got started, the Kitchen Sink Cookie crumbly but moist despite a lack of Gluten or Animal Products while Jaret’s Cinnamon Roll remains one of the city’s very best.
Continuing with Kouign Amann, pockets of melted Butter visible amidst flaky layers, one would be hard-pressed to decide which was tops among Strawberry or Ham & Cheese, the best bet a side-by-side tasting – but only if that still allows enough stomach space for Scones, Croissants and weekend-only Monkey Bread.
Equally indecisive regarding Pancakes, Strawberries and Cream eventually earning the table’s vote, Chilaquiles hold up well thanks to thick Tortilla Chips amidst Beans and Eggs while the weekend’s #everchangingbrunch earned high marks for a Sopes Benedict featuring Chorizo and Cornbread.
Adding Fries from the “regular” menu, though calling CRAFTkitchen’s Sweet Potatoes with Maple Bacon Aioli anything but exceptional is a mistake, don’t forget Creme Brûlée Stuffed French Toast or Churro Waffles that have only gotten better and better with time.
FIVE STARS: Undeniably a fan, the entire Valley remains fortunate to have CRAFTkitchen where Tami, Jaret and their staff continue to deliver on a motto of “Food with personality delivered by people with passion” each and every day, but even better with the #everchangingbrunch on weekends.
Rebranded from BLVD & Main, 40 years serving Las Vegas making PT’s one of Las Vegas’ most recognizable brands, it was kicking off the 2022 College Football season that five guests sat down to watch Notre Dame versus The Ohio State Buckeyes with Food and Beverage from Chef Luis.
Built as a Beer Hall and Sports Bar, at least 200 seats directly adjacent The STRAT Sportsbook providing built-in foot traffic, it was upon entry that smiling hostess’ led guests to seats, servers efficient across the first half though refills waned after a shift change.
Showing a multitude of NCAA Football match-ups across several big screens, the image quality suggesting no expense spared, it was after brief perusal of the menu that current items mixed with those upcoming, Surf n’ Turf Sliders highlighted by Fried Shrimp and Medium-Rare Tri-Tip while “Buffalo Fins” took PT’s classic Wings in a new direction by wrapping Bacon ‘round Crustacean.
Next taking a look at Korean style Corndogs, fun but perhaps better served with Ketchup and Mustard on the side, PT’s Crispy Fish Tacos execute on par with others while upcoming Quesabirria wows thanks to slow-cooked Beef and melty Cheese on a Pita to sop up all the Juices.
Not forgetting Pizza PT’s Crust sets a high standard for such a venue thanks to crispy pliability, the blend of Beef, Mushroom and Onions predictably good while “Classic Nachos” come piled high with two types of Cheese, Pico, Peppers, Steak and boozy Beans.
Wrapping with two Desserts, plus a gift from ToTW’s Chad Castanino, both items look far better than the average Bar’s offerings with Sticky Toffee Pudding outpacing Dark Chocolate largely due to the Bourbon & Brown Butter Ice Cream.
FOUR STARS: Built as a Beer Hall and Sports Bar, and now acting as such under Golden Entertainment’s most famous brand, PT’s Wings & Sports offers excellent Bar Food at a fair value with plenty of seats and screens.
AVOID: N/A, though many items listed are upcoming concepts which may not be available.
TIP: Monday 4pm-10pm, Tuesday & Wednesday Closed, Thursday 4pm-10pm, Friday 11am-12am, Saturday 9am-12am, Sunday 9am-10pm. This is also the only kid-friendly PT’s.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Young Coconut Pie – Young Coconut Meat, Custard, Coconut Streusel, Butter Crust
Ube Coconut Cream Pie – Coconut Cream Filling, Ube Jam, Butter Crust, Whipped Cream, Toasted Almonds, White Chocolate
Calamansi Cheesecake – Calamansi Curd, Calamansi Crumbs, Graham Cracker Crust
Calamansi Pie – Calamansi Custard, Meringue, Butter Crust
Named after a popular crop in the Philippines, and a favorite snack of Chef Ramir Bolanos DeCastro, Purple Potato unfortunately shut its doors in the middle of 2019, the closure after just 21 months largely a result of location rather than Food as the healthy Bowls and quick-casual Sandwiches were almost universally well-received.
Now three years older and wiser, COVID-19 having entirely reshaped an Off-Strip dining scene that Chef Ramir helped to initiate with Yonaka in early 2013, Purple Potato marches on as a bakery at 6370 W Flamingo Rd #20 featuring donuts, cookies, Ube-based treats and Filipino Pastries.
Previously offered for delivery or takeout only, but now brick and mortar with pre-orders available online, it was Friday that seventeen items were procured for tasting, Savories including Beef Caldereta in Puff Pastry rich and hearty while Hand Pies include Barbecue Chicken or Nutella-Turon with Bananas and Jackfruit.
Scaling back “Monster Cookies” to approximately 4”, Calamansi Funfetti featuring a crisp rim and soft center, heterogeneity throughout and taste not dissimilar to Key Lime Pie, Banana Bread is an unexpected highlight thanks to a moist crumb and the complex interplay of Walnuts with Chocolate Chips.
Never actually gone from the local food scene, the rebranding of Yonaka and Purple Potato followed by a consulting gig at McCarran, Chef DeCastro’s current lineup continues with Donuts, this day featuring a dozen varieties offering a delicate crumb and fillings ranging from Flan or Strawberry to Chocolate.
Unafraid to be creative, a Coco Pandan Donut with Sesame Seeds almost more savory than sweet, it was after indulging in Salted Yema and Calamansi that “Layered Donuts” were tasted including more American ideas such as S’mores or Oreo Cookies.
Not forgetting Pie, or Cheesecake that adds bright Citrus notes to velvety Cream Cheese atop a robust Graham Cracker Crust, fans of Coconut will be torn between lavish Young Coconut or lighter Ube Coconut Cream while those who favor Lemon Meringue will find something better in Purple Potato’s Calamansi Pie.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Unlikely to be stumbled upon inside Phoenix Plaza the success of Purple Potato Bakery will depend largely on word of mouth, and based on this first visit plus prior experience it is safe to say Chef Ramir Bolanos DeCastro’s Desserts are better than ever with no lack of creativity.
Replacing a former Mediterranean tenant inside Suite B1 of 3220 South Durango Drive just prior to the pandemic The Legends Oyster Bar and Grill has slowly earned a reputation for some of the best Seafood off-Strip, Chef Jack Jarukasem’s years overseeing Rio’s Buffet clearly showing in an ability to execute multiple dishes quick and efficiently without sacrificing quality.
A native of Thailand who started young, time in Grandma’s kitchen and life on a farm sparking an interest that would continue at his mother’s Restaurant in America by age 11, it was from food runner to master cook and finally Executive Chef that “Chef Jack” progressed through the ranks at Caesars Entertainment thanks to a strong work ethic and attention to technique.
Taking on raw and cooked Shellfish amidst casual environs, a homey interior channeling New England well-matched to Oysters freshly shucked, fried or baked beneath classic Rockefeller accouterments, suffice it to say one won’t find better Clam Chowder anywhere in Sin City and the Sherry-kissed Lobster Bisque available in porcelain or a Bread Bowl isn’t too shabby either.
Smart to offer Pan Roast, saving locals the long lines of Palace Station at lower cost, Jambalaya fares well with all the right ingredients while Beef Stroganoff is a delightful surprise that seems out of place but outperforms many thanks to tender Beef Tips, Roasted Mushrooms and Dill Cream Sauce.
Not forgetting Fries, golden-crisp adjacent fried Fish but much better beneath melted Cheese waiting to be dunked in Chowder, Garlic Mac n’ Cheese is a highly shareable side for just $9 while Desserts at $7 a piece see Chocolate Cake and Tiramisu outpace somewhat mushy Cheesecake.
FOUR STARS: Not necessarily a destination, but well priced considering Ingredients and portions, The Legends Oyster Bar and Grill executes well with good service and the sort of comfortable environs that will keep guests coming back.
RECOMMENDED: Oysters Rockefeller, New England Clam Chowder, Beef Stroganoff, Jambalaya, Chocolate Cake.
AVOID: The Fish half of Fish n Chips Chips was flavorless and greasy, Cheesecake was falling and mushy.
TIP: Everything ordered will be delivered simultaneously unless otherwise specified.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Lasagna Al Forno – Handmade Pasta, Bolognese, Herbed Ricotta
Sweet Corn Agnolotti – Brown Butter, Parmesan, Chive
Casarecce – Black Kale Pesto, Shiitake, Mushroom, Almonds
Limoncello
Italian Rainbow Cake – Chocolate Buttercream, Toasted Almonds
Apple Crostata – Brown Butter Crumble, Vanilla Gelato
Chocolate Cheesecake – Amarena Cherries, Amaretto Hot Fudge
Established in Summerlin as the pandemic wained, and already “the Usual Place” for residents of Las Vegas’ affluent suburb, dinner on Monday found Al Solito Posto near-capacity for a taste of Chef James Trees and team’s East Coast Italian Food.
A replacement for Brio Italian Grill at Tivoli Village, approximately 180 indoor seats filled plus several on the patio, it was after greetings at the hostess’ stand that ten guests were led to a table beneath locally made craftwork, service from General Manager Carlo Cannuscio’s front of house attentive and friendly without the theatrics of Carbone.
Boisterous but not exactly loud in the lounge it was after deciding on Beverages that Carte Blanche was deferred to the kitchen, complimentary housemade Focaccia plus Garlic Herb Olive Oil mixed tableside soon to arrive and consumed nearly as quickly.
Happy to see Chef Adam Rios at the pass Appetizers consist of Soups, Salads and Antipasti, the Meatballs tight but not overworked adjacent a triangle of Cornmeal while the Fried Squash Blossoms and Caprese Salad each put Cheese to good use coming across extra creamy with an herbaceous finish.
Utilizing fresh Ingredients across the board, prices ranging $12-$23 for Starters and $19-$68 for Entrees a veritable bargain despite outpacing most of Las Vegas Boulevard, an additional starter saw Al Solito Posto former Happy-Hour-only Pizzetta shine ahead of textbook Chicken Marsala.
Able to handle big volume thanks to skilled cooks and a sizable kitchen course two also featured Las Vegas’ best Lasagna adjacent delicate Sweet Corn Agnolotti, housemade Casarecce also impressive thanks to bitter Pesto and Mushrooms while reference-standard Veal Parm compares favorably to Carbone or nearby Osteria Fiorella.
Contracting the Dessert menu slightly, Bomboloni and Budino and Cheesecake now Chocolate, those seeking a showstopper remain encouraged to choose between Italian Rainbow Cake that is more like Birthday Cake than the Italian Tricolor “Cookie” or an Apple Crostata that is texturally masterful, the size of a whole Pie and served piping hot with a side of Vanilla Gelato waiting to be melted on top.
FIVE STARS: Over a year since opening Al Solito Posto is firing on all cylinders, plates ranging from light to hearty each well-executed while the service team led by Carlo Cannuscio provides for a memorable night of Food and Beverage in Summerlin.
RECOMMENDED: Fried Squash Blossoms, Lasagna Al Forno, Veal Parmigiana, Sweet Corn Agnolotti, Apple Crostata.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Brunch and Lunch now offered, see the website for details.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Located just off the 405 in Inglewood is Randy’s Donuts, this year celebrating its 70th year slinging fried Dough under an iconic 32-foot sign 24/7, and now growing the name globally with 20+ locations stretching to South Korea and Dubai – or in this case Sin City.
Unimpressive in 2015 at the Original, though new outposts trend cleaner without the cash-only policy, Randy’s on South Rainbow Boulevard opened in August 2022, recipes reportedly unchanged since day one though premium toppings and savory items have been added.
Busy at 10:00am on a Monday, though a full selection was available, it was in exchange for $25.45 that a “Mixed Dozen” Donuts were received, the Apple Fritter far better than those at Randy’s flagship thanks to crackling Glaze over a soft center while the laminated “Crondy” failed to rival Pink Box or Coco.
Recalling Cake Donuts greasy, Randy’s Red Velvet and regular with Cherry Icing actually performing well, Maple Frosting featured abundantly, its taste artificial but pleasant with or without Bacon while Matcha may as well have been Pistachio or any nondescript Nut flavor.
Doing justice to classic Chocolate, though the Buttermilk Bar would have been equally good or better simply glazed, Randy’s Bear Claw was something of a hidden gem thanks to good rise and plenty of filling that trends less sweet than many thanks to an abundance of Cinnamon.
THREE STARS: Well-priced in the current market California-brand Randy’s lures guests in with history and executes on par with other mom n’ pop shops but not on par with Las Vegas’ best purveyors of fried Dough.
RECOMMENDED: Bear Claw, Apple Fritter, Buttermilk Bar.
AVOID: Matcha Tea Raised.
TIP: Three more Las Vegas locations coming soon.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Bourbon Fudge Brownie – Brown Butter Bacon Ice Cream
Fortunate to have tasted every new plate at Carson Kitchen since summer of 2015, Chefs Harwell, Simon and team forever rethinking even longtime best-sellers, it was with greetings from GM Ethan Asch that six diners were seated at a familiar table, Saturday at 12:00pm for a second look at Summer 2022’s menu.
Still DTLV’s best Restaurant since its inception, a team of talented servers providing faultless service while music plays overhead, it was alongside Cocktails that dining began shortly, Choose Joy smooth yet poignant in a manner well suited to iconic Chicken Skins, bubbling Bacon Jam and fried Crawfish Tacos topped in piquant Ham Slaw.
Continuing with more Skins, equally enjoyable today as in 2014, Tempura Green Beans remain similarly crave-worthy thanks to crisp coating ready to support Pepper Jelly while Beet Tartare continues to wow even those who “don’t like Beets” thanks to complex flavors and textures.
The Bee’s Knees poured next, a personal favorite whose herbs and sweetness benefit Summer-favorite Watermelon & Feta, Harwell’s “secret” Mac & Cheese remains popular for a reason, as does Oxtail Risotto rife with Parmesan balanced by Gremolata.
Not forgetting Hotdog Burnt Ends, fun and faultless beneath sticky BBQ Glaze, Flatbreads see this season’s Mushrooms also tossed in BBQ while the “BLT” is rethought via Wasabi and Arugula before delving into Pork Meatloaf topped in Molasses plus Crispy Onions.
Ordering Salmon on request, a good piece of Fish cooked properly, first timers also got a chance to experience Carson Kitchen’s “Secret Sunday Chicken” before a “two of each” Dessert order featuring Las Vegas’ best Brownie and Donut Bread Pudding plus a Berry Posset that is perfect for warmer weather thanks to Greek Yogurt and Blueberries.
FIVE STARS: Ground-breaking since opening Carson Kitchen’s excellence has seemingly become so expected that locals are prone to overlook it, but with the current menu as innovative as ever Cory Harwell, Scott Simon, David English, Rachel Tate and Ethan Asch continue to run Downtown Las Vegas’ most important Restaurant.
TIP: Full Menu 11:30 to 10pm Mon-Thu and till 11pm Friday as well as Saturday. Brunch is offered 11:00am until 4:00pm on Sundays, with the whole menu also available then and up to closing.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Red Velvet Cupcake – Red Velvet Cookie, Vanilla Cream Cheese Frosting, Red Velvet Pieces
Debuted in Logan, Utah, Crumbl took the city by storm, their Instagramable Cookies offered in thirty stores across six states by 2019 and now easily 100+ with six in Las Vegas including the Maryland Parkway location opened in November 2019.
The brainchild of Sawyer Hemsley and Jason McGowan, rapid expansion through franchising yielding mixed results from store to store as evidence by Social Media, it was after a few improving experiences that the UNLV storefront proved competent with the staff exceedingly pleasant whilst describing each $3 round.
Undoubtedly popular in part due to photogenicity, though a sterile interior oversells the fact that everything is made from scratch, the first thing those entering will notice is Crumbl’s limited collection of weekly flavors, four or five specials alongside Sugar slathered in seasonal Icing plus Chocolate Chip that uses all Milk Chocolate and trends far too sweet.
Still a young company, so much success despite only starting in September 2017 certainly enviable, best bites came from weekly specials that included Strawberry Shortcake plus Cinnamon Frybread bolstered by a good amount of Buttercream.
Offered onsite or via delivery from 8am until at least 10pm Monday through Saturday it was next that Red Velvet fared as anticipated while Oreo Mallow Sandwich was decidedly rich and more Whoopie Pie than Sandwich Cookie.
THREE STARS: With Cookies currently seeing a surge in popularity Utah-brand Crumbl lures guests in by rotating flavors weekly, this collection successful with a few flavors but otherwise a mixed bag that still sees the consistency too “cakey” most of the time.
Located in Spring Mountain Center, across Jones Boulevard from EDO, SeaFresh and China Mama, Noodlehead has quietly been earning a reputation thanks to handmade Noodles and Asian small plates offered at bargain prices with exemplary customer service.
Part of Sin City since November 2021, nearby 168 Market driving foot traffic to a concise Restaurant longer than wide, it is from a Husband and Wife team that guests are welcomed from 11:00am until 9:00pm daily whether for take-out or dining in.
Formerly Chef Chings, a little paint and redecorating providing turnkey access to attentive owners, it was as a party of eleven that a dozen dishes were tasted, Scallion Pancakes on par with others around the Valley while fried Tofu with Peanuts and Satay Sauce offer bold contrast in terms of both taste and texture.
Adding three more Appetizers, a lightly-dressed Black Fungus and Cucumber Salad earning high marks, Chinese Beef Rolls come densely packed with Meat but no grease while Mung Bean Jelly Noodles with Chili Sauce served room-temperature are an absolute must-order.
Offered at a range of spice-levels, Malaysian Curry using Coconut Milk to keep Chilies in check, Dan Dan Noodles come tingly but not fiery in a huge bowl for just $10.95 while similarly priced Yibin Burning Noodle are a worthy “signature” from the Chef’s home town that adds Pickled Vegetables and Peanuts to the mix.
Capable of satisfying timid palates with Vegetable Chow Mein featuring fresh and chewy handmade noodles, not to mention Chicken and Mushroom Noodles that outpace most Grandma’s “secret recipes” for Chicken Soup, fans of heat will want to order Ground Beef and Pepper Noodles topped in Thai Chilies while guests who like Pho will discover Noodlehead’s Beef Brisket Noodles full of depth but not sodium with a satiny mouthfeel.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Open for lunch and dinner daily Noodlehead offers exceptional handmade Noodles, bright flavors, bargain prices and impressive service across a diverse menu from which almost anyone can find something to suit their taste buds.
RECOMMENDED: Crispy Satay Tofu, Mung Bean Jelly Noodles with Chili Sauce, Dan Dan Noodles, Beef Brisket Noodles, Chicken and Mushroom Noodles, Yibin Burning Noodles.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Online ordering available by many of the usual suspects.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Malai Kabob – Cream, Yogurt, Black Pepper, Coriander, Ginger, Garlic
Although Mint Indian Bistro has been serving Spring Valley since December 2016 it wasn’t until a recent merger with India Oven Masala Bar Grill that the decision was made to revisit the Restaurant at Dinner, Ulzan Mehta’s joining with Kris and Bindi Parikh somewhat bittersweet as Las Vegas lost one of its best Indian Eateries and some of Mr. Mehta’s wonderful recipes in the process.
Still something of a secret, traditional music playing overhead and patrons largely Indian plus a smattering of other cultures, it was with bottles of Water placed on tables that guests were encouraged to explore Mint’s offerings that would soon be served by tray-carrying robots.
Sticking largely to old favorites, Naan and Paratha both commendable, Dinner began with Samosas fried Golden plus a pair of Chutneys from which Tamarind proved the favorite.
Unable to settle on just one Curry or Stew, indecision or a desire to taste a bit of everything one of the best reasons to visit Mint’s 11:00am to 3:00pm daily Buffet, it was on request that three different selections arrived in addition to Malai Kabob, Mint’s signature Mango Masala walking a fine line between sweet and savory with pronounced creaminess while Chetinad Curry and Karma Korma were less memorable while at the same time more expensive than elsewhere.
THREE STARS: More expensive than recently-opened Clove and reliant on robot service Mint remains a decent choice for Indian Cuisine provided one sticks to signatures and doesn’t mind paying a little extra.
RECOMMENDED: Potato and Pea Paratha, Cauliflower Mahakali Mango Masala, Malai Kabob.
AVOID: Vegetable Karma Korma eats far too mushy.
TIP: Mint offers easy catering, banquet space and even meal prep services. Look online, call 702-247-4610 or e-mail info@mintbistro.com to inquire.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Last visited four years prior Cake World Bakery continues doing good business in DTLV, the Panaderia at 220 North Maryland Parkway flying well below Las Vegas’ PR-driven radar despite being located at that same address for over two decades.
Not to be mistaken with the similarly named Cake World on North Tenaya Way, the focus of both spaces on Mexican Pan Dulce and custom-orders but entirely unrelated, Cake World Bakery is owned and operated by Juan Castenada who immigrated from Guanajuato in 1959, the son of a baker eventually picking up the family trade after a couple of career changes and never looking back after opening the single-story blue shop in 2002.
Certainly not a part of town frequented by tourists or even middle-class locals, though the slow gentrification of East Fremont including the likes of nearby PublicUS has created a cultural shift that makes the small Bakery’s barred windows seem a bit overly-cautious, guests entering Cake World Bakery will immediately find themselves greeted by either Juan or one of his family members, a pair of racks decked out in Pastries separating seating from the kitchen while chillers reside to the right full of Cakes and Beverages.
More English-fluent than other Panaderia in town, both in person and over the phone, it was after several minutes indecision that an order was arranged in addition to a Tres Leches Birthday Cake sporting a picture of the guest of honor.
Inexpensive as those familiar with such places might anticipate, a dozen Pan Dulce and the stacked Sponge Cake topped with Cream, Custard, and Condensed Milk tallying just $35, it was home that items were cut and tasted, the Concha-like Bread flavored by Sugar and Chestnuts starting things off and better than any other found thus far in Las Vegas while Pig-shaped Gingerbread was soft and spongy.
Moving next to Ojos de Buey, Besos by any other name always a favorite, those seeking something with a bit more crunch would do well to opt for one of Cake World Bakery’s Elephant Ears covered with caramelized Sugar or the Cream Cheese Empanada that tiptoes the line between sweet and savory.
Saving the Cake for last fans will be happy to know that Chef Castenada’s many years in the business have yielded a textbook recipe that arrives soaking-wet while maintaining textural complexity thanks to smooth Custard between layers of Cake and the addition of chopped Strawberries.
FOUR STARS: Not quite as well stocked as Las Vegas’ other Panaderia, though quality certainly makes up for quantity in most cases, Cake World Bakery is an underregarded gem ”hidden” in plain sight to everyone but their longtime customers and a place more non-Hispanics would do well to discover based on the combination of value and taste.
RECOMMENDED: Tres Leches, Ombligo, Besos, Oreja, Queso Empanada.
AVOID: The Cochito tastes more like Rye with a bit of sweetness than the traditional Gingerbread most are familiar with.
TIP: 7a-7p Monday through Saturday and 7a-5p Sunday, call (702) 471-7111 or visit the store for custom orders.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Chilaquiles – Salsa Verde, Sunny Side Up Eggs, Cotija Cheese, Crema
Ho-Ho Cake
Vanilla Apricot Cake
Opened in November of 2021 by Joel Robuchon alumnus Elia Aboumrad-Page Boom Bang Fine Foods & Cocktails has been heralded by respected Chefs and the expected media outlets since the beginning, the location in a shopping complex on Valle Verde Drive in Henderson making the Restaurant a schlep for most but certainly not dissuading a crowd for Brunch on the weekend.
Joined by Christian Page and Tony Angotti, both industry veterans known from stints in Los Angeles and Sin City, Boom Bang Fine Foods & Cocktails describes its style as “chef-driven New American & French” though the menu ranges from Mexican to Israeli during the day with even greater diversity in the evening.
Blending desert-landscapes with retro-Vegas imagery inside, a case full of Cakes and freshly-baked Pastries greeting guests ahead of the hostess stand, it was as a party of eight that thirteen items were sampled, a Pastry tray highlighted by the Boom Bang Coffee Roll drizzled in fragrant Icing plus Bostock as good one will find outside of France.
Accessibly priced save for $9 Hash Browns that might command 1/3 as much at a greasy spoon, the $7 Fries a far better bargain for those craving Potatoes, Eggs per Elia channel Shakshuka with added spice from Chipotle and Chorizo while a small Dutch Pancake also comes in cast-iron but seems a little thick across the bottom.
Ingredient-focused for Meats and Produce, Lox served with an “Everything Hoagie” satin-smooth, Chilaquiles perform well as Chips hold up to Eggs, Cream and Salsa while the Truffled Scrambled Egg Tart combines shattering Puff Pastry with fluffy indulgence.
Less refined for the Boom Bang “Monte Cristo,” a deep fried Breakfast Sandwich that remains defiantly ungreasy around Ham, Cheddar and Eggs whether eaten plain or with Apricot Jam and Maple Syrup, Desserts come plated by the kitchen or cut in large wedges with the better of Ho-Ho Cake versus Vanilla Apricot Cake a toss-up depending on ones’ love of Chocolate.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Located on Valle Verde Drive in Henderson Boom Bang Fine Foods & Cocktails is a brunch worth driving for. Not the sort of place one finds by accident Chef Elia Aboumrad-Page’s cuisine is hearty but refined and covers a wide swath of styles with skill.
RECOMMENDED: Boom Bang Coffee Roll, Bostock, Eggs per Elia, Truffled Scrambled Egg Tart, Boom Bang “Monte Cristo.”
Vegan Dark Chocolate Natilla – Olive Oil, Sea Salt
Located in the Southwest Marketplace, off Rainbow Boulevard, Valencian Gold reopened in mid-August 2021, the former “Spanish fast-casual” spot now a more complete concept focused on Tapas, Paella and Cocktails with great customer service.
Owned and operated by Chef Jeffrey Weiss it was with business in mind that three guests sat down just prior to 6:00pm, tables arranged amidst pounded tin, tile, murals of Salvador Dali and a beautiful open kitchen with live fire toward the back.
Benefitted by extensive training, Chef Weiss previously awarded an Institute of Culinary Education scholarship to train overseas before authoring “Soul of Spain,” it was after a boozy Slushie were poured that a parade of plates commenced while hip-hop played overhead.
“Paella for the People” glowing in neon, and Gil Hayon leading a front of house still-outpacing other Off-Strip Restaurants around for years, Charcuterie and housemade Bread arrived first alongside Truffled Honey Cheese Balls, first-timers quick to praise all three as well as two seasonal Salads.
Next serving traditional Patatas Bravas, no frills but as good as one might find in Barcelona, Chef Weiss’ Wagyu Chuleton arrives large with developed flavors and perfect temperature with bites separated by Sherry Mushrooms and signature “Day Off Peppers.”
Seamlessly shifting from classic to modern, much like the Food offered in Tapas Bars throughout Spain, Potatoes Rosti come complete with Truffles and Cheese while the “Super Mario” Paella achieves the rare feat of pleasing both carnivores and vegans thanks to plenty of properly prepared Mushrooms.
At this point seeing most guests stuffed Dessert could easily comprise nothing but imported Cheeses, but that would certainly be ill-advised considering Valencian Gold’s feather-light Bizcocho and world-class Basque Cheesecake, plus Flan, Natilla and seasonal Strawberry Shortcake that is inauthentic but glorious thanks to Buttermilk, Harry’s Berries and Goats Milk Crema.
FIVE STARS: On Thursday Valencian Gold put on a show comparable to any traditional Restaurant in Bilbao, San Sebastian, Valencia, Barcelona or Madrid. During the meal one guest asked “so, how did you get into food?” and although that story is too lengthy for today it is meals like this one that keep me interested both local and afar.
RECOMMENDED: Bombas de Queso, Pan de Aceite, !yo soy tomato!, Patatas Bravas, 1kg Wagyu Chuleton, Super Mario Paella, Basque Cheesecake, Warm Chocolate Bizcocho, Strawberry Shortcake.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Valencian Gold is currently taking a seasonal break through the end of 2022.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Snow Beef, Olive Beef, 60 day Butter-aged A5 Satsuma-Gyu, 30 day Dry-aged Icon Australian Wagyu, 40 day Dry-aged Creekstone Farms Prime Tomahawk Rib Steak
Hot Seafood Tower – Maine Lobster, King Crab Legs, Oishii Shrimp, Oysters, Dark Rum, 151
Rainbow Tiradito – Bluefin Tuna, Faroe Islands Salmon, Japanese Hamachi, Jackfruit Leche de Tigre, Pickled Green Papaya, Taro Chips
Steak Tartare – Prime Beef, Quail Egg, Black Garlic Aioli, Shaved Foie Gras, Gaufrette Potatoes
Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras – Pickled Plums, Pain Perdue, Port and Plum Jus
Already visited twice since reopening after the pandemic and under new ownership there is little doubt that The Palms is seeking to regain its title as Las Vegas’ best Off-Strip resort, a goal with good chances in terms of dining thanks to Chef Marty Lopez, Tammy Alala and General Manager Jorge Pagani at Scotch 80 Prime.
Debuted late-Spring of 2018, stalwart N9NE Steakhouse making way for a room decorated in Basquiat and Haring, guests visiting Scotch 80 today will find much of the original aesthetic maintained minus paintings kept by past owners, the Bar still well-stocked with rare Whiskeys and service predictably impeccable.
Located at the resort’s east end with an entirely revamped menu, seasonal changes already underway along with an upcoming Tasting Menu and Wagyu Samplers including A5 varieties straight from Japan, it was deferring Carte Blanche to the kitchen that Dinner began with a “Steak and Potatoes” Amuse followed by flaming Shellfish and Marty’s Rainbow Tiradito.
Not forgetting delicate Milk Bread or crispy Shrimp served with their Heads, nor hand-cut Steak Tartare made extra smooth by a Quail Egg and melting Duck Liver, the nightly Foie Gras special featured a good sear and pickled Plums in the style of Anne-Sophie Pic atop toasted Bread.
Getting creative with Bone Marrow by adding Beef Cheek and Popcorn Chef Lopez’s Miso-glazed Sea Bass remains indelible thanks to not only delicate flesh in Dashi but lightly sweetened Fish Eggs and dueling Mushroom textures.
Cleansing the palate with Sorbet it is safe to say Steaks and Sides at Scotch 80 Prime are amongst Las Vegas’ top-3, a 40-day Dry Aged Creekstone Farms Tomahawk hulking alongside Aussi Wagyu and 60 day Butter-aged A5 Satsuma-Gyu from Japan while the “best” side dish is a toss-up between Mushrooms beneath Foie Gras Foam, Truffled “Millionaire’s Maccheroni” or the Famous Hash Browns.
Torn between saving room for Dessert or sampling all seven Sauces on additional bites of Steak the decision to do both proved fortuitous, Marty’s Bordelaise made the right way as good as anything one might find in Paris before delving into Pastry Chef Tammy Alana’s delicate Lemon Lime Pavlova and Butterscotch Crème Brulee.
Getting fancy for the #gram with Fireball S’mores, flaming Liquor poured tableside revealing Warm Chocolate Cake, Tammy’s Basque Cheesecake carefully balances bitter and salty with Berries while a dish unveiled in a swirl of smoke finds five types of Chocolate varying in taste, texture, intensity and temperature.
FIVE STARS: Ever since Carnevino closed its doors the desire to visit any Steakhouse but Jean Georges at Aria has been minimal, but with Chefs Marty and Tammy now in charge Scotch 80 may just be the best of its kind. Under the direction of Chef Marcus O’Brien with Jorge Pagani leading the front of house the arms race for best sourcing has been declared via certificates from Japan while both sweets and savories are thoughtful, bold and balanced.
RECOMMENDED: Steak Tartare, Foie Gras, Long Bone Marrow, Miso-glazed Chilean Sea Bass, Black Garlic Butter, Red Wine Bone Marrow Bordelaise, Forest Mushrooms, Famous Hash Browns, Millionaire’s Maccheroni, Dry Aged Creekstone Farms Tomahawk, 60 day Butter-aged A5 Satsuma-Gyu, Lemon Lime Pavlova, Butterscotch 80 Crème Brulee.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Japanese Wagyu and Olive Fed Beef priced by the ounce.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Opened shortly before Covid-19 changed the dining landscape in ways never anticipated TON TON Katsuya has established itself as something of a destination in the Southwest, “Restaurant stylist” Martin Koleff and Chef Yutaka Kude seeing lines prior to opening most days and ninety minute waits for those arriving during peak hours.
Occupying the former Paid in Full at the corner of Warm Springs Road and Durango Drive, a space made all the more concise by wooden booths divided by barriers and a sizable open kitchen, it is once inside that guests will find laminated menus propped upright featuring items of varying prices.
Backed by the man behind Raku and Curry Zen with a Chef whose tenure spans from Osaka to Michigan, Hawaii and now Sin City TON TON Katsuya focuses on Tempura fried specialties, the take-out only Pork Loin Sandwich authentic right down to imported Bread plus hot Mustard cut into quarters.
Open for Lunch and Dinner Tuesday through Sunday, the setting decidedly genuine right down to staff fluent in English as well as Japanese, starters include fried Seafood and Vegetables, Kabocha Squash cooked tender with sweetness balanced by chunky pink Sauce while U-10 Scallops arrive nearly-raw at the middle next to Salad and a wedge of Lemon.
Making Katsu Sauce and Sesame Dressing in-house, with guests invited to grind additional seeds as necessary, Black Line Pork comprises TON TON Katsuya’s most pricey option, this time as a side of Meatballs made from off-cuts that eat like delicate orbs bursting with umami.
Ingredient-focused from Kyoei Foods Panko to Suntterra Farm proteins, all of it including Chicken fried in Rice Bran Oil, meal “sets” also include Rice, Salad, Pickles and Miso while Desserts save for Ice Cream and Milk Tea largely hail from nearby Suzuya Patisserie.
FOUR STARS: While the strip banks on another “celebrity chef” opening built to please everyone TON TON Katsuya has got a line before opening to do one thing and do it very well, with care and authenticity for those willing to wait.
RECOMMENDED: Pumpkin Katsu, Black Line Pork Meatball Katsu.
AVOID: Sitting back-to-the-kitchen where staff inexplicably managed to splatter 3 large spots of brown sauce on the back of a white shirt.
TIP: Given TON TON Katsuya’s small size and popularity this is not a place to linger, even though they neither offer nor take reservations.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Savory Scone – Ham, Cheddar Cheese, Green Onion, Bacon Gravy
Carrot Zucchini Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting
Banana Cake with Frosting
Caramel Pecan Cinnamon Roll
Peach Scone
Blueberry Scone
Strawberry Cupcake
Pink Lemonade Cupcake
Bread Pudding with Housemade Whipped Cream
Apple Pie Bomb
Founded in Humboldt County California, there is a good chance Food Network fans first heard about Humboldt Sweets on Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-ins and Dives, but since late-2019 the Bakery owned by Tammy and Tony Pichulo has called Henderson home after re-opening its doors inside Coronado Canyons Center at the corner of Green Valley and Horizon Ridge Parkway.
Family-owned and operated, Tammy responsible for the recipes with daughter Hannah frequently offering a helping hand, Humboldt Sweets currently operates from 8:00am until 3:00pm Friday through Sunday, though early arrival is recommended as more popular items such as Bread Pudding or Fruit and Cream Cheese “Bombs” tend to sell out quickly.
Already baking well before sunrise, better-than-average Ingredients and plus-size portions commanding prices that run a bit higher than other like-concepts, small batches combine with classic technique to yield several-dozen choices that change daily, though the now-famous Cinnamon Roll and Caramel Pecan cousin are universally present and worth every cent/calorie thanks to soft spirals sopping with Butter plus or minus Frosting.
Relocated to the Las Vegas suburb as it is Tony’s hometown and making quick fans of locals with everything from Quiche to Candy, additional treats include rustic Cupcakes topped in hand-made Butercream as well as texturally masterful Scones that are delicious room-temperature but even better after 10-seconds in the microwave.
Not a place to count calories, but well-suited for families or friends looking to share something sweet, consider it fortunate if Savory Scones or Tammy’s Banana Cake are still available after 10:00am, and speaking of Cake, do not pass on what may just be the Valley’s best Carrot version thanks to bold spices and plenty of Walnuts beneath a thin layer of sweet yet tangy Cream Cheese.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Now operating just three days a week, folks in Las Vegas proper will need to make a special effort to visit Humboldt Sweets, though based on these items (and others prior) the time, cost and calories are justified.
The newest concept from Pinkbox Doughnuts founder Roberto Armanino Pizza Nation took over LaBella’s in 2021, the small space at 6530 North Buffalo Drive continuing to turn out Salads, Subs, Pastas and Pies Monday through Saturday for dine-in or take-out.
Powered by Slice with online ordering, the interior but three tables, it was Friday night that delivery arrived right on time at a fair price during Las Vegas’ monsoon season.
Ordered for four adults and two teens, Garlic Knots a bit too tightly wound kicking things off, Fettuccine Alfredo quickly found Pizza Nation’s comfort zone thanks to properly cooked Noodles coated in slick, not-heavy, Cream Sauce.
Onward to Pies, New York Style cut into triangles, Pizza Nation’s crust blisters across the bottom without much of a cornicione and thus folds with a light crackle but enough elasticity to support Cheese, Sauce and Toppings whether classic or non-traditional.
FOUR STARS: Difficult to properly gauge on a delivery order Pizza Nation shows promise, though in such a competitive market an improved website and better Social Media presence to differentiate them from LaBella’s seems prudent.
RECOMMENDED: Pepperoni Pizza, Fettuccine Alfredo.
AVOID: Garlic Knots were overworked.
TIP: Open 11am to 8pm Monday through Thursday, until 9pm Friday and Saturday.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Replacing Lucky Penny with California-inspired “comfort Food with a contemporary twist” Serrano Vista Café is The Palms foray into 24/7 dining, at least Thursday through Monday while the space closes from midnight until 6am on Tuesday and Wednesday.
Located at the resort’s east-most end without much signage it is from the podium that the space spans large with grab n’ go choices at the front including Sandwiches, Salads and Pastries from Chef Tammy Alana.
Decorated in a nondescript style with neon and art, pop music playing overhead from the 80s to now, it is once seated that service proves friendly and clever with the sort of attention to detail many might not expect from this sort of venue.
Offering Breakfast, “All Day” and Late Night menus, Property Chef Marcus O’Brien and Serrano Vista Cafe’s Gonzalo Garzo collaborating on savories while former-Andre’s and Alize sweets specialist Tammy Alana tackles gigantic Cinnamon Rolls served with Chocolate-covered Bacon and a Butterscotch sidecar.
Also offering made-to-order Beignets where “the Golden State meets the Silver State,” and doing it better than NOLA, savories run the gamut from Hummus and Tabbouleh to Beef Brisket Fried Rice that each arrive in generous portions for the price.
Saving Entrees for another time, Sandwiches including “Vegas Hot Chicken” with housemade Hot Sauce and Slaw or the “Pho’rench Dip” that turns Banh Mi into a French Dip both demanding attention, Pancakes come record-size in fluffy stacks of two or three with add-ins available at a fraction of the price compared to MGM properties or Virgin.
Never missing a chance to try Chef Alana’s Desserts, past or present at Scotch 80, Apple Crisp and Snowball Cake shout nostalgia in all the best ways while The Chocolate Cream Tart and Coconut Meringue Pie each outpace many upscale dinner outposts on the Strip in terms of taste and texture.
Showing off Choux with three Cream Puffs, each good but Raspberry particularly compelling, Floats at Serrano Vista Cafe don’t get crazy like the Shakes of Black Tap or Sugar Factory but instead focus on good Ice Cream and Artisan Soda with garnishes for Social Media.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: If there’s one thing Las Vegas does better than anyone else it’s the 24/7 dining concept, and thanks to Marcus O’Brien, Tammy Alana, Gonzalo Garzo and team Serrano Vista Cafe at Palms Casino Resort outperforms most of them. Go for the Cinnamon Roll plus Beignets that are better than Cafe du Mond, stick around for the Pho’ Rench Dip and don’t forget Dessert.
RECOMMENDED: Cinnamon Roll, Beignets, Pho’ Rench Dip, Apple Crisp, Coconut Meringue Pie
AVOID: The Hummus is good, but the “Naan” listed with it was actually dry Pita,
TIP: Signage to the Cafe is poor. It is all the way on the East end, opposite the self-parking garage.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.palms.com/eat-and-drink/casual-dining/serrano-vista-cafe
Reopened in October 2021, a pandemic induced hiatus and rearranged dining room in the rearview, Le Cirque at Bellagio remains the resort’s most sought-after reservation, even more so on Friday when Chef Danny Lledó of Washington DC’s Xiquet and Slate Wine Bar joined Chef Dameon Evers for a special two-night Tasting Menu.
Faultless under the direction of General Manager Gabriel Fontenier, the night divided into two seatings, guests entering the jewel box space were greeted by name and quickly handed a Cocktail before being whisked away to a room of plush fabrics and light music beneath the big top.
Serving seven courses on this night flanked by an Amuse and Mignardises it was not long before dinner was started, aged Tuna shocking the palate before Chef Evers’ showstopping Corn Bavarois topped in Kaluga Caviar and curly Popcorn Tuile.
Carefully paired with Wine by Sommelier Freddy Montandon alongside Wine Director Sanae Halprin, the former presenting tropical Granbazán Etiqueta Verde Albariño before Sea Cucumbers and Sobrasada with hints of Honey, a Red from Spain next found itself matched to chlorophyll-kissed Rice topped in a tongue of Hokkaido Uni.
Reaching for Bordeaux to match Turbot and Salsify from Chef Lledó, then Chateauneuf Du Pape for Dameon’s Guinea Hen with Black Truffles and Foie Gras Mignonette, it was after cleansing the palate with Pear Brandy that A5 Wagyu received classic treatment by way of Chanterelle Mushrooms and perfect Bordelaise.
Returning to Sparkling Wine with Dessert, Cerdon Rose making a return appearance before Compressed Melon followed by a textural Chocolate Tart, Mignardises arrived alongside Coffee, a signed menu and one of Le Cirque’s classic chargers as a gift for the lady.
N/A: Unfair to be judged as a pop-up Las Vegas remains fortunate to have a Restaurant like Le Cirque as GM Gabriel Fontenier and Chef Dameon Evers continue to reinvent and refine a storied space into something entirely new yet undeniably iconic.
RECOMMENDED: All dishes were one-offs, but look for that Caviar and Corn dish toward the top of 2022’s “Most Memorable”
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Le Cirque is currently open Thursday through Monday from 5 p.m. – 10 p.m.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
