Described as a “love letter” to Chicken Half Bird is the newest culinary concept from Chef Brian Howard, the man whose Sparrow + Wolf helped elevate Spring Mountain now focusing on a more casual Restaurant without sacrificing in terms of technique or complexity.
Opened in August to raves from (their words) “Cool Food Kids,” though the location at the end of a constantly-crowded plaza has thus far delayed an on-site visit by this writer, it was via catering that Chef Howard chose to send a smattering of menu offerings on Friday with delivery both professional and timely.
Offering “whatever Chicken you’re craving,” in this case omitting Rotisserie Birds in favor of fried “Nuggs” and Sandwiches, Half Bird immediately shows good branding in terms of packaging and nomenclature – the bite-sized Poultry moist with good spicing even before being plunged into one of seven housemade Sauces.
Comparable to Big Chicken in scope and price, though the source of Half Bird’s Birds is not promoted, Sandwiches see Howard and team coat Breasts delicately before placing them on housemade Potato Rolls, “Spring Mountain Hot Chicken” tingling thanks to Sichuan Peppercorn while “Classic” polarized audiences via Cheese and sweet Mayo.
Beta-testing Pot Pie Bao on the group, texture on point but the interior in need of seasoning, Sides feature big flavors but may not be for everyone as Broccoli eats akin to Garlic confit and Brix’s Mac ‘n Cheese has a soupy consistency outside of crispy bits of Canned Meat.
Better off with Fries, slow-cooked Rotisserie Potatoes roasted in the Chicken Fat as crispy as one can hope (and even better ladled with “Umami Gravy,”) Dessert is singular but mighty in the form of crispy-rimmed, soft-centered Chocolate Chunk Cookies flecked with Sea Salt.
THREE STARS: Based on catering alone Half Bird checks all the boxes in terms of customer service plus branding, but across this order seems best when focusing on simplicity rather than more creative flavors where “a Level Up from the Rest!” seems to obscure rather than enhance otherwise skilled cooking. An in-person visit to try the Rotisserie will need to occur for further comment.
RECOMMENDED: Nuggs, Spring Mountain Hot Chicken Sandwich, Gravy Fries, Chocolate Chunk Cookies.
AVOID: Broccoli, Classic Fried Chicken Sandwich.
TIP: Open Sunday through Thursday from 11:00am to 9:00pm, Friday & Saturday 11:00am until 2:00am.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Some say the best Restaurants are those that a guest wants to revisit even before leaving, and over the course of thirty-one meals served across seven years Bardot Brasserie has redefined “the best,” not only in terms of Food but setting and service that all continue to shine under the direction of Chef Joe Cadina.
Less crowded for dinner than brunch it was at noon on Wednesday that Aria’s second floor was found lively, a familiar front-of-house greeting four diners who were seated comfortably at a table in the center of all the action.
Still going strong, no small feat in a city with such diversity of options, it was with confirmation of no allergies or intolerances that Carte Blanche was deferred to a team that has earned unwavering trust, the city’s best Baguette arriving first with a delicate crumb beneath crackling exterior.
Served at a careful pace, Chef Cadina’s recent shift from International Smoke to take over for Nick Dugan seeing ideas from each presented, course one featured a familiar trio of shared Appetizers including Deviled Eggs with Caviar plus ground-to-order Tartare that has wowed diners since day and a plus-size version of Michael Mina’s famous Caviar Parfait.
Continuing with four additional Appetizers, Pâté Grand-Mére and Smoked Sturgeon Rillettes each highlighting classic techniques, it seems hard to believe that a Restaurant doing such volume makes time to plate Salads so elegant as the all-new Duck a l’Orange with Remoulade.
Always doing something seasonal with Foie Gras, currently a classic pairing of Apples and Calvados, Mussels are brightened Pernod plus Espelette Aioli prior to Beef Short Rib that is everything Pot Roast aspires to be.
Served Steak for the first time in a while at Bardot, Prime Beef aged on the Bone never a bad idea, those seeking something lighter should strongly consider Trout Amandine that sees Passion Fruit add subtle tartness to classic Brown Butter.
Nearly too full for Dessert, but only nearly, Bardot’s Macaron remains a must for Chocolate lovers while new or returning items include Espresso Creme Brulee, Apple Tart Tatin and a seasonal Mille-Feuille with Pumpkin Custard.
FIVE STARS: Having repeatedly challenged fellow gourmands to name a better Bistro, Brasserie or Café in North America than Bardot none have yet stood up to the task, and while some may believe that a Restaurant doing big numbers cannot possibly compete with a place that seats fifty I’ll simply say I’ve done the legwork and Bardot can. That Chef Smith, Dugan and now Cadina can maintain such quality at that volume speaks…well…volumes.
RECOMMENDED: Pâté Grand-Mére, Duck a l’Orange Salad, Steak Tartare, Michael Mina’s Caviar Parfait, Pan Roasted Foie Gras, Apple Tarte Tatin, Chocolate Macaron, Mille-Feuille.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Follow @bardot_lv for specials.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Located inside Suite 242 of 6380 South Valley View Boulevard it seems likely that no one will accidentally stumble upon Chocolate Chip Cookie Company, but for those with the prudence to seek Dessert while out and about the small store in front of a commissary kitchen may just be serving Las Vegas’ best collection of locally made rounds.
Focused on “Bringing the Cookie Back,” and previously available only by delivery, it was late 2018 that Jovan Mesa-Glennon and husband John opened a small store at the back of an industrial complex, hours from 10:00am till six o’clock or later daily giving guests a chance to see the facility and take home one or more of several styles.
Baking everything from scratch, Jovan’s secret recipes yielding the sort of Cookie that blossoms a bit around the edge before becoming crisp, it was based on prior experience that two-dozen were ordered, the business’ namesake buttery with just enough Vanilla and Cinnamon to perfume the palate while chunks of Bittersweet Chocolate are partially melted throughout the center.
Prioritizing customer safety by individually bagging each Cookie at no extra cost, Banana Walnut wins guests over by way of natural sweetness and toasty spots in juxtaposition to sugary Toffee Chocolate Chip that is also slightly salty and heterogeneous from bite-to-bite.
Not forgetting White Chocolate and Craisins, nor simple Sugar, Chocolate Chip Cookie Company’s version of a Snickerdoodle lives up to its title of “Cinnamon and Sugar Cookie” thanks to a granulated top plus plenty of Butter while “Half & Half” offers indecisive customers the best of both worlds.
FIVE STARS: Although unlikely to get a lot of foot traffic at the back of an off-strip industrial complex the wife and husband team behind Chocolate Chip Cookie Company are quickly making a name for themselves thanks to a “do one thing and do it well” spot featuring locally-made rounds in a variety of flavors.
RECOMMENDED: Toffee Chocolate Chip Cookie, Cinnamon and Sugar Cookie, Half & Half Cookie, Banana Walnut Cookie, Cranberry White Chocolate Cookie.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Currently open 10:00am to 6:00pm daily and taking orders 24/7 via the website. Available via delivery with GrubHub.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Migrated from adjacent King Fahad Mosque in Culver City to a nondescript strip mall in Hawthorne Zam Zam Market continues to draw crowds for Pakistani Food prepared fresh by a wife and husband kitchen.
Little more than a convenience store at first look, the menu laminated on a wall and service hardly acknowledging guests’ arrivals, it is after brief indecision that choices are made with the bill paid immediately and wait times dependent on robust take-out business.
Stripped-down being generous, the market dusty and tables’ best years passed, it was while sipping room temperature water from a cooler that twenty minutes passed in silence before a sizable plate of Chandad Kabab arrived to ignite the palate with a juicy blend of Meats brightened by Green Chiles.
Barely quelling the fire with a generous Mango Lassi, though a squeeze bottle of Raita helped, course two consisted of Bone-In Lamb Korma better than any tasted elsewhere, fatty Meat gone first followed by every drop of Sauce sopped up with Naan.
Karolyn Plummer says that since the day she started selling Baked Goods she’s offered a money-back-guarantee that has never been requested, and after visiting Sweet Red Peach before a recent game at SoFi Stadium one is inclined to believe the woman frequently referred to as “K.”
Tucked away in a shopping plaza buzzing with activity before game time, the shop’s presence predating both The Rams and Chargers relocation to Los Angeles, it is inside that guests find friendly servers and myriad choices ranging from Cakes to Cookies, Pies and Puddings.
A story like many others, the love of baking prompting a career change, Plummer started out selling her goods at alternative venues before setting up shop officially in 2000, the same Banana Pudding that once wowed at Salons or Church still doing the same today thanks to heft and smoothness but more natural flavor than others.
Protecting products behind glass, the kitchen in back still hard at work midday Sunday, additional selections included two Cookies and a pair of Cake slices, the former still gooey and messy in a good way while Red Velvet and less commonly seen 7-Up each serve as a reminder that Food made for the #gram doesn’t necessarily taste better than good ol’ fashioned classics made with passion.
The anchor of Woodside Plaza, featuring SoCal’s “Cobbler Lady” Pam Wright, Cobblers Cakes & Kream may not seem like much from a distance but just like their eponymous Fruit beneath Pastry its whats on the inside that counts.
Part of Inglewood since 2011, though Wright’s love of baking predates her teenage years, it is amongst sterile confines that guesrs will find an abudance of choices at fair prices, the Cobblers ready to reheat and in this case filled by juicy Peaches without too much added sweetener underneath a buttery golden top.
Opting for variety, staff helpful but not particularly friendly, additional choices included a forgettable Cookie followed by classic Red Velvet Cake, smooth Sweet Potato Pie and Banana Pudding so thick it’ll hold a spoon upright for as long as it takes to devour each delicious bite.
Opened in Westchester by George and Rena Poulos in 1958 Pann’s is likely more famous for the architecture, signage and role in movies than the food – though the latter is perfectly adequate for a Diner while prices are fair for what one gets.
A rare remnant of Eldon Davis’ Googie design, sharp angles with large windows looking out to a parking lot plus surroundings, guests are seated in booths or at a bar surrounding the kitchen where line cooks operate efficiently as music plays overhead.
Decorated with photos of Vin Diesel, Pann’s part of xXx as well as other feature films, the menu is fairly basic ranging from Breakfast to lunch and with no Dessert available the choice of a Waffle, Pork Chop, Grits and a Biscuit was fairly simple with each properly made while Coffee is so acrid that one doesn’t mind the lack of timely refills.
MARITOZZO ROMANO – Crema di Limone, Vanilla Chantilly, Pistachio
With the runaway success of Felix it was only a matter of time before Evan Funke opened his second Restaurant, and with Mother Wolf the man who hashtagged #fuckyourpastamachine has somehow outperformed expectations aidst an impressive ballroom space.
Designed as a fast-paced Roman-themed eatery, Funke’s obsession with top-tier Ingredients turning what at first seems like a see-and-be-seen party into a dining destination, it is via coveted Reservations that guests find themselves seated beneath chandeliers plus loud music while servers circulate at a brisk pace.
As much a social event as Dinner thus far, think Carbone without theatrical captains, Mother Wolf’s menu looks a lot like Felice a Testaccio and whether one begins with Bruschetta beneath Anchovies or Cheese-filled Squash Blossoms the quality is evident in each bite.
Not forgetting a Panzanella Salad benefited by imported Burrata plus California’s bounty, nor Suppli and fried Oxtail Meatballs better than the majority in Italy, Funke’s Pizzas receive due praise thanks to a fair price and gently blistered Dough that supports Tomatoes with Mozzarella well but truly shines wrapped around Mortadella, Ricotta and Pistachios.
A “scene” by 7:00pm, the foyer clogged by would-be diners and Bar four-deep, Pastas tally nine and of the seven tasted standouts included masterful Cacio e Pepe, creamy All’amatriciana flecked with Guanciale, vibrant Puttanesca and Mezze Maniche beneath complex Wild Boar Ragù.
Entirely over-the-top, skewered New Zealand Lamb Belly an added bit of indulgence with char juxtaposing rendered Fat, Desserts include housemade Gelato and inventive Sorbetti while those in need of something a bit more filling should head straight for the Sbriciolata or signature Maritozzo.
Self-described as “The World’s Freshest Doughnuts,” and personally felt to be the Nation’s premier purveyor of fried Dough ever since stumbling across the Costa Mesa flagship in 2013, it was via good fortune that Sidecar Doughnuts & Coffee was found at Fairfax and 3rd on Saturday, several fresh-from-the-fryer rings again demonstrating unparalleled Ingredients and smartly developed recipes.
Currently location number seven, 175 South Fairfax Avenue near The Farmers Market and a clientele capable of paying upwards of $5 for something many associate with an on-the-go bite sold for less than a buck by Dunkin, it was mostly from novelties that a four were selected, Susie’s Blueberry Pancake a mix of Maple with Fresh Fruit amidst Cake while Bourbon Pecan Pie utilizes Brioche to make a statement better than any Crust might.
Moving next to a classic, Sidecar’s Saigon Cinnamon Crumb showing why sourcing matters as bold aromatics are carried by Butter, it should come as no surprise that when Sidecar does Pumpkin Spice it gets a little extra love with Cream Cheese drizzle and a base as delicate as it is moist.
Pandan Tres Leches, Calamansi Creamsicle, Pandan Cone
Inspired by travel, and likely firm believers that not all who wander are lost, it was midday that Wanderlust Creamery on 3rd was found sparsely populated, previous visits to the Venice and Atwater Village locations setting expectations high and the Ice Cream once again excellent.
Owned and operated by Jon-Patrick Lopez and Adrienne Borlongan, the former attorney providing financial backing to Ms. Borlongan’s talents fostered in Food Science, guests entering the shop will quickly notice stark design, an expansive footprint with limited seating plus flavors listed with comprehensive notes including Ingredients and cities of reference.
Still skimpy with samples, Turon and Halo Halo essentially indistinguishable by the shaving, it is with good fortune that both chosen flavors featured a bold base and good texture, Pandan Tres Leches a Wanderlust must and Calamansi Creamsicle everything Orange Sherbet aspires to be, but better.
Although it took Ugly Delicious to inform most of Tokyo-style Neapolitan Pizza Chef William Joo and wife Jennifer So seek to spread the word in Southern California at Pico-Robertson hotspot Pizzeria Sei.
A veteran of Ronan, Angelini Osteria and Pizzana, his own oven a Gas-augmented Wood-burner ranging 800-900 Fahrenheit, Joo choose the name Sei as homage to Susumu Kakinuma’s Seirinkan plus the Italian number “Six” – by no coincidence the same number of slices as in one of his Pies.
Reservations recommended, just the bar and a few tables available to enjoy Pizzas blistering hot from the oven, it was while enjoying pickled Vegetables from the Market that three guests watched a lone Pizzaiolo at work, each round given the utmost attention to detail from stretching to topping to firing and service.
Best compared to now-shuttered Sotto, the Crust less “Bread” than Mozza but charring more aggressive than Pizzana, each of three Pizzas is subtly different than the others, yet whether topped as spicy Diavola or daily-special Patate the combination of peerless Ingredients and crispy Cornicione with a delicate crumb is tough to call anything less than next-level for America.
Island Chocolate – Lydgate Farms Single Estate Chocolate Icing
Life of Pi – Kabocha Squash, Pumpkin Spice, Vanilla Bean
J Thrilla – Chocolate, Coconut Butter
Theobroma – Cacao Sugar
Begun as a “Sunday Ritual” by Nile and Hana Dreiling in Kauai Holey Grail can safely now be called a pilgrimage, those hand-fried Taro Donuts from a Burger trailer since spawning three Hawaiian storefronts plus Food Trucks including one at the Culver City Platform on Washington Boulevard.
Still generating lengthy waits circumvented by pre-orders, a local team enjoying Donuts nearby after a long run, it was Saturday morning that five freshly-fried rounds were enjoyed beginning with a piping-“Hot Single” with its crispy exterior decorated by Honey plus flakes of Sea Salt.
Sustainability and Supply-chain focused, local farmers from Hawaii to California and Oregon involved with Donuts all built upon Hawaii-grown Taro fried in 100% organic and sustainably-sourced Coconut Oil, “Island Chocolate” taps Lydgate Farms for Single Estate Chocolate Icing while “J Thrilla” ups the ante via a drizzle of pure Coconut Butter.
Heavy on branding, perhaps sacrilegious to some, Donuts arrive in 100% compostable packaging and completing this week’s “Community Box” with Cacao Sugar-rolled “Theobroma” plus Pumpkin-spiced “Life of Pi” it’d be hard to say this “culinary crusade” isn’t worth celebrating.
Made famous by an LA Times article in 2019 Zooies Cookies remains hidden inside a Cheviot Hills gas station still today, the “We Got It” convenience store adjacent selling all the usuals while Arezou Appel and her team of Bakers churn out more than thirty styles of baked Dough daily.
Trained as a Chiropractor, immigration from Iran after the revolution prompting a career change inspired by the Food Network, Appel’s counter inside husband Jeff’s shop takes on global inspiration – Baklava perfumed by Rose Water while Tarte Tatin shines thanks to a buttery round beneath caramelized Fruit.
Crispy rimmed with soft centers, Brown Butter Chocolate Chip uncompromising and “Yellow Brick Road” chewy with Oats paired to Butterscotch, “Salted Caramel” unfortunately falls flat by relying too much on its topping without much going on beneath.
Also offering Cookies for those with restrictions, Diabetic-friendly, Paleo, Gluten-free and Vegan, suffice it to say that Zooies’ Almond Cookie outpaces those in the SGV while “Nutty Carrot Cake” would benefit from a bit more Clove or Ginger amidst the otherwise soft and moist base.
A part of Inglewood since 1983 The Serving Spoon was originally opened by Ohio-native Harold Sparks, his dream of opening a Soul Food Restaurant fulfilled and family still in charge to this day.
Now managed by Harold’s daughter and son-in-law, “Love At First Bite” still the motto and signs throughout inspiring positive thoughts, it is from 8a-2p daily that guests can find favorites served amidst cozy confines as Soul plays at the bar with Sports on TV.
Using Friends or Family to name combo plates, perfectly fried Catfish and a crispy Waffle dubbed “Sparks,” it is with Hot Sauce on the former that bites disappear quickly while Cornbread on the side is cut a bit small but toothsome, moist and ready to sop up Honey plus Butter.
Taking inspiration from the Vegas Golden Knights locals Jenny Lynne and Mark Edington opened Pucks Cookies & Treats in February 2022, premier positioning inside the District at Green Valley Ranch offering an opportunity at success selling 3-ounce rounds, Ice Cream and cleverly named combinations of both.
Smartly branded in the era of Instagram, signage and décor just begging for a picture behind scratch-made Cookies baked from good Ingredients, Pucks menu currently consists of seven or eight flavors including a “Gluten-Friendly” option, first bites of sugared-Dough beneath white Frosting impressive from crisp edge to soft center amidst bold notes of Vanilla.
Delivered as a 32-count “Mother Pucker” for $88, prices comparable to crumbl, additional highlights include rich Peanut Butter and a weekly special German Chocolate complete with Caramel plus Coconut.
Open at 11:00am daily with fresh bakes to replenish supply it should come as no surprise that best-selling Chocolate Chip features hints of Cinnamon in the heterogenous matrix while Cookies and Cream reminisces of an Oreo without being overly sweet.
Finishing up with recently-added Caramel Apples, certainly more enjoyable than vulcanized rubber but less than the Cookies, a look at this week’s menu suggests several reasons including Pumpkins and Apples to return quickly.
FOUR STARS: Now changing the menu week-to-week the team at Pucks gets it right with their clever branding, fair prices and quality.
RECOMMENDED: Vanilla Icing, Peanut Butter, German Chocolate.
Now a yearly tradition it was alongside four others on Saturday night that Jean Georges Steakhouse once again found Chef Sean Griffin and his team executing at an unparalleled level.
Led by Chef Griffin since 2015, including a renovation that upgraded décor and delivery of pristine Proteins and Produce, guests entering Jean Georges Steakhouse are greeted first at a podium before being led to spot-lit tables, the mood upscale but never stuffy while prices track similar to other like-Restaurants that feature far less creative cuisine.
Decorated in gold, and buzzing with activity, it was at a long table that carte blanche was deferred to the kitchen, Wine and Cocktails quickly followed by indulgent Caviar Toast, buttery Loaves of Brioche and familiar appetizers such as Charred Octopus, Wagyu Carpaccio and sliced Fish draped atop pan-seared Rice.
Always inventive, Foie Gras with Hibiscus-Fig Sauce absolutely stunning, Salads served as a segue to grilled Meats, the iconic Hearts of Palm and Tomatoes praised by all for its brightness while a hearty Wedge and complex plate of Endive also lightened the load before Lamb Chops alongside Rib Cap, Filet and F1 Wagyu cooked Medium Rare.
Adding a few new specials, Lion’s Mane Mushroom with Sweet Soy Brown Butter a Vegetarian’s dream stand-in for Steak, Black Truffle Risotto performs expectedly well while no guest should leave Jean Georges without a taste of the city’s best Fried Chicken – and if in season also the Tempura Squash with Honey and Truffles.
Refreshing the palate between bites with Mac, Vegetables and Potatoes in three forms Dessert saw a “Passion Fruit Flower”plus old favorites down the line, Chef Vongerichten’s Chocolate Cake served with tableside theatrics and followed by Cheesecake plus exceptional Apple Pie.
FIVE STARS: Lots of people like to misappropriate terms like “farm-to-table” or “chef-driven” to differentiate their idea from others, but if one wants the very best of what Vegas has to offer there’s no finer place to trust the Chef than at Jean Georges Steakhouse at ARIA where Chef Griffin continues to create sides and starters every bit on par with the stunning selection of Meats.
RECOMMENDED: Caviar Egg Toast, Japanese Wagyu Carpaccio, Tomato Salad, Foie Gras, F1 Wagyu NY Strip, Crunchy Organic Chicken, Crunchy Potatoes, Tempura Squash, Roasted Lion’s Mane Mushroom, Cheesecake, Apple Pie.
AVOID: N/A…but this writer passed on Passion Fruit.
TIP: Online Menu is currently up-to-date.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Named after a popular crop in the Philippines, and a favorite snack of Chef Ramir Bolanos DeCastro, Purple Potato unfortunately shut its doors in the middle of 2019, the closure after just 21 months largely a result of location rather than Food as the healthy Bowls and quick-casual Sandwiches were almost universally well-received.
Now three years older and wiser, COVID-19 having entirely reshaped an Off-Strip dining scene that Chef Ramir helped to initiate with Yonaka in early 2013, Purple Potato marches on as a bakery at 6370 W Flamingo Rd #20 featuring donuts, cookies, Ube-based treats and Filipino Pastries.
Previously offered for delivery or takeout only, but now brick and mortar with pre-orders available online, it was Friday that fifty items were procured for tasting, Savories skipped in favor of recently-added Ensaymada abd Handpies filled with Ube plus Mango.
Scaling back “Monster Cookies” to approximately 4”, Ube Velvet Cookies featuring a crisp rim and soft center while Chocolate Chip Walnut is more traditional, Ube Custard Pie is an unexpected highlight thanks to its rich texture and crackling Sugar top.
Never actually gone from the local food scene, the rebranding of Yonaka and Purple Potato followed by a consulting gig at McCarran, Chef DeCastro’s current lineup continues with Donuts, this day featuring a dozen-plus varieties offering a delicate crumb and fillings ranging from Calamansi or Pastry Cream to Strawberry and Chocolate.
Unafraid to be creative, a Coco Pandan Donut with Sesame Seeds almost more savory than sweet, it was after indulging in Choco Butternut and Calamansi that “Layered Donuts” were tasted including more American ideas such as Maple Bacon or Creme Brulee.
Not forgetting Pie, or Cheesecake that references a Mocha Latte atop a robust Graham Cracker Crust, fans of Coconut will be torn between lavish Young Coconut or lighter Ube Coconut Cream while those who favor Lemon Meringue will find something even better in Purple Potato’s Calamansi Pie.
FIVE STARS: Unlikely to be stumbled upon inside Phoenix Plaza the success of Purple Potato Bakery will depend largely on word of mouth, and based on this first visit plus prior experience it is safe to say Chef Ramir Bolanos DeCastro’s Desserts are better than ever with no lack of creativity.
Opened in 2018, with Anima by EDO debuted January 7 2022, EDO Gastro Tapas & Wine remains Las Vegas’ most exciting Restaurant thanks to its unrivaled ability to look backwards while at the same time pushing boundaries rarely approached by off-Strip dining.
Inspired by Catalonian traditions, Chef Oscar Amador Edo’s upbringing in Barcelona gifting him with a respect for diverse Ingredients and an ability to craft poignant bites that highlight rather than hide them, it was as a party of four that guests were accommodated near the back, GM Roberto Liendo charged with creating a Menu Degustacion including both regularly offered items and nightly inspirations.
An acronym for “Extra Day Off,” though EDO itself is open from 5pm until 9pm daily, it was with most of the Restaurant’s other 32 seats full by 6:00 on Friday that things were underway quickly with others enjoying Bourbon alongside vibrant Gazpacho as well as Charcuterie.
Seafood-centric early, a nine-part composed Shellfish Platter highlighted by Abalone and King Crab with Caviar arriving before Smoked Wild Trout Pate, Dry-Aged Carpaccio remains an EDO classic while Duck Fat Financiers with Ham Mousse and savory Rabbit Macarons are equally praiseworthy.
Weaving traditional to modern in a manner not dissimilar from Jose Andres or even the Adria brothers, Blinis with Octopus “Head Cheese” a bold idea that works beautifully, New Zealand Langoustines succeed with spicy Sauce straight off the grill while no trip to EDO is complete without Patatas Bravas or Bikini Sobrasada.
Next tempura Squid in Citrus, or Spanish Fritto Misto, Oscar’s take on Chawanmushi is silky smooth beneath fresh Uni preceding seared Duck Liver on a bed of creamy Lentils.
Not about to forget Dover Sole in Caviar Beurre Blanc, its mildness magnified by cured Hanger Steak with Mushroom Dust and poignant Sauce, Dessert was gracefully singular but absolutely spectacular as Aji Amarillo Whipped Yogurt arrived atop a Pumpkin-Saffron Macaroon with Candied Butternut Squash.
FIVE STARS: In a city where dining “critic” or “expert” gets liberally applied to folks who’ve never eaten in a Michelin 3* Restaurant or traveled overseas it is hard to take any claim of “best” serious. Every steakhouse has an “amazing” tartare. Every off-strip spot opened by a former strip Chef is “incredible.” Fact of the matter is that not one of them has the skill, daringness or unintentional excellence of EDO. This isn’t food for the #gram. It is not a redundant Caviar cart or GM willing to monkey dance for influencers. The bathroom is *awful* for selfies. This is just pure, heartfelt cuisine from a Chef who understands flavor. It is Las Vegas most exciting restaurant every day and probably the best most nights of the week for anyone who truly values great Food.
RECOMMENDED: Everything was excellent.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: 5:00p-9:00p daily. See Social Media for specials. Reservations available via Opentable.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Already visited thrice since reopening after the pandemic and under new ownership there is little doubt that The Palms is seeking to regain its title as Las Vegas’ best Off-Strip resort, a goal with good chances in terms of dining thanks to Chef Marty Lopez, Tammy Alana and General Manager Jorge Pagani at Scotch 80 Prime.
Debuted late-Spring of 2018, stalwart N9NE Steakhouse making way for a room decorated in Basquiat and Haring, guests visiting Scotch 80 today will find much of the original aesthetic maintained minus paintings kept by past owners, the Bar still well-stocked with rare Whiskeys and service predictably impeccable.
Located at the resort’s east end with an entirely revamped menu, seasonal changes already underway along with an upcoming Tasting Menu and Wagyu Samplers including A5 varieties straight from Japan, it was deferring Carte Blanche to the kitchen that Dinner began with an A5 Wagyu Carpaccio Amuse followed by the first of two Whiskey trios.
Not forgetting delicate Milk Bread, nor hand-cut Steak Tartare made extra smooth by a Quail Egg and melting Duck Liver, the nightly Foie Gras special featured a good sear and Orange Marmalade alongside Prune Armagnac Ice Cream plus Duck Confit in Puff Pastry.
Getting creative with Bone Marrow by adding Beef Cheek and Popcorn alongside “Steakhouse Jerky,” the latter again stunning in terms of taste as well as texture with Thai inspiration, Brie Fondue with Bacon Jam remains a bargain at $17 for an Appetizer that is most certainly sharable.
Refreshing the palate with three more Whiskeys, this time Scotch, it remains safe to say Steaks and Sides at Scotch 80 Prime are amongst Las Vegas’ top-3, a never before seen Bone-in 48oz Japanese A5 Wagyu Tomahawk hulking alongside Mishima 5-Star Wagyu New York Strip and Rib Cap while the “best” side dish is a toss-up between Mushrooms beneath Foie Gras Foam, Truffled “Millionaire’s Maccheroni” or the “Famous” Hash Browns.
Torn between saving room for Dessert or sampling all seven Sauces on additional bites of Steak the decision to do both proved fortuitous, Marty’s Bordelaise made the right way as good as anything one might find in Paris before delving into Pastry Chef Tammy Alana’s delicate Lemon Lime Pavlova and Butterscotch Crème Brulee.
Getting fancy for the #gram with Fireball S’mores, flaming Liquor poured tableside revealing Warm Chocolate Cake, Tammy’s Basque Cheesecake carefully balances bitter and salty with Berries while a dish unveiled in a swirl of smoke finds five types of Chocolate varying in taste, texture, intensity and temperature.
FIVE STARS: Ever since Carnevino closed its doors the desire to visit any Steakhouse but Jean Georges at Aria has been minimal, but with Chefs Marty and Tammy now in charge Scotch 80 may just be the best of its kind. Under the direction of Chef Marcus O’Brien with Jorge Pagani leading the front of house the arms race for best sourcing has been declared via certificates from Japan while both sweets and savories are thoughtful, bold and balanced.
RECOMMENDED: Steak Tartare, Foie Gras, Long Bone Marrow, Steakhouse Jerky, Black Garlic Butter, Red Wine Bone Marrow Bordelaise, Forest Mushrooms, Famous Hash Browns, Millionaire’s Maccheroni, 48oz Japanese A5 Wagyu Tomahawk, Lemon Lime Pavlova, Butterscotch 80 Crème Brulee.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Japanese Wagyu, Snow Beef and Olive Fed Beef priced by the ounce.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
