Samples – Coffee Oreo, Rum Truffle, Horchata, Red Raspberry Ribbon
Husky Flake, Maple Walnut, Sugar Cone
Now under the ownership of Jack Miller, a third generation member of the family who opened Husky Deli in 1932, Husky Deli & Catering & Ice Cream was predictably busy the Wednesday before Thanksgiving – but not so much that staff couldn’t take their time to offer samples and scoops of their famous Ice Cream.
Nothing less than a West Seattle icon, a “throwback” grocer in the best way, guests can expect international goods plus made-to-order Sandwiches, but the real draw are big scoops made on-site and highlighted by “Husky Flake” Stracciatella and Maple Walnut that tastes like cold and creamy Maple Fudge punctuated by lightly bitter bits of crunch.
Made famous by the Cunchy Cream Donut, a Malasada raised by in-house cultivated Yeast that’s stuffed with Pastry Cream and coated in Frosted Flakes, Fuji Bakery was Seattle’s first Japanese Bakery and it remains excellent today thanks to timeless technique plus good Ingredients.
A little more expensive than other Asian Bakeries with most items commanding $4-$6, Thanksgiving-Eve found the main location bustling as pre-orders paired with last minute choices such as gooey Pecan Pie with an all Butter Crust and more Nuts than filler.
Nine items for $50, a Beef Curry Bun and one filled with Red Bean Paste equally impressive as Crunchy Cream, Viennoiseries show well with expert lamination whether traditional in the form of an Almond Croissant or vertically stacked with Bacon and Maple Syrup.
Part of the scene since 2009, another location further South, Caneles fared a little overcooked in terms of Shell and Custard while basic Banana Bread got lost in the wake of a split S’mores Croissant that surprisingly tasted even better than it looked.
Whether the blow hole emitting a bit of Filling atop each of Renee Erickson’s Doughnuts is intentional or simply a result of overfilling is anybody’s guess, but regardless General Porpoise has expanded from Capitol Hill to three locations on the strength of just five or six daily Pastries plus Coffees from a variety of Roasters.
Advertising fresh Eggs plus housemade Jams, Curds and Creams in every Brioche pocket, think Berliners or Malasadas complete with Granulated Sugar, customers can expect to spend $5.50 each for seasonal flavors served amidst stark décor with hints of blue, brown and brass.
Well-branded, though not enough to last past six months in Los Angeles, it is along the window or upstairs that guests may choose to indulge, Cold Brew assertive but smooth without a lot of acidity well-suited to classic Lemon Curd a little sweeter than most.
Nonchalant in terms of service, though the recent addition of Quiche, Sandwiches and Wine may see that change, more sophisticated flavor comes from Quince Jam with a bit of texture while the best bite of November came from delicate Maple Cream inside a springy crumb and crowned by a small Cookie.
From the team behind Cafe Flora and Floret The Flora Bakehouse opened in Seattle’s Beacon Hill neighborhood early-2021, owner Nat Stratton-Clarke’s focus on local, organic, and sustainable products an enviable endeavor that has earned a loyal following from Vegetarians, Vegans and Omnivores.
Occupying two stories including an al fresco rooftop, a lack of WiFi and stark décor creating a place to converse rather than linger, Flora’s collection changes seasonally encompassing both savory and sweet with a bevvy of Barista favorites including Coffee, Hot Chocolate and Tea.
Busy the day prior to Thanksgiving, sun spilling into a space filled with orders to-go, daily choices predictably focused on Autumn though both the Chocolate Chip Cookie and Vegan Cinnamon Roll fortunately ready to delight seven days a week.
Moving next to Pumpkin Tea Cake, not overly sweet across a moist and delicate crumb, do not miss The Flora Bakehouse’s Twice Baked Almond Croissant in all its laminated glory nor the “Bakehouse Blondie” that reads like a Kitchen Sink Cookie but eats more thick and chewy.
Slinging fried Dough in White Center since 2018 Good Day Donuts is less heralded than the likes of Top Pot or Mighty O, a fact perhaps attributable to smaller-than-average specimens and customer service that seems more interested in what’s happening on Twitter or TikTok.
Open Wednesday through Sunday from 8am until 2pm, Erik Jackson’s past as a Chef displayed by Sandwiches plus the occasional Dinner Pop-Up, it was for $2 a piece that Donuts were packed by a man who spoke no more than six words after groggily emerging from the back.
Inexpensive even considering the portions, a $4 “large” Fritter with almost no Fruit the exception, Old Fashioned fans will be pleased by Good Day’s glazed cogwheel with subtle sourness though the “Buttermilk Hunk” would benefit from topping while warm to allow for better penetration.
Handmade daily, raised Rings and Bars with good elasticity constituting most of the collection, Maple Icing comes across surprisingly natural while “Salted Glaze” and Biscoff each offer something a little different from the usual.
The Caramelo – Yeast Doughnut, White Frosting, Caramel Cheesecake, Chocolate Drizzle, Caramel Drizzle
Nutella Face DoughCro – Croissant Doughnut, Glaze, Nutella, Powdered Sugar
Occupying 9435 West Tropicana Avenue inside Crossroads Plaza Shopping Center and open 24-hours with fresh bakes replenishing supply as necessary, it was with items carefully boxed and delivered to an office three miles away that Pinkbox brightened Friday morning.
More and more social-media savvy over the years it is with warm greetings from friendly staff that guests are greeted on entry, recently raised prices sweetened through cheaper-by-the-dozen discounts that apply regardless of whether one chooses OG Classics, Good Fellas, Show Offs or Fancy Pancy.
Often beginning with a Fritter, this day no different and the resulting bite packed with Cinnamon plus Fruit, it was after others made selections that Coconut Dream Pie continued the gluttony, its Custard center a mellow backdrop to Maple Frosting, Whip and toasted Coconut.
Fully committed to clever nomenclature, “Cherry Bomb” packed with housemade Pie filling in a way fans of “Raspberry Squeeze” will be accustomed to, “Mr. Blueberry” succeeds similarly thanks to White Chocolate plus Cheesecake while Lil Blue and several Old Fashioned cogwheels show Roberto Armanino knew early-on to nail the basics.
Knowing full-well which purist would scoop up “Suga Daddy,” it was later in the day that several Doughnuts remained, a reference-standard Maple Bar stowed away intentionally while Holiday specials, more OGs and DoughCros all performed admirably.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: A fan of the staff and fried Dough at Pinkbox for over nine years there remains no place better for Ol’ Fashioned and artisan choices, but as prices have inched upwards the value for more basic forms of Bars or Raised Donuts has diminished even as creativity has flourished.
RECOMMENDED: Ol’ Fashioned, Coconut Dream Pie, Apple Fritter, Mr. Blueberry, Mama’s Tres Leches, Cherry Bomb, Raspberry Squeeze, DoughCros.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Open 24/7
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
The Loving v. Virginia – The Legal Marriage between a Cookie and a Brownie
The Mexican Chocolate Chip Muffin
The Banana Flax Cake
Having enjoyed David Mozes’ and Chef Peter’s Bronze Café at The Center, The Market and Juice Stars, it was to #supportlocal that lunch was catered from their North Buffalo location on Wednesday, a collection of old favorites predictably arriving on time with plenty of plates and utensils that allowed staff to enjoy every second of their lunch hour.
Located near Desert Shores in Summerlin, the former home of Beau Monde Bakery providing turnkey access for a Restaurant offering Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, it is focused on health-conscious and diet-friendly fare that many guests began with Vegetables or Salad including “David’s Special” that remains popular thanks to Quinoa, Garbanzos, Hemp and Avocado that compliment thinly sliced Kale.
Continuing with “Sammiches,” both California Turkey and “The What What” receiving praise from those fortunate enough to snag a half, it was a bit more slowly that the double-Bacon LGBTQ and rebranded “Basil Chicken Salad” disappeared, though these remain personal favorites.
Happy to receive a glut of Desserts, all Vegan, those missing Beau Monde’s gluten-free offerings will be happy to know both the Banana Flax Cake and more are made without any Wheat protein, as too is a fully loaded Carrot Cake that only gets better with time.
Continuing strong with the cleverly titled Loving v Virginia, a Brookie that sees both halves nicely textured, Chai Spice and Rocky Road Cookies are soft and almost Cake-like while those seeking something new should consider the Raspberry Scone that eats far lighter than its British counterpart.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, no matter where Chef Peter and David are set-up the quality has never declined, lunch on Thursday continuing to show quality and creativity bound to please those with and without dietary restrictions, whether they want to be gluttonous or eat light.
RECOMMENDED: The LGBTQ Sammich, The Basil Chicken Salad Sammich, The Gingerbread Muffin, The Mixed Berry Muffin, The Banana Flax Cake, The Carrot Cake, The Cinnamon Streusel Muffin.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: 8a-8p daily at 2380 N Buffalo Drive, Suite 110. 702-852-2830. Online ordering via all the usual apps but catering best coordinated by contacting the Restaurant directly.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Glazed Donut Bread Pudding – Three Rum Caramel, Vanilla Crème Anglaise
Bourbon Fudge Brownie – Brown Butter Bacon Ice Cream
Fortunate to have tasted every new plate at Carson Kitchen since summer of 2015, Chefs Harwell, Simon and team forever rethinking even longtime best-sellers, it was with greetings from Drew Weintraub that six diners were seated at a familiar table Monday at 6:00pm for a look at Winter 2022’s menu.
Still DTLV’s best Restaurant since its inception, a team of talented servers providing faultless service while music plays overhead, it was alongside Cocktails that dining began shortly, Love You Long Time citrusy but smooth in a manner well suited to iconic Chicken Skins, bubbling Bacon Jam and Tempura Green Beans with Pepper Jelly Cream Cheese.
Continuing with more Skins, equally enjoyable today as in 2014, Brussels Sprouts find new life as a Waldorf Salad while Grilled Oysters with Pork-Butter are a beautiful bite to enjoy alongside “Why The Long Face?” featuring Vodka and a bracing Cranberry Shrub with bubbles.
More hearty with Pumpkin Soup lent texture and complexity by Bacon plus Chili Oil, not to mention shredded Boar Tacos that succeed despite seemingly mismatched Tomatillos and Cranberries, “The Angry Tony” riffs on a Bees Knees with hints of smoke suited to all three current Flatbreads.
Unlimited in influence whether Moroccan Cauliflower or British Bubble & Squeak skewed Southern, a Mathew Harwell-inspired “Let’s Hug It Out” soon arriving, new Entrees include thinly pounded Eggplant fried crisp plus perfectly cooked Salmon atop a trio of Peppers.
Again venturing south with a Hot Duck Sandwich that one-ups Nashville’s most famous culinary contribution, and coming out of left field with ribbons of Pasta decorated by Rabbit plus Poblano Pepper Cream, Dessert remains a “two of each” affair featuring a Coffee-based “Light & Sweet,” Las Vegas’ best Brownie and Donut Bread Pudding plus all-new Cereal Milk Tres Leches spiked with Amaro beneath crumbled Cap’n Crunch Cereal.
FIVE STARS: Ground-breaking since opening Carson Kitchen’s greatness has seemingly become so expected that many are prone to overlook it, but on Monday night 124 South 6th Street was jammed-packed for a new menu that continues to exude creativity, quality and the sort of Food that challenges without compromise yet always seems delicious and familiar. Sure the “next big thing” might be exciting, but usually its not and this sort of sustained excellence is what continues to make Carson Kitchen Downtown Las Vegas’ most important Restaurant.
RECOMMENDED: Crispy Chicken Skins, Tempura Green Beans, Pumpkin Soup, Wild Boar Tacos, The Angry Tony, Hot Duck Sandwich, Rabbit Alfredo, Light & Sweet, Tres Leches, Bourbon Fudge Brownie.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Full Menu 11:30 to 10pm Mon-Thu and till 11pm Friday as well as Saturday. Brunch is offered 11:00am until 4:00pm on Sundays, with the whole menu also available then and up to closing.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Founded in partnership with the Las Vegas Pizza Alliance, Novmber 12th marked Las Vegas’ second Pizza Festival, and with participants including Good Pie, Pizza Rock, Metro Pizza, The Naked City Pizza Shop and others the event at The Industrial Event Space was a tremendous success both for vendors and those fortunate enough to attend.
Truly a showcase for local talent, and well-spaced across the outdoor venue downtown, it was shortly before noon that VIP guests gained entrance to taste more than twenty different Slices, each place showcasing their unique signature style, from classic Sicilian and Grandma to modern and even Gluten-free.
More celebration than competition, Metro’s John Arena having long-fostered collaboration amongst would-be competitors, which Slice was “best” became moot almost immediately, though truth be told that honor would be a two-way tie between Metro’s 5 Day Rise Sicilian and Pizza Rock’s picture perfect Detroit Rosa.
Only $75 for all-you-can eat Slices plus a take-home box, VIPs also offered a lounge with Music, more Food and plenty of cold adult Beverages for $50 extra, it seems impossible to imagine that any guest left hungry or disappointed…except perhaps for the fact that they’ll have to wait twelve months for the event to (hopefully) take place once again.
Apple Pear Fritter – Spiced Apple Pear Vanilla Cardamom Glaze
Now serving Sin City for over two years it was via online ordering that a dozen Wicked Donuts were delivered to the office, execution less dialed-in than prior though the majority were still quite delicious.
Already discussing Pastry Chef Robert Teddy’s background here, it was from the seasonal menu that ten styles were tasted, classics both Raised and Cake buttery with premium handmade toppings including real Vanilla Bean, fresh Fruit and rich Chocolate Ganache.
Offering roughly two-dozen flavors daily, in addition to freshly-fried minis available in a keto-friendly fashion, any discussion of Wicked Donuts should begin with the base, buttery Brioche or toothsome Cake best allowed to shine beneath tangy Buttermilk or Vanilla Glaze, though upgrading to Blueberry or Lemon Poppyseed is highly advised.
Next indulging in old favorites, PB&J continuing to occupy rarefied air as one of Las Vegas’ best Donuts while the Lemon Meringue Pie outperforms many plated Deserts, Chef Teddy’s Apple Pear Fritter still lacks the desirable amount of Fruit.
Eschewing Artificial Colors or Preservatives, a fact pertinent to Cream-filled choices that may be left in a conference room or kitchen at room temperature, suffice it to say that most will not last long, nor did “Triple Chocolate Cake” which is as rich as it sounds.
Adding crispy Bacon to Maple Iced Brioche, a modern-classic rarely done better, “Cointreau Crème Brulee” packs a punch while “Blue Suede Banana” riffs on the King’s favorite minus Pork but plus Dark Chocolate.
FOUR STARS: An experienced palate will immediately notice Wicked Donuts quality matches or out-performs anyone locally from Toppings-to-Base, though Pink Box still sets the bar high for variety.
RECOMMENDED: Blueberry Fritter, PB&J Raised Donut, Blue Suede Banana Donut.
AVOID: Mojito is an acquired taste not developed in this writer.
TIP: 5:30am until sold-out daily. Check the website for online ordering and follow @wicked_donuts and @wickeddonutsusa on Social.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Young Coconut Pie – Young Coconut Meat, Custard, Coconut Streusel, Butter Crust
Calamansi Pie – Calamansi Custard, Meringue, Butter Crust
Named after a popular crop in the Philippines, and a favorite snack of Chef Ramir Bolanos DeCastro, Purple Potato unfortunately shut its doors in the middle of 2019, the closure after just 21 months largely a result of location rather than Food as the healthy Bowls and quick-casual Sandwiches were almost universally well-received.
Now three years older and wiser, COVID-19 having entirely reshaped an Off-Strip dining scene that Chef Ramir helped to initiate with Yonaka in early 2013, Purple Potato marches on as a bakery at 6370 W Flamingo Rd #20 featuring Donuts, Cookies, Ube-based treats and Filipino Pastries.
Previously offered for delivery or takeout only, but now brick and mortar with pre-orders available online, it was Wednesday that nine items were delivered, Savories skipped in favor of recently-added Mango Cheesecake Donuts featuring a Brioche base and Cream Cheese Mousse merged with housemade Jam.
Scaling back “Monster Cookies” to approximately 4”, Calamansi Funfetti currently off the menu, Ube and Red Velvet rounds feature a crisp rim with molten center while Chocolate Chip Walnut is more traditional but no less enjoyable.
Never actually gone from the local food scene, the rebranding of Yonaka and Purple Potato followed by a consulting gig at McCarran, Chef DeCastro’s current lineup continues with Croissant-style Donuts, this day featuring a dozen varieties ranging from an Ube trio to “Churro” piped with Dulce de Leche.
Not about to miss Calamansi, neither a Donut rolled in Polvoron nor the Pie atop an all-Butter Crust beneath airy sweetened Egg Whites, fans of Coconut should head straight for lavish Young Coconut Pie with strip-studded Custard and a layer of Streusel on top.
FIVE STARS: Unlikely to be stumbled upon inside Phoenix Plaza the success of Purple Potato Bakery will depend largely on word of mouth, and based on a handful of visits it is safe to say Chef Ramir Bolanos DeCastro’s Desserts are better than ever with no lack of creativity.
Serving Las Vegas since January 8th 2022, the old Kitchen Table Squared space getting a big upgrade, Anima by EDO merges Italian and Spanish Cuisine into a whole new experience with several of Chef Oscar Amador’s signatures making their way over from Chinatown.
Tapping industry veterans from front-of-house to kitchen, Chris Leavitt heading up the bar, it is following warm greetings at the door that guests are led to a choice of diverse seating options, banquets in the back most quiet with a full view of murals from local artist Apolo Torres.
More “approachable” than EDO Gastro Tapas & Wine per General Manager Roberto Liendo, though certainly never lacking for creativity, Dinner at Anima begins with Appetizers briny Oysters preceding Baby Scallops topped in Brown Butter Curls plus good Olive Oil.
Serving Charcuterie from the former Barista station near the door, a mix of Spanish and Italian choices perfect for two-to-four alongside “Catalan Olive Oil Bread” and Anchovies, Sashimi-grade Tuna comes next coiled inside Aji Amarillo Escabeche.
Focused largely on new items, though Foie Gras in whatever form Oscar chooses to serve it is a must, Carbonara Tarts pack plenty of punch into just one bite while grilled Artichokes benefit tremendously from shaved Duck Liver plus Romesco utilizing Tomatillos and a bit of heat.
Going all-in on Pastas, four of five recently added and the Bone Marrow-slathered Cavatelli an Instagram-friendly signature, seasonality is embodied by vegetal Capelletti with Rabbit and Chestnuts served hot on the heels of an enormous Pasta-pocket filled with Dungeness Crab, Ricotta and Egg Yolk.
Richer with Cheese Raviolini topped in Pork, Spinach and Pistachios, more so via Duck Agnolotti fortified with Foie, entrees included rosy Duck Breast amidst acid plus Lamb Neck cooked crisp on the surface but rich and unctuous within.
Rounding out the night with Desserts, Matcha Creme Brulee polarizing but poignant in its bitter-sweet juxtaposition, Pineapple Canelon remains light and bright while Chocolate Cremoso shows off Ingredient quality through its simplicity.
FIVE STARS: From the team that brought Las Vegas EDO Gastro Tapas & Wine, Anima by EDO is bigger and brighter with all the right ingredients to succeed where others have struggled, its continued evolution since opening a testament to the talent of Chef Oscar. GM Roberto Liendo and everyone else involved.
RECOMMENDED: PERUVIAN BABY SCALLOPS, ITALIAN & SPANISH BOARD, FOIE GRAS TERRINE, SPANISH ARTICHOKE A LA PLANCHA, RAVIOLONE, CARROT CAPELLETI, DUCK & FOIE GRAS AGNOLOTTI, LAMB NECK ROULADE.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: 5:00p-9:00p Thursday through Tuesday, Wednesday dark. Reservations via OpenTable.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Recently replacing Marc Sgrizzi’s 6th restaurant in the past decade Trattoria by Chef Joel will soon be reformatting inside the Ahern Hotel, but on Saturday four guests sat down for a look at whats to eat on the tasting menu overlooking an open kitchen.
Not a new Restaurant as opposed to basic rebranding, Joel Ott’s name replacing Marc on the marquis in Ahern’s lobby, it is alongside construction curtains that diners will find tables plus a counter suggesting what looks to have previously been a Buffet.
Familiar with Ott from the Four Seasons, a pleasant man happy to discuss ideas present and future, Trattoria’s Tasting menu features straight-forward Italian Fare alongside “flights” of Wine that see everything described and poured at once with numbering to pair each with a course.
Using a mix of robots and staff to serve, though the counter utilizes Ahern’s culinary team, course one offered a Beets and Burrata Salad followed by Spanish Octopus a bit overcooked alongside crispy Potatoes.
Not sure if the Tasting changes frequently, all items served essentially portioned down from Trattoria’s usual list, the “Chicago-style” Calzone impressed all despite criticism from a supposed Deep Dish expert while the Meatball at its side was crumbly thanks to too much cooking time just like the Cheese on top.
Improved with housemade Pasta, Osso Buco Ravioli reminiscent of Batali’s famous Beef Cheek version, Chef Ott’s Chicken Parmesan elevates a classic by cooking it extra thin and crispy beneath vibrant Tomato Sauce also served atop Rigatoni.
Surf n’ Turf to finish, Prime NY Strip and Wild Shrimp prepared Scampi-style each cooked flawlessly, Dessert may not scream “Trattoria” but it is nonetheless successful with Carrot Cake and Sticky Toffee Pudding both better than most in Las Vegas and Irish Cream Chocolate Mousse Cake an unexpected winner.
THREE STARS: Best gauged as a “work-in-progress” right now Trattoria by Chef Joel serves competent Italian Cuisine at a fair price, but considering its location and current lack of traffic the execution of certain items could have been better and none of it is good enough to make the Restaurant a destination as opposed to a hotel amenity.
Born in Logan, Utah Crumbl took the city by storm, their Instagramable rounds offered in thirty stores across six states by 2019 and now easily 100+ with six in Las Vegas including the Durango location opened in May 2020.
Created by Sawyer Hemsley and Jason McGowan, rapid expansion through franchising yielding mixed results from store to store as evidence by Social Media, it was after three improving experiences that the westside storefront proved competent, the staff exceedingly pleasant whilst describing each $3 choice.
Undoubtedly popular in part due to photogenicity, though a sterile interior oversells the fact that everything is made from scratch, the first thing those entering will notice is Crumbl’s limited collection of just six weekly flavors, four specials alongside Sugar slathered in seasonal Icing plus Chocolate Chip that uses all Milk Chocolate and trends far too sweet.
Still a young company, so much success despite only starting in September 2017 certainly enviable, best bites came from specials that included “Peanut Butter Nougat,” all the flavors of Snickers well represented even before placing Candy pieces on top.
Offered onsite or via delivery from 8am until at least 10pm Monday through Saturday it was next that Blue Monster merged crumbl’s Sugar and Chocolate Chip into something slightly better while Almond Coconut Fudge riffed on a Mounds Bar nicely.
Again finding “Cake” concepts better than the Cookies by which crumbl made their name “Cornbread Honey Cake” set a high standard for both the brand and Cookies in general by creating something just savory enough to be Cornbread and then offsetting it with Honey Cream Cheese Frosting plus textural components.
FOUR STARS: With Cookies currently seeing a surge in popularity Utah-brand Crumbl lures guests in by rotating flavors weekly, this collection successful with a few flavors but still more “cake” than cookie.
OXTAIL NOODLE SOUP – Oxtails, Green Onions, Ginger
BBQ FRIED RICE – Char Siu Pork, House Fried Rice
MONGOLIAN BEEF – Green Onions, Chili, Garlic
CHARRED GREEN BEANS – Hoisin Garlic Sauce, Chili Oil
KUNG PAO CHICKEN NOODLES – Red Peppers, Peanuts, Chili Crunch
EGG CUSTARD TART – Berry Cream, Berries
CHINESE DONUTS
Built out of dead space at The Strat CHĪ Asian Kitchen opened without fanfare in late October, only a few signs around the property alerting guests to a secret that may just be one of 2022’s best new Restaurants in Las Vegas.
Concepted by Chef Bradley Manchester, time spent staging in San Francisco’s Chinatown not promoted but used to refine skills and understand traditions, CHĪ offers a wide variety of traditional dishes plus several innovative ideas all made from scratch in a brand new kitchen.
Decorated to reminisce of Asian alleyways, though Private Dining Rooms and Bar Seating are also available, CHĪ’s menu ranges from Buns to Noodles made on site, the former fluffy but generously loaded with fatty Pork, Greens and Peanuts.
Coating Calamari with Salt, Pepper and Garlic, or Pork Ribs in tangy Sauce plus Scallions, Dumplings shine whether resting in vibrant Chili Sauce or pan-seared in the form of springy Pork and Shrimp Leek Cakes.
Just $11 for Curry Puffs in flaky golden Pastry, a bargain among bargains since many of the dishes from Chef Manchester and team are priced similar to mom n’ pop spots along Spring Mountain, Oxtail Soup arrived split for five with great depth of flavor created by Stock braised all day including a starter from old batches.
Doing justice to Mongolian Beef, plus BBQ Fried Rice that sees sliced Pork on top plus bits mixed in, “Charred Green Beans” come hard with Garlic while “Kung Pao Chicken Noodles” eat a lot like Dan Dan elsewhere aside from the alternative Protein.
Not listing Desserts on the website or bill of Fare, CHĪ’s Egg Custard Tart a bit flaccid compared to many but propped up by delectable Berry Cream, Chinese Donuts come in a takeout box with Granulated Sugar and hints of Citrus coating the fluffy and oilless base.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: An unexpected stunner built from the ground up CHĪ Asian Kitchen walks a fine line between traditional and modern, its success thus far a result of fair pricing plus the sort of effort rarely exerted by a casual ethnic eatery on The Strip.
Calamansi Funfetti Cookies – Calamansi, Rainbow Sprinkles, White Chocolate Chips, Butterscotch Chips
Ube Velvet Cookies – Ube Jam, Cashews, Milk Chocolate Chips, White Chocolate Chips
Red Velvet Cookies – White Chocolate Chips
Chocolate Chip Walnut Cookies – Milk Chocolate Chips, Walnuts
Classic Ensaymada – Cheese
Ube Ensaymada – Ube Cheese
Young Coconut Pie – Young Coconut Meat, Custard, Coconut Streusel, Butter Crust
Calamansi Pie – Calamansi Custard, Meringue, Butter Crust
Named after a popular crop in the Philippines, and a favorite snack of Chef Ramir Bolanos DeCastro, Purple Potato unfortunately shut its doors in the middle of 2019, the closure after just 21 months largely a result of location rather than Food as the healthy Bowls and quick-casual Sandwiches were almost universally well-received.
Now three years older and wiser, COVID-19 having entirely reshaped an Off-Strip dining scene that Chef Ramir helped to initiate with Yonaka in early 2013, Purple Potato marches on as a bakery at 6370 W Flamingo Rd #20 featuring Donuts, Cookies, Ube-based treats and Filipino Pastries.
Previously offered for delivery or takeout only, but now brick and mortar with pre-orders available online, it was Tuesday that nine items were delivered, Savories skipped in favor of recently-added Ensaymada featuring a cloud-like base and Ube or Cheese Topping.
Scaling back “Monster Cookies” to approximately 4”, Calamansi Funfetti featuring a taste not dissimilar to Key Lime Pie, Ube and Red Velvet Cookies feature a crisp rim with molten center while Chocolate Chip Walnut is more traditional but no less enjoyable.
Never actually gone from the local food scene, the rebranding of Yonaka and Purple Potato followed by a consulting gig at McCarran, Chef DeCastro’s current lineup continues with Donuts, this day featuring a dozen varieties offering a delicate crumb and fillings ranging from Flan to Strawberry or Ube Cream beneath Ube Polvoron.
Not forgetting Pie, fans of Coconut should head straight for lavish Young Coconut while those who favor Lemon Meringue will find something better in Purple Potato’s Calamansi atop an all-Butter Crust beneath airy sweetened Egg Whites.
FIVE STARS: Unlikely to be stumbled upon inside Phoenix Plaza the success of Purple Potato Bakery will depend largely on word of mouth, and based on a handful of visits it is safe to say Chef Ramir Bolanos DeCastro’s Desserts are better than ever with no lack of creativity.
Described as a “love letter” to Chicken Half Bird is the newest culinary concept from Chef Brian Howard, the man whose Sparrow + Wolf helped elevate Spring Mountain now focusing on a more casual Restaurant without sacrificing in terms of technique or complexity.
Opened in August to raves from (their words) “Cool Food Kids,” though the location at the end of a constantly-crowded plaza has thus far delayed an on-site visit by this writer, it was via catering that Chef Howard chose to send a smattering of menu offerings on Friday with delivery both professional and timely.
Offering “whatever Chicken you’re craving,” in this case omitting Rotisserie Birds in favor of fried “Nuggs” and Sandwiches, Half Bird immediately shows good branding in terms of packaging and nomenclature – the bite-sized Poultry moist with good spicing even before being plunged into one of seven housemade Sauces.
Comparable to Big Chicken in scope and price, though the source of Half Bird’s Birds is not promoted, Sandwiches see Howard and team coat Breasts delicately before placing them on housemade Potato Rolls, “Spring Mountain Hot Chicken” tingling thanks to Sichuan Peppercorn while “Classic” polarized audiences via Cheese and sweet Mayo.
Beta-testing Pot Pie Bao on the group, texture on point but the interior in need of seasoning, Sides feature big flavors but may not be for everyone as Broccoli eats akin to Garlic confit and Brix’s Mac ‘n Cheese has a soupy consistency outside of crispy bits of Canned Meat.
Better off with Fries, slow-cooked Rotisserie Potatoes roasted in the Chicken Fat as crispy as one can hope (and even better ladled with “Umami Gravy,”) Dessert is singular but mighty in the form of crispy-rimmed, soft-centered Chocolate Chunk Cookies flecked with Sea Salt.
THREE STARS: Based on catering alone Half Bird checks all the boxes in terms of customer service plus branding, but across this order seems best when focusing on simplicity rather than more creative flavors where “a Level Up from the Rest!” seems to obscure rather than enhance otherwise skilled cooking. An in-person visit to try the Rotisserie will need to occur for further comment.
RECOMMENDED: Nuggs, Spring Mountain Hot Chicken Sandwich, Gravy Fries, Chocolate Chunk Cookies.
AVOID: Broccoli, Classic Fried Chicken Sandwich.
TIP: Open Sunday through Thursday from 11:00am to 9:00pm, Friday & Saturday 11:00am until 2:00am.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Some say the best Restaurants are those that a guest wants to revisit even before leaving, and over the course of thirty-one meals served across seven years Bardot Brasserie has redefined “the best,” not only in terms of Food but setting and service that all continue to shine under the direction of Chef Joe Cadina.
Less crowded for dinner than brunch it was at noon on Wednesday that Aria’s second floor was found lively, a familiar front-of-house greeting four diners who were seated comfortably at a table in the center of all the action.
Still going strong, no small feat in a city with such diversity of options, it was with confirmation of no allergies or intolerances that Carte Blanche was deferred to a team that has earned unwavering trust, the city’s best Baguette arriving first with a delicate crumb beneath crackling exterior.
Served at a careful pace, Chef Cadina’s recent shift from International Smoke to take over for Nick Dugan seeing ideas from each presented, course one featured a familiar trio of shared Appetizers including Deviled Eggs with Caviar plus ground-to-order Tartare that has wowed diners since day and a plus-size version of Michael Mina’s famous Caviar Parfait.
Continuing with four additional Appetizers, Pâté Grand-Mére and Smoked Sturgeon Rillettes each highlighting classic techniques, it seems hard to believe that a Restaurant doing such volume makes time to plate Salads so elegant as the all-new Duck a l’Orange with Remoulade.
Always doing something seasonal with Foie Gras, currently a classic pairing of Apples and Calvados, Mussels are brightened Pernod plus Espelette Aioli prior to Beef Short Rib that is everything Pot Roast aspires to be.
Served Steak for the first time in a while at Bardot, Prime Beef aged on the Bone never a bad idea, those seeking something lighter should strongly consider Trout Amandine that sees Passion Fruit add subtle tartness to classic Brown Butter.
Nearly too full for Dessert, but only nearly, Bardot’s Macaron remains a must for Chocolate lovers while new or returning items include Espresso Creme Brulee, Apple Tart Tatin and a seasonal Mille-Feuille with Pumpkin Custard.
FIVE STARS: Having repeatedly challenged fellow gourmands to name a better Bistro, Brasserie or Café in North America than Bardot none have yet stood up to the task, and while some may believe that a Restaurant doing big numbers cannot possibly compete with a place that seats fifty I’ll simply say I’ve done the legwork and Bardot can. That Chef Smith, Dugan and now Cadina can maintain such quality at that volume speaks…well…volumes.
RECOMMENDED: Pâté Grand-Mére, Duck a l’Orange Salad, Steak Tartare, Michael Mina’s Caviar Parfait, Pan Roasted Foie Gras, Apple Tarte Tatin, Chocolate Macaron, Mille-Feuille.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Follow @bardot_lv for specials.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
