Mama’s Margarita – Cimarron Blanco, Orange Cordial, Lime, Salt Rim / Palomita – Casamigos Mezcal, Hibiscus Syrup, Grapefruit, Lime, Watermelon-Hibiscus Agua Fresca Cerveza, Hibiscus Salt Rim
Valley Mule – Fortaleza Blanco, Ginger Syrup, Lime, Soda, Mint
“Curated by mezcalera Bricia Lopez, Mama Rabbit is an ode to mezcals and tequilas from across Mexico. Mama Rabbit takes its name from Mayahuel, the goddess of agave and fertility. Mayahuel was the mother of 400 rabbits that she nourished with mezcal and tequila, and thus Mama Rabbit was born. The brightly decorated 4,400 square foot space features a large double-sided bar, multiple rooms, live entertainment, roaming margarita carts and Las Vegas’ largest agave-based spirits selection hand-selected by Lopez, coined the “Oaxacan Princess” by the late Jonathan Gold of The Los Angeles Times. Serving a menu of tequilas, mezcals, signature craft cocktails and light bites, Mama Rabbit invites you to wander into the world of Oaxaca.”
Officially opening tomorrow, Mama Rabbit bills itself as an ode to Mezcals and tequilas from across Mexico, and thanks to options available at in wide range of prices plus a killer sound system the large space seems poised for success based on a brief look Saturday.
Certainly not an expert on the topic, all three drinks were very well balanced and the sort of thing that could easily gt lightweights into trouble.
N/A: Impossible to fairly evaluate from a “Friends & Family” event, Mama Rabbit looks and sounds great with a location well suited for guests taking in an event at Park MGM Theater or T-Mobile Arena.
RECOMMENDED: Palomita, Valley Mule.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: 5:00PM till Midight Sunday through Tuesday, and until 3:00am Wednesday through Saturday.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Pistachio Macaron, Raspberry Macaron, Cassis Pate de Fruit, Coffee Macaron
Hazelnut Milk Chocolate Truffle, Nougat Dark Chocolate Truffle
Rarely visited during Summer, the only real reason being a predilection for Truffle season and special occasions that occur during Autumn and Winter, it was under unexpected circumstances that a table was booked at Le Cirque on Saturday, GM Ivo Angelov’s final day before moving to Wynn a bittersweet situation for longtime visitors but at the same time an exciting new opportunity for the man who guided Bellagio’s crown jewel to Forbes 5-Star status.
In many ways a night like any other, Mr. Angelov only making his departure public that morning, it was with warm greetings in the foyer that diners found their favorite booth waiting, Carte Blanche as always the only correct choice and Le Framboise once again proving its mettle with housemade Raspberry Puree set afloat on brisk bubbles.
Always a mix of old and new, smoked Salmon beneath its creamy cap opening the palate to seven savories that would follow, it was in the form of a Salad that “Heirloom Tomato Fantasy” attested to skilled hands and quality sourcing, each bite a little different than the last with the Pickled Quail Egg and Cheese each memorable on their own but more-so for their contribution to the whole.
Trying to go easy on Bread, always a challenge when Butter from Bordier is involved, course two featured creamy Rice topped in Pine Nuts and Truffles, Australia not Dordogne Périgord though the aroma is still prominent while a real taste of France arrived next featuring sautéed Foie Gras amidst Wild Strawberries and tangy Meyer Lemons.
Fond of the Liver from a visit in May, the same true of Chef Alan Mardonovich’s Langoustine resting in Caviar and Butter, it was traveling back to Daniel Boulud’s earliest days in New York that Sea Bass was served, the Pinot Noir Verjus never growing old though a new dish of Dover Sole a la Grenobloise was no slouch itself thanks to finely chopped Ratatouille and velvety Potatoes.
Happy to see Chef Mardonovich arrive tableside, he too departing Le Cirque soon, it was as Authentic Kobe Beef was described that Truffles were shaved, the fleeting aroma soon followed by beautifully marbled Ribeye and Goat Cheese Pudding plus a spoonful of Bordelaise.
Cleansing the palate with Blood Orange Sorbet, two Le Cirque classics and a seasonal Peach Parfait serving as Dessert, it was from an all-new box that Mignardises were selected followed by take-home Chocolates and a “Bon Voyage” to two men whose tireless commitment to excellence will surely see them taking their respective new Restaurants to previously unseen heights.
FIVE STARS: When I first visited Le Cirque in 2008 I’d been saving for months to afford that trip to Las Vegas, yet from entry until exit every moment was justified thanks to Ivo and his staff. At that time I’d never even considered living in Las Vegas, but 6 years later nearing my first anniversary as a Nevada resident the experience was precisely the same. Now, eighteen visits later, it was on Mr. Angelov’s final day as GM that Liset and I sat down one more for a night of luxury overseen by a true legend and someone I’m happy to call a friend.
TIP: Although Walk-ins are accommodated as best possible Le Cirque’s small size and dedicated clientele make reservations strongly recommended, particularly when Alba Truffle season rolls around in late-September and October.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Born in Burbank, and brought to Las Vegas Boulevard by the folks behind Morels French Steakhouse & Bistro, it was early August that the Strip finally began brewing once again, the opening of Trustworthy Brewing Company filling an enormous build-out inside the Palazzo’s Grand Canal Shoppes where Cole Haan, I Heart Burgers and more once stood.
Capable of seating more than four hundred, and soon to start producing some 1150 gallons of Suds from tanks inside a specially-designed room that spares no expense, it was shortly after 11:30am that five guests were welcomed at the hostess podium, a website then suggesting 4pm opening hours likely responsible for limited patronage that centered around the Bar.
Offering tables, booths, event space and a PDR, the latter with a mural of Bill Murray circa Ghostbusters, it was after greetings from the former GM of TAP at MGM Grand that seating was selected, the limited number of televisions an oversight on college football’s opening week, but explained by the fact that Palazzo’s second and third floor are only wired for Cox cable and thus unable to receive DirectTV or sports packages such as NFL Sunday Ticket.
Built with “Fun” as the #1 core-value, several styles of Beer with quirky names poured throughout a space still-incomplete but already featuring Skee Ball, it was alongside Cocktails and $15 flights that Appetizers arrived, Rihanna playing overhead as guests munched on crunchy Pig Skins dusted with dueling Condiments plus fairly basic Spinach & Artichoke Dip and Deviled Eggs that graciously limit the Mustard and instead focus on Herbs and crispy peppered Bacon.
Built to be an eye-catcher, bright blues and reds coating walls throughout the breezy main room, it was following Tortilla Chips piled high with housemade Pork Shoulder and vibrant Chile Verde that a Soft Pretzel found nuance in Gruyere Cheese, the large twist acceptable but not on par with others in town despite the fact that Trustworthy Brewing Company’s Housemade Cornbread knows no equal in Sin City thanks to remarkable moisture and subtle sweetness.
Tapping Chefs Lloyd Bansil and Sandra Palomo to oversee the kitchen, and building a menu around Barbeque that embraces regional styles from Carolina to Texas and St. Louis, those seeking Las Vegas’ best Brisket should consider waiting until Trustworthy’s smokers have logged a bit more time, fattier cuts performing better than lean – though both seem dry in comparison to plump organic Chicken or Ribs shellacked in Sauce and cooked until skin is nearly caramelized over rendered fat and flesh.
Impressed by housemade Pickles and Sauces, the Bourbon-imbued BBQ neither too sugary nor overwhelmed by Tomatoes, it is with no addition toppings needed that Trustworthy’s Burger shines thanks to Grass Fed Beef and Tillamook Cheddar Cheese, the Herb-Crusted Macaroni also a good choice though the Pasta looks more like spirals than Rotelle as advertised.
Not forgetting vegetarians or those who simply want to eat healthy, the Broccolini and Steak Fries faring better than Sprouts that some felt were too acidic, it was following a salad chock-a-block full of Watermelon that Dessert was offered, Chef Palomo’s time at Yardbird clearly evidenced by reference-standard Biscuits that could have used a little more Coulis and Banana Pudding that ups the ante with layers of Fruit and Wafers crowned by torched Marshmallows.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: While it is true that Trustworthy Brewing Company isn’t Las Vegas Boulevard’s first Brewery, it is the only current one, and although more televisions to watch sports would be nice there is already a lot to love about the space, most notably the attentive service and some reference standard items, not to mention Craft Beer flights that offer great value on the dollar.
Emeril’s Banana Cream Pie – Chocolate Shavings and Caramel Sauce / New Orleans Pecan Pie – Shortbread Crust, Caramel Sauce, Vanilla Bean Ice Cream
Bread and Butter Bread Pudding – Whiskey Anglaise
At the beginning of this current “Celebrity Chef” era there were few names on Emeril Lagasse’s level, and although the Massachusetts native who made his name cooking in Louisiana has slowly faded from television his three Las Vegas Restaurants remain popular destinations with Emeril’s New Orleans Fish House now pushing twenty-four years old inside the MGM Grand.
A survivor amidst shutters and re-brands, the space formerly housing Fiamma actually hosting its VIP opening as Ambra Italian Kitchen + Bar on this particular evening, it was promptly at 6:30pm that seven guests sat down inside the elegant space, General Manager Tyler Anderson having already coordinated a menu tallying approximately $90 per guest before tax, tip and Drinks.
Offering excellent customer service across two-and-a-half hours, Soft Drinks and Cocktails including the seductively sweet Razz-Matazz arriving quickly, it was following an Amuse from Chef Ken Lum that dinner got rolling, a big basket of Corn Bread conquering the willpower of many who typically abstain thanks to its moist yet crumbly consistency and light sweetness.
Choosing broadly from New Orleans Fish House’s Dinner and “Mardi Gras Happy Hour” menus, an inspired take on Chicken & Waffles with spicy Wings in an oversized Ice Cream Cone arriving first, it was continuing the theme set by Gochujang/Kochujang that Frog Legs impressed thanks to Creole Glaze, juicy flesh easily slipping from Bone before the first course ended with a generous Wedge Salad and Sweet Corn Hushpuppies topped in tangy Crème Fraiche plus Emeril’s own “Spicy Cajun Caviar.”
Built for celebrating, another table with 50th Birthday balloons having an excellent time beneath high ceilings and soft lighting while Pearl Jam played at modest volume, it was not long before Entrees and Sides flooded the table, Carne Asada Fries and their naked siblings each circulating quickly while Macaroni and Cheese topped by Lobster also made fast friends as a result of more Meat than the $22 price tag might suggest.
Happy to see Lagasse’s legendary Redfish still executed faithfully, seasonal Squashes refreshing the palate between Pecan-crusted bites, suffice it to say that Beer Braised Pork Belly is probably not for those counting calories but thanks to slow roasting and robust Sauce the results are exemplary.
Finishing up housemade Pork Rinds, plus a big scoop of Rice teaming with Shrimp and Sausage, it was saving little space for Dessert that the table was once again filled, seasonal Strawberry Rhubarb Crisp tangy and rustic while individual Pecan Pies and steamy Bread & Butter Bread Pudding battled for top billing with the longtime title-holder for World’s Best Banana Cream Pie.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Although Sin City makes it easy to visit a new Restaurant 365 days per year, Emeril’s New Orleans Fish House remains one of the Strip’s most consistent eateries thanks to big flavors from Chefs Ken Lum and Sean Roe while GM Tyler Anderson leads an excellent FOH.
AVOID: The Amuse was out of place, and Wine mark-ups were deemed steep by those with more knowledge on the subject.
TIP: Happy Hour is usually offered at the bar from 3-6pm and 9:30pm to close, though items were included in this meal as it was pre-arranged and paid for.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Meatball Skillet – Grandma Palmeri’s Meatballs, Naked City Red Sauce, Mozzarella Cheese, Parmesan Cheese
Naked Salad – Iceburg Lettuce, Spinach, Marinated Tomato, Roasted Sweet Peppers, Onion, Mozzarella, Ranch Dressing on the Side, House Vinaigrette on the Side
Pepperoni Pizza – Mozzarella, Tomato Sauce, Cup n’ Char Pepperoni
Guinea Pie – White Garlic Sauce, Spinach, Grandma’s Meatballs, Mozzarella Cheese, Ricotta Cheese
The Rebel Pie – Pepperoni, Sausage, Ham, Salami, Tomato, Fresh Basil, Mozzarella
Brownie & Cookie Tray – Walnut Fudge Brownies, Chocolate Chip Cookies, White Chocolate Macadamia Nut Cookies, Oatmeal Raisin Cookies
Officially the first Restaurant ever utilized to #supportlocal, and reprising their catering role several times since, it was on Wednesday that a combination of factors saw delivery from Naked City Pizza dramatically delayed, though once Robert Chaney finally did arrive the old adage was born out that “good things come to those who wait.”
Now the fourth time utilizing Christopher and Michael Palmeri’s Pizza Shop off-site, visits to one of their five locations even more common considering the brothers’ continuous push to improve, it was after all was set that hungry staff dug-in to Pizzas including a full-sheet topped by Cup n’ Char Pepperoni plus Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives famous Guinea Pie and “The Rebel” featuring four types of Meat.
Never passing on Grandma Palmeri’s Meatballs, dozens of springy orbs bathed in Naked City Red Sauce, it was leaving Salad with housemade Dressing for others that focus fell upon all-new Gnocchi Gratin and Fried Cauliflower, the Dumplings bloomy with Blue but restrained by Cream and Herbs while the latter is not only fresher than “fried” suggests, but also Keto-friendly.
Also offering snappy Sausage, the choice of sweet or spicy left to diners, it was amidst Peppers and Onions that bold flavors proved quite popular with all but the most timid palates while Roasted Garlic Buns helped clear the palate for Cookies and Brownies highlighted by Oatmeal Raisin plus wedges of Fudge riddled with Walnuts.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone there is a reason Naked City Pizza has been serving Sin City for nearly a decade, and so long as Christopher and Michael continue to work as hard as they always have there is little doubt that any order will delight a crowd whether at the Shop or delivered…though ideally on time in the future.
Apple Pie, Pecan Pie, Lemon Cake, Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting
Now a part of Henderson’s dining scene for 3.5 years, and Sin City’s best place for smoked Meat just as long, it was alongside nine friends that dinner was enjoyed at Big B’s Texas BBQ on Saturday, Brian Buechner and Natalia Badzjo’s Food and hospitality continuing to set a high standard while former Marché Bacchus Chef Amanda Hamilton has also joined the team as they prepare for west-side expansion.
Still making new fans to this day, the hand-built interior of 3019 St. Rose Parkway attesting to the sort of work ethic that sees wood driven in from Texas any time supply begins to thin, it was just as the clock struck 6:30pm that an order was placed, Drinks from a Coke Remix Machine plus Beer filled and plenty of share plates plus rolls of paper towels gathered for a table that knew they’d need it.
Playing country tunes overhead and sports on television, the upcoming football season sure to see Big B’s packed with Longhorns and Cowboys, it was on individual trays that Meats, Breads and Sides arrived quickly, the housemade Cornbread particularly soft when warm and delicious whether plain or slathered with Butter, but best when eaten bite for bite with Beans cooked low and slow in Sauce imbued with Brisket.
Not sleeping on Slaw, Potato slices cooked crispy in Peanut Oil, Fried Okra or lightly peppered Mac, but leaving Potato Salad to those who fancy Mustard, it was after letting others select their favorite cuts that Meat took center stage, Big B’s Brisket following Texas protocol with little more than smoke and a bit of seasoning while Beef and Pork Ribs also went quickly with a slight pull of the teeth easily liberating supple Muscle from Bone.
Not a night for calorie counting, though lean Tri-Tip and Turkey make that option available without feeling cheated, it was after a generous portion of Pulled Pork that Dessert arrived, Pecan and Apple Pies excellent despite being made off-site while Chef Hamilton’s new Carrot Cake stands up well to the standard set by Big B’s crumbly and moist Bundt Cake brightened by Citrus.
FIVE STARS: Now with even more time on the smoker and a large volume of patrons, both as essential to good Barbecue as the quality of sourcing and spices, Big B’s offers as comprehensive a list of Meats and Sides as any of Texas’ best while also nailing the execution of each in an environment that feels just as authentic and welcoming in Henderson as it would in Austin, San Antonio or Dallas – another summary statement that warrants repeating.
Croque Rosallie – Paris Ham, Sweet Onion Bechamel, Mozzarella Cheese on Croissant with Simple Salad
Brioche French Toast – Nutella, Whipped Cream, Pure Maple Syrup
Although many love to tout the “cool” Chefs doing more daring food from DTLV to the ‘burbs, there is perhaps no place that shows how far Off Strip dining has come than Rosallie, Jonathan Pluvinet’s re-built 7-Eleven on South Rainbow continuing to outpace every other similar concept and single-handedly redefining French Bakeries in the Valley since August of 2015.
Truly a tale of skill and determination, ‘Le French Café’ since expanding to Florida, it was early Saturday morning that General Manager Christophe was found overseeing the Restaurant on its fourth anniversary, no special celebration but business as usual from a space more welcoming now than ever with a menu that continues to grow.
Located at 6090 South Rainbow Boulevard, letters on the façade beginning to peel from Southern Nevada’s perpetual sun, it was almost entirely of old favorites that Breakfast was comprised, the lone novelty a Chocolate Chip Cookie with crisp rim and chewy center given a boost by crunchy Chocolate Pearls.
Still doing steady business during Sin City’s slow season, several regulars making their way through and greeted by name, it was with house-blended Coffee and eight Pastries that Breakfast got started, Jonathan’s Palmier shattering with Sugar and awash with Butter while an Apple Croustade and Apricot Danish each feature a lot of Fresh Fruit amidst flaky, laminated layers.
Offering a small library and private room with hand built furniture, both welcoming guests to sit and stay a while, it was after cracking the Crust of an individually sized Tart that similar flavors were found amidst a peerless Croissant, Rosallie’s best item with or without Raspberries arguably without equal stateside while Bostock labeled as “Blueberry Brioche” sees Christophe’s time at Jean-Philippe shine through using the same Loaf he created for Jean Georges Steakhouse.
Not about to leave without more Brioche, three golden slices baked and topped with Nutella plus pure Maple Syrup, those seeking something savory should not forgo the Croque Rosallie featuring one of those faultless Croissants topped with imported Ham, Housemade Bechamel and Mozzarella Cheese.
FIVE STARS: Always a case of the best getting better, this visit to the corner of Rainbow Boulevard and Patrick Lane finding Le French Café still pushing as it enters year five, Rosallie remains a cozy respite with the sort of environment, service and Cuisine one simply doesn’t find many places these days.
TIP: Follow @rosallielefrenchcafe on Social Media for specials at both locations, and for those who can’t make it in consider online orders by Yelp! or Grubhub.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Opened in February 2017, and doing big numbers despite limited seating ever since, it was as a party of three that seats were taken at Oyster Bar Friday evening, a dozen freshly shucked Bivalves and eight menu selections attesting to quality sourcing plus a hands-on approach that sees everything including Bread and Pasta made in The Hard Rock Hotel & Casino kitchens.
Originally concepted by Marcus O’Brien and Derek Litzinger, but now under the direction of Executive Chef Bradley Manchester and his team soon to be part of Virgin Hotels, it is abutting the gaming floor that guests will find a U-shaped bar still harboring lots of polish, a team of four including one waitress tending to everything in plain view while Hard Rock’s mix of old and new music plays at a comfortable volume overhead.
Focused on Raw Bar Standards and Pan Roasts, plus several twists on Seafood classics, it was following Beverages and six Oysters from each coast that two generously portioned Crab Cakes arrived next to housemade Slaw and Aioli, an array of Herbs complimenting sweet Meat well while Calamari “Fries” see Cephalopod cooked tender and brightened by Sriracha and Soy with textured added by Peanuts.
Told by one of Oyster Bar’s Chefs that Roasted P.E.I. Mussels were “life changing,” a bit of hyperbole though the briny Broth built from Butter and Beer with Licorice-notes did necessitate a second order of Garlic Bread to sop up all the goodness, it is using Branzino that Hard Rock’s Fish & Chips outpaces many while Malt Vinegar Aioli with a texture like Mayonnaise serves double duty as dip for Fries and an alternative to the classic brown liquid.
Moving on to Pan Roast, this and two additional plates divided into thirds by staff, suffice it to say that good Seafood makes a big difference in any setting and that is precisely what is offered whether one selects Tomatoes with Cream and Brandy over Rice, San Francisco Fish Soup or garlicky Shrimp with ribbons of Pasta.
Not a space doing big volume for Dessert, though sweets from Pastry Chef Mickey Harden are available by request, it is taking notes from Hershey’s 1914 classic that Heath Bar Crunch Cake performs beautifully, while on this particular evening Triple Vanilla Cupcakes also made it fairly safe to assume Mickey makes an outstanding Wedding Cake.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Located near the doors and proper ventilation, the gaming floor’s smoke imperceptible from any of the high-backed, comfortable seats, Oyster Bar at Hard Rock Hotel & Casino continues to outperform expectations thanks to quality ingredients, fair prices and a no-shortcuts approach that sees everything including Bread and Pasta made in house.
RECOMMENDED: Pan Roasted P.E.I. Mussels, Fish & Chips, All-In Pan Roast, Shrimp Scampi, Heath Bar Crunch Cake.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Sunday – Thursday 5:00PM – 11:00PM, Friday – Saturday 11:00AM – 1:00AM. Seating is first come, first serve and there is likely to be a wait during peak hours.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Located at 1040 East Flamingo Road, an area dense with Indian Restaurants and UNLV students, it was late 2017 that owner Ulzan Mehta merged India Oven and India Masala to become India Oven Masala Bar & Grill, the interior one of Las Vegas’ most elegant and the combination of dishes representing North and South India offering a great deal of diversity.
Not far from Maryland Parkway and the National Atomic Testing Museum, a $12.99 daily Lunch Buffet expectedly popular with nearly fifty items on rotation, it was to #supportlocal that catering was requested across town on Thursday, the spread for 25 guests arriving on-time, temperature appropriate and complete with all seviceware, plates and utensils.
Happy to let the accountant-turned-cook concoct a menu, two previous experiences pleasing a variety of guests, it was with bold smells perfuming the office that attendees gathered plates and perused options before selecting, familiar items such as Chicken Biryani, fluffy Naan and Kababs predictably going first while Samosas and Pakora were fondly remembered from earlier this year and appropriately consumed with one of three Chutneys, Tamarind again the most popular though spicy Coconut also had its fans.
Surprising many with Vegetable Korma, some tasting it accidentally when looking for fan-favorite Butter Chicken and subsequently scooping up seconds, Goat Curry remains a tough sell with all but Indians and the adventurous while Gulab Jamun made on-site outperforms many in terms of texture, as does Gajar Halwa from Mr. Mehta’s mother with added crunchiness created by extra cooking time to caramelize the edges.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone there are only a few Indian Restaurants in town that offer the breadth and quality to please a diverse staff, and on Thursday Ulzan Mehta and his team at India Oven Masala Bar & Grill outperformed expectations once again with old favorites and novelties alike.
TIP: Proud to offer catering as well as a 10% discount to UNLV students, those simply looking for small order delivery will be glad to know the website also offers service by BItesquad
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Coconut Mousse, Pineapple, Coconut Lime Granita, Nata de Coco
Guava, Cream Cheese, White Chocolate
Having never seen a single episode of Top Chef the name Mei Lin meant little when making reservations at Nightshade, a lack of familiarity with the Chef or her televised persona thereby allowing all of Sunday night’s focus to fall on the elegant Arts District space and diversity of flavors presented by well-educated servers.
Now a part of Downtown Los Angeles since the start of 2019, a period long enough to iron out wrinkles while remaining white hot, it was after locating the entrance on East 3rd Street that five guests were offered kitchen-side seats, Chef Lin already hard at work before doors even opened as light from outside illuminated hardwood floors, plants and beige fabrics.
Relying on no single culture while building a menu from California’s bounty, Mole listed above Curry and Schnitzel served with an entirely new Condiment called “Gwaimei,” it was after perusing Drinks listed by number that a Mocktail of Carrots, Citrus and Ancho Bitters was selected, subtle heat mellowed by Pineapple Froth that paired well to Pork Rinds dusted in Lemon Grass and Chili which found their balance in Coconut Dip with Trout Roe.
Frequently changing the menu since day one, Crab Porridge replaced by Congee intended to be mixed by guests with spicy XO Sauce on the side, it was concluding course one that two Vegetarian options impressed, crinkly Potatoes with smoky Strawberries a textural masterpiece thanks to Seeds and Grains while various types of Carrots shined thanks to Tamarind and Coconut in the shape of a Pie wedge.
Moving onward to Meat and Pasta, a $32 plate of Corn-filled Dumpling questionably priced in terms of quality and quantity, guests looking to share would be well-advised to order the aforementioned fried Pork, easily twelve ounces pounded thin and brightened by Five Spice while Salad served on its side mixes savory and sweet with something creamy to cleanse the palate between bites.
Unable to pass on Mei’s Instagram-famous Lasagna, the flavor of Mapo Tofu faithfully recreated but not so hot as to dissuade two diners who typically avoid Sichuan Cuisine, it was following Shrimp Paste on Toast in fragrant yellow Curry that Desserts took center stage, Pastry Chef Max Boonthanakit’s “Almond Sorbet, Mandarin Ice” offering stunning visuals and a flavor reminiscent of Creamsicles but tilted more towards Citrus.
Told that Boonthanakit will soon be departing Nightshade, and thus creating an impetus to go all-in, it was on the heels of a frozen Soufflé that housemade Tofu reminisced of both Panna Cotta and Chia Pudding, his Coconut Mousse highlighting tropical flavors without a lot of Sugar while monochromatic “Guava, Cream Cheese, White Chocolate” earns all the praise it has received thanks to variable consistency from layer-to-layer with no two bites the same.
Samples: Brambleberry Crisp, Gooey Butter Cake, Goat Cheese with Red Cherries, Nectar Honeycomb, Boston Cream Pie
Cream Puff, Sun Popped Corn, Sugar Cone
From humble beginnings in the North Market to calculated nationwide expansion Jeni’s will always hold a special place in the heart of this Buckeye, every visit since senior year of college offering something new and delicious and on this summer Sunday highlighted by semi-sweet Pop Corn atop a scoop reminiscing of Columbus’ German Village and the oversized Cream Puff served at Schmidt’s Sausage Haus.
Imported from Brooklyn, and making a home in Los Feliz since October of 2018, Ample Hills Creamery features the ideas of Jackie Cuscuna and Brian Smith, a couple who quit their day-jobs to make Ice Cream and have followed that passion with undeniable success thanks to a hands-on approach that sees not only Bases made in small batches but Mix-ins baked from all natural Ingredients rather than being bought.
Born in 2011, now with fifteen locations including Southern California as well as Florida, it is before even entering 1824 Hillhurst Avenue that guests will notice an atmosphere welcoming all faiths and ages, the pride flag flying not far from piñata while the interior features a private dining room plus children’s books alongside whimsical drawings of farm animals.
Bucking the trend of pure flavors for some zany combinations that succeed as a result of great Ingredients without reliance on commercial additives, ideas based on Marvel Superheroes part of Ample Hills’ summer collection, it was after several sizable samples that decisions were made, similar Brown Sugar Cinnamon Ice Creams made completely unique by housemade Lace Cookies in one case and Pecan Brittle in the other.
Also tempted by Midwest-focused “Corn to Run” and Horchata-esque “Beneath Las Estrellas,” it was only the availability of sliced Butter Cake that made the Ice Cream version superfluous, and much like the Vanilla Batter Cone Cuscuna and Smith’s ode to St. Louis is highly recommended thanks to intense sweetness kept in check by Cream Cheese and buttery Crust.
Chicken ‘n Rice Porridge, Celery, Poached Egg, Ginger, Calamansi Shmaltz
When Charles Olalia originally transitioned away from his top toque at Patina to open up Rice Bar it was evident that the best was yet to come, and with the opening of Ma’am Sir the former fine dining Chef shows a true gift for bringing exotic flavors to Silver Lake without straying *too* far from the source material.
Serving guests since June of 2018, and receiving somewhat mixed reviews thanks to an approach that eschews “authenticity” in favor of making Filipino flavors accessible to the masses, it was at the start of Sunday Brunch that four diners sat down inside 4330 Sunset Boulevard, vines creeping down from ceilings adding on to Ma’am Sir’s bold color scheme while additionally softening the volume of music plus voices of a soon-packed house.
Pleasant and well informed in terms of service, with prices higher than “mom n’ pop” spots but less than the typical upscale Los Angeles Brunch, it was after perusing Cocktails that the decision was made to invest $6 in Cold Brew mixed with sweet young Coconut, the concoction not unlike Cuban Cafe con Leche and a pleasant pairing to housemade Bread offered with Ube Butter or the small stack of Pandan Pancakes served as part of the “Ma’am Sir Brunch Plate.”
Briefly seeing Chef Olalia touch tables before things got busy, nearly every seat filled by 11:30am, it is in the style of Hawaiian Mochi that Banana Bibingka continued an early parade of sweetness, the “Avocado Grilled Cheese” to follow unfortunately overwrought with Mustard and Pepper Jam while toasted Milk Bread was far better utilized to make “Coconut Toast” that eats a lot like Singapore’s Kaya without the Egg thanks to Indonesian Soy Sauce.
Completing the Brunch Plate with a generous serving of Garlic Rice, snappy housemade Longganisa plus two Fried Eggs and Pickles, it was here that Ma’am Sir’s famous Lumpia would arrive beneath an extra $5 of Uni, the Urchin Gonads mostly adding Salt to something already delicious while gelatinous Pichi Pichi fell a bit flat in terms of flavor save for that of dried Coconut.
Not attempting to replicate Bad Saint in Washington D.C., but instead carving a path that focuses on making an entire island nation’s Food accessible to diners who might otherwise have never given it a chance, it is playing off Congee that Charles briefly returns to Rice Bar with undeniable success, each grain evenly cooked without turning mushy and no two spoonfuls alike thanks to bits of Poultry and Celery perfumed by Ginger and slick with Egg Yolk plus Shmaltz.
Mimosa Cake Donut with Brut Champagne Glaze and Candied Orange Zest
Lemon Poppy Buttermilk Old Fashion Donut
Chocolate Almond Ganache Raised Donut
Chocolate Buttermilk Old Fashion Donut
First discovered in February of 2013, a trip to Portland that would end up featuring visits on three consecutive days to their lone location downtown, it can safely be said that Blue Star Donuts has grown tremendously, the brand now featuring eleven storefronts stretching from PDX Airport to Manhattan Beach California.
Known for organic Ingredients and an artisan approach, Owner/CEO Katie Poppe having gone on to win several awards for Blue Star and additional dining concepts, it was while perusing homes in Silver Lake that the location on Sunset Boulevard took center stage, an 8:00am arrival finding several selections still warm to touch and service quiet yet pleasant.
Certainly not cheap, but justifying an average $4.30 per round with local sourcing and quality craftsmanship, it is easy to tell just by looking that Blue Star’s Brioche base is given adequate time to develop, and whether filled with housemade Custard or Citrus Curd the crumb remains soft and springy with the faintest hint of Yeast.
Often Vegan-friendly, but leaving Gluten free options to other companies throughout the city, it is amongst several Cake Donuts that Blue Star continues to show well, one seasonal choice featuring Orange Zest and Champagne Glaze not far off from its namesake Cocktail while Lemon and Poppy Seeds compliment the Buttermilk Old Fashion beautifully.
Finishing strong with Chocolate, no artificial flavors or preservatives compromising Dark Chocolate made from scratch with 100% Natural Cocoa Powder, suffice it to say that Marcona Almonds and thick Ganache create quite a pair while the Old Fashion infused with French Dark Chocolate is given added emphasis by fragrant Bergamot Tea Glaze.
When Jason Kaplan stepped away from his management position at Gjelina Take Away it was only a matter of time before Maury’s became reality, and since moving from Smorgasburg to Silver Lake his cozy new spot featuring “Bagels & Appetizing” has received nothing but praise from Angelinos.
Quickly becoming a neighborhood staple just four months since opening on Bellevue Avenue, the daily brick and mortar just off US101 far more conducive to business than Saturdays inside Dinosaur Coffee and Sundays at the Hollywood Farmers Market, it is beginning at 7:00am that doors open to a stream of customers, everything from young hipsters to old couples from New York and a “dog whisperer” with several animals in-tow stopping by to get their Sunday morning fix.
Not only about Bagels, but also offering housemade Cookies, local Halva plus Schmears, Loaves and Lox, it was following a brief wait that an order was placed, limited outdoor seating thankfully available and an unwrapped bag first finding two styles of Rugelach still warm but unfortunately quite tiny at $1 per piece.
Saving additional sweets for later, approximately five minutes separating payment from delivery of two toasted Sesame Seed Bagels plus one simply sliced and dusted with Za’atar, those seeking Carbs with some tooth will find plenty to like about both “skin” and center, a hearty tug required to separate mouthfuls that comes generously topped with Cream Cheese for $1 or Butter at no additional charge.
Next biting into Challah that maintains a springy crumb even when toasted, the advertised Plum Jam unannouncedly substituted by Strawberry, it was by way of savory Sesame that Maury’s looked to reinvent Black & White Cookies with mixed results while a Poppy Chocolate Chip round was more or less faultless beneath flecks of Salt.
Rose Petal Pie with Raspberry, Plum, Strawberry, Rose, Hibiscus Gelatin, Pretzel Crust
Born and raised lower-middle class in Ohio, a typical family night out at Bob Evans with Olive Garden or Red Lobster saved for “special occasions” until after college, it was with great interest that the opening of Birdie G’s was watched from a distance, and having now visited it is difficult to separate memories of Midwest “Supper” nearly two decades ago from what Chef Jeremy Fox has created in Southern California.
Described as “celebrating regional American cookery and timeless family recipes,” with additional charm arriving by way of Chef Fox naming a restaurant fueled by Cleveland-roots after his own daughter, it is along quiet Michigan Avenue that guests will notice the valet stand on approach, a relative dearth of nearby parking spots hiding the fact that at 6:45pm on Saturday the 150+ seat space from Rustic Canyon Family was filled to capacity.
Tapping the “spirit of supper clubs,” and using Zoe Nathan and Josh Loeb’s backing to build an indoor-outdoor space with high energy from bar to open kitchen, it was after confirming reservations that guests were led to a large booth on the Birdie G’s front side, the only real issue all night being that of decibels amplified by low ceilings and folks stacked three-deep for drinks.
Still red-hot just two months since opening, Jeremy’s prior work at Rustic Canyon and book “On Vegetables” giving guests only a glimpse of the ideas created to fill a menu that features Jewish inspired riffs on dishes commonly served around the Great Lakes, it was after chuckling over Soft Drinks such as Vernors and Faygo that thirteen items followed, the sub-$300 total (divided by five) a veritable bargain considering both Ingredient quality and the cost of Santa Monica real estate.
Suggested as a place “where fine Food and good people meet,” most items designed for sharing but certainly not tapas or ‘small plates,’ it was beginning with orbs of Buckwheat topped in Chicken Fat that guests were put on notice of big flavors to follow, Cornbread soon shining at half the price of Tallula’s similarly presented Pancake while “Sloppy Jeremy” Texas Toast hit heavy with Horseradish that finds balance in Beef slow-cooked with Strawberries.
Happy to see “Hangtown Fry” on a menu for the first time in years, the Gold Rush staple reinvented with Matzo Brei ironically served beneath Shellfish and Pork, it is passing on Potatoes that Mushrooms instead come “loaded” with Bacon, Créme Fraîche and Cheddar while Saturday’s “Blue Plate” Beef Stroganoff upgrades any previously tasted version thanks to tender Sirloin and springy housemade Noodles plus rich Sauce and crispy bits on top.
Polarizing with Noodle Kugel, those unfamiliar with the Jewish Casserole finding its sweetness off-putting while others marveled at a diversity of textures punctuated by cracked nuts and housemade Tomato Jam, it seemed only appropriate to order Chef Fox’s Mixed Grill of Summer Vegetables next, the Vegan “Bagna Cauda” largely indistinguishable from that made with Anchovies while tender Semolina Gnocchi outpaced Heroic Deli & Wine Bar’s Pasta with Pesto in terms of taste, structure and portion for the same $20 price.
Not about to skip Dessert, though the evening’s special Crème Brûlée Pie had unfortunately sold out by 8:00pm, it was instead with Bundt Cake inspired by Sticky Toffee Pudding that sweets got started, a quick taste of bake-sale-style Bark leading to Chocolate Layer Cake brightened by Malt Frosting and “World Famous” Rose Petal Pie that may seem like hyperbole now, though likely to achieve such lofty standing once enough people taste all its jiggly Fruit suspended in floral Gelatin atop lightly salted Crust.
Although the number of self-proclaimed “foodies” has grown tremendously over the past decade there are few who can rival Jeffrey Merrihue’s gastronomic exploits, so when the author and former chairman of MOFILM decided to launch Heroic Deli & Wine Bar in Santa Monica it only seemed right to see if travel experience yields expertise in areas such as menu design, ingredient sourcing and customer service.
Opened in December of 2018 at 516 Santa Monica Boulevard, and tapping Executive Chef Barbara Pollastrini to produce day and night menus that range from housemade Chips and Sandwiches to $36 plates of Pasta, it was at the start of Happy Hour that three guests sat adjacent the Wine Bar, some tables still holding evidence of departed guests while reggae played overhead at much too high a volume.
Propping doors open to allow air in from outside, the two-story space nicely designed and highlighted by a piece of art featuring several types of butterflies, it was after declining Wines “rated 90+ points” that decisions were made, only a few other diners at 3:00pm on Saturday ensuring fast service though the quantity of Doordash, Postmates and Uber Eats drivers parading in and out was impossible to ignore.
Sipping Water and a housemade Arnold Palmer, the latter intensely sour but refreshing per those who partook, it was perhaps ten minutes after seating that course one arrived featuring an oversized Rice Ball and “Nonna’s Gnudi,” the former yielding creamy contents and bold flavor beneath its golden-brown exterior while the $16 green orb harkened Saag Paneer with more Salt at nearly double the cost per bite of Marc Vetri’s legendary Spinach Gnocchi.
Aware of Santa Monica’s pricey real estate, while at the same time looking at average ingredient costs and a skeleton staff, it was after a visit from the Italian born Chef that course two again consisted of two items, the $24 “Polpo Croccante” an impressive composition of poached then sautéed Octopus atop fragrant Potatoes while “Triofe al Pesto” was a fair portion for its price, though the Noodles seemed a little undercooked and thus doughy beneath the aromatic blend of Herbs and Cheeses.
Finishing up with Heroic Deli & Wine Bar’s signature item, a Hero dubbed “OMG,” suffice it to say that this should be a go-to for all but vegans or vegetarians thanks to a quintet of Meats stacked high and topped with vibrant Vegetables plus Mustard, Mayo and Truffles, all of it somehow balanced and absolutely delicious inside of crunchy toasted Bread.
Samples – Smoky Road, Abuelita Malted Crunch, Hai Van Pass
The White (Milk Cream, White Rabbit Candies) / Ube Malted Crunch (Malted Milk, Purple Yams) / Aussie Caramel (Dark Caramel Cream, Vegemite) / Pandan Cone
Inspired by travel, and likely firm believers that not all who wander are lost, it was midday that Wanderlust Creamery in Venice was found sparsely populated, a previous visit to the Atwater Village location setting expectations high and the Ice Cream once again excellent, though distracted customer service offering “tastes” so small that Chocolate and Vanilla proved difficult to distinguish compromised the overall experience.
Owned and operated by Jon-Patrick Lopez and Adrienne Borlongan, the former attorney providing financial backing to Ms. Borlongan’s talents fostered in Food Science, guests entering the shop will quickly notice stark design, an expansive footprint with limited seating plus flavors listed with comprehensive notes including Ingredients and cities ranging from “Our Socal Childhood” to Vietnam.
Back to the server, one of three and the only serving guests, it was after dropping two consecutive shavings of Smoky Road on the floor that faint hints of Cocoa were tasted, a touch more bitterness found amidst a Vietnamese Coffee themed speck before finally abandoning hope and simply ordering three half-Scoops on a Young Coconut perfumed Cone for around $8 after tax.
Uncertain when Samples became subject to cost-containment, especially inside an artisan shop with only two additional guests present, it is with good fortune that each flavor selected featured a bold base and well-researched inclusions, “The White” lightly sweet and intensely creamy while Ube Malted Crunch and Aussie Caramel each represented their Island Nation well with a touch of savory emerging then slowly dissipating before the next lick.
Subject to somewhat polarizing social media reviews, it was shortly after 11:00am that three guests entered Tallula’s Restaurant, the beachside space from Rustic Canyon owners Zoe Nathan and Josh Loeb remaining almost entirely empty otherwise throughout the course of a ninety minute Saturday Brunch.
One part seaside shanty, the other an ode to Mexican staples “hecho con amor,” it is amidst colorful wood columns and mosaic carpets bathed in sunlight that guests are seated promptly, the music culturally appropriate and played far lower than what seems to be ‘normal’ in Southern California.
Tapping Jeremy Fox for a menu executed by Chef Saw Naing, the midday spread offered until September 1st replacing dinner Entrees with items such as Pancakes and Chilaquiles, it is from cheerful servers that suggestions come readily, complimentary Chips and Salsa soon attesting to bold flavors and quality Ingredients reflected by sometimes questionable prices.
Assuredly an expensive build-out, its spacious location alongside the Pacific Coast Highway en route to Malibu a far cry from Taco Trucks in Boyle Heights, it was after declining Margaritas in favor of Soft Drinks that a plate of Nachos arrived quickly, the combination of crisp Tortillas and housemade Giardiniera strongly adherent to porcelain thanks to “lots of Cheese” while Chilaquiles offered even greater textural diversity thanks to Black Beans, sliced Vegetables and an Egg cooked Sunnyside Up.
Surprised next by Chicharrones, three enormous Pig Skins shattering beneath spice and Citrus, it was only Tallula’s Tacos that seemed substantially overpriced compared to elsewhere, $9 per two-bites of fairly basic Carne Asada indefensible no matter how good the handmade shells or how exorbitant Nathan and Loeb’s rent.
Back on track with Taquitos, a trio of fried Shells filled with fragrant Potatoes bolstered by Caramelized Onions and tangy Sauce, it was making a quick transition to Dessert that Tallula’s Tres Leches immediately set a high standard, its light floral linger unexpected but welcomed while bite-size Churros and a Cornbread-like skillet Pancake were also quite pleasant save for the latter’s questionable $16 price.
Housemade Granola, Coconut Panna Cotta, Pears, Coconut Milk
Brioche French Toast, Banana, Candied Pecans, Powdered Sugar, Orange Zest, 100% Pure Maple Syrup
Serving El Segundo since 2017, and soon expanding to downtown Los Angeles, it was largely based on location that Two Guns Kitchen was selected for Breakfast on Saturday, a decision unfortunately shared by several families with young children whose non-stop noise echoed about the small space along with off-key singing by a barista who apparently thought he was funny.
Born out of New Zealand Coffee culture in 2011, a pair of expatriates beginning Two Guns Espresso and since expanding to five Cafes plus the Kitchen concept, it is along Main Street that guests will find the latter open early each day, all but high-top seating filled by 7:30 as music from the 80s and 90s played loudly overhead.
Proudly displaying the names of purveyors like Ora King Salmon on a hanging menu, and baking all Pastries on-site, it was with one Latte and a Cold Brew in hand that guests waited patiently for items from the kitchen, the Coffee admittedly excellent with minimal acidity and bright fruitiness while a buttery Muffin was also remarkable thanks to pockets of Golden Raisins juxtaposing cooked Plums.
Less impressed by an Almond Croissant with overly-sweet Cream, and indifferent to a “Cinnamon Roll” that begged for more of its eponymous Ingredient, it was after adding Coconut Milk that had originally been forgotten that Granola became more edible, four small dollops of “Panna Cotta” seemingly just for show while $7.75 French Toast was a certified deal in So Cal, though fairly basic and not something worth going out of one’s way for.
