Located in the former home of the Prince of Württemberg, now Hotel Imperial, Café Imperial Wien reminisces of days past when the likes of Arnold Schönberg and Johannes Brahms made their way over from the Vienna State Opera for Coffee and Cake.
Favored by Austria’s “Wiener Melange” since 1873, the sort of place where foreign visitors and locals equally inhabit seats formerly filled by Sigmund Freud, Breakfast can be ordered Buffet or a la Carte with each well-priced considering both attentive service and refined environs.
Home to an on-site Bakery, their primary business producing three varieties of Imperial Torte, Breads and Charcuterie are on par with other historic Hotels throughout Europe while both Gugelhupf and “The Original” are noteworthy, the former thanks to density and moisture while the eponymous Torte delicately balances soft Chocolate Cream between razor-thin Almonds, Marzipan and Imperial Icing.
Lemon Curd, Pastel de Nata, Peanut but not, Warm Cacao
Warm Madeline
Take Home Gift Seasoning Salt
Located in the luxury Hotel Palais Coburg Restaurant Silvio Nickol fits the fine dining mold in its Tasting Menu format, though white gloves are instead black and gold is replaced by sizable displays of amethyst while plates take chances in terms of taste and constituents.
Trained by Heinz Winkler with Michelin 2* since 2012, global influences backed by peerless Ingredients plus skill, it is once inside the Hotel that guests are checked in and led to an elevator, departure from which leads to crisp linen and impeccable service.
Largely playing host to well-heeled residents, and on this occasion a mother with two Children poorly suited for 150-minutes of Carte Blanche dining, music plays almost imperceptibly as Sparkling Wine is poured to accompany Canapes includin thinly-sliced Buffalo in Buckwheat Tea that is impressive but Curried Sweetbreads in a laser-cut Eggshell even more spectacular.
Baking Bread on-site, wedges of the piping-hot Loaf soon gilded with Butter and herbed Lardo, course one comprised Goose Liver Mousse with Nuts, Flowers and Apples, as delicious as it was attractive while a follow-up of raw Amberjack with crispy Sunchokes, cubed Mango and Caviar was a textural work of art.
Frequently blurring the boundaries of Austrian Cuisine, a Langoustine with Fennel Bouillabaisse but one example, course four saw a small-bite of Pork Tartare precede the prized cut of Pata Negra served across Sauce infused with Soy and Tarragon linking it to Eggplant.
Taking a chance with Catfish atop a complex Sauce both sweet and saline, the result irrefutably striking, a single Raviolo of Duck Confit was quickly followed by rosy red Magret again perfectly Sauced with earth and a hint of Olive that pushed the plate past the sum of its parts.
All fun with the Citrus Palate Cleanser, a smile on the plate quickly transferred to its recipient, Chef Nickol’s Cheese course was nothing short of mesmerizing as Mimolette and Truffle competed for the spotlight atop contrasting tastes, consistencies and temperatures.
Transitioning to Dessert with Styrian Pumpkin Seeds atop a creamy base, not bad but lacking the intrigue of Chef’s other plates, a follow-up of early-Spring Rhubarb performed well on a sour backdrop while Mignardises spanned the palate before ending with a Madeline fresh from the oven.
Crispy ‘Fish Sticks’ of Tiger Trout, Red Currant Aioli, Radish, Pumpkin Seed Oil
Beef Consommé, Semolina Dumpling, Boiled Short Rib, Carrot, Chives
Ragout of Potato-Meadow Herb Salad
Veal Beuscherl with Lung, Heart, Tripe, Chive Dumpling, Majoram
Grilled Pork Cutlet, Chickpeas, Romanesco, Pomelo, Mint
Topaz Apple Strudel, Vanilla Curd
Kaiserschmarrn, Red Currant, Plum Jam
From the family behind 2* Steirereck im Stadtpark Meierei is the more casual offshoot with waterside views, great service and classic recipes created with top-quality Ingredients by the skilled hands of Chef Heinz Reitbauer and staff.
Open at 08h00 on weekdays and an hour later Saturday with three services daily, the menu shifting seasonally, guests entering Meierei will find a similar color palate to the gourmet Restaurant upstairs while a terrace facing Stadtpark illuminates the room through floor-to-ceiling glass.
Alongside the Wienfluss with over 100 matured Cheeses and a bountiful larder, plus Bread from the Steirereck Bakery, lunch for most will occur in three courses, an Appetizer of Beef Consommé nearly so complex as Reitbauer’s previously tasted Wedding Soup while “Fish Sticks” of Trout are crunchy and delicious alone or dragged through creamy Currants.
Overly-generous with portions despite a Bib Gourmand pricepoint, the tally for two under €100 without Alcohol, Entrees include a tender Pork Chop grilled beneath Hummus and fried bits while traditional Veal Beuscherl picks up lots of flavor from Offal that is mellowed by Marjoram and hearty Dumplings.
Encourage to order Streudel fresh from the oven at 13h00, but wise enough to request Kaiserschmarrn as Pork and Veal were served, choosing the better of Meierei’s Desserts comes down to personal preference, though the respective toppings of Housemade Vanilla Curd and Plum Jam should be added liberally.
Historically the Royal Bavarian Court Supplier and Royal Court Confectioner KuK Hofzuckerbäcker L. Heiner dates back to roughly 1840 when Andreas Rabl took over a pre-existing Bakery, the eventual naming after grandson-in-law Ludwig Heiner occurring in 1883 and expansion since occurring into the sixth generation with six storefronts.
Best known for its space on Kaerntner Strasse, home to several Cakes and Confections offered beginning at 08h30, guests are invited to dine-in or order take-out, Heiner’s Topfentorte amongst the Café’s most recognized creations thanks to delicate Quark Mousse between Sponge Layers and a bit of Gelatin.
Happy to order Espresso with everything, the double-shot made from well-sourced Beans is best sipped black, additional Cakes include Hungary’s Esterhazy, named after a former diplomat to Austria featuring Fondant, Apricot Jam and an Almond Meringue far better than that at Aida.
Not about to omit Sacher Torte, in this case a cubed “Sacherwurfel” nearly the width of its Chocolate medallion, both taste and texture are similar to that of Café Sacher’s original version though the shell on all sides expectedly tilts this rendition a bit further towards Cocoa.
Opened by Helmut and Karin Gragger in 1997 at an old mill in Ansfelden near Linz the story of Gragger & Cie is one of rethinking modern practices, Helmut having given up a job in commercial baking to pursue a more natural course focused on organic raw materials mixed by hand and cooked in a wood-burning oven.
Eventually relocated to Vienna, Helmut’s hand-built oven transported to Spiegelgasse 23 where it still burns daily, entering Gragger & Cie rouses memories of days past with loaves lining racks and several Pastries filling the cases up front.
Also championing socially disadvantaged persons with training across four storefronts, the service amongst Vienna’s most friendly, a tasting of Gragger’s goods began with a Cheese-filled Viennoiserie featuring light sweetness before moving on to crispy Zauner Klipferl with Almonds and Breadcrumbs.
Also featuring Almonds in a toothsome Cake, lightly sweetened and perfect with Coffee, Gragger & Cie’s Poppyseed Semolina Cake comes individually portioned and profoundly nuanced while the Nussbeugerl resembles Hungarian Kifles from the Butter-enriched Dough to the ground Walnut filling.
Purporting to produce their Sacher Torte via the original version kept in a safe since 1832 Café Sacher is something of an institution, its location inside 5-star Hotel Sacher Wien maintaining old-world elegance even as the Hotel has acquired all the modern amenities guests expect.
Just feet from the State Opera, a clientele of well-heeled locals mingling with tourists, it is from 08h00 to 20h00 that diners can indulge in Coffee and Cake or Viennese classics such as Schnitzel or Gulash.
Priced similar to other Coffee houses but steeped in tradition, gold reliefs and crimson carpet throughout, service is professional yet pleasant with Beverages served quickly and Cakes including frosted Gugelhupf brightened by Ginger soon to follow.
Dining on white marble with signature plates, of course, Café Sacher’s Strudel arrives sliced large but lacking the nuance of others in town while the signature Torte features a moist Chocolate sponge beneath a ribbon of Apricot and Ganache plus a Sacher medallion perched on top.
Owned by the Reitbauer family Steirereck seeks to interpret Austria’s cuisine in new ways, a location inside Vienna’s Stadtpark at the same time urban and one with nature such that guests feel transported to the fields, gardens and streams from which their meal is created.
Built in 1904 with a mirrored glass extension added later, and focused on native Ingredients less commonly offered in traditional restaurants, Steirereck’s tasting menu taps into country’s cuisine in novel ways while historic dishes find themselves benefitted by Michelin 2* skills during lunch in a sun-bathed dining room.
Mainly light woods and crisp linens, several courses finished tableside or offered from rolling carts, it is after a Sparkling Wine toast that dining begins, the Bread Carte offering more than a dozen varieties including one impregnated by Blood Sausage while Canapes range from a delicate Beet Macaron and Jerusalem Artichoke Tart to the complexity of a chewy Carrot “pickled as Blueberries.”
Next offered fresh-cut Salad Greens from the Steirereck Garden plus velvety Leek Soup it is henceforth that each dish is presented with a detailed list of its contents, all happily explained by attentive yet affable service that even managed to appease a particularly ‘difficult’ diner at the adjacent table.
Skipping the famous Char in Bee’s Wax, late-winter’s Tasting instead begun by the Fish cooked mi cuit around Almond-Blueberry Cream with textural variants surrounding, a more traditional Lunch started with Reitbauer’s take on Viennese Wedding Soup featuring Lovage-infused Consommé, Veal Liver Dumplings and Spleen Toast.
Arguably Austria’s premier Restaurant, Chef Heinz Reitbauer’s dedication to agricultural research prominently noted in each plate, course two of the tasting sees Golden Osetra Caviar juxtaposing tender Beluga Lentils atop the flavors of Banana and Mushrooms while a follow-up of uncommon Carp from Lake Attersee is served grilled amidst spicy Citrus.
Led by Birgit Reitbauer up front, a recent winner of W50B’s Gin Mare Art of Hospitality Award, traditional dishes continue via Styrian Beef Gulash with Alpine Beef Cheeks, Spelt and Pickled Peppers while the tasting menu’s Piglet´s Tail is hidden beneath Tempura Shiso and Swiss Chard with vibrant cooking Jus.
Rounding out savories with classic Wiener Schnitzel and Sweetbreads, the latter served with an indigenous sweet Tuber called Yacon and nutty Aji Amarillo, the immense Cheese Carte was omitted in favor of saving space to enjoy previously unknown Service Berries atop Iced Cedar and the Forest Perennial Rye Souffle with a sidecar of Gin, Cornell Cherries and Dark Chocolate Ice Cream.
Not forgetting Reitbauer’s famous Potato Noodles with Poppyseed Butter and Crumble, nor the icy pedestal supporting Plum Ice Cream, Lunch concluded with myriad winter Citrus including Chocolates, Cookies, dried Peel and Gin Fizz Ice with Lemon Foam as a way of saying auf Wiedersehen.
Serving Austria for over 50 years Backerei Ströck remains family owned in its third generation, locations throughout Vienna opening early to provide guests with Sandwiches, Bread, Tartes and Viennoiseries.
Mostly a take-away operation across 70+ stores, the promise of fresh bakes and a lack of leavening agents part of the business since day one, it is upon entry that one will notice an abundance of options including several organic choices displayed across racks and cases.
Low-priced compared to more artisan competitors, many Pastries available under €2, Ströck’s Baguette is predicably less intricate than what one might find at Josef or Öfferl, the addition of Pork and Cheese making up some ground while an Almond Croissant was unfortunately build on Frangipane and immediately flaccid.
Much improved in the Marmelcroissant with Apricot Jam, though Pastry layers are still poorly separated, look to the Birnen Tarte Bourdaloue for something classic and delicious as cooked Apples settle into a delicate base with Sugar and Nuts.
Brightly decorated in pink with locations from adjacent Saint Stephen’s Church to the airport Aida Cafe-Konditorei has been serving Vienna since 1913, their claim of “better than the original” Sachertorte drawing the ire of some though the light Chocolate sponge and ribbon of Jam is merely one of Aida’s offerings.
Now boasting 34 stores, arguably the most popular franchise in Vienna, it is seated inside that guests are offered pleasant service beginning at 08h00 daily, early arrival at the flagship finding Apfelstrudel still warm inside shattering Puff Pastry with a generous amount of Fruit and textural Breadcrumbs at the center.
Happy to order housemade Whipped Cream with everything, though an Americano made from well-sourced Beans is best sipped black, additional Cakes include Hungary’s Esterhazy, named after a former diplomat to Austria featuring Fondant, Apricot Jam and an Almond Meringue sponge lightly perfumed by Rum.
Not sold on the Sacher Torte’s billing, though certainly an enjoyable rendition cut large, Cremeschnitte has become something of a signature for Aida across the years and with layers of Puff Pastry breaking briskly around Chantilly Cream and Vanilla Custard it is easy to see why.
From the lack of a website and paper register it can safely be said that Restaurant Walter Bauer is something of a throwback, a single star from Michelin suggesting competent cooking that is no-frills and heartfelt.
Named for its Chef whose Cuisine leans French by way of Vienna, all prepared properly and presented professionally, it is atop white linen that Bread is served almost immediately while Wine proves nearly essential thanks to frequent reminders by waiters.
Eventually opting for Sparkling Chardonnay out of Niederösterreich, its bright Citrus not ideal for an amuse of Austrian Bologna but well-suited to Foie Gras and Oranges, course two consisted of Pumpkin Risotto decorated in Green Beans with dollops of Curd Cheese.
Receiving Olive Oil with no explanation alongside the Rice, plus a pile of magazines to pass the time with no Wi-Fi, it was under vaulted ceilings surrounded by pink walls that beautifully-cooked Lamb arrived next with Polenta, Artichokes and a single curl of Bell Pepper.
€69 for 3-courses, plus €4 for Bread and €16 for “Schmarrn,” Dessert riffs on Viennese shredded Pancakes but misses the mark in portion-size and structure with the lone saving grace some poached Pears and velvety Chocolate Ice Cream.
Opened in 2013 with its first Michelin star in 2014 and second in 2016 Restaurant Konstantin Filippou sees its chef celebrate his Greek and Austrian background in the heart of Vienna.
Born in Graz to a family frequently found in the kitchen a love for cooking started early, an apprenticeship in Filzmo followed by time in Werfen eventually yielding a job at Steirereck where techniques were honed while learning to use some of Austria’s most revered Ingredients.
Further mentored at 3* Gordon Ramsay and Arzak before launching his eponymous Restaurant and minimalist dining room Konstantin Filippou seeks “clean tastes and [to] avoid the noise,” a lack of music at Lunch or Dinner quite noticeable as diners are invited to watch several dishes being prepared in clear view.
A relative bargain during the daytime at 3-courses for €56 or €68 for four, plus Amuses, Canapes and Mignardises, it was with an assertive local Weissburgunder that lunch got started, Sardines and upright Onions perched in salty Custard followed by an airy Lobster Tart and Whole Grain Bread alongside aromatic Butter.
Not exclusive to Austria, but rather a Chef whose travels have inspired the use of exquisite products from around the globe, course one saw diners diverge as one selected Mackerel not entirely dissimilar from the amuse while his lady saw textures of Salsify layered atop aged Cheese and faintly nutty Cream.
Supplementing a signature and daily dish next, Filippou’s Brandade and Caviar predictably delicious while “Fish Soup” featuring Langoustines and Lobster tasted distinctly Mediterranean by way of Citrus, Entrées each ate hearty whether Branzino with fermented flavors or Veal Tafelspitz surrounded by earthy Sprouts and Mushrooms.
Always artistically plated, “Greek Yogurt, Rosehip, Honey” a yin-and-yang of consistencies on either side of a delicate Tuille, it was as a bonus that both guests were gifted the Tasting Menu’s Dessert of Quince suspended in Almond Pudding with subtle notes of Chocolate and Vanilla.
A well-paced meal, neither rushed nor lingering too long between plates, Mignardises spanned the palate from cooling Mint with Lemon to poignant Olive and Pistachio ending with Dark Chocolate, Banana and Booze.
Promising to “secure an average of two square meters of biodynamic soil for the next generation” with every Loaf of Bread Öfferl Dampfbäckerei undoubtedly has a vision, their commitment to local Farmers spelled out in literature and embodied by the use of only biodynamic Grain in every item.
Described as a “community whose common denominator is respect for nature,” the Coffee, Milk and Jam sold on-site all responsibly sourced from Organic farms, guests entering any of Öfferl’s locations will quickly be greeted by the smell of Yeast followed by friendly and knowledgeable service.
Infrequently in the market for Bread when traveling, though Öfferl’s loaves do appear impressive, it was instead five Pastries that were taken elsewhere to enjoy, a Doughnut piped with stewed Apricots springy and light while the Walnusscroissant is a twice-baked beauty with lightly sugared Cream doing little to compromise skilled lamination.
Blending classics with modernity, Powidlbuchtl akin to a Parker House Roll stuffed with stewed Prunes, Öfferl throws its name into the mix for Vienna’s best Apfelstrudel thanks to myriad textures and natural sweetness while the Bio Sacher Torte reminisces of Souffle at the base of a Chocolate and Apricot Muffin.
French Toast with Poppyseed Plum Jam, Stewed Plums, Organic Curd Cheese
Apple Strudel
Almond Croissant
Cinnamon Roll
With eight locations across Austria it would be difficult to suggest Joseph Brot is anything but successful, the Bakery’s focus on 100% Organic Ingredients predictably commanding premium prices for handcrafted Food combining modern techniques with traditional recipes.
A bit different from store to store, some simply Patisseries while the flagship on Landstraßer Hauptstraße also contains Joseph’s Bistro, it was around 08h30 Monday that two guests sat down to Breakfast beginning with scalding Espresso and a carefully prepared Oat Milk Chai Latte.
Frequently Vegan and always handmade, an all-natural Sour Cherry Chocolate Cake as close as one gets to Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte without Cream and Booze, those seeking a hidden gem should keep their eyes peeled for the soft yet dense Wholegrain Muffin studded with Hazelnuts and filled with Apricot Preserves.
Open, airy and natural, with loaves used on menus at many of Vienna’s best Restaurants, fans of French Toast will find Joseph’s Brioche seared golden around Poppyseed Jam with Plums and whipped Cheese on the side while Apfelstrudel arrives warm and classical featuring Puff Pastry, Apples and nothing else to hide.
Onward to Viennoiserie that are heated to order suffice it to say any Almond Croissant eschewing Frangipane for hand-ground Filling is bound to impress while a Cinnamon Roll topped in Granulated Sugar earns high marks for texture and butteriness.
With three locations amongst a family of six Restaurants Plachutta is nothing short of an Austrian icon, Emperor Francis Joseph’s fondness for boiled Beef carried on with careful consistency for locals and tourists alike.
A true Imperial tradition with copper pans and a dozen different cuts of Beef available daily, guests entering Plachutta’s Wollzeile location are immediately greeted by attentive servers, tables inside or out available beginning at 11h30 daily and most occupied by those with reservations.
Working with only Austrian Beef and local farmers, a point of pride spelled out alongside how to best enjoy Tafelspitz, dinner begins with tepid Bread and ice-cold Butter that is easily forgotten for starters presented singular or as a “Trilogy” of Beef in Aspic, smooth Tartare and creamy Goose Foie Gras beneath a torched Sugar top.
Encouraged to try Plachutta’s Elderflower Sparkling Wine alongside the boiled Beef, in this case three cuts ranging from lean to marbled, Tafelspitz earns its accolades with beautiful texture while clear Broth finds lots of flavor from Root Vegetables, Chives and melted Marrow.
Upsold on Spinach, unnecessary when fried Potatoes and Marrow on Toast plus sliced Pancakes in the Soup are available, Sauces consist of enjoyable Chive Cream and Applesauce aggressively flavored with Horseradish.
An orderly experience intended to turn tables with servers only somewhat fluent in English, Dessert saw a Chocolate “Souffle” accidentally served instead of the Dairy Cream version requested, though it seems safe to assume neither would have been as authentic or memorable as tangy Sweet Curd Dumplings atop Berry Compote.
Kaiserschmarrn, Apple Mousse, Blueberries, Stewed Plums, Strawberries, Gooseberries
Espresso
Recommended by trusted travelers and Michelin Weibel’s Wirtshaus feels as though it may have occupied Kumpfgasse 2 for centuries, a short walk from St Stephen’s Cathedral finding the small Restaurant serving traditional Viennese fare plus seasonal inspirations.
Something of a “Gastropub” by Austrian standards, with outdoor dining offered in the garden, it is by a lone server that guests dining at lunch are guided with no rush as each and every plate is made in the kitchen as ordered.
Possibly an old home or inn, the kitchen hidden from view and a bar beneath more seating upstairs, Weibel’s comes decorated in tchotchkes and photos providing temporary distraction until the arrival of velvety Chestnut Soup unfortunately a little overwhelmed by Truffle Oil.
Fair priced from Appetizers to Entrees, €22,90 for a hulking piece of Wienerschnitzel more than justified by tender flesh and loosely-adherent Breading, don’t overlook semi-sweet cooked Cranberries as an addition nor a generous bowl of Potato and Cucumber Salad.
Open lunch and dinner with a sizeable Wine list for someplace so small, Dessert includes many of the usual suspects though none comes more recommended than torn Pancakes, or Kaiserschmarrn, kissed by Confectioner’s Sugar and ready to be topped with stewed Plums or Apple Mousse.
As the lobby Restaurant of Grand Hotel Wien Rosengarten tells a story dating back 150 years, the mansion designed by Carl Tietz still standing proud as a hub of Viennese social life since the days of Johann Strauss.
A popular meeting place for both local and international guests, posh seating and windows looking out on Vienna Ringstrasse setting the stage day or night, it is here that many suggest one will find Austria’s best Guglhupf offered whole or by the slice.
Open 10h00 to 24h00 for composed plates with multicultural influence, though earlier for Pastry, Coffee or Wine, service is attentive yet personable with Espresso served quick alongside Sparkling Water and tiny Chocolate Cookies.
Waiting mere moments for items on display in the Pastry case, first Apple Strudel decorated with Breadcrumbs and Golden Raisins, it was after devouring every speck of delicate Puff Pastry that attention focused on Rosengarten’s Marble Poundcake – “grand” in every way from the light yet moist crumb to slivered Almonds that mingle with Dark Chocolate.
Originally opened in 2000 at Schottenfeldgasse Bakery Cafe Felzl features the skills of Horst Felzl, his success now spread across five shops including a concise location at Helferstorferstraße 2 that is busy from 06h45 on weekdays and 08h00 on weekends.
Featuring clean lines and modern design across locations, each bathed in light with a larger menu found at the now-expanded original, Felzl focuses on locally grown Grains and Produce including Pielachtal Wheat and Styrian Seeds plus low-waste ethos often using “imperfect” Fruits.
Baked fresh on-site, the aroma evident to those nearby, any visit to Bakery Cafe Felzl should begin with Apple Strudel in delicate Pastry that features Cinnamon Breadcrumbs for added texture plus bright spots of acidity.
Onward to Obstplunder, a peerless Apricot Danish in English, Viennoiseries take on new meaning when teeth crackle through laminated layers of Felzl’s Nusskipferl though the oversized €9.30 Gugelhupf is a little more dry than what one will find at Rosengarten.
Located in the Southwest Marketplace, off Rainbow Boulevard, Valencian Gold reopened in mid-August 2021, the former “Spanish fast-casual” spot now a more complete concept focused on Tapas, Paella and Cocktails with great customer service.
Owned and operated by Chef Jeffrey Weiss, now a solo act assisted by new recruits, it was in celebration of a birthday that two guests sat down just prior to 6:00pm, tables arranged amidst pounded tin, tile, murals of Salvador Dali and a beautiful open kitchen with live fire toward the back.
Benefited by extensive training, Chef Weiss previously awarded an Institute of Culinary Education scholarship to train overseas before authoring “Soul of Spain,” it was after Drinks were poured that a parade of plates commenced while hip-hop played overhead.
“Paella for the People” glowing in neon, and Gil Hayon leading a front of house already outpacing other Off-Strip Restaurants around for years, Almonds and Olives arrived first alongside Foie Gras Rice Krispies Treats, first-timers quick to praise all three as well as dainty Crab Bunelos beneath Old Bay Hollandaise on an appropriate service-piece.
Next serving traditional Patatas Bravas, no frills but as good as one might find in Barcelona, Txangurro Basque Crab Dip comes ready to load on Housemade Pan de Aceite while the “Iberiburger” is so rich and juicy that one quickly understands why Chef Weiss chose to make it a Slider.
Seamlessly shifting from classic to modern, much like the Food offered in Tapas Bars throughout Spain, Spanish Style Artichokes are bound to please fans of the Ingredient while an “El Greco Salad” seems mostly Greek but is executed beautifully.
Going traditional with Paella Mixta atop crispy socarrat Dessert could easily comprise nothing but imported Cheeses, but that would certainly be ill-advised considering Valencian Gold’s world-class Basque Cheesecake plus newcomer Marcona Almond Salty Caramel Tart topped in delicate Crema.
FIVE STARS: Chef Weiss has reinvented something unique and delicious with Valencian Gold, and although the location may be obscure to some its flavors, price point and creativity should be enough to make the Restaurant a destination for many.
RECOMMENDED: Foie Gras Rice Krispies Treats, Pan de Aceite, Crab Bunelos, Patatas Bravas, Txangurro Basque Crab Dip, Spanish Style Artichokes, Paella Mixta, Basque Cheesecake, Marcona Almond Salty Caramel Tart.
AVOID: NA.
TIP: Open 4p-9p Tuesday and Wednesday, 4p-10p Thursday through Saturday. Reservations recommended.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Opened in 2018, with Anima by EDO debuted January 7 2022, EDO Gastro Tapas & Wine remains Las Vegas’ most exciting Restaurant thanks to its unrivaled ability to look backwards while at the same time pushing boundaries rarely approached by off-Strip dining.
Inspired by Catalonian traditions, Chef Oscar Amador Edo’s upbringing in Barcelona gifting him with a respect for diverse Ingredients and an ability to craft poignant bites that highlight rather than hide them, it was as a party of four that guests were accommodated near the back, GM Roberto Liendo charged with creating a Menu Degustacion including both regularly offered items and nightly inspirations.
An acronym for “Extra Day Off,” though EDO itself is open from 5pm until 9pm daily, it was with most of the Restaurant’s other 32 seats full by 6:00 on Wednesday that things were underway quickly with others enjoying Wine alongside vibrant Gazpacho as well as “Catalana Chicharron” that eats like Vitello Tonnato.
Seafood-centric early, though Pan Con Tomate arrived next alongside five types of Iberico Charcuterie, housemade Butter proved noteworthy in terms of taste as well as texture, and as a segue to Caviar Buns reminiscent of Disfrutar in Barcelona.
Next highlighting Peruvian Scallops with Strawberry Ponzu and Spanish bubbles, followed by two delicate bites suggesting Paella, bold flavors dominated Oysters Escabeche and creamed Asparagus beneath a layer of Caviar and fermented Truffles.
Weaving traditional to modern in a manner not dissimilar from Jose Andres or even the Adria brothers, Bluefin Tuna shaved thin beneath preserved Morels giving way to imported Burrata carrying complex spices, “Green Tartare” remains a signature for good reason – as do the Bikini and Patatas Bravas.
Potatoes once more with “Patata al Caliu,” crisp Skin housing Egg Yolk, Truffles and Fondant, Spring soon took center stage via fresh Peas beneath Octopus and Langoustines followed by plump Scallops atop Blood Sausage and Fava Beans.
Next dressing poached Skate in fragrant Hollandaise, Mushrooms and Truffles offering smooth transition to Risotto with Saffron and Corn Smut, savories concluded in Duck Confit blanked by mineral-rich Sauce with gravity that carried over nicely to Beets and smoked Beef.
Happy to let Oscar take liberties with Dessert, seared Foie giving way to a creamy Torchon beneath Pineapple and Hazelnut Ice Cream, no matter how good Flan or Strawberry Granita are it would be impossible to suggest either as remarkable as Miso Roasted Apples with candied Mushrooms and Honeycomb Gelato.
FIVE STARS: In a city where dining “critic” or “expert” gets liberally applied to folks who’ve never eaten in a Michelin 3* Restaurant or traveled overseas it is hard to take any claim of “best” serious. Every steakhouse has an “amazing” tartare. Every off-strip spot opened by a former strip Chef is “incredible.” Fact of the matter is that not one of them has the skill, daringness or unintentional excellence of EDO. This isn’t food for the #gram. It is not a redundant Caviar cart or GM willing to monkey dance for influencers. The bathroom is *awful* for selfies. This is just pure, heartfelt cuisine from a Chef who understands flavor. It is Las Vegas most exciting restaurant every day and probably the best most nights of the week for anyone who truly values great Food.
RECOMMENDED: Caviar Gougères, Paella Bite, White Asparagus Custard, Burratina, Green Tartare, Bikini Sobrasada, Patatas Bravas, Patata al Caliu, Tear Drop Peas, Huitlacoche Risotto Calamari Two Ways, Hudson Valley Duck a la Royal, Miso Roasted Apple, Foie Gras Torchon, Flan.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: 5:00p-9:00p daily. See Social Media for specials. Reservations available via Opentable.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
