Always on the move, both the Restaurant’s physical location and their health-conscious Cuisine, it was for Catering that David and Peter Mozes were again called upon Wednesday, the owners of Bronze Café again offering to prepare a special Thai menu instead of the usual delicious Salads and Sandwiches.
Located near Desert Shores in Summerlin, the former home of Beau Monde Bakery providing turnkey access for a Restaurant now offering Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, it was from Chef Mozes’ home recipes that Lunch consisted of several bowls and trays, Chicken Larb Lettuce Wraps making fast fans of those who opt to eat light while Chicken Satay Skewers shined thanks to Peanut Sauce.
Complete with plates and utensils, Bronze Café’s Tiger Cries Beef spicy but nuanced, fragrant Curry proved enjoyable while Beef Pad See Ewe rivaled the Drunken Noodles served at any traditional Thai Restaurant in town.
Happy to receive a glut of Desserts, all Vegan and The Peanut Butter Snickerdoodle still Las Vegas’ best Cookie despite mounting competition, those missing Beau Monde’s gluten-free offerings will be happy to know the Banana Flax Cake is made without any Wheat protein, as too is a fully loaded Carrot Cake that has only gotten better with time.
Continuing strong with the cleverly titled Loving v Virginia, a Brookie that sees both halves nicely textured, Chai Spice Cookies remain soft and almost Cake-like while the Rocky Road round rethinks well-known flavors with a rich Chocolate crumb.
Rounding out the afternoon with Muffins, each soft and moist, others delighted in Fruity Pebbles Treats made with Vegan Marshmallows plus Raspberry Scones and minty Macaroons plus an all-new Cinnamon Cheerios Treat.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, no matter where Chef Peter and David are set-up the quality has never declined, lunch on Thursday continuing to show quality and creativity bound to please those with and without dietary restrictions, whether they want to be gluttonous or eat light.
RECOMMENDED: Chicken Larb, Beef Pad See Ewe, Chicken Satay with Peanut Sauce, The Peanut Butter Snickerdoodle, The Carrot Cake, The Loving v. Virginia, The Banana Flax Cake, The Rocky Road Cookie, The Raspberry Scone.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: 8a-8p daily at 2380 N Buffalo Drive, Suite 110. 702-852-2830. Online ordering via all the usual apps but catering best coordinated by contacting the Restaurant directly.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Occupying 9435 West Tropicana Avenue inside Crossroads Plaza Shopping Center and open 24-hours with fresh bakes replenishing supply as necessary, it was with items carefully boxed and delivered to an office three miles away that Pinkbox brightened Monday morning.
More and more social-media savvy over the years this visit entailed far beyond the usual “OG Classics,” and although PinkBox’s Old Fashioned Cogwheels are still Las Vegas’ best additional traditional choices are mostly as expected and more expensive than spots like Real Donuts or Ronald’s nearby.
Fully committed to clever nomenclature, The Big Samoan riffing Girl Scout Cookie into a textural masterpiece, “Veggee” takes the Poomoji in new directions via Vegan Carrot Cake and luxurious “Cream” while Mr.Blueberry makes Roberto Armanino’s Cheesecake Bavarian better with Fruit and crunchy toppings.
Continuing Yeast via “Smashin’ Apple” and “Goin’ Bananas,” similar shells wrapped around Fruit beneath airy Whip, Holy Cannoli eats far heavier thanks to plenty of sweetened Mascarpone while “Baby Got Razz” moves the usual Jam-filled Sugar Doughnut forward with smooth and creamy housemade Filling.
Admitting a preference for Cake Doughnuts, “Pretty in Pink” Red Velvet by any other name, “Mama’s Tres Leches” checks all the eponymous boxes for taste and wetness while “Green Machine” is nothing short of revelatory in terms of both its moisture and nuttiness, plus the manner in which Pistachio Cream Cheese Buttercream manages to be sweet yet lightly sour and full of nuance.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: A fan of the staff and fried Dough at Pinkbox for nearly nine years there remains no place better for Ol’ Fashioned and artisan choices, but as prices have inched upwards the value for more basic forms of Bars or Raised Donuts has diminished even as creativity has flourished.
RECOMMENDED: Ol’ Fashioned, Veegee, Green Machine, The Big Samoan, Mama’s Tres Leches, Baby Got Razz, Holy Cannoli.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Open 24/7
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Reopened in October 2021, a 19- month hiatus and rearranged dining room in the rearview, Le Cirque at Bellagio entered the “new normal” by charting a novel course as Tasting Menu-only under the guidance of Chef Dameon Evers and General Manager Gabriel Fontenier.
Since 1998 the resort’s most sought-after reservation, a forty-year history in Manhattan uncertain following the passing of Sirio Maccioni, guests entering the jewel box space will quickly recognize the half-moon bar and big top ceiling while the menu is two eight-course Tastings at $388 per person or $128 for the 3-course l’Introduction.
Currently operating from 5:00pm until 10:00pm Thursday through Saturday, much of the staff familiar across twenty prior visits from 2008 to 2019, it was amidst plush fabrics and light music that two diners were seated, service predictably faultless across the next 210 minutes.
Opting for one of each Prestige Menu, plus all-new Cocktails including one with Caviar on Ice and another perfumed by Truffles, it was alongside these that Caviar, Bread and an Amuse were presented, the former offering 50g of Reserve Osetra atop an ornate Octopus alongside warm Buckwheat Blinis and all the usual Condiments.
Now priced on par with Robuchon and Savoy, the future of Las Vegas’ fine dining scene hanging in the balance, course two looks back at before moving forward, Le Cirque’s classic Lobster Salad or a Vegetarian counterpart offered on Monkey plates followed by Duck Liver atop Pine Nuts cooked like Farro or vibrant Tomato Tartare.
Forever the realm of Sommelier Freddy Montandon alongside Wine Director Sanae Halprin, the former presenting Sauternes with bright Fruits to accompany the Foie Gras, course three sees Chef Evers drape Black Truffles over Sunchoke Agnolotti before moving to Fish with crispy Skin versus assertive Artichokes to those opting for Vegetables.
Returning “whole Duck” as an a la carte option, ruby Flesh and crackling skin offered a l’Orange with Fennel as the Prestige’s penultimate savory, Vegetarian diners are instead treated to Beets reminiscent of what Dameon created with Chef Joshua Skenes at Angler atop Chicories.
Not exactly finishing strong with grilled Asparagus and underwhelming Romesco, though the meaty alternative of A5 Wagyu is predictably luxurious, Spring’s Palate Cleanser returns Oranges and Tangerine as Ice Cream beneath Yuzu Granita to create a decidedly memorable Parfait.
Having celebrated special events at Le Cirque over the years, elegant touches such as a signed card and Polaroid photo never taken for granted, Dessert sees the return of another classic by way of a tall and proud Souffle juxtaposing rich Ganache matched to Mango Gel and Chocolate Streusel.
Completing the night with Mignardises and take-home Candies, plus sachets of Tea inserted in the Menu, Las Vegas remains fortunate to have a Restaurant like Le Cirque as GM Gabriel Fontenier and Chef Dameon Evers continue to reinvent and refine a storied space into something entirely new and undeniably delicious.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Forever one of the Strip’s most iconic spaces guests will not find better service in Las Vegas while Le Cirque’s Spring menu shines thanks to impeccable Ingredients cooked carefully across plates both classic and modern.
RECOMMENDED: Both Tasting Menus are exemplary, with highlight plates the Foie Gras, Tomato Tartare, Artichokes Barigoule, Duck a l’Orange, Creamsicle and Chocolate Souffle.
AVOID: N/A, though in comparison to Guy Savoy and Joel Robuchon the Bread Service, Mignardises and portions are somewhat lacking.
TIP: Le Cirque is currently open Thursday through Sunday from 5 p.m. – 10 p.m.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Still Sin City’s toughest reservation Delilah debuted at Wynn in July of 2021, the “social dining” experience from L.A.’s h.wood Group making good use of Michelin 2* Alex’s former footprint with aspirations to redefine a modern day Supper Club.
Long awaited and debuted with an opulent Grand Opening of A-List celebrities, guests are immediately met by a small foyer before entering the thirty-seat Little Bubble Bar whose rich fabrics overlook the main Dining Room two floors below.
Accessed by double staircases, with bronze and marble gilding the space envisioned by Wynn’s Todd-Avery Lenahan, tables reside between a main stage and larger bar with posh materials and wood surrounded by plaster ceilings above numerous original paintings.
Fusing interior to outside via paired courtyards, one abutting the Chef’s Table and secret dining room directly accessed via the kitchen, it was here that eleven diners sat Saturday to enjoy twenty-two plates from Chef Josh Smith and Pastry Chef Benjamin Maigné.
Over-the-top in a good way, from contrasting patterns and custom porcelain to gracious servers with encyclopedic knowledge of the Chef Smith’s Cuisine, it is once Beverages are ordered that tables receive complimentary Milk Bread, each slice piping hot with a delicate crumb ready to be slathered by some of the best Butter in America.
Sparing no expense in terms of Ingredients or décor, a Shellfish platter enjoyed beneath plaster ceilings rimmed in celebrity caricatures, Appetizers from Chef Josh Smith continued with raw Wagyu and ruby-red Tuna given the Peruvian treatment and intended to be eaten off fried Plantains.
High energy in the main room, but more focused on friends and Food in private, guests familiar with Las Vegas’ dining scene will quickly recognize several staff from Bardot or elsewhere, while Chef brought along several ideas such as the King Crab Caesar and Foie Gras French Toast create while with Mina Group.
Onward to Entrees, but not before “Delilah’s Famous Chicken Tenders” again justified their signature status in terms of both taste and texture, Delilah’s Beef Wellington sees Chef Smith once again outpacing Gordon Ramsay alongside creamy Mashed Potatoes while Loup de Mer Provencal arrives perfectly cooked with toasted Orzo and Vegetables bathed in Romesco.
Not forgetting Wagyu Beef and Puff Pastry “Pigs in a Blanket” or Steak Fries, and fortunate to preview vibrant “Carbonara” that tastes as green as it looks, Chicken & Dumplings outperforms its name on the strength of Bobo Farms Bird plus tender Dumplings bathed in Wine-fortified Jus.
Already showcasing Pasta with Bardot’s vertical Macaroni, bettered by Black Truffle Bechamel, Winter’s Fettuccine Alfredo remains memorable thanks to delicate ribbons of Pasta with Truffles atop Cream Sauce while Chasen’s Original Carrot Souffle serves as a peerless segue to Dessert.
Growing livelier by the minute, but never too loud, it was around 8:30pm that Pastry Chef Maigné took over, Chef Smith’s Grandmother’s world-class Gooey Butter Cake still unmatched in Sin City while an over-the-top “Delilah Sundae” furthered the celebratory feeling.
Elevating a Comfort Food staple by turning Banana Pudding into Crème Brulee, and offering an appropriate tribute to excess in “Kendall’s Slutty Brownie,” Benjamin’s upcoming Sicilian Cake closed out the night with stunning taste and texture using a classic combination of Pistachios and Raspberries.
FIVE STARS: As much an “experience” as dinner, Delilah sets a high bar for “dinner and a show” thanks to not only unparalleled opulence and top-quality service, but a skilled kitchen led by Chefs Josh Smith and Benjamin Maigné.
RECOMMENDED: King Crab Caesar, Foie Gras French Toast, Delilah’s Famous Chicken Tenders, Loup de Mer Provencal, Spring Pea Carbonara, Chicken & Dumplings, Carrot Souffle, Wagyu Beef Wellington, Fettuccine Alfredo, Sicilian Cake, Banana Pudding Crème Brulee, Grandma’s Gooey Butter Cake.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: 5:30pm-10:30pm daily for reservations, though late-night and bottle service go much later including a truncated menu plus some specials.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Carne Asada Fajitas – Bell Peppers, Onions, Rice, Beans
Mole Poblano – Chicken, Rice, Beans
Opened in 2016 by Vanessa Barreat and Raul Martinez-Olmos La Vecindad has quickly earned notoriety for its celebratory ambiance, a setting well-suited for birthday parties or wakes where the spacious confines allow guests to spread out and enjoy homestyle plates created from scratch in the kitchen.
“Pico De Gallo” per staff, Raul and Vanessa’s beginnings as a Food stand outside the flea market furthering a mom n’ pop story, it is amidst pinatas and bright colors that diners are treated to gracious service while traditional music plays on overhead speakers.
Located in the complex at 953 East Sahara Avenue, not exactly the nicest part of Sin City with a swinger’s bar adjacent and an infamous hookah bar not far, dinner began with watery Salsa and Chips from a bag alongside well-priced Drinks including stiff Margaritas or Aguas Frescas for those who opt not to imbibe.
Open at 10am for Café de Olla and Cochas, the menu sprawling from Burritos and Enchilado to decidedly inauthentic Fajitas, La Vecindad’s “everything to everyone” approach has worked remarkably well as evidenced by “Best of Las Vegas” accolades that seem best justified in a sopping wet Pambazo ordered down the way and complex Mole unfortunately compromised by overcooked Chicken Legs that is thankfully good enough to eat with just housemade Tortillas.
THREE STARS: Difficult to properly assess with just two plates plus complimentary Chips La Vecindad’s appeal relies strongly on décor and low prices that unfortunately see cheaper cuts of Meat utilized in both Steak Fajitas and Chicken beneath excellent Mole.
RECOMMENDED: Housemade Tortillas, Mole Poblano
AVOID: The Carne Asada eats like leather.
TIP: 10a-9p daily.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
A one time a Cannery West kiosk now turned online business The Cookie Bar continues to march on, Wendy Baumgartner’s passion for baking undeterred by the pandemic and her current collection full of kitschy yet delicious creations.
Available via online apps, Food Truck or at Special Events, the options easily customized online, Friday featured a dozen options delivered to the office with individual packaging quickly discarded and a bag of buttered-sweet Booze Munch quickly gone in a few handfuls.
Featuring both virgin and kicked-up riffs on classic American confections, Big Ohh adding granulated Sugar to the top of an Oatmeal Raisin Cookie for texture, both ”Kitchen Sink” cubes deliver about 6oz of decadence with a Cookie and Brownie sandwiching Oreos or Reese’s.
Adding Wedding Cake Vodka to Tipsy Velvet and a heart-shaped “Twisted Krispie,” the later a masterpiece thanks to Sea Salt and soft notes of Cocoa, The Cookie Bar’s Sugar Cookies eat like crisp Shortbread with nuance added by Citrus in the case of Limoncello and torched Sugar atop Crème Brulee.
Going classic with Buzz Kill while S’more Love’s bright Baking Spices shine beneath Marshmallows and Chocolate Drizzle, “The Nookie” stuffs soft Caramel into a Pecan-studded Chocolate Chip round for just $3 – the same bargain cost charged for “Turnt Up Banana” with a chewy Banana base infused with Rum and topped with Vodka Buttercream Frosting.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: As homegrown (or perhaps homebrewed) as it gets, the Baumgartner’s Cookie Bar should be on any the short list for anyone with a sweet-tooth and all the more so for those looking to #supportlocal.
RECOMMENDED: Booze Munch, PB Kitchen Sink, Twisted Krispie, Turnt Up Banana, The Nookie, Crème Brulee.
AVOID: The Buzzkill was a bit pedestrian compared to the rest, but even then it was still a really good Chocolate Chip Cookie.
TIP: Check the website for complete menu and offerings, delivery also available via all the online apps.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Already celebrating three years serving Las Vegas, with a second location in Glendale, Big Chicken navigated its way through the pandemic thanks to leadership including General Manager Trisha Durham and Chef Matt Piekarski who each assisted with a memorable lunch on Friday.
Still surprising fans as well as skeptics with Food far better than the typical “celebrity” Restaurant, Shaquille O’Neal’s involvement seeing talented locals tapped from the start, it was via ezCater that delivery was seamlessly coordinated at a budget well-within guidelines and timely delivery.
Using sturdy exterior packaging to protect product freshness, several boxes arriving temperature appropriate from 4480 Paradise Road, it was not long before staff dug in finding Sandwiches perfectly textured thanks to vertical presentations that keep seasoned Poultry crunchy and Buns fluffy.
Opting for one Sandwich Package plus fifty Strips, the former offering 30 Sandwiches, Fries and two Cookies, it was with Lucille’s Mac n’ Cheese that many attendees opted to start, the creamy-crunchy combo a big hit while Tenders also disappeared fast dipped in dueling Sauces.
Moving next to Big Chicken’s eponymous item, the Breasts from Naked Truth brined and cooked crisp with plenty of moisture locked beneath well-spiced Breading, it was with some added to Salads and others used simply as Dippers than Tenders were gone quick while the Bird on Brioche saw Nashville-inspired Uncle Jerome earn high marks in a market quickly becoming over-saturated.
Creating additional fans by way of BC Fries, the thin and crispy Spuds eating more like seasoned Chips than actual French Fries and thus traveling well without sog, The Big Aristotle Sandwich also earns high marks thanks to melted Muenster Cheese, battered Fried Onions, Bacon, and smoky BBQ Sauce.
Not forgetting Uncle Jerome, Breasts from Naked Truth brined and cooked crisp with plenty of moisture locked beneath spicy Breading, it was with amusement that many posed for pictures with a Big Cookie before finally dividing and devouring, the Dough from Crumb Fairy Bakery in Van Nuys California chewy from edge-to-edge with Organic Dark Chocolate helping to keep sweetness in check.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone there is no doubt that Chefs Matt Piekarski and Silverman have created something far better than expected at Big Chicken, and whether enjoyed on-site or at the Office the product outperforms the competition at a fair price considering Ingredient quality.
RECOMMENDED: Uncle Jerome, Big Aristotle, Chicken Strips, Shaq Sauce, BC Fries, Lucille’s Mac n’ Cheese.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Open 11a through 10pm daily.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Charcuterie Salad – Spinach, Lettuce, Banana Peppers, Salami, Ham, Turkey, Mozzarella Cheese, Tomatoes, Red Wine Vinaigrette
Garlic Buns
Guinea Pie – White Garlic Sauce, Spinach, Grandma’s Meatballs, Mozzarella Cheese, Ricotta Cheese
Buffalo 22 Pizza – White Sauce, Mozzarella, Cup n Char Pepperoni, House Italian Sausage, Crispy Garlic, Hot Honey, Roasted Garlic Crust
Cheese Pizza – Naked City Red Sauce, Mozzarella
Pepperoni Pizza – Naked City Red Sauce, Mozzarella, Cup n Char Pepperoni
Naked City Pizza – Red Sauce, Pepperoni, Sausage, Onion, Sweet Peppers, Green Olives
Stuffed Mushrooms – White Button Mushrooms, Naked City Sausage, Mozzarella, Parmesan, Garlic Sauce
Guinea Pasta – Spaghetti, White Garlic Sauce, Spinach, Grandma’s Meatballs, Ricotta
Oreo Brookie
Oreo Brookie with Walnuts
Historically the first Restaurant ever selected to #supportlocal with lunch at the office, and reprising their catering role several times since, it was on Friday that Naked City Pizza delivered from the Blue Diamond Road “Express” location approximately ten minutes away.
The 21st time bringing Christopher and Michael Palmeri’s Pizza Shop off-site, indoor dining now reopened brand-wide, it was minutes prior to 11:30am that Michael arrived with a glut of items, easily enough Food for twice the number of guests with plenty of leftovers for later.
Presenting everything temperature appropriate it was not long before first-shift lunchers called dibs on Slices, Cup n’ Char Pepperoni predictably proving popular atop melted Mozzarella and housemade Sauce with plenty of Herbs, as did Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives famous Guinea Pie featuring White Garlic Sauce and Grandma Palmeri’s Meatballs.
Slinging Sin City’s best Chicken Wings, a few dozen devoured in minutes, Salad again proved popular with those seeking something lighter while the Buffalo 22 Pizza continues to make waves with dueling Meats, White Sauce, Crispy Garlic and Mike’s Hot Honey.
Continuing with Garlic Buns, slices continued to be enjoyed alongside an inspired new Pasta while Dessert consisted of housemade Brookies impregnated with Oreos that taste great warm, cold or even two days later.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone there is a reason Naked City Pizza has been serving Sin City for over a decade, and so long as Christopher and Michael continue to work as hard as they always have there is little doubt that any order will delight a crowd whether at the Shop or delivered.
Maple Ol’ Fashioned – Old Fashion Doughnut, Maple Frosting
Blue Rainbow Ring – Vanilla Cake, Blue Frosting, Rainbow Sprinkles
Occupying 9435 West Tropicana Avenue inside Crossroads Plaza Shopping Center and open 24-hours with fresh bakes replenishing supply as necessary, it was with items carefully boxed and delivered to an office three miles away that Pinkbox brightened Wednesday morning.
More and more social-media savvy over the years this visit entailed more than the usual “OG Classics,” and although PinkBox’s Old Fashioned Cogwheels are still Las Vegas’ best additional traditional choices are mostly as expected and more expensive than spots like Real Donuts or Ronald’s.
Fully committed to clever nomenclature, though Sin City’s best Buttermilk Bar remains exactly that, “Veggee” takes the Poomoji in new directions via Vegan Carrot Cake and luxurious “Cream” while Mr.Blueberry makes Roberto Armanino’s Cheesecake Bavarian better with Fruit and textural toppings.
Finishing with an all-new “Doughnut of the Month,” a preference for Cake Doughnuts admitted, the “Green Machine” is nothing short of revelatory in terms of both its moisture and nuttiness, but the manner in which Pistachio Cream Cheese Buttercream manages to be sweet yet lightly sour and full of nuance.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: A fan of the staff and fried Dough at Pinkbox for nearly nine years there remains no place better for Ol’ Fashioned and artisan choices, but as prices have inched upwards the value for more basic forms of Bars or Raised Donuts has diminished even as creativity has flourished.
RECOMMENDED: Maple Ol’ Fashioned, Buttermilk Bar, Veegee, Ol’ Fashioned, Green Machine, Feelin’ Toasty.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Open 24/7
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Debuted in early 2021 Milpa took over the former Elia space at 4226 South Durango Drive, its off-kilter location unfortunately easy to miss despite the fact that Chef DJ Flores is cooking some of the best contemporary Mexican Cuisine in Las Vegas.
Part Molino and also a sit-down Café, with stone-ground housemade Tortillas a point of pride, Milpa’s focus is a healthier sort of Mexican Fare built largely from local Ingredients, and although not everyone will appreciate that difference the ones that do will be rewarded by every bite.
Ordered for delivery on Monday, a Milpa employee arriving on time with plenty of serviceware and utensils, it was not long before staff piled their plates with everything from fragrant Rice to spicy Spuds, while Corn Esquites channel Elotes minus all the Mayonnaise.
Raised in Vegas with skills developed under thinkfoodgroup and Too Hot Tamales before staging at Quintonil in Mexico City, Chef Flores created Milpa after time at Chica in The Venetian, though the authenticity of this project far outpaces anything from Lorena Garcia whether it be Salad or roasted Meats.
Well-priced for the quality, roughly $15 per person providing more than enough of everything to go around, Guacamole, Chips and Salsa are all praiseworthy and made fresh daily, as are Concha served during early hours and Cookies featuring Chocolate Chips, Granulated Sugar, Cinnamon and Abuelita.
Further making fans with a Romaine & Jicama Salad, whether eaten as intended or using its constituents as Taco toppings, Chef Flores’ handmade Tortillas are medium-thick, soft and with the perfect amount of flex such that one is enough to support tender Short Ribs, plump Shrimp or juicy Chicken plus accoutrements.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, Milpa achieves the rare trifecta of healthy, affordable and delicious, all while utilizing time honored techniques plus largely local Ingredients to produce Mexican Cuisine that outpaces places deemed “Fine Dining” on The Strip.
TIP: Follow milpa_lv on Social Media for daily specials, pop-ups and business hours that currently stand at 10am to 7pm Monday through Wednesday, closed Thursday, 10am to 7pm Friday, 9am to 7pm Saturday and 9am to 4pm Sunday.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Occasionally one must abandon the rarified air of Mott 32 and handmade deliciousness of Shanghai Taste, the celebration of a good friend’s birthday taking some sixty-five guests to Orchids Garden on the corner of Sahara and Lindell.
A neon beacon for two decades, and still one of Las Vegas’ few locations for all-day Dim Sum, it was just prior to 6:00pm that five guests entered the space prior to several others, a total of seven tables each celebrating as silver carts navigated the premises.
Clean in terms of décor and populated by a largely Asian clientele, both good signs as are the well-maintained Fish tank and restrooms, it was less than five minutes after taking a seat that Water arrived and Tea was offered, the former kept filled while staff also did a good job of making certain that Tea Pots were topped-off regularly.
Sticking to Dim Sum for the evening, a truncated version of the daytime collection offered but unfortunately already sold out of several selections, it was as friends were still trickling in that Dinner began with Shrimp, both frilly Balls made with sliced Wontons and more traditional versions outperforming tepid Calamari soaked in Oil.
Seated with a mixed group, most ordering with minimal knowledge and some restricting Pork, Chow Mein proved almost flavorless save for Salt just as it did during prior visits, Orchids Garden’s Rice Noodles with Beef also fairly dull without Soy poured on top.
Difficult to say whether Orchids Garden uses previously frozen Dim Sum or makes the items fresh on-site, likely a combination of both, Shiu Mai suffers from a mushy consistency while Beef Ribs are fatty but delicious.
Fair-to-middling for Chicken Wings and Crab Balls, both “safe” for mixed crowds, Fried Glutinous Rice is more challenging and memorable while Pork Sticky Rice in Lotus Leaf and traditional Cantonese Buns are much better choices.
Happy with steamed and baked Pork Buns while Eggplant with Shrimp Paste could use more of the latter and thinner slices of the former, the absence of Egg Tarts for the third time made Dessert a pick ‘em between Custard Buns and excellent Lotus Sesame Balls.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: While it may indeed be true that Las Vegas lacks world-class Dim Sum Off-Strip, the debut of New Asian BBQ on Spring Mountain (in addition to Chang’s or KJ) has relegated Orchids Garden to a very specific status of “only when absolutely necessary.”
Although Mint Indian Bistro has been serving Spring Valley since December 2016 it wasn’t until a recent merger with India Oven Masala Bar & Grill that the decision was made to utilize them for catering, Ulzan Mehta’s joining with Kris and Bindi Parikh somewhat bittersweet as Las Vegas lost one of its best Indian Eateries and some of Mr. Mehta’s wonderful recipes in the process.
Ever punctual, even from new environs, it was from 4246 South Durango Drive that nine items were laid out complete with serviceware, recognizable items such as Kebobs, Naan and Rice predictably going first while Pakora also proved popular thanks to both their familiarity and taste.
Slower to accept Samosa, but quickly finishing a tray once taught to top the Potato pockets with Chutney, it is no surprise that Butter Chicken many mistakenly called Tikka Masala also went fast, the spice profile amped up in comparison to India Oven’s version while creamy Goat Korma finds pieces of boneless Lamb now mixed in.
Requesting extra Chicken on this visit it was after a few more pieces of Naan that Dessert was enjoyed, several Syrup-soaked Orbs followed by Gajar Halwa that is thinner than many, but still successful in terms of flavor.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone the closure of India Oven Masala Bar & Grill is a big loss, though it is nice to see Ulzan Mehta still in the business.
Lemon Garlic Green Beans, Artichokes, Red Onions, Tomatoes
Mashed Potatoes
Moroccan Chicken
Braised Short Ribs
The S’mores Turnover
The Oatmeal Raisin Cookie
The Raspberry Scone
The Peanut Butter Snickerdoodle
The Mexican Chocolate Chip Muffin
The Mixed Berry Muffin
The Loving v Virginia Brookie
The Rocky Road Cookie
The Strawberry Cookie
The Chocolate Chip Cookie
The Banana Flax Cake
The Loaded Carrot Cake
Always on the move, both the Restaurant’s physical location and their health-conscious Cuisine, it was for Catering that David and Peter Mozes were again called upon Wednesday, the owners of Bronze Café again offering to prepare a special menu instead of the usual delicious Salads and Sandwiches.
Located near Desert Shores in Summerlin, the former home of Beau Monde Bakery providing turnkey access for a Restaurant now offering Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, it was from Chef Mozes’ home recipes that Lunch consisted of several trays, Green Bean Salad making fast fans of those who opt to eat light while Potatoes and Carrots were homestyle delicious.
Complete with plates and utensils, Bronze Café’s Moroccan Chicken fragrant and juicy, Red Wine Braised Short Ribs again stole the show by remaining medium-to-medium rare but fall-from-the-bone tender.
Happy to receive a glut of Desserts, all Vegan and The Peanut Butter Snickerdoodle still Las Vegas’ best Cookie despite mounting competition, those missing Beau Monde’s gluten-free offerings will be happy to know the Banana Flax Cake is made without any Wheat protein, as too is a fully loaded Carrot Cake that has only gotten better with time.
Continuing strong with the cleverly titled Loving v Virginia, a Brookie that sees both halves nicely textured, Strawberry Cookies remain soft and almost Cake-like while an Oatmeal Raisin round updates an old favorite with a “buttery” crumb despite the lack of Butter, Milk or Eggs.
Rounding out the afternoon with Muffins, each soft and moist with plenty of heat in “Mexican Chocolate,” others delighted in Rock Road Cookies made with Vegan Marshmallows plus Raspberry Scones and S’mores Turnovers.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, no matter where Chef Peter and David are set-up the quality has never declined, lunch on Thursday continuing to show quality and creativity bound to please those with and without dietary restrictions, whether they want to be gluttonous or eat light.
RECOMMENDED: Moroccan Chicken, Braised Short Ribs, The Peanut Butter Snickerdoodle, The Carrot Cake, The Loving v. Virginia, The Oatmeal Craisin Cookie, The Raspberry Scone, The Strawberry Cookie, The Banana Flax Cake
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: 8a-8p daily at 2380 N Buffalo Drive, Suite 110. 702-852-2830. Online ordering via all the usual apps but catering best coordinated by contacting the Restaurant directly.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
BBQ Pork Bao Buns – Sweet Soy, Chilis, Shiitake Mushrooms
Szechuan Beef Bao Buns – Angus Beef, Szechuan Peppers, Scallions
Royale with Cheese Bao Buns – Angus Beef, Cheese, Pickles, Onions, Special Sauce
Nutella Bao Buns
Previously discussing Chef Marrone’s background here, time with Tao Group unequivocally involved in Asian Cuisine capable of satisfying both discerning diners and folks that typically gravitate to Panda Express, it was late Monday that a Graffiti Bao employee arrived with everything necessary, professionalism and safety never in question.
Opting for old favorites from a menu that offers far more diversity than its brevity suggests, the Graffiti Burger was predictably the first stop for many, and although the tender Meat and fresh Toppings were highly praised Graffiti Bao’s Chicken Fried Rice remains a fan-favorite thanks to toasted Chiles and bits of fried Skin on top.
Onward to Green Beans slicked with Honey, the quality of Graffiti Bao’s sourcing shows well from Protein to Produce, five styles of the Restaurant’s eponymous Buns satisfying diners on this day with the BBQ Pork a favorite for many but the Pulp Fiction referencing Royale with Cheese also pretty tough not to enjoy.
Neglecting White Rice to save stomach capacity for better things, at least three whole Scallion Pancakes devoured over the course of an hour, Marrone’s Braised Short Ribs with folded Bao saw two trays emptied nearly as quickly.
Rounding out the allotment with Crispy Wings and Spring Rolls, the latter often overlooked but amongst the best of their kind thanks to an oilless exterior housing plenty of meat and flavor, it was with plenty of Leftovers packed that staff was sated and already looking forward to the next time Graffiti Bao is ordered.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, Graffiti Bao sets a very high standard in terms of customer service, while every Item across 23 orders has been nicely presented, displaying “Fusion” without being compromised and appealing to a broad range of diners.
RECOMMENDED: Scallion Pancakes, Royale with Cheese Bao Buns, BBQ Pork Bao Buns, Chicken Egg Fried Rice, Braised Short Ribs, Sticky Green Beans, Prawn and Pork Spring Rolls, Graffiti Burger.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Southwest location is open Monday through Sunday from 11:00am to 8:00pm. Follow @GraffitiBao for specials including those at the re-opened original in T-Mobile Arena and up in Utah.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Cote de Porc, Slow Roasted Cabbage, Braised Lentils
Cheeseburger and Fries
Sheep’s Milk Cheesecake, Poached Rhubarb
Recently the Pikey, but in past decades West Hollywood’s Ye Coach & Horses, there may be no “hotter” reservation in So.Cal right now than Liz Johnson and Will Aghajanian’s Horses – and the pair are doing it with aged leather booths plus the sort of lighting that pays no attention to Social Media.
Previously found cooking at Nashville’s Catbird Seat, though Johnson may be known to locals from her time at Freedman’s, it is prior to 5:00pm that a crowd begins to gather outside 7617 Sunset Boulevard where a limited number of tables are first come first serve while the rest are booked months in advance.
A storied space left with much of its original luster, bright primary colors and the eponymous animal comprising most of Horses’ décor, it is after warm greetings that guests are led to tight tables as music overhead plays slightly below a dull roar.
Bringing in talent from Roberta’s in Brooklyn, plus GM Terence Leavey whose past includes time with Wolfgang Puck’s premier properties, Horses’ menu is concise and well explained by cordial staff who are happy to make recommendations prior to delivering piping hot Bread and an enormous molded plate of Cultured Butter.
Bistro French with California sensibility, $13 for eight bites of Honey-slicked Bread wrapped around spicy Sobrassada but one example, Pastas act better as an Appetizer or mid-course than Entrée with the focus quite clearly on technique and flavor rather than fancy plating.
Well worn in a good way, paper on the tables and aged wood contributing to a throw-back feel, dainty Gnocchi give way to Saffron Pappardelle with funky Duck Sugo on the current menu while a $28 Cheeseburger only seems excessive until teeth pierce thick Tartare-tender aged Beef cooked medium-rare beneath Wisconsin Cheddar plus Onions both raw and caramelized.
Not forgetting Fries that are thin, crisp and liberally salted, Aghajanian’s Herb-crusted Pork Chop earns every accolade it has been given thanks to unparalleled juiciness and perfectly rendered Fat, though its sizable portion including seasonal sides suggests it is best ordered to share so that one can save room for Horses’ remarkable Sheep’s Milk Cheesecake that makes up for sweetness with creaminess alongside assertive Rhubarb.
Maple Soaked Pancakes Ice Cream, Pineapple Upside Down Cake Ice Cream, Housemade Waffle Cone
From humble beginnings in the North Market to calculated nationwide expansion Jeni’s will always hold a special place in the heart of this Buckeye, every visit since senior year of college offering something new and delicious and on this Saturday highlighted by all the flavors of a Buttermilk Pancakes and Syrup juxtaposing tangy Pineapple, buttery Cake and Cherries.
Nixtamal Queen – Heirloom Masa Caramelized Sweet Bread
Dona – Twice Baked Raspberry Almond Croissant
Concha – Sweet Bread, Cacao Topping
Pan de Maiz – Heirloom Oaxacan Corn, Honey
Biscuit
Spelt Cookie – Whole Grain, Chocolate, Sea Salt
Opened in August 2020 Arturo Enciso and Ana Belén Salatino’s Gusto Bread actually dates back to 2013, though the techniques and Ingredients utilized tell a story centuries old in each Loaf and Pastry.
Begun as a cottage bakery after years of experimentation, the Long Beach storefront equally understated as shelves inside, guests are greeted warmly on entry where a smell of Yeast hangs in the air faintly punctuated by hints of Coffee.
California reared by Mexican parents, a dedication to native Grains evident across a menu rooted in Enciso’s Sourdough Starter, any tasting of Gusto Bread should begin with its naturally leavened “California Loaf” fed by Whole Wheat with a robust Crust and delicate, open crumb.
Not exactly a Panaderia nor Patisserie, where a naming scheme including the Spanish word for Donut is used to describe an Almond Croissant layered with Jam, Gusto’s Concha is a masterful piece of Pan Dulce textures not unlike Angelfood Cake topped in crumbly Chocolate Sugar.
More traditional with Pain de Maiz and Biscuits, the later featuring softly separating layers ready to sop up any topping of choice, those who think of Cornbread as “Soulfood” in So.Cal will be happy to know Enciso’s version uses plenty of imported Corn for moisture and enough Honey that nothing extra is needed to make it exquisite.
Self-trained prior to stages in Spain, Oaxaca and elsewhere for refinement, the “Spelt Cookie” by any other name Chocolate Chip with Sea Salt, if there is any “MUST HAVE” item in Gusto’s collection it is the Nixtamal Queen – a Kouign Amann made from Sourdough and heirloom Masa that features Butter-laminated layers and Caramelized Sugar capable of wowing those who’ve been to Brittany as well as those more familiar with traditional Mexican Sweet Breads.
Serving Long Beach since 2017, the former owners of Siem Reap Restaurant taking over a previous shop at the corner of 7th Street and Redondo Avenue, Knead Donuts & Tea is said to make some of the best fried Dough south of Los Angeles despite its unremarkable exterior.
Owned by the father-daughter team of Huey and Amy Behuynh, the elder on-site greeting guests Saturday morning, guests can expect a warm welcome from masked staff who are happy to explain a diverse selection of choices ranging from simple Yeast rings to Croissant Donuts tallying more than $5.
Selling six for $26 while Huey happily suggests a dozen to get one free, prices not dissimilar from Sidecar or Blue Star, first bites of Knead’s Fritter suggest serious issues as each bite seeped with oil, the Cruller sliced around Whip expectedly a lot lighter though in terms of flavor losing any sense of egginess to the Cream.
Hoping for better from “Kronuts,” the lamination on point but raw Granny Smith’s and near-liquid Caramel creating a sloppy bite as Apples ejected on all sides, Guava-Cheese thankfully fared better though the $5 cost for something no better than Randy’s or Spudnuts should be noted.
Better to be simple, a $5 Old Fashioned with Caramel and Sea Salt exactly as one would hope, Knead’s Blueberry Donut is admittedly a work of art thanks to lots of Fruit and unexpected lightness in the crumb plus natural tasting Glaze on top.
Family owned and operated since 1965 Jongewaard’s Bake n’ Broil is as close as it gets to “iconic” in Long Beach, many of Carol Jongewaard’s recipes even now in use across a menu featuring Comfort Food still sold at a reasonable price.
Brought to Atlantic Avenue by Carol and husband Roger, their children still in charge and Restaurant staff partially unchanged for three decades, guests arriving at Bake n’ Broil begin by putting their names on a waitlist, tables available within twenty minutes for most while others whiz in and out for Pastries available at the counter.
Open from 8:00am until 3:00pm daily, most of the savories unavailable until 11:00am, Coffee should be a pass for all but those willing to tolerate acrid drip while menu-advertised Skim Milk was apparently unavailable at 8:45 on a Saturday.
Known primarily as a Bakery, specials joining the daily offerings based on season, it was after a quick stop in the Microwave that two Muffins and a Cinnamon Roll were delivered, each with a ball of chilled Butter that proves necessary for moistening both of the former and all but the center of a glazed spiral.
Less sweet than usual across Carrot Cake as well as Pecan Pie, though in the case of the latter an inspired choice that ranks amongst the best of its kind, Quiche falls short due to insipid Crust plus a laughable side of flavorless Fruit while “Banana Walnut Pancakes” incorporate neither into the Batter and tries to sell Artificial Maple Syrup as acceptable by placing alongside a mountain of Whip.
Apple Crostata – Toasted Spelt and Sage Crust, Salted Whip
Considered to be one of Los Angeles’ quintessential Restaurants since 2017 Rossoblu has managed to succeed despite a humble backstory, Chef Steve Samson’s childhood summers in Bologna combining with his love of Southern California in an industrial Dining Room with service that is casual yet thoroughly charming.
Currently with a covered outdoor patio during mask mandates, vaccine-cards checked before being offered a table between large murals and a golden bar, Rossoblu immediately feels high end despite modest pricing that extends from Wine to Food including everything from handmade Pasta to Samson’s “Superfine Pizza.”
An homage of sorts to Emilia-Romagna, the menu well-edited and prone to change, decisions do not come easy in terms of how to order, though Valbruna’s Eggplant proves worthy of its signature status as gently cooked slices dance amidst what might otherwise be a very competent Caprese.
Lower in terms of volume than other LA eateries though music turns up as sun goes down, the Rossoblu Bread Basket is adequate albeit a bit pricey with Anchovy Butter outpacing the other two Condiments and slices better saved for scarpetta of Sauces such as Bechamel brightened by Citrus atop Baked Fazzoetti.
Dedicating a section of the menu “en Brodo,” mixed Pork inside Tortellini better than most in Italy thanks to Broth that is clean and clear, Pizza here eats far better than from the Superfine window as crust forms a robust cornicione around bright Sauce, mixed Onions, Smoked Mozz, Mushrooms and Garlic.
A mix of local and imported ingredients, “Olimpia’s Tagliatelle” standing out thanks to al dente ribbons and just enough Bolognese made from whole animals butchered downstairs plus “dry-aged Beef Fat,” be sure not to overlook thicker Maltagliati as a canvas to Pioppini Mushrooms, Saba and bitter Greens.
Keeping Dessert simple, no fancy plating for the #gram, Rossoblu’s Apple Crostata falls short of others as a result of Apples too firm and room-temperature service while Olive Oil Cake with a sugared top is toothsome yet delicate and good on its own, but better dragged through creamy Ricotta.
