Geoélia
2023 Bastian Beny “Tutto Beny”
Poached Oyster, Espelette / Lettuce, Anchovy, Parmesan
Cockles, Spicy Broth
Sea Snail, Buckwheat
Buckwheat Bread, Grey Shrimp Butter
Butter Braised Ile de France Cabbage, Seaweed, Ossetra Caviar
Sweetbreads, Perigueux Sauce, Artichoke Heart, Black Truffle
Blue Breton Lobster, Potatoes, Basil
Milk Ice Cream, Plums flambeed in Eau de Vie
70% Sao Tome Chocolate, Cascara, Cocoa Nibs
Pear, Almond Cream, Eau-de-vie Sorbet
Galette Bretonne, Quince, Mandarin, Pear
Open for not even a year Geoélia resides not far from the Eiffel Tower in the 16th arrondissement, and inside a cozy room Chef Camille Saint-M’leux is quickly gaining notice for food that trends rich but restrained, traditional but viewed through a new lens.
Awarded 1* from Michelin after a year at Montreuil, a recognition recently repeated upon Geoélia just ten months in, Saint-M’leux’s training includes the likes of Alain Solivérès at Le Taillevent and Christian Le Squer of Le Cinq.
A native of Brittany, Geoélia a nod to his family’s boat, Seafood takes a primary focus with diners offered the choice of two Tasting Menus or an extensive a la carte menu focused on some of the Chef’s signatures.
A heavy room with white walls velvet banquettes, curtains covering tall windows while two chandeliers offer light, it was with a fair priced glass biodynamic White Wine that amuses entailed citrusy Poached Oysters and Lettuce leaves with Anchovis plus toasted Bread before a bowl of Cockles in modestly-spiced Broth.
Opting for a la carte, Sea Snails with Buckwheat Pancakes one last surprise before receiving piping hot Bread with Butter infused by Grey Shrimps, a starter of buttered Cabbage found itself offering myriad textures amidst Seaweed and Beurre Blanc with a big spoon of Caviar on top.
Greedy for one of Geoélia’s primary plates as the other starter, a sizeable sweetbread atop a half artichoke with Sauce Périgueux every bit as indulgent as it sounds, the night’s primary plate was Saint-M’leux’s Breton Blue Lobster sealed in glass and cooked with Potatoes, Basil and buttery fortified Sauce.
Next cleansing the palate with Plums flambeed in Eau de Vie over Ice Cream, as good as the Kirsch Ice Cream at Plénitude, Desserts saw both Pear Puff Pastry and a Dark Chocolate Tart deliver a leson in textures before finishing with Petit Fours including Galette Bretonne.
www.geoelia.com
