Le Louis XV-Alain Ducasse à l’Hôtel de Paris, Monte Carlo MC

Le Louis XV

2024 Pascal Jolivet Sancerre Sauvage

Olive cracker, squash blossom cracker

Fennel pollen tart, Broad bean salad, Octopus and beet croquet, Sardine tartlet, Noodles and nettles

Sourdough Bread, Butter, Salt, Olive Oil, Pepper

Shrimp, Grilled Kiwi, Uni

Oyster, Honey, Champagne, Espelette

CITRUS, HAZELNUT, RED MULLET – Citrus, hazelnut with makrut lime oil, red mullet from our coasts in its natural way and charred

ARTICHOKE, SEA ANEMONE, CAVIAR – Artichoke from Provence ‘alla giudea’, Olivier Bardoux sea anemone, burrata, caviar

WHITE ASPARAGUS, BERGAMOT, JOHN DORY Barely-cooked white asparagus and chinotto, confit Mediterranean John Dory and heads ‘pil pil’

GREEN PEA, SAMPHIRE, LAMB Green pea bulgur, samphire and murex, lamb from Quercy in the fireplace

Lamb Liver Ravioli, Peas

Blood Orange, Campari

Bread Ice Cream, Yeast, Seeds

‘SALAT TRADITION’ CHEESE

BABA, VANILLA, ORANGE Baba with rum agricole HSE VSOP, vanilla and orange peel, half whipped Chantilly

RHUBARB, KAMPOT PEPPER, SAUTERNES Rhubarb soufflé, Kampot pepper and Sauternes foam

Pandoro

Bergamot, Grapefruit, Orange, Lemon

Lime Chocolate, Thai Basil Chocolate

Alain Ducasse, now 69, was only thirty-three years old when Le Louis XV became the first Hotel restaurant to be awarded three Michelin stars, and since that time the Chef and this room just off the entry of l’Hôtel de Paris has been synonymous with luxury.

Currently toqued by Emmanuel Pilon, a native of Lyon who has been with Ducasse since 2009 and leading Le Louis XV since 2022, food takes on the Mediterranean with an embrace of seasonality while service led by Claire Sonnet is faultless whether one is wearing Richard Mille and Dior or blue haired in military boots.

Booked for dinner as opposed to lunch, similar Tasting Menus and a la carte options save for the discounted daytime offering, “Agape” features five proper courses plus Cheese, Amuses and Mignardises for €420 while “Jardin” caters to Vegetarians for €290.

A mix of Ducasse classics and Pilon’s creativity, Sancerre proving well-suited to seasonal Citrus, razor-thin Crackers begin the evening followed by five nibbles from which a shimmering Sardine Tartlette and fried Beets with Octopus were highlights.

A well-paced meal in such a grand room, with no detail overlooked, Bread and good Butter is plentiful whether one prefers Baguette, Sourdough or Fougasse in two flavors prior to an Amuse of honeyed Oysters or sweet raw Shrimp beneath grilled Kiwi foam.

Fully committed to the Riviera’s unique terroir, charred Mullet with Lime, Lemon and Hazelnuts in a velvety Potage the first proper plate, Pilon’s signature “Artichoke, Sea Anemone, Caviar” earns its accolades by way of sharply contrasting textures including a core of creamy Burrata.

Leaning into early Spring next with White Asparagus and line-caught John Dory beneath a blanket of white, its subtle flavors setting up nicely for lightly cooked Lamb in its own Jus with natural salinity added by Samphire and Offal Ravioli spooned on later as an added surprise.

Turning things over from here to Pastry Chef Sandro Micheli, bracing Sorbet followed by a plated Cheese Course with Quince and Salad, Bread Ice Cream soon gives way to a choice of Desserts including Ducasse’s famous Baba or Rhubarb Soufflé infused with Sauternes and modernity.

Not done yet, a Coffee and Tea trolley following Pandoro sliced tableside, seasonal Citrus again finds itself featured first in four different Jellies and then at the center of handmade Chocolates before guests are presented with a complimentary loaf of Pandoro and menu to take home.

www.montecarlosbm.com/fr/restaurant-monaco/le-louis-xv-alain-ducasse-hotel-de-paris

Posted in Alain Ducasse, Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Le Louis XV, Le Louis XV-Alain Ducasse, Le Louis XV-Alain Ducasse à l'Hôtel de Paris, Monaco, Monte Carlo, Octopus, Souffle, Tasting Menu, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

L’Épi d’Or, La Condamine MC

Boulangerie l’Epi d’Or

Pain au Chocolat, Canele

Paris Brest

Grande Fougasse Monegasque

Located at the junction of Monaco-Ville and La Condamine a visit to L’Épi d’Or sees guests greeted by warm hospitality and an array of Pastries good enough for the Prince, as proudly displayed on window signage facing the entrance.

Independently owned for over sixty years, a third generation of the Pani family now responsible for loaves, Viennoiserie and Choux, midday arrival found a Pain au Chocolate par to those in Paris while soggy Canele fell far short of those in Bordeaux.

Taking a chance on Paris Brest, correct shape and texture needlessly muddling the flavor of Hazelnuts with a Cream layer, anyone visiting should be sure to lay down €6 for a large Monegasque Fougasse loaded with floral notes, Almonds, Pralines and Anise.

Posted in Boulangerie l'Epi d'Or, Coffee, Dessert, Food, l'Epi d'Or, La Condamine, Monaco, Monte Carlo, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Boulangerie Mamiche (32 Rue du Château d’Eau,) Paris FR

Mamiche

Pain Aux Raisins

Cinnamon Roll

Chouquette

Chocolate Loaf

Opened in 2017 by Victoria Effantin and Cécile Khayat Boulangerie Mamiche has now expanded to three locations, their space in the 10th frequently sporting a line of locals and tourists in search of rustic Breads and Viennoiserie including the Cinnamon Roll several consider to be Paris’ best.

Not constrained by local customs, a Babka or Maritozzo happily sharing space with airy Chouquettes piped with Vanilla Cream, staff is young and vibrant yet effective at moving guests along with every item carefully packed.

Known for on-site production using quality Ingredients, a Valrhona-chocolate imbued Roll with good chew and surprising levity, fans of Pain Aux Raisins will find Mamiche’s “Escargot” far superior to Du Pain & Idées at less cost while the Cinnamon Roll is indeed a masterpiece thanks to limited Sugar which lets good Butter carry bold aromatics to greater heights.

www.mamiche.fr

Posted in Boulangerie Mamiche, Boulangerie Mamiche 32 Rue du Château d'Eau, Dessert, Food, France, Mamiche, Mamiche 32 Rue du Château d'Eau, Paris, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Du Pain et des Idées, Paris FR

Du Pain & Idées

Sacristain

Pan Suisse

Escargot Chocolat-Pistache

Almond Croissant

Housed in a 19th century Bakery just off Canal Saint-Martin Du Pain et des Idées has been serving the city of lights since 2002, and thanks to social media Christophe Vasseur’s Escargot Chocolat-Pistache has become something of an icon in the age of Instagram.

Occupying a large corner, original painted ceilings and a wood-burning oven suggesting an era long before Tweets and Tik-Toks, it is once inside that guests will find an abundance of Breads and Viennoiserie offered by the mostly unengaging staff.

Visited on a Thursday with no lines, prices nearly double those of nearby Mamiche, a four-part order was procured quickly for €24, the Almond Croissant a flat disaster both literally and figuratively while thw famed swirl can be found better at Maison Julien.

Improving the lamination with a Pan Suisse, basic but satisfying, Du Pain et des Idées best bites come from an elongated baton dubbed Sacristain that crunches before giving way to layers of Butter, Sugar and delicate Pastry Cream.

www.dupainetdesidees.com

Posted in Breakfast, Croissant, Croissants, Dessert, Du Pain & Idées, Du Pain et des Idées, Food, France, Paris, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Geoélia, Paris FR

Geoélia

2023 Bastian Beny “Tutto Beny”

Poached Oyster, Espelette / Lettuce, Anchovy, Parmesan

Cockles, Spicy Broth

Sea Snail, Buckwheat

Buckwheat Bread, Grey Shrimp Butter

Butter Braised Ile de France Cabbage, Seaweed, Ossetra Caviar

Sweetbreads, Perigueux Sauce, Artichoke Heart, Black Truffle

Blue Breton Lobster, Potatoes, Basil

Milk Ice Cream, Plums flambeed in Eau de Vie

70% Sao Tome Chocolate, Cascara, Cocoa Nibs

Pear, Almond Cream, Eau-de-vie Sorbet

Galette Bretonne, Quince, Mandarin, Pear

Open for not even a year Geoélia resides not far from the Eiffel Tower in the 16th arrondissement, and inside a cozy room Chef Camille Saint-M’leux is quickly gaining notice for food that trends rich but restrained, traditional but viewed through a new lens.

Awarded 1* from Michelin after a year at Montreuil, a recognition recently repeated upon Geoélia just ten months in, Saint-M’leux’s training includes the likes of Alain Solivérès at Le Taillevent and Christian Le Squer of Le Cinq.

A native of Brittany, Geoélia a nod to his family’s boat, Seafood takes a primary focus with diners offered the choice of two Tasting Menus or an extensive a la carte menu focused on some of the Chef’s signatures.

A heavy room with white walls velvet banquettes, curtains covering tall windows while two chandeliers offer light, it was with a fair priced glass biodynamic White Wine that amuses entailed citrusy Poached Oysters and Lettuce leaves with Anchovis plus toasted Bread before a bowl of Cockles in modestly-spiced Broth.

Opting for a la carte, Sea Snails with Buckwheat Pancakes one last surprise before receiving piping hot Bread with Butter infused by Grey Shrimps, a starter of buttered Cabbage found itself offering myriad textures amidst Seaweed and Beurre Blanc with a big spoon of Caviar on top.

Greedy for one of Geoélia’s primary plates as the other starter, a sizeable sweetbread atop a half artichoke with Sauce Périgueux every bit as indulgent as it sounds, the night’s primary plate was Saint-M’leux’s Breton Blue Lobster sealed in glass and cooked with Potatoes, Basil and buttery fortified Sauce.

Next cleansing the palate with Plums flambeed in Eau de Vie over Ice Cream, as good as the Kirsch Ice Cream at Plénitude, Desserts saw both Pear Puff Pastry and a Dark Chocolate Tart deliver a leson in textures before finishing with Petit Fours including Galette Bretonne.

www.geoelia.com

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, France, Geoélia, Ice Cream, Lobster, Paris, Sweetbread, Sweetbreads, Truffle, Truffles, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Table, Paris FR

Table Bruno Verjus

2018 Domaine Comtesse de Cherisey La Genelotte Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru

Garden, Bottarga

Lobster Tart

Oyster, Kiwi

Sea Bass, Miso

White Asparagus, Smoked Roe

Turbot, Fish Soup

Moussestage

Gamba Roja, Uni

Pigeon, Broccoli

Cheese, Salad

Peas, Cream

Chocolate Tart, Caviar

Olive, Madeline

Pink Praline, Shortbread

Currently ranked #8 on the San Pellegrino List, no small feat for a self-taught Chef whose past-lives included medicine, author, food critic and entrepreneur, Bruno Verjus remains one of Paris’ top names nearly thirteen years after opening his Restaurant “Table.”

Awarded his second Michelin star in 2022, an accolade retained until now even as prices for the daily Tasting Menu have doubled from pre-pandemic, it is inside the simple green-awning space that guests will find a curved metal bar surrounding the kitchen where each plate is made from scratch at lunch and dinner.

Booking just four diners for Wednesday lunch service, frankly unheard of for top-tables in Paris, a choice of seats was offered and after inquiring about allergies or intolerances the heavy-hitter Wine list was perused to the tune of three €40 glasses of 2018 Domaine Comtesse de Cherisey La Genelotte Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru.

Eschewing all the luxuries of Alain Ducasse or Guy Savoy, though linens and high-quality stemware show Verjus understands what matters, it is while watching plates come together that guests are spoken to with warmth by staff who truly seem to value feedback.

Starting with “Colours of the Day,” varied Herbs and Vegetables lightly dressed amidst Bottarga, course two entails three bites from which an Oyster crowned by Kiwi proved to be one of the meal’s highlights.

A zealot for seasonal products, sliced White Asparagus allowed to shine in a buttery Sauce with smoke Roe, Verjus’ time in Asia shows in lightly cooked Turbot bathing in a pool of Fish Soup brightened by Seaweed and hints of Soy.

Priced on par with spots like Louis XV and Plénitude, a fact one cannot ignore when faced with a dish like “Moussestage” that is essentially Herb Soup, Gamba Roja with Uni beg question what the Green Star means since neither are local, though the dish and its follow-up Pigeon are both very good.

Eschewing mis en place, only a curated Cheese Course showing any semblance of assemblage while everything else is prepared to order, pre-Dessert of Peas and Cream proves a nice setup to the unwavering finale of a Caper-infused Dark Chocolate Tart with Caviar and warm Madelines dipped in Kardamili Olive Oil.

www.table.paris

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, France, Lobster, Paris, Table - Bruno Verjus, Table Bruno Verjus, Table by Bruno Verjus, Tasting Menu, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Ritz Paris Le Comptoir Sèvres, Paris FR

Ritz Paris Le Comptoir

Ritz au Lait Caramel

Chocolate Madeline

Caramel Madeline

Raspberry Madeline

Lemon Madeline

Offering the sort of service and quality one might expect of the Ritz a stop at 45 Rue de Sèvres should be compulsory for anyone taking a trip to La Grande Épicerie de Paris, the second Ritz Paris Le Comptoir offering all the best parts of the original without any of the pomp and circumstance of the hotel.

Not far from the Metro or Bon Marché, with luxury shopping including the likes of Hermes and Berluti nearby, it is from charming servers that guests are offered Mille Feuille and Entremets plus six “Melting Heart” Madelines that would have likely made Proust weep tears of joy.

Taken to go, a Rice Pudding Tart crowned with a wedge of Milk Chocolate shaken up but absolutely stunning a few hours later, one would be hard-pressed to decide whether Raspberry or Caramel was the better Madeline, though either compares favorably to Christophe Louie as the best in town.

www.ritzparislecomptoir.com

Posted in Dessert, Food, France, Madeline, Madelines, Paris, Ritz Paris Le Comptoir, Ritz Paris Le Comptoir Sèvres, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Blé Sucré, Paris FR

Blé Sucré

Almond Croissant, Pain au Raisin

Paris Brest

Canele, Kouign Amann

Favored by many as one of Paris’s top Patisseries a visit to Blé Sucré finds former Michelin 3* Pastry Chef Fabrice Le Bourdat operating in more humble environs, a space with Candies and Packaged Goods quite the departure from Le Bristol.

Visited early on a Wednesday, one of two small tables outside available to sit away from rain, choices trend traditional from Madelines to Viennoiserie including a fairly good Pain au Raisin and Almond Croissant free of Frangipane.

Celebrated for his Kouign Amann, less tightly formed than others but certainly not lacking for Butter or Sugar, Canele lack the expected crisp exterior while Blé Sucré’s “Brest” lacks the signature shape and would better be called a Hazelnut Religeuse instead.

Posted in Blé Sucré, Breakfast, Canele, Croissant, Croissants, Dessert, Food, France, Paris, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Plénitude, Paris FR

Plénitude

SANCERE

GRILLED OYSTER, CHAMPAGNE, CUCUMBER

SHRIMP CRACKER

RUBY RED TUNA TART, TRUFFLE

SPRING VEGETABLES, YUZU

WHELK, SHISO

BREAD, BUTTER

MARKET’S GARDENER PARTITION FOR COULIS MARBRE “AMPLITUDE”

ANCHOVY BREAD

ANCHOVY, LEEK, MARIGOLD FOR VELOUR’S “EDEN”

BLUE FISH, LEEK, MARIGOLD FOR VELOUR’S “EDEN”

BLUE LOBSTER, ARTICHOKE, ROSEMARY FOR SABAYON “BUISSON DIVIN”

TURBOT, FENNEL, CAVIAR FOR BOUILLION “SONGE ANISĖ”

RED MULLET, TORTELLINI, SEA URCHIN FOR FUMET DE ROCHE “OCRE TANNIQUE”

APPLE SORBET, CALVADOS

POULTRY, VIROFLAY, TRUFFLE FOR CREME MABREE “TERRA BOTANICA”

LEMON

ROSE D’AGRUMES, FRESH AND CANDIED GRAPEFRUIT, ALEP PETALS, ALOE VERA FOR SAUCE PECTINEE ET CONDIMENTEE “PERLE D’ENDOCARPE”

KIWI, PRALINE TARTE

VANILLA KIRSCH ICE CREAM

TAKE HOME

Exuding all the opulence one might expect from the LVMH owned Cheval Blanc it occupies dinner at Plenitude is a lesson in luxury, the sort of place where eye-popping prices and tables booked eight months in advance seem justified by everything from a room overlooking Pont Neuf to service that is effortlessly enjoyable yet able to educate, appease and adjust on the fly.

Opened in 2021 and awarded three Michelin stars within seven months, an almost unheard of accomplishment maintained through the recently released 2026 guide, guests are led on arrival to posh seats in a beige room, but not before a walk through the tremendous Wine cellar carved from a single block of wood.

Toqued by Chef Arnaud Donckele and Pastry Chef Maxime Frédéric, the former building each plate around Sauces that are thrust into the spotlight, service is coordinated by restaurant director Alexandre Larvoir whose mostly youthful staff is professional yet amicable and frequently jovial.

An orchestrated affair, the choice of Tasting Menu or A la Carte seeing most opt for the former, Wine occupies every pricepoint with a €22 glass of Sancere chosen by Emmanuel Cadieu more than holding its own against Canapes including Donckele’s Truffle Tart, Shrimp Cracker and delicate warm Oyster.

Offered as five “courses,” though in reality eighteen different dishes are served in addition to several types of Bread with Butter, wrapped Spring Vegetables next give way to a skewered Whelk with Shiso before Plénitude’s own interpretation of Le Gargouillou with brightness added by Soy and Mango.

Asked to taste all Sauces before and during their associated plates, “Eden’s” Fennel and Tarragon dancing first with a skin-on Sardine then Blue Fish, this thick Sauce is but a taste of things to come as Donckele’s Sabayon enriched by Lobster Coral and Artichoke forms something of a cloud around faultless Blue Lobster from Brittany.

Not forgetting Frédéric’s Bread, one stuffed with Squash and another rich with Anchovies happy to sop up any Sauce not sipped or eaten with a spoon, Turbot cooked low and slow sees collagen perfectly melted into Bouillion bright with Anise prior to Mullet in a rich Fumet of Urchin, Marrow, Liver and Cognac.

Offered a visit to the kitchen, greetings from Chef Arnaud followed by Apple Sorbet eaten in an alcove while watching the kitchen team at work, it is upon return to the table that a main course of Chicken is elevated above simple poultry by Truffles and Basil first on the Breast and then the Wing.

Reluctantly skipping the Cheese cave for lack of capacity, a citrus sipper offered instead, Frédéric’s Dessert offers Grapefruit on Meringue in a Rose Petal-infused Gelatin prior to the tableside presentation of Petit Fours highlighted by Vanilla Kirsch Ice Cream.

Dialed in on every detail, even a disruptive diner near the window handled with impeccable discretion and grace, it is after settling the bill that guests are walked to the door with a bag of Bread, housemade Dressing and flowers for the ladies as an added touch.

www.chevalblanc.com/en/maison/paris/restaurants-and-bars/plenitude/

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, France, Ice Cream, Lobster, Paris, Plénitude, Tasting Menu, Truffle, Truffles, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Tapisserie, Paris FR

Tapisserie

Mont-Blanc, Maple Syrup Tarte, Caramel Apple Almond Cake, Honey Madeline

Owned and operated by Chef Bertrand Grébaut Tapisserie is described as a “living” Pastry Shop, its location just a few hundred meters from Septime offering no seating but a collection of Cakes and Pastries produced on-site daily.

Following the brand’s micro-seasonal ethos, all flours stone-ground from organic farms while Produce, Dairy and Eggs come from ethical sources, it is inside the small space that guests will find Coffee, Flan and Viennoiseries alongside rustic items like a weighty Cake of Caramel Apples plus oversized Madelines sticky with Honey.

Baked in small batches, shelves at 14h30 featuring several Tarts, fans of Mont-Blanc will find the Chestnut Cream rich atop a delicate Sponge while Tapisserie’s Maple Syrup Tarte bests any tasted from Vancouver to Montreal beneath a gob of freshly Whipped Cream.

www.tapisserie-patisserie.fr

Posted in Dessert, Food, France, Madeline, Madelines, Paris, Tapisserie, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Septime, Paris FR

Septime

Infusion citron, thyme, pomme

Gin and Tonic

Bouillon de légumes, oignons fumés

Gougères aux épices douces

Tartare d’agneau de lait, crudités

Verdures, jaune d’œuf confit, barigoule

Endive, savagnin, poire, truffe

Bread

Lotte, bouillabaisse, salade de pomme de terre

Crème caramel de champignons, truffe

Currently rated 40th on the W50b list Septime remains a difficult reservation for good reason, Chef Bertrand Grébaut’s time at Arpège translated to a five course tasting plus extras that changes daily for just €85 at lunch.

Fully booked at precisely 10h00 three-weeks in advance, just as it has been for more than a decade, arrival at 80 Rue de Charonne finds the green-fronted bistro largely indistinguishable from those surrounding while an interior of concrete and wood is neither exciting nor particularly comfortable.

At one point part of the “Bistronomy” movement, but now perhaps best considered a Micro-seasonal experience right down to its beverages, guests are invited to begin with Aperitifs well-suited to deeply flavored Onion Broth and signature Gougeres served piping hot with bold spicing.

Served at a leisurely pace by educated servers, though not the sort prone to over-explaining, proper courses begin with puffy Bread alongside housemade Labneh and Milk-fed Lamb Tartare before progressing to a green Salad with Egg Yolk dressed in White Wine, Olive Oil, and Garlic.

Next taking advantage of local winter Truffles, smartly sandwiched between caramelized Endive with Pears and hints of Wine, Bread is offered to sop up all the Sauce and replenished to do the same with Monkfish in complex Bouillabaisse.

Not a place where one is prone to go hungry, all portions substantial including a Potato Salad offered with the Fish, Dessert on this day saw classic Crème caramel spun earthy with Mushrooms and another generous shaving of Tuber melanosporum that played well the nearly-burnt Sugar.

www.septime-charonne.fr

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, France, Paris, Septime, Tasting Menu, Truffle, Truffles, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Pleincoeur, Paris FR

Pleincoeur

Apple kouign amann

Rice pudding feuilette

Pain suisse

Vanilla sugar tart

A native of Normandy, where his dairy farming family and Grandmother’s love of baking sparked an early flame, it was under the tutelage of Cédric Grolet and time at George V that Maxime Frédéric rapidly ascended the ranks, his toque now taking the lead at Michelin 3* Plenitude, Louis Vuitton Cafe at LV Dream and all baking at Cheval Blanc plus Pleincoeur bakery out in the 17th.

Recently named San Pellegrino’s 2025 “World’s Best Pastry Chef,” his decision to open Pleincoeur with his wife a year prior debuting Frédéric’s considerable skills to an entirely new audience, it is inside warm environs that guests will find Tarts, Entremets and Viennoiserie as affordable as €2.

Importing several Ingredients including Milk and Eggs from Normandy, the Coffee Bolivian single-origin, those attune to sourcing can expect no expenses spared from Cakes to Loaves, though those in the know will immediately gravitate to Pleincoeur’s Kouign Amann that somehow maintains its brisk caramelization despite abundant Apples within.

Part of Batignolles, far from the white tablecloths of Paris’s top tables, additional Pastries eaten at an outside table should include Maxime’s laminated Feuilette filled with Riz au Lait, layered Pain Suisse and Sugar Tart that eats like a cloud of Brioche intensely perfumed with Vanilla.

www.pleincoeur.com

Posted in Breakfast, Dessert, Food, France, Maxime Frédéric, Paris, Pleincoeur, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Vaisseau Adrien Cachot, Paris FR

Vaisseau

Fig Kombucha

Mushroom broth, Quail egg in Vinegar

Horseradish Tartlet, Shell/Lime, Fried veal brain/Magic sauce, Mimolette/Coffee, Beetroot/Smoked oil, Chiffon cake/Liver mousse, Leek/Pistachio miso, Carrot/Harissa, Radicchio/Mock sesame, White pepper meringue

Scallop/Tapioca/XO/Tripe

Focaccia

Mochi Caccio e Pepe

Low Gluten Bread/Black Tea Butter

Olive oil Hake/Beurre blanc Yuzu Kosho

Black pepper Beef Heart/Beetroot

Mature Cheddar/Jalapeno Sorbet/Breadcrumbs

Chocolate/Mushroom Ice Cream/Parsley

Ginger Tart, Milk/Rum and saffron/Pastis candy/Mochi de gazelle/Cédrat cracker

Beginning in Michelin rated kitchens at the age of fourteen Adrien Cachot is more then just a former Top Chef finalist, and at Vaisseau in the 11th arrondissement he seeks to rethink the tasting menu as a surprise performance.

Awarded his first Star in the 2025 guide, time at Perchoir Ménilmontant refining skills that anchor a seemingly boundless imagination, it is inside Cachot’s “Vessel” that guests turn themselves over to the Chef’s whim with no dish explained until after eating and thus freeing the experience from external influence or expectations.

Dressed in all matte black and spotlights, servers happily going all-in on the idea that “anything goes,” guests are invited to choose between two menus with the former Cachot’s “classics” and the more expensive for returning guests eager to see new ideas.

Expressing no allergies or intolerances, a propensity for Offal well-known to any familiar with Adrien’s background, Kombucha proves well-suited to starters arriving in an nine-part flurry embracing an array of tastes, textures, temperatures and spice levels.

Technique-driven but not afraid to dabble in modernism, a nearly-raw Scallop overlying the yin-and-yang of delicate Tapioca versus Tripe in XO Sauce seeing each bite offer something new, Cachot’s signature “Mochi Caccio e Pepe” is a lot of fun, though probably not quite as good as well-made Gnocchi dressed the same.

Served two types of Bread with dinner, the Focaccia fairly typical while a low-gluten Sourdough with “Black Tea Butter” was more for show than taste, Hake as a disc reminisced of Geranium in presentation but with more assertive flavor prior to a final savory featuring peppered Heart and Beets.

Next incorporating Jalapeno Ice Cream in the Cheese Course, still less surprising than bracingly bitter Coffee as part of the amuse, Dessert places a crumbled “plastic cup” made of Sugar amidst textural elements and Mushroom Ice Cream before Petit Fours again willing to take chances.

www.restaurant-vaisseau.com

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Les Trois Chocolats, Paris FR

Les Trois Chocolats

Chouchou

Chocolates

Founded by Japanese chocolatier Choco a visit to Les Trois Chocolats sees an austere shop in the 4th offering confections from Emiko Sano and Sho Kimura.

Open from 11h00 until 18h00 Thursday through Monday, late arrivals likely to find most of the Patisserie sold out, flavors favor Asian ingredients such as Lychee and Yuzu with Raspberry on a Tart titled Chouchou while BonBons run the gamut from pure Chocolate to Raspberry, Matcha and Sesame.

www.les3chocolats.paris

Posted in Dessert, Food, France, Les Trois Chocolats, Paris, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Restaurant Le Gabriel, Paris FR

Le Gabriel

TEMPERA Eterna I

Tempura Frog Leg, Parsley Mayonnaise

Puff Potato, Paprika

Oyster, Hazelnut, Citrus

Pork Tart, Apple, Caviar

Buckwheat Sourdough, Brittany Butter

Confit Salmon, Miso, Sweet Potato, Grapefruit, Crispy Grains, Pepper

John Dory, Green Beans, Seaweed, John Dory Nettle Fume

Pigeon from Brittany, Turnip, Pigeon Offal Ravioli, Pigeon Consomee

Chocolate and Vanilla, Isigny Cream, Miso Ice Cream

Black Forest Birthday Cake

Yuzu Sable, Coffee Ganache, Chocolate Truffle with Puffed Rice Praline

Housed in La Réserve, a former 19th century mansion gilded in gold and soft leather, Le Gabriel received it’s 3rd Michelin star in 2024 and remains to this day the most recent Restaurant in Paris to earn the guide’s highest accolade.

Owned by Michel Reybier since its 2015 opening, a focus on timeless luxury from the suites to dining options, guests entering La Réserve will find pleasant staff ready to guide them to Le Gabriel’s grand room where 1-to-1 service oversees just a handful of tables.

Posh yet authentic, a style well-suited to Chef Jérôme Banctel’s internationally-nuanced cooking, diners are invited to choose from one of three menus including a la carte with the lunch a veritable bargain based entirely on daily Ingredients.

Born in Brittany, Canapes including a delicate Frog’s Leg and Souffled Potato giving way to a plump Oyster and complex tart crowned in Caviar, Bread arrives almost too hot to eat with a sizeable round of golden-yellow Butter.

Meticulous in terms of construction, Banctel’s plating focused on contrast across three proper “courses,” the daily amuse found slow-cooked Salmon lightly dressed in Miso adjacent assertive acid and spots of heat in a way reminiscent of Pierre Gagnaire.

Generous in portions and gracious in service, a pour of mineral-forward sparkling Samphire well-suited to John Dory surrounded by Chlorophyll, Brittany Pigeon arrives in two parts with a third added mid-course adjacent bundled Radish in a deep and complex Sauce.

Perhaps “safer” than some 3* spots, though in no way stuffy, Dessert explores Chocolate and Vanilla in three parts before thoughtful touches like an occasion Cake with candle and Petit Fours round out an experience justifying Le Gabriel’s place amongst France’s top tables.

www.lareserve-paris.com/restaurants-bars/restaurant-le-gabriel

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Maxime Frédéric chez Louis Vuitton, Paris FR

Café Maxime Frédéric at Louis Vuitton

Iced Vanilla Latte

Pear Charlotte

Vanilla Dream

Chocolate BonBons

Regardless of one’s opinions regarding Bernard Arnault there is no doubt that the CEO of LVMH understands his target audience, and above the “Louis Vuitton Art Deco” exhibition at LV Dream guests overlooking the Seine are invited to indulge in the work of 2025’s “World’s Best Pastry Chef” Maxime Frédéric.

Open from 11h00 until 19h00 daily, early arrival sporting a queue while later arrivals are encouraged to make a reservation, it is inside the second floor space that tropics meet luxury in an open and airy space with service that is friendly yet discreet.

Curated alongside a small boutique, most diners opting for Cakes or Tea service at premium prices, modernity takes center-stage as monograms are printed atop Latte Art for €12-14 while Entremets from the Pleincoeur and Plenitude Pastry savant are faultless in their design, texture and taste whether one selects his signature 3-Vanilla “Dream” or seasonal Charlotte.

www.us.louisvuitton.com/eng-us/point-of-sale/france/louis-vuitton-cafe-maxime-frederic

Posted in Café Maxime Frédéric at Louis Vuitton, Coffee, Dessert, Food, France, Maxime Frédéric, Maxime Frédéric at Louis Vuitton, Maxime Frédéric chez Louis Vuitton, Paris, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Jeffrey Cagnes (73 Rue Montorgueil,) Paris FR

Jeffrey Cagnes

Almond Croissant

Cinnamon Roll

Paris Brest

Saint Honore

Vanilla Flan

Established at a young age as the Executive Chef of Stohrer House, the oldest Patisserie in Paris, Jeffrey Cagnes opened his eponymous boutique in Paris’s 17th arrondissement mid-2021, expansion to the 2nd following publication of his first book making everything from Tarts to Viennoiserie more accessible to locals and tourists alike.

Known for an approach that limits Sugar to focus more on Nuts and top-tier Herbs and Spices, a tightly-wound Cinnamon Roll but one example, guests entering the shop on Rue Montorgueil will find staff a bit serious without a lot of smiles, though the collection is fairly easy to understand for those with even a slight grasp of the French language.

Frequently offering classes for aspiring Bakers, many praising Cagnes’ skill with Choux, fans of Saint Honore will swoon at the Vanilla version with delicate cream beneath intensely caramelized Sugar while a Paris Brest dresses up nicely without losing any of its essential aspects.

Less impressed by an Almond Croissant, double-baked with good structure but a bit too much Fragnipane, Cagnes’ Vanilla Flan takes a different approach than that of Christophe Louie by wrapping the faultless Custard in a rustic shell for contrast.

www.jeffreycagnes.fr

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Moonshiner, Paris FR

Moonshiner

Caffe Salentino – Banana Pastis, Coffee, Orgeat, Coconut Genmaicha

Hidden behind a walk-in fridge at the back of Pizza da Vito the team behind Dirty Dick presents Moonshiner, a Prohibition-era speakeasy with dim lighting and low-slung banquets perfect to settle in for some innovative or classic drinks.

Minimalist but somewhat art deco, the bar a tiny thing loaded with top-shelf Spirits, staff is friendly but well-versed in multiple languages while drinks trend affordable by comparison to similar concepts in Europe and the United States.

Whisky-centric with several interpretations of the Old Fashioned, though a simple Mezcal Margarita is also executed with skill, those seeking something truly unique should consider the “Caffe Salentino” which riffs on the Italian favorite with French nuances and lingering island notes.

www.moonshinerbar.fr

Posted in Coffee, France, Moonshiner, Paris, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Chez Paul, Paris FR

Chez Paul

French onion soup gratinated with Morbier cheese

Homemade counrtyside terrine, Basque peppers

Baguette

Pepper Steak flambé with Cognac

butter and gratin potatoes dauphinois

Homemade duck confit with garlic potatoes

Soy glazed Sweetbreads

Confit potatoes with onions

Floating island, grilled almonds and vanilla custard sauce

The famous caramelized Apple Tart Tatin with fresh cream

The traditional Rum Baba with chantilly

Part of Paris since the 1940s Chez Paul blends in with the local streets so seamlessly that most will walk by without notice, but since coming under ownership of the Karrenbauer family in 1998 the space at 13 Rue de Charonne has continued a proud tradition begun by Mr. and Mrs. Paul.

Small but comfortable thanks to red leather banquetes, a tiled floor beneath brass ceilings and walls full of art, it is from a paper ledger that reservations are confirmed prior to seating at wood tables that require being slid aside to gain access.

A locals sort of place, though the menu does offer English translations, fans of Bistro fare will find all the staples complimented by daily specials while the Wine list runs long yet quite affordable.

Well-suited to families, especially on Sundays when so few Parisian Restaurants are open all day, starters come in the form of Escargot or French Onion Soup plus sizable slabs of Foie Gras and the chunky sort of housemade Terrine one rarely encounters outside of France.

Far more affordable than tourist favorites, its place in the 11th undoubtedly part of the reason, main plates see Confit Duck done well without any fuss while Pepper Steak and Sweetbreads in reduced Soy are generous in terms of portion and flavor.

Not a spot to skip Dessert, all but Ice Cream made on site, Chez Paul’s Baba is denser than Ducasse’s but no less delicious while the Œufs à la neige and Tarte Tatin are each classics prepared the right way.

www.chezpaul.com

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MAISON, Paris FR

Maison Sota

2023 JEAN DAUGE Partie Fine

OCTOPUS, ALMOND

SQUID, FAVA BEAN

SARDINE, TUNA GARUM, TOMATO, NETTLE

RAZOR CLAM, KOJI, YOLK SAUCE, GARLIC LEAF

HOUSE SOURDOUGH, BUTTER FROM NORMANDY

SCALLOPS FROM SAINT MALO, RAW CREAM AND HORSERADISH, ARTICHOKE, KUMQUAT

STUFFED CELERIAC WITH SEA URCHIN AND SPINACH

WARM SALAD AND WHITE ASPARAGUS ALBUFERA SAUCE

LOBSTER FROM NOIRMOUTIER, LOBSTER HEAD SAUCE

GRILLED BRILL AND CHANTERELLES MUSHROOM

SALT BAKED GUINEA FOWL, CHERVIL, APPL

GUINEA FOWL LEG PITHIVIER, GIROLLES

KIWI SLUSH, CREAM, CURRANT

CHOCOLATE SABAYON AND BASIL ICE CREAM

PASSION FRUIT PATE DE FRUIT, BUCKWHEAT FINANCIER

TAKE HOME

Best known for his time at Clown Bar Sota Atsumi’s MAISON sees the Tokyo-born Chef cooking bold yet simple plates focused on market ingredients without any of the pretense associated with other Parisian Tasting Menu restaurants.

Housed in an industrial loft on La Rue Saint Hubert in the 11th arrondissement, and a rare fine dining establishment offering lunch on a Sunday, guests ascend stairs to a communal table and open kitchen where Sota and a small team work careful and quiet with a deliberate pace.

The only “House” on what is essentially an ally, with a mix of pop and rock playing from unseen speakers, dining begins with the presentation of well-priced Wines by the glass and suggestions for white that pairs well to most everything from bits of Octopus and Squid with Fava Beans to a marinated Sardine freshened by Nettles and Tomato distillate.

Impressing early with Razor Clam Rice slicked by Yolk, then transitioning to the listed menu with a still-quivering Scallop balancing Kumquat and Horseradish, earthy Celeriac somehow finds an amicable partner in Sea Urchin concealed in its envelope.

Proud to showcase spring with White Asparagus, something of a transitioning plate to faultless Blue Lobster beneath a Sauce of its innards, Guinea Fowl in two courses showcases the sort of skills one would expect from a Troisgros alumn from Breast to an Offal-fortified Pithivier.

Not yet starred by Michelin despite opening in 2019, the reasons for this inexplicable to an experienced diner, Dessert comes in three courses with frozen Kiwi atop a bracing base giving way to herbaceous Chocolate Sabayon and petit fours including a still-warm Financier.

www.maison-sota.com

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, France, Ice Cream, Lobster, Maison, Maison Sota, Maison Sota Atsumi, Octopus, Paris, Tasting Menu, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,