Informed by several fans that a visit in late 2017 was apparently poorly representative of Dee’s Donuts, statements about cloying Pie Filling and particularly unimpressive Chocolate Frosting apparently the most egregious claims, it was again on Friday that an opportunity presented to taste Dee’s product, several different selections and some from prior largely confirming a trend, particularly as relates to the low-quality Cocoa tasted atop not one but three different bases.
Once again complimentary of ownership, the man behind the counter of Dee’s lone remaining store in Centennial hard-working and genuinely pleasant, it was while still testing Chocolate that bites of the shop’s well-regarded Cruller were taken and in an almost humorous situation it suddenly seemed like someone was playing a joke, the same acrid Frosting somehow benefitting a ring that lacked the expected Custard-soft center and instead tasted largely like old Oil.
Making certain that this wasn’t a poor representation of Dee’s Cruller with a simple glazed version, the same overcooked center and greasy aftertaste confirmed, it was onward to a tried-and true Buttermilk Bar that the tasting moved on, this version actually even better than a Maple frosted version from prior and a strong contender for Las Vegas’ best while the duo of Old Fashioned Donuts also suggest that Dee’s frying temperature and duration are better suited to Cake Donuts than those that are raised.
Queuing up a few more favorites to finish, the Glazed Twist visibly oily on cross-section and not far off from the Crullers in terms of taste, it was actually a bit surprising that the Cinnamon Roll somehow managed to be light and fluffy despite its spiral, thoughts that it may be baked instead of fried crossing the mind before finishing up with a Fritter that was more greasy than last visit while the Blueberry Cake Donut is still completely artificial in terms of its ‘Fruit’ flavor, but at the same time pretty great.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Once again fairing somewhere between “Fair” and “Good,” a few great and awful items tilting the balance each way, it is fair to say Dee’s is a decent choice for those in the area and Donut lovers looking for a good Buttermilk Bar or Old Fashioned, but otherwise there are far better locally owned Donut shops in almost every part of town
RECOMMENDED: Buttermilk Bar, Blueberry Cake Donut, Old Fashioned.
AVOID: Any Chocolate Frosted Donut, Crullers, Yeast Twist.
TIP: Open 5a-7p weekdays and until 3pm on Weekends.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Having skipped a “Best of” list in 2016 for several reasons, not the least of which a general disgust with the rise of Instagram turning every store-bought Noodle-pull or visit to a lackluster Ice Cream shop that makes nothing on-site into a SAVAGE celebration of YASSSSSness, it was with a focus on artisans, craft and originality that 2017’s dining agenda was arranged. Here are the best meals and bites in the city I call home and Worldwide over the past 365 days.
Authentic Curry Chicken served with three Roti Pancakes
Curry Fish Balls
Curry Beef with Noodle Soup
Located on Spring Mountain Road, a street of constant turnover featuring approximately two-hundred eateries at any given time, it was in an intentional attempt to avoid Las Vegas Boulevard that New Year’s Eve was spent at Big Wong Restaurant, the casual Chinese spot located in the same plaza as the likes of Raku and Kabuto proving both affordable and appetizing in addition to offering surprisingly efficient service.
Originally opened in the middle of 2011 and largely unchanged in terms of decoration or menu over the intervening 6.5 years as judged by photographs, the interior clean and brightly lit with images of the Restaurant’s cuisine hanging on walls, guests entering Big Wong can expect to be greeted quickly by a man standing at the counter, his directions as to where to sit gauged by party size with a server quickly emerging to provide laminated menus.
Small in size and more limited in scope that other nearby Restaurants, the double-sided menu featuring some sixty choices largely revolving around items such as Chicken, Beef, Pork or Shrimp in a variety of preparations including a Starch and Curry or Soup, it was after being told that no Congee was available at 7:00pm that the decision was instead made to focus elsewhere, a total of three plates plus Rice, extra Noodles and Water tallying just $30.
Unsurprisingly not packed given the holiday, but still doing brisk take-out business to an almost universally Asian clientele, it was just as Water was refilled by request that plates came forth from the kitchen one after another, the portion-sizes about what one would expect for the area with the bowl of Curry Beef and Ramen easily enough to feed two given the ample amount of springy Noodles and tender braised Meat floating in a pool of Orange Broth.
Having not really paid attention to tablemate’s orders after being disappointed regarding the Rice Porridge, a second-choice of store-bought Fish Balls presented similar to the Beef but without Noodles for $1.50 less, it was atop a Soy-slicked scoop of Rice that the mild orbs made rich by Curry and Turmeric were enjoyed before turning attention to a smaller cup of boiled Chicken, the blend of Dark Meat and Breast well-cooked, juicy throughout and delicious whether on its own or atop crispy fried Roti.
THREE STARS: Not purporting to be anything it is not, but at the same time not nearly as diverse as much of its nearby competition, Big Wong Restaurant offers guests good Food at a fair price, though the fact that they cannot keep something as simple and cheap as Congee in-stock four-hours prior to closing seems fairly ridiculous.
RECOMMENDED: Curry Beef with Noodle Soup, Authentic Curry Chicken served with three Roti Pancakes.
AVOID: There are better Fish Balls to be had and no pan-seared Noodle dishes are available, just Soups.
TIP: 10a-11p daily at 5040 Spring Mountain Road.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Satriale Cold Sub – Salami, Ham, Provolone, Basil Pesto, Roasted Sweet Peppers, Shredded Lettuce, Marinated Tomato
1/2 Cheese and 1/2 Pepperoni Pizza
Fremont Street Pizza – House Italian Sausage, Banana Peppers, Cheddar, Mozzarella, Ricotta, Parmesan, White Garlic Sauce, Seasoned Bread Crumbs
Kahlúa Cake
Strawberry Shortcake
Cannoli
2017 was certainly a strange year for Christopher Palmeri, the sudden and unexpected shutter of Naked City Tavern a major disappointment to the Chef and his supporters but deals with both the Race Track and 51s plus a consulting job with Bacon Bar and Blue Diamond’s Naked City Express keeping he and brother Michael busy, it was on the final day of the year that nine guests sat down inside Naked City’s newest venture, a Restaurant inside Downtown Las Vegas’ El Cortez Casino.
Without doubt one of Sin City’s hardest working Chefs, a resume including Robuchon plus a period as Executive Chef on the Strip giving Palmeri both the skill and desire to do something more personal even before he turned Moon Doggies into a DDD-destination, it was on December 1st that Chris received the keys to El Cortez’s former Coffee Shop, he and his staff quickly converting the signage and slinging slices to those in the know ever since.
Located just off the gaming floor on the east side of the aged Casino on Fremont, a wide breadth of space and good ventilation thankfully keeping the interior fairly smokeless, it was moments prior to noon that the first guests arrived to find Christopher and his father busy preparing for a large New Year’s Eve catering gig, both taking a moment to say hello when the rest of the party arrived and checking in intermittently throughout the meal.
Offering several Naked City classics plus new items, a video board on the exterior wall and laminated menus inside joined by Cold Sandwiches, Desserts and Pizza by the Slice at the counter, it was deferring an order to the staff that Lunch began with Caprese Salad spears followed by a throwback Shrimp Cocktail, just $1.99 netting a whole lot of tender Shellfish atop shredded Lettuce plus Cocktail Sauce teaming with Horseradish.
Serving everything family-style, three sliced Stromboli loaded with Salami and melted Mozzarella plus a bowl of warm Marinara Sauce proving far better than The Four Kegs version made famous by Guy Fieri, it was as a replacement for Naked City Pizza’s Meatball Skillet that Chef next delivered two of “Grandma’s Meatball,” the $7.50 cost an absolute steal for what must have been a pound or more of nicely seasoned Beef in a pool of Sauce with toasted Bread and shaved Cheese.
Turning next to two Naked City Subs, this part of the menu as yet much smaller than at either Arville or Paradise, suffice it to say that either the $10.95 Chicken Parm or $9.95 Satriale is more than most will be able to finish on their own, the former double-stacked with breaded Breast Meat while its cold counterpart features sliced Salami, Ham and Cheese complimented by housemade Pesto, Peppers and Tomatoes brightened by Vinaigrette.
Accounting for two youths at the table with one $14.50 Cheese Pie half-topped in Cup n’ Char Pepperoni, Naked City at The El Cortez thus far only offering full-sheets or Slices, it was after tasting one crispy corner that attention shifted towards the new Fremont Street Pizza, Palmeri’s house-blend Italian Sausage adding its meaty flavor to a background of four Cheeses plus Garlic White Sauce, Banana Peppers and Breadcrumbs for added texture.
Opting to outsource Desserts save for Naked City’s textbook Cannolis thus far, Chef Douglas Taylor’s new gig at Jerry’s Nugget coming fully equipped with a bakeshop that the Mina and Batali alumnus hopes to use as a wholesale outlet to likeminded Restaurateurs, it was alongside nine crisp Shells piped with creamy filling that guests enjoyed white Sponge Cake layered in Strawberries and Cream before diving into moist Chocolate Cake wrapped with Ganache around thick ribbons of Kahlúa Cream, the present yet subtle Liquor giving each bite a Tiramisu-reminiscent finish.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: The realization of yet another goal for Christopher and Michael Palmeri, Naked City Pizza inside a Las Vegas Casino, fans will be delighted to now find their favorite slice plus some new ideas in a whole new part of town while out-of-towners can now get a taste of the locally born product they’ve seen on TV without venturing outside the major tourist corridor.
AVOID: For now only Slices and Full Sheets of Pizza are available as opposed to the three sizes offered at other locations.
TIP: 11a-2a daily inside The El Cortez at 600 East Fremont Street, but don’t forget the long-anticipated Buffalo Bills Playoff watch-party beginning 10am Sunday at all four Naked City locations.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Frequently visiting The Bellagio, a fondness for Le Cirque no secret, it was as a surprise for someone else that Dinner reservations were made at Jasmine on Saturday evening, the longstanding Cantonese fine-dining Restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the fountains proving as enjoyable as in the past with a five course Tasting Menu designed by a new Chef brought in from The Mansion at MGM.
Without doubt one of Las Vegas’s most elegant dining rooms, an almost entirely Chinese clientele and frequent visits by foreign high rollers dictating a menu that showcases both Cantonese classics and luxury ingredients at oftentimes exorbitant prices, it was with greetings from hostesses plus Assistant General Manager Connie Shin that guests were whisked away to a four top in Jasmine’s top-tier, the elevated vantage yielding a clear view of the whole room plus dancing waters.
Preparing to ring in the New Year just 24 hours later, the Fountain’s Brunch briefly resurrected during daytime hours, it was with a personalized menu already in place that a familiar Captain as well as the Sommelier soon stopped by, an atypically busy night nonetheless flowing well save for an unexpected change in coursing plus one glass of Wine poured several minutes after the course for which it was intended.
Focused on the milder flavors of Chinese cuisine with an ingredient-centric kitchen featuring several Live Tanks and daily specials, the season seeing both Lobster and Abalone in the spotlight, it was by special request that course one saw the kitchen send forth one of their famous Imperial Ducks instead of the listed Dim Sum Trio, the pairing with a fruity Pinot Noir proving majestic as Connie informed guests that her Father was actually responsible for the crispy-skinned Fowl’s creation during Bellagio’s earliest days, a total of six Pancakes topped with Meat and accoutrements plated but the second half of the Duck wheeled away never to be seen again.
Backing up to now present listed course number one, a Dim Sum trio specially created for the season impressing by way of Winter Melon centered by Shrimp but largely wasting Black Truffles atop a particularly sweet Scallop, it was with sips of Pinot Gris complimentary to the former as well a bite of what tasted like Vegetable Lasagna that dinner marched forward, course three not exactly attractive but stunning in its subtlety as inch-thick slices of fresh Abalone floated in a broth rich with umami.
Not quite understanding the Soup’s delayed Wine pairing, a citrusy Chenin Blanc pleasant but a bit overwhelming for such a refined dish, it was with most of the glass remaining that a full-bodied Red was added to join Black Pepper Lobster plus String Beans in XO Sauce, the tableside ‘cleaning’ still leaving pieces of Cartilage in the Crustacean while the slick Udon was unexpectedly served in Pork Broth despite being listed under the “Noodles” – as opposed to “Soup” – section of the menu.
Rounding the Beverage program out with a 2015 Late Harvest wine from Australia, the flavor expectedly sweet without being syrupy or cloying, it was at the Chef’s discretion that jiggly Dan Tat were served alongside Coconut Pastries plus a chilled vessel of Melon Sorbet in Milk Pudding, an inquiry about the ‘melting’ Dessert experienced two-years prior fortuitously seeing not the “Floating Island” but a spherical White Chocolate Shell containing creamy Vanilla Gelato plus Sponge Cake and Blood Orange Sorbet that took well to surrounding Brown Sugar Streusel plus Caramel Sauce added via tableside pour.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Setting aside some small service gaffs easily attributable to an atypically busy evening, though a Restaurant of this caliber and clientele should be able to step up their game under such circumstances, this visit to Jasmine once again showed why the Bellagio continues to rank so highly amongst foreign tourists and how good ingredients matter regardless of what less expensive Restaurants on Spring Mountain Road have to offer.
RECOMMENDED: Australian Abalone and Yellow Fungus Soup, Imperial Peking Duck (usually served with a second Rice course,) Egg Custard Tarts, XO String Beans, Frozen Citrus Surprise.
AVOID: As prior, menu prices are steep and portions are large, so outside the Tasting Menu solo diners and even couples are likely to run up quite a tab without allowing them to taste more than one or two plates.
TIP: With the holidays just past Jasmine is now preparing for the Chinese New Year with dates for the famous Dim Sum brunch soon coming soon.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Last visited when scouting houses in September 2013, that morning compromised by a traffic cop clearly looking to fill a quota, it was alongside a friend met just a few weeks later that Brunch was planned inside Border Grill at Mandalay Bay on Saturday, the return of Chef Mike Minor to the kitchen seeing several new items added to the endless Brunch in addition to several old classics.
Joined by a second location at The Forum Shops since that first visit, a pair of meals there plus one in Santa Monica providing a good frame of reference for Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger’s brand of Mexican cuisine, it was after navigating a good bit of the Hotel and Casino en route from Self Parking that guests were checked-in at the hostess podium, Chef Mike briefly seen greeting diners in the upstairs dining room before returning to the kitchen and later visiting downstairs patrons.
Offering both an a la carte plus $38.99 all-you-can-eat option on weekends from 10am until three o’clock, the ability to add bottomless Mimosas, Micheladas and Bloody Marys for just $20 clearly a popular choice, it was deferring Alcohol not once but *five* times throughout the course of the meal that the decision was made to partake in the AYCE Brunch, a basket of Guava Empanada’s familiarly starting things off and as good as what one might find in Miami or Mexico while the housemade Tortilla Chips with four Salsas proved tempting throughout a nearly two-hour meal.
Receiving 14/16 of the menu’s diverse options during the course of the morning, service hit-and-miss with a youthful Hispanic gentleman a bit overzealous while his lanky Caucasian counterpart could not have been more blasé if he tried, it was as Tortilla Chips were being presented that a vessel containing plump Shrimp and a vibrant mix of Vegetables arrived, a refreshing opening bite that quickly transitioned to medium-rare Skirt Steak atop crispy Potatoes with smoky Chipotle Sauce and a Sunny-side Egg.
An enormous and intriguing space, the soaring ceilings and walls all painted with both indoor and al fresco seating, it was shortly after Steak that the Two Hot Tamales Shrimp and Grits came from the kitchen, the creamy base and Sustainable Seafood bolstered by Peruvian Pepper Paste while the Chilaquiles spoke well of Border Grill’s Chips which remained crisp despite several toppings.
Going sweet for a moment, the coursing left to Chef Minor smartly using fluffy Cinnamon Pancakes to refresh the palate before offering up a fiery blend of Masa and Shredded Chicken, it was in follow-up that Border Grill’s Benedict proved to be one of the Brunch’s most memorable items, a housemade Cheese Biscuit stacked high with Pork and Pickled Onions plus the expected Egg and Hollandaise.
Adapting to current dining trends by offering a “Power Parfait,” the presence of ‘superfood’ Chia Seeds on menus certainly not common in 2013 and neither adding nor detracting from a fresh Fruit and Coconut Milk in this creamy vegan concoction, it was again with senses freshened that Breakfast Fries and Sliders came next, the typically American pairing given a southwest spin by way fresh Salsa and dried-Pepper BBQ Sauce plus braised Meats including crispy Carnitas and tender Brisket.
The rare ‘everything to everyone’ menu that still manages to maintain its concept, Border Grill’s longtime success likely attributable to precisely that fact while several other “Mexican” or “Latin” Restaurants on The Strip have struggled, it was with Milliken and Feniger’s comforting Bacon Jalapeno PBJ Sandwich followed by Mary’s Organic Fried Chicken atop a tiny Waffle soaked in 100% Maple Syrup that savories came to a conclusion, the ingredient quality never in question and frankly remarkable in comparison to Las Vegas’ other all-you-can-eat choices.
Wasting nothing more than a few smears of Sauce to this point, Chef Mike complimenting the table’s capacity when visiting guests around the room, it was with a sliver of Tres Leches Bread Pudding plus chopped up Churros in Caramel plus Passion Fruit that Brunch neared its finish, the addition of $9 Rice Pudding from the a la Carte Dessert Menu highly recommended, though the portion here seems a bit less bountiful than that served in the Forum Shops with a Pecans and Bananas.
FOUR STARS: Happy to see Chef Minor back in a kitchen showcasing his talents, the ingredient quality and cooking across fifteen plates speaking volumes about both ownership and the man at the stove, those looking for an upscale Brunch option that brings the heat while remaining accessible would be well-advised to stop by Border Grill at Mandalay Bay on weekends, though some consistency in service would make the experience even better.
RECOMMENDED: The fact that everything is made to order and all-you-can eat leaves diners free to explore, but if prioritizing stomach space the Steak & Egg, Chilaquiles, Yucatan Eggs Benedict, Bacon Jalapeno PBJ Sandwich and Mary’s Chicken & Waffles are all great, as is the a la carte Arroz con Leche.
AVOID: Aside from the Passion Fruit I also recall the Churro Tots being a bit crispy in the past.
TIP: Border Grill is currently celebrating “Veganuary Las Vegas” with several vegan specials offered at both locations throughout the month, though Carnivores and Omnivores are still welcome to enjoy all the classics as well.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Rosalba’s Cookies – Lemon, Amaretto, Chocolate, Hazelnut, Wedding Cookies
Rhum Baba – Citrus Zabaglione, Macerated Berries
Now an industry leader for over 31-years, the old-school Italian classics, great service and expansive wine list all well known with Chef Francesco Di Caudo slowly building a name for himself by way of elegant creations not dissimilar to what one might see from the kitchens of Tuscany or even Milan, it was as a party of two that dinner was enjoyed at Ferraro’s Italian Restaurant and Wine Bar on Friday.
Nothing short of an icon in a city of constant turnover, the Ferraro family dedicating their lives to the restaurant they built with both Gino and his wife present once again on this night as a lounge singer serenaded patrons while College Football entertained guests at the bar, it was minutes prior to a 6:30 reservation that seating was offered in a semicircular booth behind the hostess podium, familiar servers stopping by with menus and Gino soon standing tableside with a bottle of Prosecco.
Recently transitioning from Autumn to Winter, the classics still present but more than eight new items including several housemade Pastas joining a wide-ranging menu more than capable of pleasing gourmands in addition to those simply looking for a great Meatball or Red Sauce, it was with carte blanche deferred to the kitchen that Dinner began with three Antipasti including imported Burrata at the center of Carrot Salad slicked in Mr. Ferraro’s private-stock Olive Oil, the clean sweetness subtle in the setting of Persimmon Gel but far more noteworthy atop tender Octopus and Beef Tartare with cured shavings of Egg Yolk plus Herbs.
Moving along briskly to four more Antipasti paired to Sauvignon Blanc, the crispness of the Wine playing well off bitter Rapini served alongside a coil of Sausage as well as Happy Hour Fowl sweetened by Figs, it would be difficult to say which plate from this course was best when comparing these to a creamy house-smoked Salmon Terrine or crispy poached Egg and shaved White Truffles since not a bite of any went back to the kitchen uneaten.
Sopping up the last of the Egg Yolk with a Roll, the scarpetta of Sauce soon to continue in earnest, it was with a glass of Italian White Chardonnay that five Pastas and one Risotto arrived in two rounds, Gino’s favorite Spaghetti Alio & Olio as impressive as ever with plenty of Garlic while thin Noodles topped in Uni and aromatic Carrot Juice dazzled in its complexity, as did plump Broccoli-Cheese Ravioli set-up against similarly sized Clams beneath a quenelle of Tomato Marmalade.
Once again resetting share-plates, the same Chardonnay proving rich enough with Oak to stand up against Beef but a glass of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo even better, those looking for the city’s best handmade Pasta will find themselves challenged to top Chef Di Caudo’s Pici amidst tender braised Boar Ragu, the Oxtail Tortellini unfortunately getting a bit lost in the pool of earthy Sauce while the subtly sweet Risotto attests to a kitchen functioning with both skill and confidence.
Veering partially off-menu for Secondi, the must-have spicy Tripe served in a demi-portion alongside two additional plates, it was unfortunate that not enough stomach capacity remained to finish the whole Mediterranean Seabass served simply alongside sautéed Kale and Sweet Potatoes, that space instead reserved for a stylish stack of seared Pork amidst visually indistinguishable layers of Sunchokes and Bosc Pears.
Enjoying a collection of cover tunes ranging from Phil Collins to Boyz II Men as the Buckeyes finished off USC, a double Espresso refreshing the palate and fortifying spirits for a few more bites, anyone visiting Ferraro’s without an order of Rosalba’s Cookies might as well just say they’ve never been to the Restaurant, though Mimmo’s childhood favorite Pistachio Passion Cake and Di Caudo’s impeccable Rhum Baba are also well worth the calories.
FIVE STARS: In a city of re-brands and implosions it speaks volumes about Gino Ferraro’s eponymous Restaurant that it has not only managed to survive but thrive for three decades, the service and Wine List speaking for themselves while the addition of Chef Di Caudo has incrementally advanced a menu that will please the traveled and adventurous just as it has those still seeking long-heralded favorites.
RECOMMENDED: Battuta al Coltello, Salsiccia Calabrese, Uovo Fritto, Spaghetti Alio & Olio, Taglierini ai Ricci, Pici al Cinghiale, Maiale, Trippa Satriano, Pistachio Passion, Rhum Baba, Rosalba’s Cookies.
AVOID: A small quibble, but the Tortellini was over-sauced which muted the Oxtail’s flavor.
TIP: Pastas, Breads, and Desserts are made daily on premise and Whole Wheat as well as Gluten-free Pastas are available for those with dietary restrictions.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Crab Cake Benedict – Fried Green Tomato, Stone Crab, Poached Egg, House-smoked Bacon. Hollandaise
Grilled Halibut – Head-on Shrimp, Dirty Rice with Crab, Duck, Andouille Sausage and Trinity
Chicken n’ Watermelon n’ Waffles – Honey Hot Sauce, Chilled Spiced Watermelon, Sharp Cheddar Cheese Waffle, Bourbon Maple Syrup
Swine Burger – Short Rib, Brisket and Chuck Blend, House-smoked Pork Belly, American Cheese, House Pickles, Special Sauce with Ketchup and French Fries
Taking advantage of an extra Holiday day off, a rare period of time with no planned travel used to revisit some local favorites, it was along with a ten year old on Winter Break that brunch was planned at Yardbird, even Las Vegas’ “slow season” seeing a line at the door just prior to eleven o’clock and the Restaurant more than 2/3 full throughout the course of a ninety minute visit.
The fourth actual meal at Yardbird in 2017, though two additional stops were made for Pie and Biscuits in October and November, it was by familiar hostesses that a party of two was greeted at the podium after the queue had dwindled, a small two-top in the side room comfortable but a bit dim, though not much was dull about the cooking.
Making small menu changes across the course of this year, some for the better but the removal of Chess Pie in exchange for Peanut Butter Mud Pie clearly a financial decision rather than one in-tune with the Yardbird’s theme, it was after greetings from a youthful Male server that Beverages were ordered, Coffee for one and Milk for the other quickly followed by four hot Donuts in a skillet with Maple Bacon Caramel plus Yardbird’s reference-standard Buttermilk Biscuits ready and waiting to be slathered with Apple and Honey Butter.
Soon expanding to Beverly Hills and likely further thereafter, an attempt to “standardize” the menu clearly evident in the slow creep away from traditional Southern fare and towards an “everything to everyone” menu, it was just as the second Biscuit was being buttered that the waiter again stopped by with two new plates, the Avocado Toast essentially ignoring everything vegetarians love about the ubiquitous Brunch staple by adding rolls of Ham plus a poached Egg while the Crab Cake Benny was good, but not as remarkable as Yardbird’s classic Fried Green Tomato BLT.
Going off menu for a moment with grilled Halibut served over Dirty Rice in the style of Jambalaya, a robust bit of spice complimenting both the Fish and Shrimp nicely without overwhelming other ingredients in the mix, it was after being told “we don’t have any Wings” that Yardbird’s Chicken n’ Watermelon n’ Waffles was delivered, the breading a bit less crispy than memory serves but the flavor still great and Meat still juicy whether dark or white.
Watching the youngster pick at his Burger and Fries in a manner most non-parents probably would considering his ability to plow through an In n’ Out Double-Double, it was with half the Burger, Fries and Chicken packed to go that three Desserts were delivered, the aforementioned Ice Cream Pie expectedly pleasing the Kid who likes Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups and Oreo Cookies while holiday-specials of a potted Carrot Cake and Eggnog Bread Pudding were both boozed up and delicious, though certainly designed for more sophisticated palates.
FOUR STARS: While I understand the desire to expand and cash-in on a great concept I cannot help but look at Yardbird through the eyes of someone who has been supporting them for three years since opening on 1/1/2015 and although most of the classics are still available with great service there is not much about the “new” menu to get excited about…though I do appreciate Chef Keris going out of her way to make the Chess Pie as an off-menu Holiday gift.
Chocolate Chip Brownie and Black & White Cookie Samples
French Toast Bagel with Cream Cheese
Assorted Italian Cookies
Coffee Cake
Sfogliatella
Already making a name for itself with ‘new’ locals, the Montesano’s family quickly picking up New York Bagel Bakery’s previous clientele and replacing dated signage, it was shortly after owner Steve Montesano posted pictures of Sfogliatella on the Restaurant’s Facebook page that a return visit was planned, a nine o’clock arrival on Friday finding he and his sister hard at work and steady foot traffic entering and exiting the space.
A subtle change in naming and décor, the space in Smith’s shopping plaza just a few doors down from Starbuck’s at the corner of Rancho and Decatur already a bit brighter and more polished than prior, it was once again moments after entering that each guest was greeted by big smiles and a thick New York accent, many just grabbing their Bagel and Coffee to go but some also taking the time to peruse the Pastry case.
Already convinced after one visit that the place “where love has a taste” has made its return, a lack of Meatballs and Pizza perhaps disappointing to some but the return of a good Italian Bakery to Las Vegas nonetheless quite significant, it was after chatting with staff that three to-go boxes were filled while a Bagel was sliced and ran through the toaster, everything about the dense round proving superior to most nearby with a thin skin and good chew plus a touch of Cinnamon and sweetness.
Taking the lot elsewhere after tasting samples of Brownies and Black & White Cookies, both enjoyed last visit and just $3, it was along with Coffee that five new Italian Cookies were tasted, the Jam Thumbprints with slices of Almond as well as the elongated crispy Coconut Cookies both standouts.
Attempting to hold the best for last, though a $5 Coffee Cake covered with Brown Sugar Streusel makes a strong case that it might actually be New York Bagel N Bakery’s most desirable creation by way of about a pound of Butter, it was after eating just about 1/3 of the Cake that Sfogliatella were unwrapped, the layers shattering to a gentle pull which reveals thick Citrus Cream not dissimilar to Cannoli filling, everything about these exactly as they *should* be, regardless of what proponents of the Whipped Cream “Lobster Tail” might think.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Slow to catch on with “Yelpers” or Social Media “Influencers,” a common problem in the era of food being designed for Instagram as opposed to deliciousness, suffice it to say that New York Bagel N Bakery is already making Italian Pastries comparable to what one might find in the oldschool shops of Boston and at a price far lower than what Buddy V’s or Carlo’s are charging on The Strip.
RECOMMENDED: Sfogliatella, Coffee Cake, Black & White Cookie, French Toast Bagel, Jam Thumbprints.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Fans looking for special orders or old favorites are encouraged to contact the Restaurant directly at (702) 258-7400.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Les Mignardises – Pistachio Macaron, Lemon Macaron, Orange Pate de Fruit, Strawberry Marshmallow
As much a part of Christmas now as Brunch at HEXX it was as a party of two that seats were taken at Le Cirque’s Bar on December 24th, changes in the kitchen largely imperceptible as relates to the execution of a meal that showed off several new plates plus the same exemplary service and ingredients that find the intimate dining room full throughout even Las Vegas’ slowest weeks while neighbors struggle to do more than sixty covers despite a space that could double as an airline hangar.
Largely unchanged save for the Restaurant’s top toque and some Holiday decor, former Sous Chef Billy Maldonado stepping up to fill the shoes of Wilfried Bergerhausen whose reason for departure and next destination remain the source of rumors, it was moments after settling in that General Manager Ivo Angelov stopped by with Season’s Greetings plus a big smile despite the fact that 2018 will be well underway before he enjoys a day off.
Served predominantly by Ivo and a familiar female Bartender, the full holiday Reservation Book seeing several guests unfortunately turned away while others also enjoyed their dinner at one of Sin City’s most comfortable Bars, it was with Le Cirque’s classic Framboise plus the newly launched Lychee and Pearls that a toast was made, the combination of Vodka and Lavender Liqueur mingling nicely with Grapefruit Juice and Caviar-like Baubles packed in Lychee Juice infused with Alcohol.
Temporarily replacing Pretzel Bread with Bacon Cheddar Brioche, though the Bread Tray’s go-to remains the signature White Chocolate Coffee Loaf with a smear of Salted Butter, it was as Christmas Tunes played quietly overhead that the menu began by way of Hamachi served on a bed of Dry Ice with Yuzu Vinaigrette making flavors pop, the follow-up Soft Scrambled Eggs last enjoyed 364-days prior every bit as good this time with a hefty air of White Truffle greeting the nose at a distance and subtly imbuing the Custard-soft Eggs with their flavor.
Enjoying the end of Italian Truffle season hand-in-hand with early Black Perigords, the former again offered as a light grating amidst Chef Maldonado’s new Parsnip Soup that comes across thick and creamy with tiny Mushrooms helping to rein in the richness just enough, it was in the same manner that Brioche Toast was used to anchor the recently debuted Foie Gras featuring Truffle Butter and Apple Jam plus warming Apple Brandy reduction, the flavors and fragrances all nicely balanced with each assertive yet not overwhelming the others.
Continuing with another Christmas classic, the aforementioned Black Truffles served on a bed of creamy Rice in a brand new hand-blown vessel out of Germany, it was with Fish and Meat that savories came to an end, the flaky line-caught Halibut a high-wire act that somehow pulls off the pairing of Chorizo and Truffles by way of mellowing the former with Polenta while Le Cirque’s first Duck dish in several years was a welcomed surprise alongside micro-Vegetables and a tableside pour of Cassis Sauce.
Once again enjoying the Pineapple Bauble Palate Cleanser prior to Dessert, a pair of Double Espressos fortifying spirits after a relaxing meal and long day with the opening of presents set to follow, it only seemed proper that this feast should end like so many others, though in another unexpected surprise the classic Chocolate Souffle was followed by an all-new Dessert offering Cinnamon Ice Cream and Chestnut Mousse atop spiced Pears plus crispy Rice and Vanilla Marshmallows.
FIVE STARS: Still sailing along as Las Vegas’ best Restaurant under a new toque only time will tell whether Le Cirque’s Food will continue to evolve as it has in recent years, but if this particular evening is indication there is certainly no indication of anything dropping off yet.
Strawberry Shortcake Birthday Cake – by Executive Pastry Chef @cakegirl702
Taking advantage of two visitors and a pair of holiday weekends to revisit several of 2017’s best meals it was as a party of five that Brunch was enjoyed at HEXX Kitchen + Bar inside Paris Las Vegas, the city’s best 24/7 Restaurant now a three-year tradition at Christmas and this year doubling as a 21st Birthday celebration for one guest at the table.
Always a Restaurant testing the limitations of its space and clientele, the appointment of Due Forni’s Carlos Buscaglia to top Toque earlier this year ushering in the complete overhaul of a Dinner menu that now holds its own against any Restaurant of its ilk while surpassing many ‘fine dining’ spaces in terms of creativity, it was just past 11:00am on Sunday morning that hostesses led patrons to a lengthy indoor banquet reserved earlier that week, a pleasant young woman stopping by within moments to take drink orders of Coffee for most, plus one Potion for the guest of honor.
Once again featuring shockingly efficient service for a place that does so much volume, Mr. Stotland keeping a watchful eye over the expansive space and coordination of servers with bussers seamlessly filling drinks and clearing plates without ever feeling late or intrusive, it was in three courses that Brunch was consumed beginning with HEXX’s famous Fruit Plate, the collection this time highlighted by Papaya and Pineapple best dipped in Coconut Whip while the Dragon Fruit was far sweeter than usual, both on the plate and as incorporated into the “Magick Dragon” that billowed smoke upon service with a flavor not dissimilar to the Red Icee’s served at the movie theater.
Investing in both old and new favorites throughout a two-hour meal, the portions seemingly larger than past visits as relates to both sweets and savories, it was with many focused on the fluffy Brioche Sticky Bun that regulars reveled in the return of Chef Matt Piekarski’s Carrot Cake Pancakes, the item now back on the Brunch Menu every bit as good as memory serves with lightly spiced Batter fluffy and moist beneath a mound of Cream Cheese Frosting.
Sharing all plates family-style, the carbohydrate-heavy first course taking its toll on lighter appetites despite several plates to follow, it was to wide eyes that servers next delivered HEXX’s Benny replacing English Muffins with cheesy Potatoes alongside a stacked Breakfast Croissant and Chilaquiles with a lot of spice and several still-crisp Tortilla Chips, plus an oversized order of the typically Dinner-only fried Broccolini.
Admittedly a lot of Food, the Parmesan Potatoes particularly dangerous when accounting for portion and likelihood of going back for seconds, it was after a brief respite with one guest already waving the white flag that four all-new Desserts were delivered, Pastry Chef Mirada proving a worthy successor to Carol Garcia with thick Pumpkin Brulee that eats like Pot de Crème with a caramelized top plus a boozy Shake served next creamy confetti Cheesecake and equally rich Marshmallow Semifreddo beneath crumbled Graham Crackers and Fudge made from HEXX’s bean-to-bar Chocolate.
Not quite finished yet, a tableside Tiramisu still in-process as the last drops of Amaretto trickled through Coffee Beans to Almond Cake below, it was by way of advanced order that Brunch finished with a custom White Cake filled with Strawberries and Cream, @cakegirl702 living up to her name in terms of both design and taste even though most were too full to enjoy it until later.
FIVE STARS: At this point a proper ‘tradition’ with no plans to divert course for many years to follow it is places like HEXX Kitchen + Bar that truly make Las Vegas stand out as a holiday travel destination, their service every bit as welcoming as any other day of the week and the menu full of crowd-pleasing favorites for almost any age, race and city/county of origin.
Set to shutter at the end of 2017, a situation created by the combination of a lousy location and MGM’s abysmal Public Relations department, it was alongside two visitors that a final visit was paid to Portofino Ristorante, Chef Michael LaPlaca and General Manager Chris Zadie only intermittently present at this time as they prepare to open Osteria Costa in the first quarter of 2018.
Another well-known favorite and frequent dining destination with guests, a seventh dinner in April with family seeing Chef LaPlaca’s name unfortunately dropped from the marquee despite his single-handed revitalization of the cuisine beginning at the end of 2013, it was just minutes before 7:00pm that a comfortable table was occupied on the former Onda lower-floor, familiar servers presenting menus and beverages including Iced Tea and Cocktails.
Largely an unchanged menu from eight months prior, the impending closure creating little impetus for innovation when several signatures were already in place and ready to please, it was in four-course format that Dinner was served over the course of two-hours, the spicy charred Octopus, filler-free Crab Cake and Caprese Salad just as good as in the past while Meatballs were served individually instead of family-style as they have been in the past.
Surrounded by lines of cursive as a soundtrack of Italian classics played overhead, The Mirage never having even bothered to update the décor as Chef LaPlaca’s Food and Mr. Zadie’s front of house gathered accolades, it was with fresh Focaccia served that five bowls of Pasta were presented, the plating not quite as precise as in the past though flavors and textures were still excellent ranging from Michael’s signature Ripatelli to the Burrata Agnolotti and an all-new Gnocchi preparation featuring feather-light Arugula Dumplings anchored by Mushrooms and Black Truffles.
Taking it easy on Secondi, others present at the table still feeling the effects of Brunch and hearty portions of Pasta, it was with a tasting-size portion of three Scallops on the side that Portofino’s Osso Bucco and “secret menu” Lobster Milanese arrived, the fork-tender Shank hopefully not making its final appearance as Osteria Costa has been suggested to embrace a lighter Mediterranean style while there’s little doubt the fried Crustacean will be made available just as it has been since the days of Kokomo’s.
Rounding out the evening with four familiar Desserts, The Mirage once again handicapping Portofino for years by never hiring a Pastry Chef and thus 86ing items such as Cassata Cake as well as Cookie Souffles, it was with reminiscent fondness that Nutella Brulee, Chocolate Cake and Gelato were enjoyed one last time while hoping LaPlaca and Zadie’s next project is given the sort of backing it deserves, though bittersweet news was temporarily provided that most of Portofino’s familiar faces will be moving over while the outsourced Tiramisu will still be available at Peridot Sweets by Chef Tiffany Jones.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Yet another shutter in a year that saw many nationwide, the ever-changing hospitality industry magnified by a city where it has always been easier to blow something up and rebuild rather than make it work, Portofino will fondly be remembered as a special place to those who dined there and as long as Mr. Zadie and Chef LaPlaca are involved it seems safe to mark Osteria Costa as one of 2018’s most anticipated debuts.
RECOMMENDED: The Arancini, Agnolotti, Gnocchi, Foie-fredo, Osso Bucco and Lobster were always excellent.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Osteria Costa will reportedly take over the former Samba Brazilian Steakhouse in q1 2018.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Mille Feuille – Caramelized Puff Pastry, Vanilla Crème Patisserie
Baked Alaska – Banana Rum Ice Cream Cake, Roasted Pineapple and Toasted Meringue
Canele au Calvados – Diced Pears, Vanilla Cream
Taking advantage of two visitors and a pair of holiday weekends to revisit several of 2017’s best meals it was as a party of five that Brunch was enjoyed at Bardot Brasserie on the second floor of Aria, Chef Josh Smith agreeing to prepare a carte blanche feast of five courses including one item from the Dinner menu plus three new concepts being designed for debut during Bardot’s first ever Lunch in 2018.
At this point a well-known favorite and frequent dining destination with guests, four visits during the calendar year ranging from bites in the lounge to a Royal Bacchanalian Feast with Chef Calum Franklin of Holborn Dining Room in November, it was following greetings from familiar hostesses and managers that a seat was taken in front of the spacious Kitchen, an opening Champagne toast starting things off and subsequently followed by more for many while 4/5 additionally started the day with Mina’s ever noteworthy LAMill Coffee.
Still doing good business despite Las Vegas’ “slow season,” perhaps one-hundred patrons seated amidst a grand dining room where service and expediting times remain better than stateside or European Brasseries doing less volume, it was just as Coffee was presented that a basket of Pastries was delivered alongside Bardot’s city-best Baguette, the Canele and Kouign Amann each unparalleled in Las Vegas with the former crunchy and caramelized despite still-warm Custard that was just barely set.
Laid out over the course of over two hours inside a spacious booth as upbeat French pop played at an appropriate volume overhead, the scene lively and bustling without ever crossing the line towards frenetic, it was with thick smears of Echire Butter that hunks of crunchy Baguette were carefully consumed while being mindful of eighteen pending plates, the first round consisting of Imported as well as house-made Charcuterie plus Bardot’s reference-standard Foie Gras Parfait, the chopped-to-order Tartare rich and nicely spiced with a satiny texture fortified by golden Egg Yolk.
Additionally offered a work-in-progress Crab and Endive Salad with course one, the elegant and labor-intensive layout creating individually edible leaves with a pleasant balance of tangy Dressing plus sweet Crab, it was with this dish still being enjoyed that share plates were reset, course two offering up Chef Smith’s Hunter’s Waffle topped in Duck and smooth Sauce Maltaise while five of Bardot’s Snails in Puff Pastry trailed alongside an upcoming Chicken Cordon Bleu dish that Josh admits needs a bit of work in terms of plating, though the texture and flavor are nothing short of what fans might expect.
Allowing a bit of respite before moving on, nothing but a few leaves of Frisee remaining thus far, it was with Laguiole knives in-hand that another came embedded upright in Bardot’s Breakfast Sandwich, the upscale McMuffin going so far as to bake English Muffins on-site before stacking them high with fluffy Eggs, Housemade Sausage and melted Cheese while the Filet Mignon was fairly basic in terms of presentation, but better than most thanks to the ingredients.
Additionally offering a new Quiche as part of the meal’s final savory course, a dense conglomeration of roasted Mushrooms suspended in springy Custard atop an all-Butter Crust that cuts clean, Chef Smith’s Pastry work was once again put in the spotlight by way of the traditionally dinner-only Beef Wellington “for two,” the five portions plenty at this point and the execution potentially even better than prior with distinctly different textures and virtually no blending among the layers.
Presenting the next course as “Pre-Dessert” with a chuckle, Bardot’s Nutella Sticky Bun joined by a dish Chef Smith claims yours truly “put on the menu” in the form of a block of Angel Food soft French Toast topped with seared Duck Liver, Mascarpone and Almond Brittle, it was with one final cup of Coffee that “real Dessert” was brought forth – the Macaron, Crème Brulee and Mille Feullie all as good as memory suggested while the tableside Baked Alaska proved better textured than the larger version served at the Bacchanalian Feast with booziness more restrained…though perhaps that was only in comparison to three Canele split and soaked in Calvados.
FIVE STARS: Visited a mere twelve hours after dinner at Jean Georges Steakhouse, these two Restaurants along with Herringbone creating the highest density of outstanding dining perhaps anywhere in America, this visit to Bardot Brasserie once again solidified beliefs that no one else is doing mid-priced French this well anywhere stateside and if someone is able to convince me of better in the World I’ll plan a 2018 vacation around it.
RECOMMENDED: Canele, Crab and Endive Salad, Country Pate, Pork Rillettes, Foie Gras Parfait, Hunter’s Waffle, Wild Mushroom Hearth-Baked Quiche, Bardot Breakfast Sandwich, Beef Wellington, Foie Gras French Toast, Nutella Sticky Bun, Mille Feuille, Baked Alaska, Canele au Calvados.
AVOID: The Filet Mignon & Eggs is fine, but you can get that anywhere. Live a little!
TIP: Weekday Lunch is coming soon. Crab & Endive Salad, Chicken Cordon Bleu and Canele au Calvados potentially debuting then.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Taking advantage of two visitors and a pair of holiday weekends to revisit several of 2017’s best meals it was as a party of four that dinner was enjoyed at Jean Georges Steakhouse at Aria, Executive Sous Chef Robert borrowing the reins from Chef Griffin who was enjoying well-deserved time with family and serving a true feast on a particularly slow Friday night.
At this point a well-known favorite and frequent dining destination with guests, 2017’s refresh of décor and soundtrack plus the addition of tableside preparations elevating Jean George to a level above the likes of even Carnevino or Bazaar Meat, it was following greetings from familiar hostesses and managers that a seat was taken in front of the luminous wall of wine, an opening Champagne toast starting things off and subsequently followed by Iced Tea for some plus Wine for others.
Omitting the typical Amuse to instead focus on shock and awe from the start, one loaf of Bread proving irresistible but a second smartly set aside in favor of five courses to follow, it was alongside two full-sized boards of Jean Georges’ Bone Marrow that grilled Octopus was served as the Spanish might atop Potatoes and Paprika, though even though both were impressive they simply could not outclass a pair of Duck Liver preparations, the seasonal seared version expectedly good based on prior experience but the current Tasting Menu’s Terrine a real surprise that channels Vongerichten’s New York flagship in a thicker cut atop Brioche with Fig condiments.
Lightening things up a little before delving into meatier plates, a trio of Salads finding Tomatoes and Hearts of Palm as good as ever while Beets with Frisee and a spicy Caesar were both lightly dressed and refreshing, it was with two of each nearly finished that plates were cleared and reset for Seafood and can’t-miss Tempura Chicken, the Divers Scallops caramelized on the outside and still translucent at the center while two 12oz Tristan Rock Lobster Tails were simple and divine with a splash of Lemon plus melted Butter.
At this point already well-fed, a table to the left looking on with intrigue as a large wooden cart was wheeled over, it was prior to 14-hour smoked Brisket being carved that a sizable board of domestic Venison Chops were presented atop grilled Jerusalem Artichokes and Pears braised with Bacon, the lean Meat’s natural flavor allowed to shine while the Wagyu Rib Cap featured a crust almost as thick as the Brisket’s bark, but more subtlety that went well with Chestnut Puree and a Red Cabbage Quenelle.
Slowly enjoying bites of Brisket, the smoke-ring deeply penetrating beneath a rim of fat that will make most question the difference between “lean” and “fatty” anywhere else in the future, it was as if Robert could not help but go all-in with sides at this point, two-each of Brussels Sprouts and Mushrooms again showing off the quality of Jean Georges Produce while Griffin’s outstanding pressure-cooker fried Spuds saw some competition in the starch category from Robuchon-smooth Pommes Puree with more Lobster.
Rounding out the evening with Dessert, a classic New York Cheesecake marking its return, it seems fair to say that no one was too disappointed when the Salted Caramel Sundae was left off a four-foot board laid diagonally across the table, for as good as that Sundae is there was really only one person left taking more than a bite of the four other options and his attention was pretty much focused on the Apple Pie which only seems to get better each visit.
FIVE STARS: The best Steakhouse in a city where Beef reigns supreme only continues to get better, a combination of ingredient quality and innovation at this point completely unmatched by anyone else in town and the frequent menu changes plus daily specials creating plenty of reason for frequent return visits.
Officially opened on 12/18/17 for Breakfast and Lunch, Dinner service set to launch the day after Christmas, it was just five days after Friends & Family that a seat was taken at Kitchen Table Squared at The Gramercy, Chef Javier Chavez out greeting guests on arrival but soon returning to a kitchen where his presence thus far appears crucial as wait times for even simple plates extend past half an hour.
Intended as a three-meal expansion of the Henderson breakfast and brunch flagship, approximately 90% of the current daytime menu identical but the Restaurant not yet “doing” Waffles per the server, it was as mid-volume pop-tunes played overhead that the decision was made to begin with a Baked Alaska Latte, the bruleed cloud of Meringue on top drizzled with Fruit Syrup and visually quite impressive while the blend of Coffee and Cream was smooth and silky, though only luke-warm as presented.
Classy enough to serve as a good Date-spot at night and comfortable in the daylight, the varied textures and polished woods creating a feel akin to Kitchen Table number one despite Squared’s significantly larger footprint, it was as the Latte was delivered that an order was placed for two of the menu’s new plates, the aforementioned Waffle replaced by French Toast at the recommendation of a pleasant young female server who did an excellent job touching tables and apologizing for delays to multiple patrons.
Perhaps 1/6 full at noon, the crowd a mix of young families and retirees with no obvious business sector presence yet, it was clearly in an attempt to pacify lengthy waits that items such as Muffins and Shakes were offered from the Barista station approximately twenty minutes after the order was placed, a “Cookie Monster” Milkshake featuring housemade Chocolate Chip Cookie both on-top and mixed with Soft Serve once again showing great flavor and smooth texture without being too over-the-top.
Spending some of the delay exploring, the Private Dining Room and back-right alcove pleasantly secluded while the area immediately ahead of the doors offers a much better vantage for people watching, it was finally forty-five minutes after sitting down that the all-new Candied Orange French Toast arrived, the Whipped Cream melted and soaking into subtly Citrus Brioche that certainly needs no Syrup.
Quickly following sweet with savory, a careless male that Javier had scolded earlier for delivering plates to the wrong table plopping down a board and sending the Biscuit skittering, it was after he bare-handed it back onto the plate that two poached Eggs were popped amidst an excellent Duck Hash, the ‘Pastrami’ bold and rich while the crispy Sweet Potatoes blended nicely with sautéed Onions.
Bringing over a former Andiron Pastry Chef for Desserts, the Monkey Bread and several Muffins from Henderson now made across town, it was with three new items that lunch came to a finish, the Tiramisu in a jar fairly forgettable as the Ladyfingers were dry while the Apple Pie could have used a bit more time in the oven to warm it at the center, though the Carrot Cake was pretty much perfect with tangy Cream Cheese frosting and a complex spice profile.
THREE STARS: At this point still not up to speed, the lengthy delay in opening now appearing to be compromised by a last-minute sprint to the finish without accounting for staff training or expediting for a much larger space, Kitchen Table Squared nonetheless shows potential to be quite good, though for now fans may want to stick with the original, particularly if time is a concern.
RECOMMENDED: Duck Hash, Carrot Cake.
AVOID: Tiramisu in a Jar, and Waffles I guess…
TIP: Officially located at 9205 West Russell Road and soon to be open 8am until 9pm plus an extra hour on Friday and Saturday.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
With Chef Pluvinet off spreading great French Pastry from coast-to-coast it was early Friday morning that a stop was made at Rosallie on South Rainbow, the space festively decorated and a pre-order ready for pickup consisting of three boxes, one of which was still warm.
Truly a Restaurant that changed local dining culture, the quality of Viennoiseries improving across the Valley ever since Rosallie opened up shop, it was immediately upon arrival to work that Coffee was made to accompany the treats, Breakfast logically beginning with an oven-fresh Almond Croissant that raised the bar from great to “as good as Lyon” with a crackling skin and soft interior stuffed with house-ground Almonds instead of Frangipane.
Reluctant to share the bounty, the Nutella Croissant slightly smaller but equally rich and perhaps even more dense thanks to the Chocolate-Hazelnut Spread, it was on top and between snappy Shortbread that more Nutella was enjoyed before moving on to a slice of Jonathan’s Walnut Pie, an item that also only seems to be getting better with just enough Sugar to balance out the Nuts atop a buttery Shell.
Rounding out the sampling with this year’s Yule Log, a variant of last Christmas’ Buttercream Roll that places Vanilla Custard at the center of a Dark Chocolate Sponge, it should go without saying that this one might require the work of more than one person as the Cocoa adds up quick and the delicate texture makes for a rather limited shelf-life, though over the course of 24-hours in the right setting one might be able to justify eating a whole one given the fact that it can only be ordered during the Christmas season.
FIVE STARS: Although some may say that Rosallie’s collection is a little *too* rustic, whatever that means in the Instagram era, there is really no denying that as far as French Pastry goes there is nowhere else in Sin City nearly as authentic, an early morning arrival this time reminiscing of mom n’ pop bakeries in a place like Chaudes-Aigues France…aside from the Strip Mall.
RECOMMENDED: Almond Croissant, Walnut Pie, Buche de Noel.
AVOID: NA
TIP: Buche de Noel can be pre-ordered now, though a limited number are available in-store daily for walk-ins.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Beet Salad – Candied Red and Gold Beets, Roasted Chile Pistachios, Frisee, Fried Goat Cheese
French Bread Pizza – Sausage, Shaved Fennel, Charred Artichoke, San Marzano Tomatoes, Mozzarella
The Burger – Beef Blend, House Sauce, Pickles, Shredded Lettuce, Irish Cheddar, Jalapeno Bacon, Onions, Roasted Tomatoes, Toasted Sesame Brioche Bun served with French Fries
Acknowledging that Grand Openings, Play Dates, Soft Openings and Friends & Family are never the right time to assess a Restaurant beyond décor and aspirations it was along with two others that dinner was enjoyed at Javier Chavez’s Kitchen Table Squared at The Gramercy, the new project more than doubling his Henderson footprint in terms of size, scope and ambition.
Officially opened on 12/18/17 for Breakfast and Lunch, Dinner service set to launch the day after Christmas with some truly exciting options including a three pound boneless Cote de Bouef, it was for a set menu that guests were invited to help Javier and staff work out early kinks that largely included lengthy expediting times and servers not yet well-versed at touching tables, though the vibrant atmosphere and entertaining tablemates made the issues bearable.
Officially located at 9205 West Russell Road and soon to be open 8am until 9pm plus an extra hour on Friday and Saturday, those unfamiliar with Gramercy likely to be led to Kitchen Table Squared’s back door by GPS, it is immediately upon entering the front door that guests will note a Pastry case and barista station to the right with a proper bar back-left and the dining room spreading to both sides with comfortable seating, varied textures and even a sizable Private Dining Room that is almost as big as Kitchen Table number one.
Intended as a three-meal expansion of the Henderson brunch hot-spot, a cursory look at the menu showing many fan favorites plus intriguing new options such as Shakes, lunch Salads and share plates with even more to come at dinner it was with fresh Cocktails all around plus Iced Tea and Water that the evening kicked off lightly, Javier’s Chopped Salad ironically eaten less that 24-hours after a truly disastrous version elsewhere and improving on it in terms of ingredient quality as well a flavor while the ubiquitous Beet Salad challenged one from Carson Kitchen earlier that day in terms of visual appeal while trumping it in terms of flavor thanks to the sweet-spicy, creamy-crunchy juxtaposition of tastes and textures.
Rapidly served three more plates shortly after the Salads, a pair of promised Tapas completely forgotten by a server who reportedly did not make the final cut entering day one, suffice it to say that under more ideal circumstances the French Bread Pizza likely would have been more thoroughly cooked with a crispy Crust and melted Cheese, but moving on to better things “The Burger” featured a great grind and toasted Bun that held up well to several fresh toppings while the perfect al dente Pasta shined amidst snappy jumbo Shrimp and spicy Marinara fragrant with Peppers and Basil.
Rounding out the evening with Desserts, Kitchen Table’s signature skillet Monkey Bread resting in a pool of Salty Caramel and served with Vanilla Soft Serve, it was in transferring to the coffee Bar that three Milkshakes were presented, the housemade nature of each accoutrement save for mini-Hershey Bars creating excitement for an upcoming lunch as the Dark Chocolate Brownie, Cinnamon Rolls and wedge of Cheesecake were all great on their own and even better from their outlandish perch atop the Shake.
To say Kitchen Table Squared is an important opening for The Gramercy is an understatement, its success or failure not only likely to say a lot about The Gramercy as a ‘dining destination’ but also about the Southwest and Spring Valley’s culinary revitalization in general.
AVOID: French Bread Pizza needed more time in the oven, thus making it difficult to judge.
TIP: They’re still serving Nobel Syrup at Breakfast and that alone is enough to tell me Javier and his team care a whole lot more about their ingredients and sourcing than the average West-Side Breakfast or Brunch joint…also, 5p-7p Happy Hour seven days a week.
Mr. Big – St George Citrus Vodka, Liquor 43, Fresh Lemon & Cranberry, Spiced Pear Liqueur, Bitter Truth Celery, Peychaud’s Bitters
Black Mussels – ‘nduja, Shallot, White Wine
Tempura Green Beans – Pepper Jelly Cream Cheese
Green Goddess Caesar – Cream Cheese Crouton
Sunday Kind of Love – Whistling Andy Pink Peppercorn & Pear Gin, Fresh Lemon, Orange Liqueur, Pernod, Contratto Bianco
Young Beets – Pistachio, Mandarin Orange, Honey, Goat Cheese
Poached Pear & Bleu – Candied Walnut, Passion Fruit Vin
Red Snapper – Panang Curry, Rice Noodle
42 Bridges – Flor de Cana Aged Rum, Copa de Oro Coffee Liqueur, Contratto Apertif, Chocolate & Cardamom Bitters
Rainbow Cauliflower – Garlic, Lemon Juice
Caramel Creamed Corn – Truffled Popcorn
Veal Meatballs – Sherry Foie Gras Cream
Chicken Thighs – Pumpkin Puree, Sherry Jus
Secret Sunday Chicken – Spicy Pickle Aioli, Spicy Tots
Bourbon Fudge Brownie – Brown Butter Bacon Ice Cream
Glazed Donut Bread Pudding – Three Rum Caramel, Vanilla Crème Anglaise
Banoffee Pie – Bailey’s Whipped Cream, Chocolate Biscotti
Recently undergoing a change in the kitchen, Kerry Simon’s brother Scott returning to Las Vegas after years at Simon’s restaurant in the rebranding Hard Rock Chicago, it was with two others that seats were taken at Carson Kitchen on Saturday, the current late-Fall/Winter menu featuring seven new food items from Cory and team plus three new Cocktails from the mind of Matthew Harwell.
Decorating the expanded space festively, steel stools less comfortable than backed-chairs at the kitchen counter but creating substantially more room and thus shorter wait times during a rush, it was to an expectedly warm welcome that guests were greeted and led to a table in the center of the dining room, a familiar young man in vintage Guns n’ Roses apparel quickly filling Water as well as Iced Tea before starting the show.
Busier than most Restaurants during Sin City’s slow season, the original part of Carson Kitchen about 2/3 full at noon while the bar contained three additional patrons, it was from that area that tasting started off with a pink drink called Mr. Big that Matt claims he did not name, the Alcohol here taking a backseat to Citrus and Herbs which paired nicely to the bold spice profile of Mussels amidst spicy Calabrian Sausage in Wine plus day one staple Tempura Green Beans that remain a best seller thanks to light Batter plus the Red Pepper Cream Cheese made for dipping.
Rounding out the first course with a Green Goddess Caesar Salad, the accompanying ‘Crouton’ an interesting trio of bites while the rest was fairly predictable, it was as a reprise of last year’s Pair of Pears that Matthew presented “Sunday Kind of Love” featuring Whistling Andy Gin and White Wine used to poach Pears for a new Salad, the pairing obviously excellent though the Orange also lent well to a recently updated Young Beet dish with Honey and Goat Cheese while the overall freshness helped tame flaky Red Snapper in Curry broth with crispy Noodles.
Progressing at a good pace, four courses served in less than two hours as Credence Clear Water Revival and The Rolling Stones entertained overhead, it was in an attempt to lure Whiskey drinkers over to Rum that Matthew says he created 42 Bridges, the poignant bitterness slowly dissipating and revealing complexity but still too spirit-forward for most, though it did admittedly pair nicely with Carson Kitchen’s new Chicken Thighs atop sweet Pumpkin Puree as well as “Caramel Creamed Corn” that plays off the idea of caramelizing Kernels in the skillet before adding cream, the result far more subtle but just as delicious as the name makes it sound.
Plenty familiar with Rainbow Cauliflower and Cory’s Veal Meatballs in Sherry Foie Gras Cream, a Secret Sunday Chicken Sandwich added on for those who had never had the pleasure, it was deferring Coffee for once that lunch came to a close with three old pals, two of them ever present for good reason while the Banoffee Pie represents the first Dessert ever to make a return, though this time rumor suggests it may stick around.
FIVE STARS: In an industry of constantly changing faces on the line December 2017 represents a homecoming for Chef Scott Simon to the place his brother helped create, and with the larger space now offering shorter wait times during peak times the Winter Menu shows everything as good as ever in terms of Food and Drink.
RECOMMENDED: Sunday Kind of Love, Black Mussels, Tempura Green Beans, Poached Pear & Bleu, Red Snapper, Caramel Creamed Corn, Secret Sunday Chicken, Banoffee Pie, Bourbon Fudge Brownie.
AVOID: Lightweights need not cross 42 Bridges.
TIP: It was Cory who suggested Banoffee Pie *might* stick around, but I’ll just state it as fact until it becomes impossible to assume otherwise. : )
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Italian Wedding Cookie, Chocolate Rugelach, Granellati Man, Befanini, Golosoni Man, Trollini, Cream Cheese Cookies
Having only visited Montesano’s Italian Eateria once, but familiar with the family and their longstanding role in Las Vegas’ culinary scene from another facet of life, it was with a bit of sadness that news of the Restaurant’s closure was heard in Summer 2016, the final date of service on July 30th yet another blow to family-owned independent businesses in The Valley but the Montesano’s recent take-over of New York Bagel Bakery near University Medical Center thankfully a return to form after the 17-month hiatus.
Rebranding the space at 840 South Rancho Drive as New York Bagel N Bakery, signage yet to come with the marquee currently faintly emblematic of a previous ownership plus a Gyro shop prior, those entering the space located just down from Smith’s will quickly be greeted by familiar faces and decorations from the shop on South Eastern Avenue, owner Steve present and hard at work lining countertops with classic Italian Pastries.
Currently scaled back from their previous business as purveyors of Pizza and Pasta, the New York Bagels n’ Bakery concept taking over for previous owners and adding Montesano’s “Where Love has a Taste” hallmark in the form of housemade Cookies, Breads, Cakes, Brownies and more, it was as three women ordered loaded Bagel Sandwiches that chiller cases containing New York-style Cheesecake and Cream Cheese Spreads was perused, the eventual decision to order several $12.99 per pound Cookies accompanied by two larger items that were taken elsewhere to enjoy.
Still featuring the same seating arrangements as New York Bagel Bakery, Steve Montasano promising several improvements in décor and selection just as soon as the necessary items arrive, it was bearing in mind the homey prior confines that first bites were taken of an enormous Black & White Cookie, the city’s very best immediately announcing its return with a soft, Cake-like base and crackling Vanilla Frosting on one side with the other thickly slathered in creamy Dark Chocolate.
Impressed by the value, a mere three dollars for both the Black & White as well as a dense Fudge Brownie studded with Walnuts that fares far better than its counterpart at Bagel Café or Weiss thanks to Chocolate lacking the waxy linger of Paraffin, it was several hours later seven different styles of Cookies were tasted, the Italian Wedding as smooth and buttery as any experienced to date while the Chocolate Rugelach, person-shamed Granellati and Cream Cheese Drop also outclassed anything similar in Sin City.
Moving finally to a thick Rainbow wedge of cut into nine individual pieces, singles not yet available but charged the same as any other housemade Cookie, those with any knowledge or nostalgia for this treat certainly won’t mind having to order more than one to get a taste as Montesano’s one-ups the likes of Roma Deli by scratch-baking each layer, the Chocolate thin and crisp while Raspberry Jelly adds moisture between each thin layer of Almond Cake.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Making a welcome return to Las Vegas, now on the West Side of the Strip, Steve Montasano and family have scaled back operations while retaining the quality of their Cookies, Cakes and Pastries, this first look a good sign of things to look forward to in the coming weeks and months.
RECOMMENDED: Rainbow Cookies, Black & White Cookie, Italian Cookies, Cream Cheese Drops, Granellati.
AVOID: Judging the current décor as the Montesano family just received the keys last week.
TIP: Open 6a-4p weekdays and 7a-2p on weekends. Call (702) 258-7400 for special requests or large orders.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Mini Cheesecake Trio – Caramel Apple, White Chocolate Raspberry, Chocolate Swirl
Pecan Bars – Vanilla Ice Cream
Churros – Vanilla Ice Cream
While the ability to travel and dine at several of the World’s greatest Restaurants is undoubtedly a privilege to be grateful for it also comes at a cost, the financial aspect obvious to most but the risk of becoming ‘jaded’ also something to be taken into consideration; an elevated sense of what is possible often setting a bar too high for more casual circumstances, though in the case of Mingo Kitchen + Lounge it seems as if the average local Diner or even Denny’s may have higher standards for what they serve.
Currently located at 1017 South 1st Street in the Arts Distict, the former Mundo inside World Market Center shuttering in December 2015 and becoming Mingo shortly thereafter, it was on a baffling recommendation of “the food was pretty good when I was there” from one member of the team that the office Christmas Party was booked for Dinner on Friday, a 7:00pm arrival finding vagrants in the parking lot and a bar nearby jumping, the “closed for Private Event” sign on Mingo’s door apparently not enough to dissuade rough n’ tumble looking regulars who more than once attempted to enter.
Originally toqued by Chef Robert Solano, much of his Latin-inspired menu ported over from World Market as “Mundo Classics” to join a list of “Mingo Faves” and “Sharables” with clever names, everything from Mac n’ Cheese Hotdogs and #IMABIGDILL Frickles joining items as pricey as the $28 Boneless Ribeye, it was with a prix fixe offered by way of check-boxes that guests were greeted at their seats, the “decadent & sexy lounge” likely only fitting such a description for those fresh from the Strip Club as tacky glass raindrops blended with mixed lighting, worn leather banquets and the overwhelming smell of Clorox.
One-upping the description of their décor with “an inventive & risqué menu,” the inane hashtag descriptions apparently intended to be provocative, it was with drink tickets distributed that guests were left to decide between Beer, cheap Wine or “Well Cocktails” described as “a shot with some mix,” the decision to try Sangria finding Fruit and Wine largely inoffensive, as too was Iced Tea that was refilled appropriately.
Originally told that Appetizers were a choice by servers, this fact unapparent on the paper menu and actually untrue as the kitchen sent out individual Salads plus a sparse plate of Calamari to be shared at each table, suffice it to say that dinner got off to an inauspicious start when the jumble of Fruits and Vegetables arrived sloppy wet and best eaten with a spoon while the rings of Squid were largely overcooked and only rescued by bottled Sauces in plastic cups that were the furthest thing from risqué, sexy or inventive.
Next offering one of four entrees, the person who recommended the place actually returning hers to the kitchen because it was too spicy, anyone seeking ‘sexy’ vibes or good Mexican food would be well advised to stay at Sapphires and dine at El Dorado or give up the glitz and drive over to Charleston Road for better as the Chicken was nicely roasted but far too sweet while the Filet Mignon Chile Relleno was fair to middling at best, though the Corn Tamale clearly made from a mix instead of actual Masa was a nostalgic throwback to Chi-Chi’s Corn Pudding from a Midwestern childhood.
Exchanging White Elephant gifts and playing Trivia throughout the course of two hours, the people present helping to alleviate much of the regret for ever stepping through Mingo’s doors, it was with samples of all three Desserts that dinner lurched across the finish-line, the Churros easily the most edible option though everyone agreed they were too hard while the Pecan Bars as well as the “Cheesecake Bites” were confirmed via the internet to be straight out of Costco.
ONE STAR: An unmitigated disaster in terms of food and décor, the fact that Mingo’s website actually brags of both almost as tone-deaf as Mario Batali’s recent apology with a recipe, the only thing good about this night out was the people involved plus the knowledge that a Corn Pudding like Chi-Chi’s still exists in the form of a packaged mix sold at Vons.
RECOMMENDED: Corn Tamale.
AVOID: Mingo Kitchen + Lounge.
TIP: I promised to be nice. This is as good as I could do. Obviously my opinions are not representative of the group.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
