Less than a month after visiting Sparrow + Wolf for an informational Dinner inside the Private Dining Room it was alongside ten others that a similar situation presented, and although a nearly identical menu was proposed by Chef Brian Howard many familiar faces attended in testament of the Restaurant’s unique appeal to a diverse crowd.
Redundant to repeat comments on plates tasted so recently, the Food as executed by Alec Paki indistinguishable from Chef Howard who was only present briefly before attending a meeting of his own, service led by John Anthony additionally fared well save for late hiccups after the crowd had started to thin.
Again thrilled by Aguachiles early, a daily special of Crab Rillettes on buttery Brioche also impressing with a touch of heat later, it was just prior to receiving Sparrow + Wolf’s sharable Porterhouse that a dish described as “just messing around” tantalized taste buds, housemade Pig’s Head Charcuterie balancing Flesh and Fat elegantly alongside tangy Pickles and Bhatoora Bread that an Indian colleague compared favorably to the real deal.
Offering unparalleled value on the dollar to Dinner’s sponsor, a man who typically subjects his audience to Bonefish Grill or Del Frisco’s, it was after eating approximately two whole Japanese Sweet Potatoes with Salted Plum Crème Fraiche plus plenty of Steak that Dessert was presented, a lack of explanation leaving one to guess flavors of stick-a-spoon-up-straight Pot de Crème and Honey Toast whose housemade Bread and herbaceous Ice Cream put it miles ahead of Ichiza or anywhere else in Chinatown.
FIVE STARS: It speaks volumes about the culture Chef Howard has created that the kitchen functions seamlessly in his absence, and much like last time this visit to Sparrow + Wolf found every plate bold and balanced with a unique ability to impress a highly diverse group in terms of age, race and dining experience.
RECOMMENDED: Swordfish Aguachile, Housemade Coppa di Testa, Crab Rillettes, 65-Day Dry Aged Porterhouse, Japanese Sweet Potato, Caramelized Honey Toast.
AVOID: Be sure to inquire about the individual Banchan as some pack quite a bit of Heat.
TIP: The PDR comfortably seats twenty at separate or communal tables, and menus are soon to be even more customizable. Call 702-790-2147 or e-mail info@sparrowandwolflv.com for details.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Making waves on Water Street since May 3rd, a visit less than two weeks later finding the space, service and Food already outperforming most local Sports Bars, it was Saturday evening that Hardway 8 again impressed with Chef Leland Chad Childres now executing the menu designed by Johnny Church in the heart of old Henderson.
Still under-discussed, though a combination of well-crafted Cuisine and ownership by the men behind Starboard Tack has undeniably gained a local following, it is immediately upon entry that guests are greeted by a pleasant hostess, the presence of kids at several tables suggesting the prior 21+ limit gone, at least until live entertainment begins at 9:00pm.
Adding to the appeal of Runnin’ Rebels nostalgia and televisions tuned to ESPN with a daily Happy Hour, three o’clock until six offering seven plates plus all signature Cocktails for just $8, it was after some debate that “Smith, Smith and Smith” and “Easy Peachy Owens” were requested, a mistake first seeing duplicates of the former arrive though in reality that was not such a bad thing considering the effervescent combination of Fruit with bright aromatics and a tangy finish.
No less impressive with the summertime Owens, an easy-sipper built around Vodka, it is at a cost of $14 that Hardway 8’s Skillet Nachos come fully-loaded, the mountain of Chips no doubt gathering envious eyes across the room and the combination of ingredients well-deserving of that and more thanks to chunks of Pork Belly and crispy Skin balanced by housemade Pico de Gallo and at least two types of Cheddar.
Focusing on items previously un-tasted, though rest assured the 702’s best Fish and Chips was tempting when delivered to a neighboring table, it was instead with fried Pork that dinner continued, a recent trip to Germany heightening awareness of Schnitzel and this version good despite being a little over-browned while Chef Leland’s Meatloaf knows no equal within city limits thanks to ten tender ounces slicked in lightly spiced Glaze next to creamy Potatoes, roasted Onions and Carrots.
Chuckling at misspelled “Pappardella,” though there is nothing silly about Noodles cooked far more competently than those at Bavette’s Steakhouse & Bar for half the cost, those looking for Chicken will be divided between this and a “Hendertucky Hot” Sandwich as Hardway 8’s Beer Can version has mysteriously disappeared, though in its place can be found a “PLT Sandwich” stuffed with housemade Porchetta, Bacon, Lettuce and Tomato plus Avocado on a fluffy Bun.
Hand-cutting Fries the way they ought to be, each one crispy and well-salted, those looking for something hearty and sharable should not pass on Skillet Pizza offered with or without Pepperoni, its’ texture harkening the French Bread of childhood, but with more levity, while a baseball cap Sundae and housemade Choco Taco are also throwbacks to youth featuring locally sourced Ice Cream from Scoop LV.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Impressive since opening in early May, and now starting to gather crowds on Water Street, a second look at Hardway 8 shows Chef Leland Chad Childres executing well-priced Bar food like few others in the Valley. Having now tasted all but two of the current offerings it is hard to go wrong with anything on the menu, but for $13 the Meatloaf is an all-out bargain and a “destination dish” for fans.
RECOMMENDED: “Smith, Smith and Smith,” Skillet Nachos, Chargrilled Meatloaf, PLT Sandwich, Signature Skillet Pizza with Pepperoni, HW8 Choco Taco.
AVOID: N/A, though Mint garnish on the Sundaes is entirely unnecessary.
TIP: 11a till midnight daily, 21+ only after 9:00pm on show nights. See FaceBook for schedule and events such as Brunch Music Bingo beginning this Saturday at noon.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Arroz Chaufa – Lobster, Snow Crab, Shrimp, Sausage, Pancetta, Sunny Side Up Egg
Hamachi Kama – Peruvian Succotash, Sweet Corn Purée
Pisco Flan – Strawberry, Guava Sorbet
Double Espresso – Ice
Now occupying the former home of Emeril’s Table 10 since March of 2018, Once – sounded out as on-seh on signage – has been slow to build a following despite good word of mouth, and on Saturday morning Chef Ricardo Zarate’s first foray into Sin City showed precisely why many have dubbed him “the godfather of Peruvian cuisine.”
Translated as “Eleven” from Spanish, in no way a sequential reference to the space’s prior inhabitant but rather a menu which originally aspired to rotate dishes more regularly, it is surrounded in plants and art from Zararte’s native Lima that guest’s find themselves upon entering the space inside Palazzo’s Grand Canal Shoppes, service via young woman from Philadelphia proving both well-informed and pleasant throughout a ninety-minute stay.
For now Once’s final Brunch service, the presence of only two guests from 11:00am until noon a testament to not only the difficulties of marketing unfamiliar concepts in Las Vegas but also a location with modest foot-traffic, it is under the direction of Chef Losa Yi that Zarate’s fusion of Peru and Japan is presented, changes already coming from the woman who only recently moved back to Nevada but whose resume includes stints at Shibuya as well as Michelin 3* Joel Robuchon.
Playing light music overhead, a sprawling kitchen also featuring Lynn Taylor visible across a Chef’s counter with seating, it was with serviceware in place and water poured that complimentary Corn Kernels arrived, the snack ubiquitous in Peru equally compelling stateside where its salt and crunch almost necessitate ordering Drinks such as Pisco Sours and Punch, or on this day an extra spicy Michelada de Tigre and bubbly Nippon Cobbler.
Easily mistaken as a “fusion” Restaurant, though just like Zarate’s red-hot Rosaliné in Los Angeles a style of dining that dates back over one hundred years, it is in items such as Kampachi Ceviche that the idea of ‘Nikkei’ is embodied, all the familiarity of Japanese Amberjack Sashimi married to Peruvian Peppers that find their foil in fried Calamari and cooling Avocado.
Taking some liberties with dishes such as Edamame slicked in Arbol Chile Paste, not to mention “Avocado Toast” that one-ups most by way of Tuna Tartare and Citrus atop housemade Bread, it is for $11 that guests can request a whole Loaf of Pan Andino, the use of Quinoa creating complex textures and subtle nuttiness that is both gluten free and thoroughly enjoyable whether dipped in Olive Oil or spread liberally with seasonal jam plus smooth and savory Butter.
Focusing next on tradition, the “mixed” Ceviche popular throughout Lima offered at Once with a bit more sweetness thanks to caramelized Starch, suffice it to say that quality sourcing yields exquisite flavor both here and in Lomo Saltado, the dish traditionally amassed from leftovers here a standout thanks to Filet Mignon, crispy Manioc and Onions cooked translucent in Soy Sauce.
Suggested Yuquitas by staff, an item that in Lima simply looks like Zarate’s Lomo Saltado “Fries,” it is at Once that the dish is reinvented as a sort of Croquetta featuring smoked Mozzarella inside mashed Yucca, a more “Cheffy” version of Arroz Chaufa also taking a peasant dish to new heights by incorporating plenty of fresh Seafood and Pork into a nicely sized bowl of pickled Vegetables, fried Eggs and fluffy Rice.
Treated next to an upcoming menu item, Yellowtail Collar baked slow enough to melt the Fat and Collagen while leaving Flesh pristine, it was with only a few Bones plus a smear of Corn remaining that plates were reset for Dessert, only Flan brightened by Pisco and Berries receiving Chef Yi’s endorsement at this time but more inspired sweets from herself and some former colleagues promised soon.
FOUR STARS: It seems safe to assume that most folks visiting The Palazzo have never sat down at a Nikkei Restaurant, much less Maido, and although Ricardo Zarate may be known in Los Angeles, his name carries little weight in a Sin City Restaurant that barely mentions it. All that noted, despite limited marketing and little word of mouth, Once may just be The Strip’s most underrated restaurant as the well-sourced products used by Chef Losa Yi see Peruvian classics reborn elegant without losing their identity.
RECOMMENDED: Nippon Cobbler, Edamame con Chile de Arbol, Pan Andino, Kampachi Ceviche, Lomo Saltado, Arroz Chaufa, Hamachi Kama.
AVOID: Having tried several versions of Ceviche Mixto in Peru during the month Once opened, caramelizing Sweet Potatoes is both unnecessary and distracting.
TIP: Yelp! Check-in will score 15% off Food costs, which occasionally do seem a bit over-inflated, though recent adjustments, a daily Happy Hour and upcoming Bar Menu seek to remedy that.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Hot Fudge Sundae Royale – Vanilla Ice Cream, Chocolate Ice Cream, Pistachio Ice Cream, Whipped Cream, Toppings, Goldbrick, Hot Fudge
Metropolis Coffee French Press
Familiar with Brendan Sodikoff’s Hogsalt empire, Au Cheval, Bavette’s Bar & Boeuf, Gilt Bar, Green Street Smoked Meats, The Doughnut Vault and others since shuttered all visited across the years, it wasn’t until Thursday that a need to visit Bavette’s Steakhouse & Bar arose, and much like Chicago’s original the Park MGM Restaurant offers classic Food and Beverage in a room that is dark but otherwise impressive.
Now a part of the local dining landscape since late 2017, an under-the-radar opening that has nonetheless amassed good word of mouth despite minimal signage at the re-branded Monte Carlo, guests will find the Steakhouse approximately halfway between parking and Las Vegas Boulevard, eyes immediately in need of adjustment upon opening the door and peering into the foyer.
Self described as a “stylish departure from a traditional Steakhouse,” the feel of a Parisian Speakeasy evoked by polished surfaces, brick-red fabrics and dim-lighting cast by overhead baubles, it was arriving earlier than the rest of large party that seating was temporarily refused by hostesses, a Bar at room’s center instead suggested as a place to wait until “at least half the group arrives.”
Surprised by such halfhearted hospitality, a more Chicago than Las Vegas welcome to the Restaurant which was less than 10% full, it was as directed that leather stools provided comfort for the next thirty minutes, the middle-aged Bartender a pleasant and efficient guy who quickly poured Water as well as Tea alongside a copy of Bavette’s menu.
Informed that all items can be ordered throughout the space, though a true Speakeasy in back adds additional Cocktails, it was after receiving two warm slices of Sourdough that the decision was made to invest $25.95 in a “Griddled Burger with Bacon,” in other words the famous “Au Cheval” Burger featuring two juicy Patties on a fluffy Bun with American Cheese plus Fries at just eighty cents more than the impressive combo costs back east, and without the wait required in New York or Chicago.
Perusing the room surrounded by mirrors and Picasso-esque prints, a table of ten soon more than half full, it was after weighing likes and appetites that an order was requested in three courses, the $17.50 Champagne Smash unfortunately starting things off poorly by offering perhaps three good sips amidst a mountain of crushed Ice entirely overwhelmed by Mint.
Receiving another basket of Bread while waiting, several diners remarking on its supple crumb, it was that same Loaf – toasted – that arrived with two styles of Chevre, the first a sliced Terrine that tastes better than it looks thanks to Duck and cracked Pepper while the other is a more spreadable mixture of melted Cheese, bright Herbs and Tomatoes.
Further flooding the table with three $18-$19 “Whole” Salads, halves also available though only the thick-cut Bacon and thicker slices of Tomato stand out, it was much to guests’ surprise that $24 Bone Marrow featured six roasted pieces plus classic accoutrements and Toast, each component prepared beautifully and arguably on par with Jean Georges Steakhouse as Sin City’s best.
On the whole a fairly quiet room, though time and alcohol would slowly see that change, it was as jazz played overhead that Steaks and Sides arrived, the dry-aged Prime easily outperforming a smaller Filet just as Bavette’s triple-stack of Fried Chicken with Potatoes and thick Gravy demanded extra bites instead of Shortrib Stroganoff made with overcooked Pasta and too much Wine.
Perplexed by the price of sides, Pasta with good Cheddar and bits of Black Truffle only a dollar more than a simple Sweet Potato sold for $15, those seeking spice should consider Creamed Corn prepared “Elote” style with plenty of Chili while guests who cannot get enough green will find Bavette’s crispy Brussels Sprouts with Dijon and Parmesan unquestionably unique.
Rounding out the evening with all four Desserts, the fact that Bavette’s offers neither Espresso nor Drip Coffee equally frustrating as the Restaurant’s policy of offering only “natural” sweeteners, it was long-after first bites of Ice Cream had been taken that a French Press finally appeared, the “Hot Fudge Sundae Royale” fairly benign compared to what other local Steakhouses are doing while Carrot Cake and Lemon Meringue with an enormous top-layer take second place to Sodikoff’s Chocolate Cream Pie that needs every bit of the included Whipped Cream to temper its richness.
THREE STARS: Undoubtedly a beautiful Restaurant, and one where a delicious meal can be had by ordering wisely, Bavette’s Steakhouse & Bar suffers from uneven pricing and occasionally questionable execution plus service that falls short of the standard set elsewhere in Las Vegas.
AVOID: Arriving early, expecting the desired Coffee service, Smoked Salmon Caesar lacking any taste of smoke or Salmon, Shortrib Stroganoff, 20x markup Sweet Potato, 50x markup Champagne Smash.
TIP: Servers won’t tell guests, even those taking pictures or straining to see menus, but the brightness of table lamps can be turned up by pressing a button on the bottom.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Half 86th Street Square Pie – Mozzarella Cheese, Tomato Sauce, Half with Pepperoni
Coconut Gelato, Peanut Butter Gelato
Chocolate Fudge Layer Cake
Although Metro Pizza has its own Social Media handle, (mis)managed by an “influencer” like so many others, those looking for Sin City’s most innovative Pies know to follow @everythingbutanchovies, the personal account of Pizzaiolo Chris Decker who can frequently be found showing off his fresh new ideas at the Sky Pointe location.
Acting as the flagship of John Arena and Sam Facchini’s family of pizzerias since November of 2012, an expansive footprint including Lulu’s Bread & Breakfast allowing for lengthy fermentation of Metro’s beautiful Crust, it is upon entry that guests will find themselves greeted by charming hostesses, a number of seating options offered including booths and tables.
Self-appointed “America’s Neighborhood Pizzeria” since the early eighties, though even today so much more, once seated with a menu the most arduous part of a visit comes down to deciding which direction to venture, a collection of Appetizers competing with Pasta and Salad, though complimentary housemade Bread served piping hot with Butter may be enough for those who prefer save room for an extra Slice or two.
Brought north on this particular day by a pair of pictures from Chef Decker, the first an oft-requested special dubbed “Meatbella,” it is in embrace of #instagram that this oversized Pie fuses a traditional Brooklyn Round with the lesser known “Stella,” a star-shaped edge in this case folded around tender Meatballs with a medium-thin middle capable of standing up to a fold despite plenty of Pepperoni, Mozzarella and Tomatoes.
Moving next to Detroit’s Red Top, the style currently experiencing a renaissance from coast-to-coast, it may come as a surprise to many that something thick and loaded with Cheese eats so light and fluffy, but be that as it may the combination of long leavening and good ingredients yields four exquisite slices, each with great diversity of texture thanks to its caramelized lattice.
Not about to forgo Metro’s world-class Sicilian, the “86th Street Square Pie” now offered in halves, it remains as true today as ever that there is no better example of the genre within five-hundred miles (or more) and eating nearly light as the Red Top there will still be plenty of room to try something as unique as Chris’ bounty from Desert Bloom Eco Farm, this week featuring two types of Potatoes plus Peas, their Tendrils and housemade Pesto.
Saving a bit of space for Dessert, Coconut and Peanut Butter Gelato both creamy and not overly sweet, it was leaving Carrot Cake for another day that Chocolate Fudge instead showed off its extra-moist Crumb and layers of Frosting, the addition of a Hot Fudge drizzle as plated further gilding the proverbial lily.
FIVE STARS: Serving Las Vegas for 37+ years and continuously evolving the concept while slowly growing the brand it would be difficult to say anyone has contributed more to Sin City’s love of Pizza than John Arena, and although any brand featuring more than one space may suffer from inconsistency Metro sets a high standard by rewarding their old customer base with predictable greatness while Chris Decker’s creativity looks towards a new era and without ever neglecting the basics – the same synopsis as always since it warrants repeating.
RECOMMENDED: The 86th Street Square Pie and Coconut Gelato are mandatory, but anything offered as a special from @everythingbutanchovies Social Media feed is worth asking about. Be aware, however, that the Detroit-style requires an hour’s notice.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Love Pizza? Consider the Metro Pizzalover’s Club with free Sign-up at Metro Pizzalover’s Club and also check out the calendar of events and specials here.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
French Toast – Brioche, Vanilla Mascarpone, Almond Brittle, Orgeat Syrup
With temperatures in Las Vegas now surpassing 100ᵒF daily it might seem like Brasserie Fare would be a bit too heavy, but on Saturday, much as they have for over four years, Josh Smith and the team at Bardot again put on a spectacular show complete with old favorites and new plates in tune with the season.
Dining on this day as a party of nine, a range of ages from single digits to senior citizens seated at a long table near the Restaurant’s central display of flowers, it was with greetings from familiar staff that the evening started off with a complimentary pour of Bubbles, the 2018 Rosé crisp and not too sugary which allowed it to pair nicely with starters including ground to order Tartare and a daily special of Pate en Croute with big flavor inside golden Pastry from Sous Chef Ty Clark.
Not even trying to resist Bardot’s city-best Baguette, discs of imported Beurre d’Echire spread liberally over the still-warm center, it was next that a labor intensive Salad of King Crab and Endive competed against two types of Foie Gras for top billing, the Parfait still stunning in terms of texture but “Rossini” even more decadent thanks to braised Beef, Black Truffles and Sauce Bordelaise.
Traveling south for Spanish Octopus with heat and acidity, notes of Saffron perfuming each mouthful, it was not long before old and new ideas arrived on wood, Bardot’s infamous Escargot good as ever inside Puff Pastry with plenty of Garlic and Chef Smith’s bar menu “Pop Tarte” showing whimsy without compromising the classic combination of Cheese, Onions and Bacon with Bechamel added at the end to resemble “Frosting.”
With half of a wood-grilled Lobster rounding out Appetizers, because at Bardot the highlight of many French Restaurants does not need to wait, it was with serviceware reset that Entrees began to arrive steadily, a thick Pork Chop standing up to both Mustard and Horseradish thanks to sourcing and smoking while four plump Scallops from a fleet out of New Jersey shine with natural sweetness amidst a mélange of Summer Produce dressed in Brow Butter, Herbs and Sherry.
Never forgetting vertical Macaronis, though this season’s Semolina Gnocchi with Tete de Moine, Mushrooms and Squash in two forms is also a meatless show-stopper, those looking for lighter options may also wish to investigate Roasted Organic Chicken served alongside Sauce Vin Jaune or all-new Sea Bass served with crispy Skin, fried Potatoes and a subtle hint of licorice.
Not lacking in accoutrements, the Chicken’s cast-iron crock of Bread Pudding and brilliant green Falafel offered with eight Bones of New Zealand Lamb both particularly worth mentioning, it was as Chef Smith carefully carved Beef Wellington tableside that guests delved into Duck Breast brightened by Citrus, though no matter how good the Fowl with crispy Skin there is still no better dish in Sin City than Bardot’s Prime Beef protected by Puff Pastry and served with Foie Gras-Madeira Veloute.
Seventeen plates and three sides in at this point, several of the Appetizers additionally ordered double, it was refreshed by Espresso that Dessert came next, a special request for Brunch’s French Toast granted and predictably wowing first timers while old favorites such as the signature Chocolate Macaron, Espresso Crème Brulee and “Cheesecake” Mille Feuille rightfully retain their place amidst newer additions such as Strawberry Shortcake Baked Alaska flambéed tableside.
Frequently honored to ‘test’ new ideas, Chef Smith describing “Gateau Basque Gooey Butter Cake” as the fusion of his Grandmother’s all-American recipe with a Basque classic, it should seem fairly obvious to those familiar that the addition of Cream Cheese and even more Butter to something already rich is over-the-top indulgent, while the Pineapple Tarte Tatin introduced in March remains arguably Bardot’s best new dish of 2019 thanks to its diversity of taste, texture and temperature.
FIVE STARS: Already America’s best Bistro or Brasserie, Summer 2019 sees Bardot at Aria continue to evolve by seamlessly integrating classic technique and clever ideas into elegant plates that look and taste as good as what one will find throughout Europe.
RECOMMENDED: Foie Gras Parfait, Pate en Croute, Seared Foie Gras Rossini, Pop Tarte Flambé, Parisian Gnocchi, Heritage Chicken Roti, Duck a l’Orange, Beef Wellington, Strawberry Shortcake Baked Alaska, Cheesecake Mille Feuille, Pineapple Tarte Tatin, French Toast.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Pate en Croute was a daily special, Pop Tarte Flambé soon to join the Bar Menu and Gateau Basque Gooey Butter Cake a work in progress.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Located on East Flamingo near Maryland Parkway, an area close to UNLV that features substantial competition, India Oven Masala Bar & Grill continues to perform at a very high level under the ownership of Ulzan Mehta.
A union of prior occupant Indian Oven and the Strip’s India Masala, the interior elegantly decorated with Icons and familiar images such as the Taj Mahal, it is daily from 11:00am until 3:00pm that the Restaurant offers its Buffet Lunch, purportedly Las Vegas’ most abundant and on any given day sporting upwards of thirty choices.
Embracing flavors from both North and South India, the $12.99 price within a few dollars of other similar spots but at India Oven Masala Bar & Grill inclusive of bottomless Mango Lassi, it was while sipping the creamy concoction that options were perused, a live-action station turning out fresh, fluffy Naan topped in Butter or Garlic, or golden Dosa for those avoiding Animal products.
Catering to a part of town filled with students and doctors, many of each Indian by descent but the Restaurant’s clientele otherwise quite diverse, it was as music played lightly over Cricket on television that plate one was filled, fried items including Pakora and Samosa both light with oil and bright with seasoning while fermented Rice Cakes were tender and uniquely presented with Curry flavors that paired well to chunky Coconut Chutney.
Making everything on-site from scratch, the Samosa’s inclusion of Caramelized Onions adding an unexpected degree of complexity that compelled eating two more, it is on weekends that guests will also find Upma, the savory Porridge here far better than at Mint while Masala Dosa compare favorably whether enjoyed with or without Tamarind-heavy Sambar.
Next taking a look at two types of Chicken, both Legs and Wings from the tandoor as well as the classic Butter version performing on par with others throughout Las Vegas, a big surprise was Ulzan’s Chana Masala with larger than average Chickpeas that maintain a firm texture despite being cooked slowly amidst Tomatoes, Garlic and Peppers.
Happy with Dal perfumed by Ginger, but less with Spinach lacking the textural variance typically imparted by cubes of Cheese, guests adhering to Vegetable-based diets will also do well to investigate creamy Vegetable Korma or Aloo Gobi teaming with Cauliflower, though the omnivorous should be sure to try those while also saving room for both Chicken and bone-in Goat Curry.
Taste buds sent reeling by housemade Pickles, the intense salinity plus unripe-Mangos immediately cleansing the palate in preparation for Dessert, it was following a bit more Bread topped in Tamarind Chutney that two small bowls delighted, Kheer well-prepared and fragrant with Cardamom while Mango Pudding defined the word smooth without being overly sweet, save for occasional bites of whole Fruit including Cherries.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Visited once for dinner, and utilized for catering several times since, the Lunch Buffet at India Oven Masala continues to show Ulzan Mehta’s commitment to value and quality with a delicious array of options including made-to-order Naan and Dosa plus bottomless Mango Lassi for just $12.99.
Banana Bread Pudding – Banana Bread, White Chocolate, Kahlúa Caramel
Tableside Fire & Ice Banana Split – Hand-turned Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, Caramelized Bananas all the Fun Toppings (Oreo Dust, Caramel, Fudge, Salted Peanuts, Boozy Cherries, Maraschino Cherries, M&Ms, Brownie Bites)
Chocolates – Dark Chocolate Salted Caramel, Milk Chocolate Salted Caramel, Crème de Menthe Chocolate, Crispy Chocolate
Although Scotch 80 Prime has yet to achieve the acclaim of its predecessor, a recent change at the top suggests big things are coming, longtime N9NE Steakhouse Chef Barry Dakake’s departure making way for Daniel Ontiveros while the Pastry program has already been overhauled by former Andre’s and Alize star Tammy Alana.
Now part of Sin City’s culinary landscape for nearly fourteen months, The PALMS “From Dust to Gold” revamp since yielding Vetri Cucina, Kaos, Mabel’s and more, it is at the Casino’s east end that guests will find the Steakhouse lined in art and scantily clad ladies, the former from names like Hirst and Basquiat and the latter pouring drinks in dresses that seemingly defy the laws of physics.
Undoubtedly built to be beautiful, gold and marble the room’s dominant elements beyond all the paintings, it was shortly after seating in a plush booth that servers stopped by, water and Coffee both provided and continually kept full as Aerosmith played overhead at modest volume.
Visited next by PALMS Executive Chef Steve Barr, he and Daniel currently working the kitchen and exploring new ideas for an upcoming menu change, it was not long before Chef Tammy stopped by to describe her approach to Scotch 80, a total of ten items including three hold-overs from Thomas Bell who departed on good terms to pursue other opportunities.
Served in two courses, the first all of Chef Alana’s new additions, guests were immediately challenged with where to start, a distaste for melted Ice Cream inevitably suggesting the elegant Strawberry Rhubarb Crostata perfumed by Orange Blossoms followed by the soon-to-be signature “Scotch & Cigar” that riffs on the idea of Tiramisu with developed notes of smoke in the glass and a crispy Cocoa stogie intended to be dunked like a Cookie.
Catering to less-adventurous palates with classic Crème Brûlée, the elongated form a throwback to Tammy’s days fifty-six floors above and just as delicious, fans of Chocolate will also not be let down by Layer Cake featuring moist Sponge and smooth Ganache given added texture by Pastry shards plus a glass of Vanilla Milk to tame the richness.
Lighter by way of seasonal Sorbet, the Guava particularly impressive, Chef Bell’s sizable Chocolate Peanut Butter Cream Pie next found itself re-imagined as Blueberry Cheesecake brightened by Citrus while guests avoiding all Animal products will be fortunate to indulge in an Almond Coconut Tart topped with Mango cut like a flower by Blackberries from Harry’s family farm in California.
Wise to keep Banana Bread Pudding and Butter Toffee Cake, both served warm and sharable for just $12, the tableside show of “Fire & Ice” Banana Split will set diners back 3x more to witness a bit of modernist technique, though this time moreso than prior the base was satin-smooth while the addition of Hot Fudge plus Salty Caramel Sauce made a big difference in addition to the other “Fun Toppings.”
FIVE STARS (DESSERT, SCENE AND SERVICE): Although Scotch 80 Prime debuted strong in May of 2018 the menu has been slow to change, a Chef shuffle surely part of the reason but the hiring of Andre’s Pastry maven Tammy Alana already offering guests a great reason to visit while a savory revamp from Chefs Steve Barr and Daniel Ontiveros is soon to follow.
AVOID: Not technically something to avoid, but more a question of cost and capacity, the guests’ love of Ice Cream and showmanship will dictate the “worth” of a $36 Banana Split versus up to three alternative Desserts from Chef Tammy.
TIP: Having only recently completed the Scotch 80 Prime menu Mrs. Alana’s next project will be Pastries and Desserts at The PALMS’ 24-hour Lucky Penny.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Key Lime Pie, Red Velvet Whoopie Pie, Banana Cream Pie Parfait, Chocolate Cake Pop
Peach Cobbler
Vanilla Ice Cream with Warm Caramel and Chocolate Pearls
A recurrent favorite for everything from birthdays to The Superbowl it was in celebration of America’s independence that three guests attended Herringbone’s 4th of July Backyard BBQ, an 11:00am until 10:00pm event held across interior and outdoors complete with live music and as much great Food as guests would like to eat.
Now under MGM management for over a month, the transfer from Hakkasan as yet yielding no obvious difference but upcoming changes rumored, it was with greetings from Ceferin Oliva that diners were welcomed to the party, he and Doug Solomon continuing to lead one of the city’s most underrated service teams.
Billed at $59 per patron, a cost similar to Herringbone’s weekend Brunch, it was after obtaining seats that the spread was perused, less variety than Saturday and Sunday made up for by several new dishes including roasted whole Hogs stuffed with an array of Herbs and served with crispy Skin overlying supple flesh protected by a thick Fat layer.
Prepared by Chefs Marty Red DeLeon Lopez and Nyko Christian, both men sweating in the sun alongside their team while preparing Ribs, Salmon and delectable Cornish Hens perfumed by Lemongrass, it was inside air conditioned environs that Bartenders crafted special Jack Daniel’s Cocktails, the Lynchburg Lemonade a deceptively easy sipper and “My Jack It’s Smashing” a perfect complement to everything served thanks to bright Citrus and Ginger.
Expectedly offering quality Shellfish, no Oysters but plenty of Shrimp, Crab and Lobster, sides also shined with American heritage, the “Loaded” Pommes Puree and Beans with Bacon particularly good, though so too were housemade Pickles, Pulled Pork and chilled Potato Salad graciously devoid of Mustard.
Taking seconds of both Lechon as well as spoon-tender Short Ribs, not to mention four Cornbread Muffins with Butter and sweetness in great balance, Dessert also fared well with Key Lime Pie and Banana Cream Parfaits each deserving attention, though the individual mini-Cobblers were pointless and messy when capacity and calories could be better spent on housemade Ice Cream with a variety of Toppings.
N/A: Difficult to rate as a one-off event that was very poorly marketed by MGM Public Relations, suffice it to say that those fortunate enough to attend received quite a treat and considering price, quality, service and setting it would be difficult to name a better way to celebrate America on the Strip than at Herringbone.
AVOID: Mac & Cheese was pretty basic and the Peach Cobbler’s presentation was frankly awful with chunks of Fruit nearly the same size as their service vessel.
TIP: Brunch runs 10:00am to 3:00pm Saturday and Sunday with similar all you can eat format and even greater variety.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Only open for eight days, but poised to establish itself as a destination in southwest Las Vegas, Locale Italian Kitchen hosted a Media dinner on Saturday featuring a baker’s dozen dishes from former Carnevino and Eataly Chef Nicole Brisson.
Setting out to explore the sort of Food one might find in rural Italy, artisan imports alongside locally-sourced Meats and Produce building a menu comprising Pizzas, Pastas, Appetizers and Entrees, it is at the far end of a complex also containing Albertson’s that guests will find Locale, the interior best described as modern barn-house right down to the doors.
High-ceilinged but not overly large, just seventy-five seats between the main dining room and bar area, it is via partnership with Andy Hooper of Black Sheep that Locale aims to bring guests a relaxed experience with quality cuisine at a fair price, the Aperol Spritz from Mixologist Erin Hall a good place to start as Antipasti including Crostini with Anchovies and crispy Pork brightened by Balsamic play elegantly off sparkling Citrus.
Less impressed by overcooked Octopus, an ingredient Chef Brisson previously executed with great dexterity inside the Palazzo, it was right back on track that Pork Jowl thrilled as Fritters next to Onion Jam though the $20 Mozzarella Tasting would have benefited from an element of contrast, whether that be Bread, Pickles or perhaps Olives.
Prone to gauge the quality of an Italian Kitchen by its Pasta, even a Steakhouse like Carnevino, course two offered three distinct ideas that performed above average, the Linguini a touch limp without a lot of heat though the Mussels were good, while housemade Ravioli and Garganelli were well-Sauced but more noteworthy for their respective Noodles than the Ragu, particularly as relates to the former which needed a bit more Salt or Pancetta.
Described on the website as “Meat-centric” it should be no surprise that Secondi make up large portion of Locale’s menu, and although neither the New York Strip’s price nor heritage will send guests reeling the flavor is good, though better bites are found in intrepid Arctic Char cooked perfectly amidst Leeks and Chilis as well as organic Chicken that is tender and complexly seasoned atop toothsome Cornmeal.
Not yet publishing a Dessert menu, but finishing the meal with Flourless Chocolate Cake and boozy Pudding made even better by housemade Caramel perfumed with Rosemary, this early look at Locale shows potential for greatness, and given Nicole’s track record there’s little doubt Mountain’s Edge is already better for hers and Mr. Hooper’s presence.
N/A: Obviously unfair to judge such an event, Locale clearly has its sights set on becoming not only a neighborhood Restaurant but something more, and thus some time plus a party smaller than forty would probably be a better way to properly gauge the dishes individually.
RECOMMENDED: Crostini, Guancia Fritti, Housemade Garganelli, Pollo al Forno, Pan Seared Arctic Char, Plantation Rum Budino.
AVOID: Octopus, Linguine.
TIP: Dinner Daily from 4:30-10:00pm
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Bourbon Fudge Brownie, Brown Butter Bacon Ice Cream
Glazed Donut Bread Pudding, Three Rum Caramel, Vanilla Crème Anglaise
Some say “only invest what you can afford to lose” in a Restaurant, the majority fizzling out within twelve months and less than a quarter surviving five years, so the very fact that Cory Harwell and Kerry Simon ever opted to open downtown should be considered a risky decision, yet in retrospect Las Vegas owes a debt of gratitude to the duo and its staff because had they not taken that chance Off-Strip dining would likely not be what it is today.
Called Carson Kitchen for the historic John E. Carson Hotel it is housed in, the address actually 124 South 6th Street, it was June 2014 that items such as Chicken Skins and Bacon Jam first surfaced in a previously rough area, initial reviews largely positive not only in terms of cuisine but an atmosphere that was trendy without trying to hard plus Drinks from self-taught Mixologist and manager Matthew Harwell.
Now sixty months older, a minimum of three yearly menu changes yielding several hits but also the occasional miss for a kitchen never afraid to be opinionated, Summer 2019 sees the team now toqued by Kerry’s brother Scott looking back while also moving forward, expansion to Georgia and Utah expected by year’s end while the current menu features greatest hits dating back to the start including the aforementioned Poultry Cracklins’ and Kerry’s famous charred Edamame tossed in “Killer” Spices.
Never short of ambitious, this retrospective neatly showcasing both Simon and Harwell’s predilection for bold flavors and an ability to showcase less common ingredients in ways that even timid diners will find acceptable, it was utilizing the same smoked Honey served with the Skins that Matthew paired course one to a balanced Bees Knees, its sweetness helping to tame the heat while citrus played well off crispy Tomatoes topped in freshly picked Crab Meat.
Playing Radiohead as a server dressed in an AC/DC T-shirt performed at a level on par with the Strip’s best, it was alongside the refreshing Girl from Ipanema that a classic combination of Watermelon and Cucumber came next, flavors fit for summer followed by a bit of southern cookin’ in the form of Blackened Catfish and salty Taso Ham each lightened by greenery including snappy Spring Pea Slaw with the former and herbaceous Pistou on the Flatbread.
Serving a second iteration of Purple Haze for course three, this edition with Vodka a smooth sipper that pairs well with anything on Carson Kitchen’s menu, fans of last year’s Broccoli Crunch will be happy to know the Crucifer is back in all its glory while Beets that never left are still delicious, as too is the ever-present Mushroom Pizza whose “best” all-time version was deemed that which marryied Bleu Cheese to Caramelized Onions.
Not shy with spice, Matthew smartly serving a modified Beachcomber to help tame the heat of chopped Jalapenos on top of juicy Pork, it was to the delight of two separate diners that both a Wild Boar Sloppy Joe and Chicken slicked with Alabama White Sauce were deemed worthy champions in their respective categories, the Aioli on the Sandwich particularly well-matched to the Tiki Drink’s Cointreau.
Not about to miss Dessert, only one “new” item joining the Bread Pudding and Brownie that should never leave, it would be hard for anything to best personal-favorite Banoffee Pie, though in terms of season as well as excellence the Peach Upside-Down Cake topped in Whipped Cream spiked with locally brewed Beer isn’t far off.
FIVE STARS: Poised for expansion five years after making downtown Las Vegas a dining destination, Carson Kitchen’s Summer menu takes a look back at some of Kerry, Cory as well as Matthew’s greatest recipes and brings back fond memories for many while re-introducing the ideas that got them there to others.
Triple Chocolate Mousse Cake with Chocolate Ganache, Emeril’s Banana Cream Pie, Pecan Pie with Oatmeal Shortbread Crust and Vanilla Ice Cream, Lemon Coconut Trifle
Coconut Sorbet, Lemon Sorbet, Watermelon Sorbet
Not overly upset, but admittedly disappointed with an event booked at Delmonico Steakhouse in early June, it was on the invite of Ronnie Rainwater that three guests returned on Friday, the Chef stating he did not expect any photos or re-written reviews noted but the strength of what was served clearly deserving of praise and more like what several prior visits to Emeril’s Restaurants had yielded in terms of creativity and execution.
Again offered as a family-style tasting, this time in a high-ceilinged room surrounded by Wine and music from Sinatra as well as Dean Martin, it was with Iced Tea and Water poured that things got off to a fast start, the first of three Popovers arriving piping hot and ready to be enjoyed with or without Whipped Butter.
Never slacking in terms of service, a consistent theme across all of Legasse’s Restaurants from Florida to New Orleans and Las Vegas, it was from a female captain and male busser that the evening proceeded with the first of several visits from Chef Rainwater, a collection of “Bar Snacks” typically served in the lounge highlighted by feather-light Pork Cracklins and Deviled Eggs topped in domestic Caviar.
Also treated to spicy Chicken Skins, heated but not much as to dull the palate to later flavors, course two offered three Salads of superior quality, the tableside Caesar classic right down to Anchovies crushed in a wooden bowl while Praline Bacon and deep fried Eggs found levity in Sherry Vinaigrette alongside sections of King Crab tossed with Lettuce, Avocados and Green Goddess.
Finishing all but a few Leaves of Romaine, in retrospect perhaps unwise considering the abundance of Food to come, it was again as a trio that Appetizers came plated, the Octopus a little tough along its small end but otherwise enjoyable while Emeril’s iconic Shrimp and a generous slice of Duck Liver atop a Waffle with plenty of poached Figs were both exemplary dishes that rank amongst the best in town.
Receiving a thick-cut of Kurobuta Pork Belly later, another Delmonico classic that is big on flavor but balanced by New Orleans Root Beer Glaze plus housemade Pickles, entrees and sides soon arrived on a chopping block, the Piedmontese tenderloin exceptionally lean while Prime Black Angus Beef from Kansas also fared beautifully, though neither raised eyebrows quite the same way as Rabbit Saddle stuffed with dark Meat and cooked with spices in the style of Porchetta.
Happy to see some Side Dishes during this visit, a noteworthy omission from prior, guests seeking a bit of spice will be happy to know Creamed Corn offers plenty while Confit Fingerlings, creamy Grits made stretchy with Cheddar and a big bowl of Morels teaming with Garlic all showcased their ingredients with getting overly clever or complicated.
Stuffed but always happy to make room for Dessert from Emeril, a double Espresso and three Sorbets guiding the transition from savory to sweet, suffice it to say that both Banana Cream Pie and the Tart filled with Pecans remain unmatched while Triple Chocolate Mousse and Sour Lemon Curd paired to Coconut Cream are nicely constructed and well-suited to those who prefer to finish with their respective flavors.
N/A: Not offering a rating for this meal, the fact that Chef Rainwater requested such specifically why, it is meals of this nature that have cemented Emeril Legasse as a favorite ever since first visiting his Orland Restaurant in 2001, and if “service recovery” is an art there is no doubt Delmonico offered a master’s level course in it on Friday.
Still celebrating the closure of Donut Mania, though another Instagram-fad has since popped up trying to convince west-siders to spend $9.85 on a Doughnut, it is great news for Las Vegas that Pinkbox recently opened a third location inside the former ACE Donuts on the corner of Tropicana and Fort Apache Road.
Recently settled into 9435 West Tropicana Avenue, a complex known as Crossroads Plaza Shopping Center, it is beneath familiar signage that guests will find Roberto Armanino’s concept that brought designer fried Dough to Las Vegas in 2012, and despite Roberto ceding some aspects of day-to-day management earlier this year the collection has continued to show a knack for risk taking without ignoring the technique that got them to where they are.
Not yet a 24-hour location like Lake Mead or Henderson, but featuring an equally amicable staff plus space to sit down, it is immediately on entry that guests will notice a diversity of choices ranging Classic to “Show Offs,” prices still a fraction of what one pays in other metropolitan areas and cheaper by the full, or half, dozen.
Focusing this visit on old favorites and recent debuts, the shutter of ACE depriving Sin City of an excellent Blueberry Fritter but Pinkbox stepping in to fill that void with a crisp and fruity version of their own, it was after this and one packed with Cherries that “Mango Tango” took center-stage, the combination of Tajin and Chamoy just enough to brighten otherwise excellent housemade Filling without trending too spicy.
Now naming every item in stock, Croissant-Doughnut hybrids dubbed DoughCro light and laminated whether rolled in Cinnamon-Sugar or topped with Orange Zest Icing and filled with White Cream like a Hostess Orange Cupcake, it is in reference to local things that both “Golden Knight” and “The Goodman” perform well, the former topping Pinkbox’s Yeast ring with White Chocolate Morsels and Peanut Butter while the second features an Old-Fashioned cog given added texture by gold Sprinkles and Icing.
Taking a seasonal cue with “Sup Shorty,” just $3 yielding a mountain of Strawberries and Cream on a fluffy round with Vanilla and Graham Crackers, the “Flaming Redhead” proves much more divisive by placing Hot Cheetos on a similar base, the idea best suited for #thegram while Buttermilk Bars with and without Streusel are less photogenic but world-class and a persistent example of Pinkbox’s commitment to doing things the right way.
Further improving the line-up with housemade Fillings, minimally-sweetened Banana Pudding noteworthy in a genre where artificial flavoring is far too frequently seen, Raspberry Jam complete with Seeds remains another highlight as does thick Caramel Cream Cheese and the completely re-invented “Key West” featuring vibrant Lime Gel beneath Crust Crumbles and Whipped Topping.
Saving Chocolate for the finale, Pinkbox’s Cocoa-infused Cake more moist than remembered beneath two textures of Peanuts, it is on a Yeast footprint that the sweet and savory combination of Pretzels, Caramel and Chocolate are offered while the now-iconic Poomoji named “Pooh” delights as much in taste as it does in appearance thanks to soft Ganache and smooth Buttercream.
FIVE STARS: A fan of the staff and fried Dough at ACE it was a little sad when the store closed, but leave it to Las Vegas’ best Doughnut shop to step in and fill the void with old favorites and fun new ideas at prices less than a third of what some places are trying to convince guests is appropriate.
RECOMMENDED: Cherry Fritter, Mango Tango, Golden Knight, Sup Shorty, Orange Face DoughCro, Buttermilk Bar with Streusel, Raspberry Squeeze, Key West, Pooh.
AVOID: The Flaming Redhead is most certainly an “acquired taste.”
TIP: Mon-Thu 5am-2pm and Fri-Sun 5am-5pm, 10% off six and 20% discount on a dozen.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Previously visited four months prior, an impromptu dinner during Las Vegas’ snowfall discovering The Venetian’s replacement for B&B Burgers & Beer to be a more fully-envisioned concept built around the same kind of Food, it was on Saturday evening that Black Tap Craft Burgers & Beer was again found jumping, a brief wait in the queue outside soon seating three guests in a comfortable booth.
Still popular nearly 18-months after opening, fair prices and Social Media savvy combined with excellent service undoubtedly part of Black Tap’s appeal, it was learning from previous mistakes of ordering everything at once that three Sandwiches were requested first, the high volume of patrons creating nearly thirty minutes delay during which wait-staff repeatedly stopped by with updates as The Notorious B.I.G. rapped overhead.
Louder than remembered, both the music and several tables of teenagers on summer break contributing, it was in the middle of a conversation about the rise of “upscale” Burgers that three arrived simultaneously, Chef Isidori’s signature Truffle Burger featuring ground Wagyu, smoked Gouda and two truffled toppings immediately setting a high bar while Fries were crisp, hot and appropriately salted.
Continuing with two SoHo staples built on Prime Beef from Pat LaFrieda, the iconic butcher’s Patty unfortunately a bit overcooked in the case of Black Tap’s Pizza Burger crowned by fried Mozzarella, it was instead the Chili Cheese Burger that impressed by way of both its medium center and Brioche Bun that stands up surprisingly well to meaty Chili and thick Cheese Sauce.
Underwhelmed by Onion Rings and their non-adherent coating, but happy with Sweet Potato Fries in a reversal from last visit, it was after watching staff build CrazyShakes for over an hour that three were finally ordered, the fact that all threaten to topple over a given but the bases all rich and creamy with the recently-debuted Churro Choco Taco Cinnamon Toast Crunch Shake particularly memorable as it tasted like Cereal Milk beneath a frozen treat that hadn’t been tasted in over a decade.
FOUR STARS: Although many will argue that there is nothing quite like a classic Burger it would be hard to claim Black Tap is not dedicated to their craft, a Patty of Prime Beef from Pat LaFrieda the base to several fun concoctions supported by a good Bun while the eye-candy Shakes are silly but delicious, and backed by great service.
RECOMMENDED: The Truffle Burger, Chili Cheese Burger, French Fries, Churro Choco Taco Cinnamon Toast Crunch Shake.
AVOID: The Pizza Burger was overcooked but otherwise enjoyable, Onion Rings a mess and Chocolate Brownies on top of The Brooklyn Blackout dry.
TIP: Open 11am until midnight Sunday through Thursday, and until 2am on Friday as well as Saturday.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Although few but those staying inside Paradise Tower and former ReHab attendees likely know it is there, Fuel Cafe at The Hard Rock Hotel & Casino offers fresh Sandwiches, Coffee and more, including several Pastries from Chef Mickey Harden.
Best seen as a grab n’ go operation, though a standing bar inside and comfortable couches just a few feet away are ready to greet those who wish to relax, it was several hours after Brunch at Pink Taco that a half-dozen items were enjoyed as an afternoon snack, first bites of Coffee Cake topped by and wrapped around Pecans immediately impressive in terms of its buttery sweetness and diverse textures.
Next taking a taste of Trail Mix, an all-natural amalgam of Almonds and toasted Coconut bound by dried Fruit, those focused on getting their Protein without Meat should consider Dark Chocolate and Peanut Butter holding together Soy Crisps while those more interested in indulgence should steer their sights towards a Peanut Butter and Jelly Bar that spins a childhood favorite as Dessert with extra sweetness and no Crust.
Sold at just $4 a slice, or approximately half what Milk Bar at The Cosmopolitan charges for items of equal heft and creativity, Mickey packs all the elements of a Birthday Cake into Fuel’s “Funfetti Cookie Bar” complete with Frosting while the seasonal Strawberry Lemonade Blondie is moist, dense and tangy beneath Streusel topping that add a subtle buttery-ness to what otherwise reminisces of Chess Pie.
FOUR STARS: Somewhat secluded, but worth seeking out thanks to Chef Harden’s skills, Fuel Café offers another example of how Hard Rock Hotel & Casino forgoes shortcuts to give guests more than they expect, even on the go in a space most visitors don’t realize exists.
RECOMMENDED: Pecan Pie Coffee Cake, PB&J Bar, Funfetti Cookie Bar, Strawberry Lemonade Blondie.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Open 6:00 AM – 7:00 PM Daily.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Although Bradley Manchester has been hard at work with the transition to Virgin Hotels, that has not stopped he and Mickey Harden from coming up with some new ideas across the building currently called Hard Rock Hotel & Casino, and at Pink Taco on Saturday morning several items made their debut alongside some old favorites.
A part of Las Vegas for nearly twenty-five years, the California import now old enough to be considered iconic, Pink Taco resides just steps from The Joint and is the only Restaurant besides Nobu that remains since the property on Paradise opened, its self-applied description as a “hipster Mexican Cantina” underselling what is actually a space that doesn’t take itself too seriously despite turning out bold and frequently authentic flavors.
Large in size, and best during warm months when the party spills over onto an outdoor patio, it is after making way past a Tortilla stone, kitchen and bar that guest find themselves immersed in Mexican folk-art, everything from skeletons to cherubs surrounding while music plays overhead at a reasonable volume.
The rare place still serving complimentary Chips and Salsa, both housemade and setting a high standard, fans of Tequila will likely find themselves drawn to Cocktails with risqué names and pronounced sweetness, the “Horchata Colada” taking an alternative approach with Cinnamon Rum and performing beautifully alongside Pastry Chef Harden’s new Churro Brioche with a creamy Dulce de Leche core.
Acting as a sounding board for much of the meal, the reservation not accidentally made on a day when Chefs Harden and Manchester were both present to assist Pink Taco’s Chef de Cuisine Hugo Rodriguez with new plates soon to join Brunch or Happy Hour, guests not counting carbohydrates will be excited to know that Mickey quietly continues to prove himself as one of Sin City’s best Pastry Chefs with two additional Appetizers, Cornbread hot from a skillet riddled with Chorizo plus added moisture from Zucchini, and a Cinnamon Roll topped in Cream, Cajeta and Berries that riffs on the flavor of Tres Leches Cake without the sogginess that many find off-putting.
Not ignoring patrons seeking healthier fare, all three Chefs currently pursuing their own fitness goals, guests who cannot get enough Avocado Toast should strongly consider the new vegetarian Mollete additionally featuring Refried Beans and housemade Salsa while those following keto can find big flavors and nothing off-limits in tender Meatballs topped in smoky Sauce or Aguachiles indistinguishable from what one might find south of the border save for their slightly lower spot on the Scoville scale.
Back to Mickey for a moment, his Cinnamon-Sugar Donuts with Abuelita Mousse toying with the idea of Mexican Hot Chocolate and outperforming the fresh-made rounds one will find at Fractured Prune or even Delmonico Steakhouse, it is through considerable effort that Pink Taco’s most impressive new plate delivers boldly flavored Shrimp cooked in Butter fortified by Shells and Garlic, each bite dazzling from the fork and even better when nestled in a Corn Tortilla hot off the stone.
Impressed by the veracity of flavors from Veracruz to the Yucatan, Chef Manchester’s affinity for the area no secret to those who follow him on Social Media, another new plate delivers slowly braised Pork as a Benedict, the English Muffin perhaps better replaced by Bolillo or Sopes as they do at Broken Yolk Café, while Chilaquiles served wet and Tater Tots topped in housemade Mole plus fried Peanuts each offer textural rollercoasters that are best shared given their substantial portion-sizes.
Not afraid to both start and finish sweet, though prices lower than portions or quality might suggest already had several diners over-sated, it should go without saying that Pink Taco’s buttery Tres Leches Pancakes topped with Fried Ice Cream are a must while new items including Choco-Flan and Pineapple Cake that eats like a Financier amidst the flavors of a Piña Colada are each “works in progress” that already best other Mexican Desserts served throughout town.
N/A STARS: Intentionally inauthentic, but simultaneously embracing flavors and techniques that continue to please guests from a variety of backgrounds, Pink Taco has been doing things the right way ever since Bradley Manchester took over as Hard Rock Hotel & Casino’s Executive Chef and the new menu shows he, Mickey Harden and the current kitchen led by Hugo Rodriguez have no intention of pumping the breaks until Hard Rock temporarily shutters in 2020 to make way for Virgin.
TIP: Only the Cocktails, Chilaquiles and Tres Leches Pancakes are currently available, though several of the new items will debut soon in mostly-similar form.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Valrhona Chocolate Mousse, Jack Daniels Ice Cream, Mandarin Orange
French Press Coffee
Almond Biscotti, Dark Chocolate, Pistachio Cherry Cake, Lemon Meringue Tart
Opened in the earliest days of 2009 it seems hard to believe that Sinatra has been serving guests at Encore for over a decade, yet despite the recent closures of Portofino, Fiamma and Masso Osteria the Italian Restaurant dedicated to Old Blue Eyes quietly marches on with a Thursday during Vegas’ typically-slow summer finding the space nearly full around 7:00pm.
Now under the guidance of Chef Luke Palladino since November of 2017, his tenure at short-lived Salute a return to Las Vegas after time in Atlantic City as well as Pennsylvania, longtime locals may remember Palladino as the opening Chef at Onda inside the Mirage and with training both there as well as Italy the Chef’s resume checks all the boxes for Food that carefully bridges American Red Sauce to handmade Pastas dressed as they may be in Tuscany.
Recently hiring Joe Marsco, the former General Manager at Andre’s returning to the upscale environs in which he has previously shined, it is passing by several murals of Frank and the Rat Pack that guests are led to linen-clad tables, Wynn’s Golf Course hidden behind shrubbery outside and the room itself given an air of grandiosity while a collection of its namesake’s hits play overhead.
Not an overly long menu, just some of Sinatra’s favorites alongside Appetizers, Pastas and Sides prepared from quality ingredients, it was with two guests poured Wine that Chef Palladino appeared porting his nightly amuse, three Squash Blossoms delicately fried around a creamy Cheese center and brightened by Red Pepper Cream.
Next taking a look at Bread service, four styles baked in-house highlighted by laminated coils of Brioche as well as salty Olive Twists, it was not long before primi arrived in the form of portioned Pastas and Rice technically sold as a side-dish, the latter showcasing early summer with Herbs and earth on a creamy background while Caramelle that tastes like Beef Stew inside dainty packages outperformed Agnolotti that were undercooked with Noodles also a bit too thick.
Unimpressed by $20 Meatballs, the orbs over-worked and Sauce skimpy though fried lengths of Polenta were excellent, it was onward to entrees at Strip-prices that dinner proceeded, Halibut bathed in Saffron and poignant Licorice notes getting a little lost while plate-size Veal Parm for $62 and fork-tender Ossobuco “My Way” both throw their hat into the conversation for best in The Valley.
Speaking of Hats, or more specifically the Trilby, it is in the form of Frank’s iconic lid that guests often finish the evening, soft Chocolate Mousse pairing well to Ice Cream spiked with Whiskey while Harry’s beautiful Berries are featured prominently inside a textbook Crostata and alongside filled-to-order Cannolis that even natives of Sicily will likely find impressive.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: With several Italian Restaurants closing across Las Vegas in recent years, amongst them Portofino, Fiamma and Masso Osteria, Sinatra at Wynn marches on despite very little press, though dinner on Thursday leads one to wonder why as Luke Palladino’s Food is very good while the service staff including Joe Marsco does a marvelous job keeping up with the large crowds readily willing to pay Strip prices.
Good Pep Brooklyn Round – Mozzarella, Fresh Mozzarella, Grana, Tomato Sauce, Pepperoni
Good White Detroit Style – Mozzarella, Fresh Mozzarella, Pecorino, Garlic Oil, Fresh Whipped Ricotta, Shaved Parm, Fresh Parsley
It’s All Good Detroit Style – Tomato Sauce, Mozzarella, Fresh Mozzarella, Pecorino, Italian Sausage, Shaved Red Onion, Chili Flakes, Mike’s Hot Honey, Shaved Parm, Fresh Parsley
The Supreme Good Detroit Style – Tomato Sauce, Mozzarella, Fresh Mozzarella, Pecorino, Pepperoni, Caramelized Onions, Red Onion, Green Bell Peppers, Black Olives, Roasted Mushrooms
Good Balls – Homemade Beef and Pork Meatballs, Marinara Sauce, Fresh Parm, Fresh Parsley
Good Garlic Knots – Roasted Fresh Garlic, Garlic Confit, Garlic Oil, Mozzarella, Garlic Chips, Fresh Grated Grana Padano, Fresh Parsley, served with Marinara Sauce
Good Caesar Salad – Locally Grown Baby Romaine, Grated Grana Cheese, Housemade Croutons, Good Caesar Dressing
With news now out that Vincent Rotolo will be opening a more complete vision of Good Pie on Main Street it seemed only right to #supportlocal with some of his top quality Pizza on Thursday, and just like visits one, two and three the results spoke volumes about passion, personality and quality Ingredients.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone Good Pie remains as enjoyable delivered as it is in store regardless of what Rotolo will tell you, and if anyone has not had the chance to check it out by now then they owe it to themselves to do so immediately because in six tries there has yet to be one bad bite on the menu.
RECOMMENDED: A Good Time Brooklyn Round, Good Calzone, It’s All Good Detroit Style, Upside Down Grandma Style, Good Balls, Good Garlic Knots.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Open 11am daily with online or phone orders available, delivery offered via Postmates within a 5-mile radius.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Charred Romanesco, Coconut, Lime, Crispy Garlic, Mint
65-Day Dry Aged and Wood Roasted Porterhouse basted in Miso Butter, Naan, American Banchan
Duck Confit & Sweet Potato Dumplings, Calabrian Chili, Five Spice
Japanese Sweet Potato, Salted Plum Crème Fraiche, Lap Cheong
Broccolini from the Fire, Avocado, Poblano Pepper, Garlic Confit
Scallops Carpaccio, Seared Foie Gras, Walnut, Ras El Hanout, Lemon
Coconut Panna Cotta, Kaffir Lime, Sour Cherries, Tuile
Blueberry Tart, Cucumber Gel, Bay Leaf Cremeaux
Roasted Peanut + Chocolate Bar, Caramelized White Chocolate, Cocoa Nib
Frequently asked by regional pharmaceutical representatives for suggestions on where to hold meetings Sparrow + Wolf has become a top choice, the addition of a PDR comfortable for twenty expanding possibilities while Brian Howard’s Food opens eyes to what is feasible rather than just what is comfortable.
Now in its third year of operation, the buzz died down but crowds still present at volumes that keep the Restaurant busy seven days a week, it is upon entering the foyer featuring Christmas Story’s leg lamp that guests are greeted by a hostess, reservations confirmed and seating offered in one of two rooms or at a bar that is frequently found full of industry workers.
Fully occupying the Private Dining Room and Library during this visit, multimedia outlets allowing for a thirty minute presentation while dining on a tasting menu pre-selected by Chef Howard, it was with a glass of Bubbles $3 cheaper than one will find on The Strip that Bread was delivered, the housemade rounds still steaming when broken and Butter flecked with Nori quickly melting and soaking into a pillowy crumb coated in Seeds.
Served in three family-style courses, none of them ‘dumbed down’ despite a crowd that featured many guests more accustomed to events at Bonefish Grill or Del Frisco’s, it was with service befitting the situation that John Anthony and team made sure everything progressed smoothly, round one’s Steak Tartare outstanding yet somewhat polarizing considering the crowd while wood-fired Romanesco with Thai inspiration and Swordfish Aguachiles that bounced back and forth between sweet and savory both showed the kitchen’s confidence with bold flavors and ingredients less commonly utilized.
Perfectly paced despite a throng of reservations for Restaurant Week, Brian later claiming that Sparrow + Wolf’s special menu offers the “best value in town,” it was just as the speaker came to her finish that course two flooded four tables, the assortment of “American Banchan” grabbing attention and holding it with Miso Spinach, creamy Octopus and Potato Pave while the 65-Day Dry Aged Porterhouse basted in Miso Butter delighted all but the rare guest who still thinks “Well” is the only appropriate temperature for a Steak.
Not nearly finished, the Duck and Sweet Potato Dumplings previously felt compromised by too much Chili Oil now more refined including a thinner skin, fans of heat should additionally order grilled Broccolini served alongside raw Avocados and poignant Poblano Peppers while everyone in Las Vegas that isn’t Vegetarian should request at least one baked Sweet Potato topped in Salted Plum Crème Fraiche and snappy bits of housemade Chinese Sausage.
Adding an off-menu bonus, the combination of Scallops and Foie Gras recently seen at Michelin 3* Restaurant Vendôme presented by Chef Howard as a complex Carpaccio with heterogeneity of texture as well as temperature amidst herbs and acid, it was with three Desserts that dinner reached its conclusion, the lack of Honey Toast disappointing at least a handful though the Chocolate Bar and Blueberry Tart both shined despite restrained sweetness while Coconut Panna Cotta proved a favorite for those seeking something light.
FIVE STARS: Never lacking confidence, though occasionally going overboard in the use of discrepant ingredients, this visit to Sparrow + Wolf found Chef Howard and his team cooking at their highest level yet, and although still not a Restaurant for “everyone” the menu managed to impress a highly diverse group ranging broadly in terms of age, race and dining experience.
RECOMMENDED: Hearth Baked Bread, Swordfish Aguachile, 65-Day Dry Aged Porterhouse, Japanese Sweet Potato, Roasted Peanut + Chocolate Bar, Scallops Carpaccio, Blueberry Tart.
AVOID: Be sure to inquire about the individual Banchan as some pack quite a bit of Heat.
TIP: The PDR comfortably seats twenty at separate or communal tables, and menus are highly customizable. Call 702-790-2147 or e-mail info@sparrowandwolflv.com for details.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Honey Graham Cracker Cookie with Sweet Honey Butter and Honey Drizzle
Biscoff Lava Cookie with Biscoff Cookie Butter Filling and Biscoff Cookie Crumbles
Chocolate Chip Cookie
Buckeye Brownie Cookie with Peanut Butter Mousse and Milk Chocolate Drizzle
Originated in Logan, Utah, Crumbl took the city by storm, their Instagramable rounds now offered in thirty stores across six states with Las Vegas’ first arriving late 2018 at 8085 Blue Diamond Road followed by a second in Centennial.
Created by Sawyer Hemsley and Jason McGowan, rapid expansion through franchising likely one part of why an attempted visit to the southwest store went so poorly on day two when the location had only $3 Chocolate Chip Cookies for sale as part of a less-than “grand opening,” it is now six months in that the store has settled in, though their product is still hit-and-miss.
Undoubtedly popular in part due to photogenicity, though a cold interior oversells the fact that everything is made from scratch, the first thing those entering will notice is Crumbl’s limited collection of just six weekly flavors, four specials alongside Sugar slathered in cloying pink Icing plus Chocolate Chip that uses all Milk Chocolate and trends far too sweet.
Still a young company, so much success despite only starting in September 2017 certainly enviable, better bites come from weekly specials that included “Biscoff Lava” 06/10/19 through 6/15/19, Cookie Butter in three forms highlighted by a drizzle on top since the “molten” center is really not all that different from the otherwise undercooked perimeter.
Offered via delivery from 10:00am until Midnight Monday through Saturday, dark Sundays reminiscent of Chick-fil-a, it was next that a Snickerdoodle disappointed by simultaneously being both soft yet dry as a result of too much Cinnamon, the Honey Graham Cracker Cookie a dramatic improvement with Sweet Honey Butter Frosting while “Buckeye Brownie” tugged at the heartstrings of Ohioans despite the same homogenous and cakelike texture from edge to center.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: With Cookies currently seeing a surge in popularity Utah-import Crumbl lures guests in by rotating flavors weekly, June’s second collection highly successful with Honey Graham Cracker and Biscoff Lava though Sugar and Chocolate Chip are frankly bad while the lack of any textural variance in the base makes everything seem under-baked and cakelike rather than “crumbl-y.”
RECOMMENDED: Honey Graham Cracker, Biscoff Lava.
AVOID: Chocolate Chip, Snickerdoodle, Sugar
TIP: $3 each or $10 for four, and one free with Yelp! Check-in. Delivery range and offerings found at www.crumblcookies.com/order
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
