In Memoriam. Intentionally inauthentic, but simultaneously embracing flavors and techniques that always tried to please guests from a variety of backgrounds, no matter what Virgin brings to Las Vegas Pink Taco and Hard Rock Hotel & Casino will be missed.
Pinenut Seafood Dumpling, Steamed Eggplant with XO Sauce, Treasure Taro Cake, Cheesy Black Truffle Scallop, Freshwater Eel Toast, Abalone Dried Oyster and Sea Moss Chicken Wrap, Seared Chicken and Mushroom Bun
Sea Moss Black Mushroom Siew Mai, Bamboo Shoot Shrimp Dumpling, Squid Ink Custard Steamed Bun, Milky Puff Pastry Baked Bun, Purple Yam Mochi Pastry, Lotus Sesame Ball, Sticky Rice with Chicken wrapped in Lotus Leaf, Steamed Golden Oyster and Sea Moss
Maine Lobster Pastry, Coconut Rice Cake, New Year Puff Pastry, Cheese Tart, Cantonese BBQ Pork Bun, Treasure Taro Cake, Freshwater Eel Toast
Coconut Milk Soup with Taro and Yam
Lotus Sesame Ball, Sticky Rice with Chicken wrapped in Lotus Leaf, Cucumber and Wood Ear Mushroom with Premier Soya Sauce, Jelly Fish with Shredded Pickled Cabbage, Seared Chicken and Mushroom Bun
In the era of Social Media and Public Relations it is rare to see any sort of dining event kept “secret,” but for two weeks each year Jasmine at The Bellagio quietly opens its doors during daylight hours for a Dim Sum Brunch celebrating the New Year, first in a global sense and then to commemorate the Chinese version.
Unadvertised save for a colorful board outside the Restaurant, this year spanning January 25th to February 1st from 11:00am until 2:30pm, it is approximately fifteen minutes prior to opening etched doors that guests begin queuing, never mind the fact that most have reservations but rather for the chance to sit with an unobstructed view of Bellagio’s famous fountains.
Attended for the third consecutive year, a cost of $68.88 per diner and just $20.00 for children far lower than Jasmine’s equally splendid dinner, it was after seating by familiar staff including Connie Shin that most guests stood to begin perusing some ninety choices spread across a variety of Buffet and Live Stations.
Truly a grand display, traditional Dim Sum and Chinese Barbeque lined up alongside items decorated in everything from Truffles to Abalone, it would not be long before most early arrivals returned to their table with plates full, fresh Oysters and Crab Legs a popular choice amongst the largely Asian crowd though many also gravitated towards a display of baked and fried Dim Sum that this year included Maine Lobster Pastry, Coconut Rice Cake and Purple Yam Mochi.
Moving slowly and eyeing variety, Shellfish and Sushi declined in favor of items less commonly experienced in such a setting, it was as a young woman played the guzheng that additional plates were enjoyed, Sticky Rice with Chicken wrapped in Lotus Leaf, Freshwater Eel Toast and Squid Ink Custard Steamed Bun all highlights necessitating repeat from a December visit.
Sipping Coffee, Jasmine Tea and Fiji throughout a ninety minute stay, The Fountains at Bellagio dancing outside floor-to-ceiling windows, cold Salads including Wood Ear Mushrooms with Premier Soya Sauce and Jelly Fish with Pickled Cabbage were both exquisite while Peking Duck with traditional condiments remains a must.
Focusing next on silver steam trays lining the center, left and right mirrored to create a seamless flow of traffic, it was as the fountains again danced outside that Sea Cucumber and Black Truffle each made an appearance prior to tasting Jasmine’s Treasure Taro Cake, the subtle flavors only rivaled this year by luxurious Dried Scallop and Cordyceps Flower Congee.
Eschewing last year’s Bubble Waffle experiment, which left room to enjoy Coconut Milk Soup with Taro and Yam and a few more Squid Ink Buns before Dessert, fans of Sesame Balls should not skip Jasmine’s stuffed with Lotus while Milky Puff Pastry, Choux and Cheese Tarts are all equally great ways to satisfy a sweet tooth.
FIVE STARS: Although Las Vegas’ Dim Sum scene improved tremendously in 2018, both Mott32 and China Tang bringing their Hong Kong brands to Sin City, there remains no other time or place to experience such variety and quality as Jasmine during their annual celebration of the Christmas and Chinese New Year.
RECOMMENDED: Peking Duck, Steamed Eggplant with X.O. Sauce, Treasure Taro Cake, Sticky Rice with Chicken wrapped in Lotus Leaf, Freshwater Eel Toast, Cucumber and Wood Ear Mushroom with Premier Soya Sauce, Dried Scallop and Cordyceps Flower Congee, Squid Ink Custard Steamed Bun, Coconut Milk Soup with Taro and Yam, Maine Lobster Pastry, Lotus Sesame Ball, Cheese Tart, Purple Yam Mochi Pastry, Chocolate Raspberry Fudge Cake, Chocolate Choux, Pistachio Choux
AVOID: New Year Puff Pastry was dry, though perhaps that is intentional and thus an acquired taste.
TIP: Offered yearly from 12/25 through 1/1 and during the first week of Lunar New Year. Reservations recommended but not required and early arrival necessary to assure best seats.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Radiatorre – Black Garlic, Lemon, Cream, Toasted Breadcrumbs / Polenta
Rigatoni – Short Rib, Tomato, Garlic, Ricotta Salata / Gemelli – Pesto, Pistachio, Peas + Greens, Pecorino Romano
Salted Chocolate Chip Cookie
Rocky Road Cookie
Opened in late May 2019 as James Trees’ follow-up to Esther’s Kitchen, it was Tuesday at 10:30am that Ada’s Chef de Cuisine Dylan Jobsz and GM Sonia Stelea arrived for setup, an hour early just like previous #supportlocal lunches where everything from actual plates and silverware was included at a very fair price for such impressive Food and service.
Again porting Pizza boxes suggesting “You Deserve The Best,” it was from largely similar offerings that staff selected their favorites, the inclusion of Gemelli with vibrant Pesto an added bonus that proceeds Spring by a few months but brings the season’s flavor full-force thanks to fresh Peas and tangled Greens.
Additionally updating the Market Salad with Pears, and placing similar plus Blue Cheese and Balsamic on one of Dylan’s Sourdough Crusts, suffice it to say that more than one plate of Polenta was enjoyed prior to rounding out the afternoon with two of each Cookie, though the Caramel Pretzel rounds were missed.
N/A: Making it blog policy to not ‘rate’ places based on catering alone, both Esther’s Kitchen as well as Ada’s live by the phrase “Whatever you do, Be the best!” and in terms of customer service as well as quality of cuisine served off-site one would be challenged to name anyone doing it better in Las Vegas.
TIP: Open 11a to 11p daily with most convenient access to Suite 120 offered by underground parking and the second escalator/elevator from the Rampart entrance. Reservations offered from 4:00pm to 10:30pm via Opentable. Click the website link for Catering options.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Referencing the still-red-hot Restaurant in Los Angeles, David Chang’s Majordōmo Meat & Fish opened at The Palazzo in late 2019, the replacement to beloved Carnevino sourcing a range of ideas to build a concise menu that succeeds largely through Ingredient sourcing and lots of umami.
Known best for the momofuku empire, and Ugly Delicious on Netflix, Majordōmo Meat & Fish sees Chang represent his Korean-American upbringing through big flavors plus sharable portion sizes, and from the elegant raw bar visible on entry to Prime Rib carts circulating the space no expense is spared.
A follow-up to the California concept recently nominated for “Best New Restaurant” by the James Beard Foundation, Majordōmo consists of nearly 250 seats and represents the biggest project to date for Chef Chang, the atmosphere buzzy thanks to modern music though never too loud thanks to high ceilings.
Offering posh seating and professional service from beginning to end, though presumptive “thank yous” and odd phrasing like “I’d like to establish your water preference” seem put-on at times, it is after guests are settled that decisions must be made, Cocktails including a Lemon Drop or Spicy Margarita predictably “Strip-priced” while house-filtered Water is complimentary.
Not “a Korean restaurant,” but built on Chang’s travel and heritage, it is amidst windows of aging Beef, countless bottles of Wine and top-shelf Liquor that temptation comes from every angle, responsibly sourced Seafood a good place to start and comprised of everything from fresh Crab or Shrimp to a daily special of sustainable Yellowtail with housemade Tomato Bonji.
Toqued by Brian Lhee, formerly of Tao, Chef Chang took no chances when sourcing talent for a project he describes as “one of the most insane things we’ve ever tried to do,” and despite expecting high volume during Las Vegas’ convention season the kitchen staff cuts no corners with everything housemade from Sauces and Dips to the Butter-free Flatbread called Bing.
A bit like Pita, but seared on the flat-top so the exterior becomes golden around a delicate crumb, Bing is offered with a variety of Toppings that range from Honey Butter to shaved Duck Liver, though if one is looking for the very definition of decadence it would be difficult to imagine anything better than unctuous cave-aged Butter and a heaping spoon of Caviar.
Also impressing with “Tingly Lamb” mellowed by Tzatziki, while Wagyu Beef Tartare and Hummus called “Chickpea Hozon” both skew Asian thanks to complex Spices, it is with serviceware reset that Entrees arrive, and although one can go all-out with A5 Miyazaki Striploin there are also price-conscious choices such as the $38 Pork Chop or 12oz Skirt Steak.
Instead opting for one of Majordōmo Meat & Fish’s sharable signatures, it was atop a tableside cart that several pounds of Beef Short Ribs were carefully carved by the Chef, its service with Kimchi, Bibb Lettuce and Sauce providing at least two-dozen customizable Wraps soon followed by a second service of Beef Fat Fried Rice.
Unable to forgo a side of beautifully fried Sweet Potatoes, and tempted by others, it was fortunate that some restraint was shown as this allowed any residual stomach space to be filled by Key Lime Pie better than anything found in Florida plus several bowls of the “build your own” Valrhona White Chocolate Rice Pudding with Vanilla Ice Cream, Salted Caramel Whipped Cream and housemade Toppings.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Always taking the Momofuku brand with a grain of salt, Majordōmo Meat & Fish’s service is professional but quirky thus far, while Food is across-the-board delicious from simple but delightful Caviar Butter to $225 Short Ribs and showstopper “Build Your Own” Rice Pudding reminiscent of L’Ami Jean.
RECOMMENDED: Bing with Cave-Aged Butter & Kaluga Caviar, Bing with Tingly Lamb, Bing with Wagyu Beef Tartare, Whole Plate Beef Short Rib, Fried Sweet Potatoes, Valrhona White Chocolate Rice Pudding.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Soon to add a back-room Korean barbeque tentatively called “Siberia,” and already slinging sliders at Moon Palace across the way, keep an eye out for daily specials and expect frequent menu changes according to staff.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
S’more – Honey Cinnamon Graham Cracker, Marshmallow, Chocolate Ganache, Maldon Salt
Camino Verde Chocolate Canele
Cocoa Nib Scone – Cocoa Nibs, Chocolate Chips, Black Cherry
Brown Butter Blondie – Walnuts, Miso, Cocoa Nibs, Chocolate Chips
European Drinking Chocolate – Housemade Marshmallows with Chocolate Chip Sable
2017 Harvest 70% Gola Rainforest Dark Chocolate / Black Sesame Seed Toffee Brittle
Two Ingredient Peanut Butter Cup
Established in San Francisco early 2010, and since expanded across the Bay and to Japan, Dandelion Chocolate debuted inside The Venetian on 12/7/19, and although oddly placed in “The Grand Canal Shoppes” (but technically adjacent Check-in) the store is everything fans have learned to love.
Self-defined as a “small-batch Bean-to-Bar craft Chocolate maker,” Dandelion Chocolate is the result of a lifetime love of Cocoa by owners Todd Masonis and Cameron Ring , partners who got an opportunity to pursue their passion after selling a tech startup called Plaxo to Comcast for a rumored sum of nearly $200 million in 2008.
Started in a garage, but now operating out of a factory in The Mission where Dandelion workers roast, winnow, grind and temper small batches of responsibly-sourced Beans before molding and packaging each bar by hand, it is inside the ground-floor boutique that guests will find a variety of treats and Beverages, Sin City’s first source of Ritual Roasters Coffee another feather in Dandelion’s cap.
Featuring a highly educated staff led by General Manager Adrian Danciu, his training in San Francisco evidenced by an extensive knowledge of Dandelion Chocolate’s history and process, it is from small cups that guests are invited to try samples ranging from Costa Rica to Sierra Leone, subtle notes of Fruit found amidst the former while bright Cinnamon notes present early from the Gola Rainforest Beans.
Open from 6:00am until 9:00pm, and offering varied seating options plus the Resort’s free Wi-Fi for those looking to stay and indulge, Drinks include everything from Black Coffee to thick European Drinking Chocolate with Housemade Marshmallows, or a dazzling Iced Mocha for those who want a little of both.
Also offering refined Horchata, arguably Vegas’ best even before adding cracked Nibs, every Drink comes with a bite-size Chocolate Chip Sable, though it is only a ere glimpse of the quality found inside Dandelion’s Chocolate Chip Cookie featuring 70% Camino Verde Chocolate or the Gluten-free Oatmeal round made of Almond Flour and packed with Cocoa, Coconut and Dried Cranberries.
Transparent in their process, Hexx’s team having spent time learning at the San Francisco factory before opening locally at Paris Hotel and Casino, it is currently from a commissary kitchen that Dandelion Chocolate produces its Pastries, but even midday on a weekend it would be hard to find any fault in the fluffy Cocoa Nib Scone or Brown Butter Blondie with Walnuts, Chocolate and the subtle saltiness of Miso.
Surprised to see Canelé, a rarity in Sin City that Dandelion makes fudgy at its Custard-like center, those looking for added decadence should not pass-up a S’more that is torched-to-order, the Honey Cinnamon Graham Cracker standing up to browned Marshmallow, Chocolate Ganache and a dash of Maldon Salt.
Collaborating with other artisans on Truffles, Brigadeiros and Caramels, if one asks nicely enough a sample of most items can be provided, and for guests looking to take something home the biggest question is “which Bar?” and whether the Two Ingredient Peanut Butter Cup or Black Sesame Seed Toffee Brittle is better – though it’s probably wise to get both.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Undoubtedly Las Vegas’ most pricey Chocolatier, Dandelion Chocolate’s Bars are a premium product made for discerning palates, but by offering free samples plus a bevy of Pastries and Beverages the boutique inside The Venetian is everything one might want – presuming they can find it.
RECOMMENDED: Nibby Horchata, Oatmeal Cookie, S’more, Brown Butter Blondie, 2017 Harvest 70% Gola Rainforest Dark Chocolate, Black Sesame Seed Toffee Brittle.
AVOID: Purists will complain that the Canelé’s shell is not quite crisp enough, but this undoubtedly results from the Cocoa. Those looking for the sweetness of Reese’s should also probably opt-out on the Two Ingredient Peanut Butter Cup since there is no sugar added, as the name suggests.
TIP: “Suite 101” is listed by The Venetian as part of their “Grand Canal Shoppes” but to find Dandelion from self parking or the front door just head towards the check-in and keep looking left.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Aurora Cocktail – Ketel One Peach & Orange Blossom, Plum Red Bull, Lemon, Cucumber
Moët & Chandon Imperial Brut Champagne
King Prawn Har Gow, Garlic Chive / South Australian Scallop, Garoupa, Caviar & Gold Leaf, Egg White Dumpling / Sugar Coated BBQ Iberico Pork Bun, Bamboo Charcoal / South Australian Scallop, Shrimp, Beetroot Dumplings / Scallop, Taro Croquette / Pan Fried Turnip Cake, Dried Scallops and Shrimp, XO Sauce
Chili Paste, Housemade Chili Oil, Soy Sauce
Hot & Sour Soup with Seafood
Shrimp Wonton Soup
Sweet Cream Corn Soup with Crabmeat
Deep-Fried Wontons
Marinated Cucumber & Garlic
Crispy Roasted Pork Belly, Spicy Mustard
Crispy Prawn Beancurd Roll
Prawn, Crispy Rice Paper Cheung Fun
Cold Free-Range Chicken, Szechuan Peppercorns, Chili Sauce, Peanuts
Rice Vermicelli Soup, Pickled Mustard Green & Shredded Duck
White Rice
Salt and Pepper Tofu
Sesame Prawn Toast, Autumn Sauce
Pan Fried Glutinous Rice, Chicken, Iberico Pork, Conpoy, Egg
Fried Mashed Potatoes with Beef Short Rib
Barbecue Pluma Iberico Pork with Scrambled Egg & Black Truffle
Sweet & Sour Pork, Aged Black Vinegar, Dragonfruit
Poached Pork Dumpling, Aged Vinegar, Spicy Sauce
Shanghainese Noodles, Dried Shrimp, Tossed with Scallion Oil
Opened in December 2018, and quickly making a name for itself as one of Las Vegas’ premier Chinese Restaurants, Mott 32 began the new year with an all-you-can eat Brunch available from 11am until 2pm every Sunday.
Deemed “bottomless,” with a “free-flow beverage package” available for $35 supplement, it is inside the Joyce Wang-designed space that guests are invited to take seats amidst 11,400 square feet of luxury, murals and gold-threaded wall coverings even more opulent in the daylight while a trained violinist keeps pace with classic and contemporary music.
A glorious and multifaceted expanse, with service led by Nathan Grates all but guaranteeing guests a wonderful experience, it is after perusing some thirty items that diners are invited to self-select or defer to servers, though no matter which route is chosen all are encouraged to begin with the Dim Sum sampler comprised of King Prawn Har Gow, delicate South Australian Scallop Dumplings, Iberico Pork Buns and an umami-packed Turnip Cake.
Cutting no corners on the $58-per-person menu, though two items were oddly unavailable throughout the Brunch’s third week, it was while sipping a Sparkling Sake Cocktail that three Soups arrived, the Sweet Corn containing an impressive amount of Crab Meat while Hot & Sour as well as Wontons in clear Consommé built around Shrimp.
Adding Fried Wontons and Marinated Cucumber, the latter ideal for cleansing the palate between more unctuous bites, fans of Pork will be delighted by slices of Belly with crisp Skin, though when considered next to Barbecue Pluma Iberico Pork scrambled with Eggs and Black Truffle or Sweet & Sour Loin with Dragonfruit the choice of which to eat the most of becomes difficult.
Back to Prawns, both Bean Curd Rolls and Cheung Fun successful in their traditional approach, suffice it to say that Mott 32’s Prawn Toast is nothing short of dazzling in terms of texture and taste while Shanghainese Noodles with housemade Scallion Oil and Fried Rice also benefit from the kitchen’s attention to detail.
Entirely waiter service, glasses of Moët & Chandon Champagne or fragrant Aurora Cocktails replenished as necessary with guests never needing to wait at a Buffet line, tongues will definitely need cooling after a plate of Cold Free-Range Chicken or Poached Pork Dumplings, and less-so for lightly tempura’d Tofu.
Not offering the signature Applewood Peking Duck at Brunch, but adding an ample amount of shredded Flesh to Rice Vermicelli Soup, two additional highlights are the Pan Fried Glutinous Rice Cake, or for those less adventurous cubes of tender Short Ribs in rich gravy surrounding a fried ball of creamy Potatoes.
Toqued by Chef Alan Ji, and attuned to Las Vegas’ unique landscape that necessitates accessibility for Americans alongside people hailing from different parts of China, Desserts are distinct but identifiable whether one favors the sweetness of Guava Pudding, subtlety of Water Chestnut Rolls or Donut-like deliciousness of Fried Rice Balls with Pumpkin Paste.
FIVE STARS: Those who’ve been to Mott 32 know it is good, albeit expensive, yet for all the love of Spring Mountain Road none of the Asian spots there are serving Iberico Pork or Dayboat Scallops, let alone Truffles and Wagyu. And with the new 11a-2p Sunday Brunch the Venetian stunner offers an impressive array of made-to-order plates for just $58 and all you care to enjoy, complete with live music in a truly gorgeous room.
RECOMMENDED: Egg White Dumpling, Sugar Coated BBQ Iberico Pork Bun, Pan Fried Turnip Cake, Sweet Cream Corn Soup, Marinated Cucumber & Garlic, Cheung Fun, Cold Free-Range Chicken, Sesame Prawn Toast, Pan Fried Glutinous Rice, Fried Mashed Potatoes with Beef Short Rib, Barbecue Pluma Iberico Pork with Scrambled Egg & Black Truffle, Sweet & Sour Pork, Fried Chinese Sticky Rice Ball with Pumpkin Paste.
AVOID: Beef Tendon and Lotus Root Salad were oddly unavailable on January 26th but no reason why was offered.
TIP: Brunch is Sundays only, 11am until 2pm, with a set $58 menu and no a la carte. Full Menu begins 5pm daily.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.mott32.com/lasvegas or www.venetian.com/restaurants/mott-32.html
Mayfair Music Box – Macarons, Truffles, Nougat, Caramel, Candies
Inspired by concepts from New York to Europe, The Mayfair Supper Club debuted at The Bellagio on New Year’s Eve, and billed as “so much more than dinner” the space formerly home to Hyde Nightclub pays homage to Las Vegas’ past with eyes squarely on the future.
Benefited by a spectacular view of the Fountains at Bellagio, it is immediately upon passing through an archway of roses that guests are swept away, and from the spacious lounge to a flamboyant dining room the attention to detail is everything one might expect from one of Sin City’s finest resorts.
Built out by Martin Brudnizki Design Studios, everything from flowers to aquatic elements spread across two bars and tables, it is wrapped around a central performance area that guests are seated in plush booths where needs are tended to by servers in white tuxedos.
A space of shifting energy throughout the evening, trombones and pianos playing early before song and dance routines, suffice it to say that Mayfair’s Cocktail menu is not for the faint of heart, but once one gets past steep pricing everything from Old Fashioned riffs to a Mai Tai built on top-shelf Rum is not only beautifully presented but also bold and well-balanced.
Harkening eras past, tunes from Sinatra jazzed up while scantily clad men and women boogie, guests are encouraged to begin with Champagne and Caviar, Blanc de Blancs from Ruinart one of the more cost-conscious choices while the $35 Wagyu Beef & Caviar Hand Roll is every bit as delicious as it is extravagant.
Polished yet professional in terms of service, tableside presentations adding to a show already featuring 360-degree lights and a hydraulic stage, Mayfair’s “Lobster Club Hand Roll” gets a bit muddled thanks to unnecessary Peppers, while the classic Wedge Salad and Steak Tartare each perform beautifully thanks to good Ingredients – the latter in particular standing out thanks to fried Onions used to scoop the tender raw Beef.
“Dinner and a show” to say the least, Dover Sole expertly deboned and sauced tableside while flexible females twist on rings suspended from the ceiling, things only grow more interesting as the night goes on, and by the time one takes their first bite of Mishima Wagyu Prime Rib they’ll almost forget that sides of Steak Fries and Butternut Squash cost $16 apiece.
Offering a bevy of Digestifs plus Tea and Coffee, the Beans bold and best as Espresso, Dessert comes from the same team behind Mayfair’s complimentary Parker House Rolls, and whether one selects tableside flambéed Cherries Jubilee or the citrusy Baked Alaska heads are bound to turn, same for the Mayfair Music Box featuring Macarons, Candies, Chocolates and a dancing ballerina.
FOUR STARS: From big flavors and beautiful presentations to high energy entertainment in a dazzling environment The Mayfair Supper Club may be the most “Vegas” experience to open on The Strip in decades, and although prices are steep it is clear no expense has been spared to ensure guests an outstanding experience.
RECOMMENDED: Mai Tai, Parker House Rolls, Steak Tartare, Dover Sole Veronique, Baked Alaska.
AVOID: Lobster Club Hand Roll would be better without the Peppers and Nori, while the Butternut Squash would be more tolerable without the 1000% mark-up.
TIP: On Fridays and Saturdays from 11:00pm until 3:00am the space becomes “Mayfair After Dark”, featuring late-night menus, deejays and live music.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Created by Chefs Giuseppe Lo Iudice and Alessandro Miocchi, Retrobottega resides between Piazza Navona and the Pantheon, the focus on seasonal Ingredients with concise flavors taking a novel look at Roman Cuisine while their twenty-course tasting at the “Chefs Counter” offers a comprehensive experience not unlike many “destination” Restaurants around the globe.
Considered by many to be Rome’s most exciting Restaurant, perhaps small-praise in a city where nine-out-of-ten Eateries offer Amatriciana or Carbonara, one gets the sense that something different is occurring even prior to entering Via della Stelletta 4, frontage almost foreboding while the interior is distinctly modern.
Taking a different approach than the likes of Osteria Francescana or Le Calandre, not to mention any number of less successful Italian “stars” that attempt to wow diners by applying modernist tricks to canonic dishes, eating at Retrobottega instead sees guests pick plates based on duos or trios of Ingredients gathered loosely as Antipasti, Primi, Secondi and Dolci.
A stark contrast to Rome’s otherwise historic cooking, with willingness to take chances, it is quickly after confirming allergies and Beverage selections that dinner gets started, a place directly in front of the Chef allowing guests to watch each plate come together with both speed and accuracy.
Composing the tasting of sized-down plates from the a la carte menu, and thus expediting the process such that courses arrive every five-to-ten minutes, it is following Grissini that phase one comprises five plates, the Cracker essentially a palate cleanser while Artichoke, Mussels, truffled Cabbage and a Cardoon draped in Cheese each offered bold combinations that tasted great on their own despite a somewhat awkward progression.
Pumping the brakes prior to Sweetbreads, a sizable morsel magnified by Licorice next to whipped Cauliflower, Pasta at Retrobottega achieves high marks thanks to a sense of urgency, Risotto with Uni and Truffles every bit as rich as it sounds while Tortellini pairs sweet and heat to create something entirely unique.
Wishing there were more of the Gnocchi, same with Agnolotti made ‘a la minute’ in an umami-laden broth, there may have been no more “challenging” dish on this particular night than Burnt Wheat Noodles with Citrus and Kale, though if so it was sliced Celeriac cooked in Red Wine with the added bitterness of Celery.
Trained at Michelin 2-Star Il Pagliaccio, Chef Iudice and Miocchi’s Secondi show an artfulness in plating, Vegan-friendly Leeks and Sunchokes fragrant as expected while white+white+white Cod was equally bold as Rabbit Saddle or Rack with Chicories and Pomegranate.
Concluding savories with rosy Pigeon, a generous slice of Breast with Turnip Greens and Parsnip Puree, Dessert arrives as a quintet, Citrus and Chestnut a light but unsuccessful pairing while the remaining two-bite sweets were highlighted by a Pear Tart with floral accents and bitter Chocolate Mousse next to a flourless wedge of Cake.
Spaghettone alla Carbonara – Spaghetti Pasta, Eggs, Pork Cheek, Pecorino Romano, Black Pepper
Tonnarello Cacio e Pepe – Tonnarelli Pasta, Pecorino Romano, Black Pepper
Brioche con Crema Chantilly – Burned Wheat, Green Pepper, Vanilla, Chantilly Cream
Opened April 2017, in Rome’s San Giovanni neighborhood, SantoPalato has received accolades from press both local and global, all thanks to Chef Sarah Cicolini’s decisive yet balanced flavors that honor ancient recipes with access to today’s best Ingredients.
Tile and orange, every bit retro in appearance, it is amidst graffiti-sprayed streets that one will find SantoPalato mostly blending in with other Trattoria, the lack of a line on Sunday afternoon somewhat atypical according to servers, though at least partially attributable to the fact that most locals realize getting a seat without reservations is nearly impossible.
Part of Rome’s new generation of Chefs, Cicolini’s mere 31 years nonetheless sporting an impressive resume, it was in Abruzzo that Sarah started in Food service at a young age, her eventual move to Rome landing at Metamorfosi where Chef Roy Caceres has long sought to modernize Italy’s most time-honored recipes.
Not taking Metamorfosi’s modernist approach, but instead applying techniques learned to classic plates such as Carbonara and Cacio e Pepe, it is with perhaps Cicolini’s willingness to venture into “quinto quarto” (Offal) that has helped SantoPalato stand out amidst its competitors, one bite of Tripe brightened by chopped Vegetables quickly differentiating hers from Armando al Pantheon while natural Wines such as Pranzegg Vino Bianco Caroline are anything but common in Italy.
Priced such that middle-class locals can dine at SantoPalato regularly, a phone-only reservation system assuring tourists are kept minimal, menus are available in English for those who need them, though a board of specials including items such as Roast Beef with Horseradish and Hazelnuts requires guests without a functional understanding of Italian to take chances.
Owned by Restaurateur Marco Pucciotti, who has given Chef Cicolini a green light to cook as she likes, another early surprise is SantoPalato’s Coda alla Vaccinara, the Oxtail stewed before being packed and fried with its intensity magnified several-fold by Peanut Sauce and Cocoa Powder.
Charming maximal flavor out of Chicory as well as Broccoli, while housemade Bread should be reserved for scarpetta, more Off-Cuts arrived in the form of Focaccia draped in Lardo with a splash of Raspberry Vinegar plus a piping-hot Egg baked around mineral-rich Chicken Liver.
Switching stride with Olevano Romano Cesanese Superiore DOC “Tyto,” its herbaceous linger soft enough to pair well with Cicolini’s handmade Pasta, suffice it to say that Rigatoni all’Amatriciana and Carbonara benefit from superior quality Guanciale while Tonnarello Cacio e Pepe requested to be served in the “ancient style” by a regular was dry enough to be eaten by hand but expertly al dente in texture.
Opting against secondi, but not about to forgo Dessert, SantoPalato spins the idea of Maritozzi on its head by using Burned Wheat and Green Pepper to create a delicate Sponge before smoothing out the composition with heavily-Vanilla Cream Chantilly, its Ingredients and references a lesson in why history matters.
Founded in 1920, and family owned entering generation number four, Biscottificio Innocenti occupies a quiet stretch of Via del Luce in Trastevere, an area now best known for its nightlife but one that certainly does not appear as such during daylight.
Now under the direction of Stefania Innocenti and her daughter Michela, their shop centered around a belted oven built in 1950, it is from down the street that one can begin to smell Butter and Sugar from 08h00 until 20h00 Monday through Saturday, though the best time to visit is rumored to be between 09h30 and 14h00 on Sunday.
Faded blue from the outside, windows displaying Innocenti’s bounty bathing an aged interior with light, it is immediately upon entry that guests will notice a wall of photos, many famous Italians who’ve enjoyed now-€18 per kilogram Cookies over the past century.
Defying the American idea that Biscotti are oblong and dry, that term instead used to describe a wide variety of shapes and consistencies, it was in broken Italian that two guests requested the elder Innocenti compose two boxes, some still-warm from the vintage orange oven.
The only shop of its kind in Rome, historic recipes and the oven’s 16-meter belt allowing for even baking-duration, it is besides the point to describe each of the family’s various Cookies at-length, just know that “Brutti ma Buoni” are requested by name for a reason while Macaroons, Sandwich Cookies and little mounds covered in Almonds are also exemplary.
Not far from Campo de’ Fiori, Pasticceria De Bellis looks a little bit French upon entry, and between time studying alongside Ferran Adrià as well as Jordi Roca the Pastries from Chef Andrea De Bellis set a high standard despite Rome’s generally underwhelming Dessert scene.
Closed Monday, but otherwise open from 09h00 to 20h00 daily, it is at Piazza del Paradiso 56 that guests will find the small shop, a lone server on this particular date expediting orders including Cakes, Panini and Coffee.
Offering limited seating, though most Italian patrons seem to take De Bellis’ to-go with Coffee, it was after perusing a small collection that three items were selected, the Espresso stronger than most but finishing smooth and well-suited to sip with crumbly Ricotta Cake with Apples.
More inviting than the likes of Roscioli Caffè, relaxing even, it was seated at a wooden table that forks pierced the shell of De Bellis’ Cannoli, the Chocolate-lining something of a textural compromise though filling is unparalleled while a “Bronte Cake” with Pistachio Cream and Raspberry is delicate, beautiful and delicious.
Salmon and Cream Cheese Cornetto with Sesame Seeds
Apricot Bomboloni
Castagnole Crema, Castagnole Chocolate
Bomboloni alla Crema
Well known for their Salumeria-Restaurant and nearby Bakery, Caffè Pasticceria is the latest project from Rome’s Roscioli family, its location two doors down from the famous Restaurant guaranteeing a high volume of foot traffic Monday through Saturday from 07h00 to 23h00 and Sunday beginning at 08h00 until 18h00.
Continuing a trend of chaotic service and high volume, the narrow storefront almost hidden save for a short line into the street, it is at Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 16 that guests are invited to fight for elbowroom while ordering or eating, unless they are fortunate enough to find a seat amidst the tiny dining area in back.
Displaying Pastries in glass cases, presumably baked at Antico Forno Roscioli considering the Café’s small size, it is with locals shouting orders and reaching past standing diners that the scene unfolds, the only person seemingly aware of anything but themselves a cashier up front.
Eventually forgoing coffee as a result of the lack of flow, but able to flag down a server just long enough to order a few Pastries, Breakfast began with a seemingly out-of-place Cornetto stacked with Cured Salmon, the whole thing fairly forgettable but enjoyed by others while Roscioli’s Bombolini found the version with Apricot Jam better than that with Cream and crunchy sugar akin to a Mexican Concha.
Facing plenty of competition in Centro Storico, surrounded by cobblestone streets, some suggest that Roscioli’s Maritozzi compares favorably to Rome’s best versions, but unimpressed by those elsewhere the only item truly felt to be worth such effort and claustrophobia on this particular morning were two Castagnole that melted on the tongue, leaving behind a breath of Cream and Sugar.
Fried Gnocchi – Pecorino Cheese and Black Pepper Fondue
Pizza Prosciutto Cotto – Ham, Mozzarella
Fettuccine alla Carbonara – Pecorino Romano Cheese, Guanciale, Black Pepper, Eggs
Tonnarelli alla Gricia – Pecorino Romano Cheese, Guanciale, Black Pepper
Veal Cacciatore – White Wine, White Vinegar, Black Olives, Rosemary, Garlic, Black Pepper
Coda alla Vaccinara – Oxtail, Tomato Sauce
Placed on the itinerary of travelers visiting The Eternal City by both Eater and “A Pasta Lover’s Guide to Rome,” Trattoria Da Cesare al Casaletto resides in an apartment block distant from the rest of Rome’s great eateries, this and the “by phone only” reservations policy assuring mostly locals lining up for traditional fare in a large but stark dining room.
Known simply as “Da Cesare” to many, and closed Wednesday but otherwise open from 12h45 to 15h00 for lunch plus 19h45 pm to 23h00 pm for dinner, it is primarily by bus or Uber that guests make way to Rome’s Monteverde Nuovo neighborhood, this particular evening finding nearly every indoor seat packed as temperatures were too cold for the patio.
Lacking central Rome’s cobblestone, wider streets and a sizable park giving the surrounding are a distinctly more residential feel, it is once seated that servers present with convivial charm, English-fluency limited but made less necessary by translated menus.
Dubbed by one local writer as “the perfect Trattoria” back in 2012, a bare-bones building with bright lights placing diners’ focus on Food and conversation, it is from Fritti, Pizza, Primi and Secondi that guests may choose to build their meal, affordable Wines also highlighted such as €4 for a particularly generous pour of Prosecco.
Built on classics, but ranging widely enough to please most palates, one will quickly notice most tables enjoying good Bread while debating options, the Gnocchi Fritti frequently following with fried Dumplings swimming in a pool of what amounts to Cacio e Pepe Fondue.
Refined without feeling “stuffy,” the servers seemingly everywhere at once despite lengthy expediting times, Pizza comes on a crisp but forgettable Crust while Pastas allow diners to select their own Noodle and Sauce combination, such as thin Ribbons of Fettuccine slicked with Egg Yolk and Pork Jowl in the case of good Carbonara.
Leaving the Egg out of square-cut Tonnarelli, a dry Noodle cooked al dente, flavors leaned a bit too salty in Da Cesare’s alla Gricia while Hunter’s style Veal got lost amongst Olives and Garlic, thus raising Coda alla Vaccinara’s stock as the better Secondi.
Serving Rome from his original store at Via dei Gracchi 272 since 1999 Alberto Manassei is considered one of Rome’s preeminent Gelato makers, a midlife career change seeing the former musician learn the craft from him brother while living in Sardinia.
Tucked away on a side street in Prati, other Gelateria since opened including an outpost of Romana less than 600 meters away, it is inside a humble space that guests find thirty flavors daily, attention to recent trends including both Lactose and Gluten-free options.
Eschewing Preservatives and Dyes, with no Ingredient hailing from outside Italy, freshness is described as Gelateria dei Gracchi’s core value, though for diners not fluent in Italian this can only be teased out online as no one on-site speaks English.
Famous to the point of four stores, including larger locations with seating, it was after lengthy perusal that three flavors were selected, the matte green Pistacchio di Bronte beautifully flavored yet “gummy” in texture, while Pine Nut and Dates with Walnut followed-suit with ice crystals in the latter leading one to assume inappropriate storage temperature.
Ruby Chocolate Stracciatella, Croccante della Nonna, Pesto di Pistacchio, White Chocolate filled Cone
Known to make some of Rome’s creamiest Gelato since 1947, Gelateria la Romana remains a forward thinking company, and although most of the best shops in Italy produce great products both La Romana’s Pistachio and Stracciatella made with Ruby Chocolate are a step above the local competition.
Situated at Via Cola di Rienzo 2, near the river and Piazza della Liberta, it is by way of franchising that La Romana has expanded across twenty storefronts and several nations, the feel admittedly commercial though staff is pleasant.
Now under the direction of Ivano and Massimiliano Zucchi, trained in their father’s shop on Piazza Ferrari, it is sourcing nothing but natural Ingredients that La Romana offers an Eco-Friendly experience, packaging as well as spoons both biodegradable and Cones filled from a Chocolate fountain assuring nothing goes to waste.
Offering both historic and modern flavors, with prices no different from other Roman Gelateria, it is on the go or seated inside that guests are highly encouraged to taste La Romana’s Milk Cream base first, its mouthfeel truly luxurious and well exploited with textural elements such as crumbled Pine Nut Cookies, Sicilian Pistachios or the aforementioned Red Chocolate with generous notes of Fruit.
Fettuccine alla “Regaje” di Pollo – Fresh Pasta, Chicken Liver, Cock’s Comb, Wattle, Tomato, Parmesan Cheese
Trippa alla Romana – Cow’s Tripe, Tomato, Pecorino Cheese, Black Pepper, Mint
La “Torta Antica Roma” – Ricotta Cheese, Strawberry Jam
Since 1961 Armando Al Pantheon has been serving traditional Roman fare in the shadow of a timeless landmark, and although tourists have started to catch on, the tiny wood-paneled room is still largely populated by locals who desire a taste of Chef Claudio Gargioli’s hearty and historic Food.
Family owned for nearly sixty years, sons Claudio and Fabrizio as well as and granddaughter Fabiana now operating front and back of house, it is immediately upon entry that guests will note just fourteen tables, servers regularly turning away potential patrons who have unfortunately failed to make the requisite reservation.
Rooted in history, and closed Saturday after lunch service through to Monday, it is once seated that guests are offered Bread and Beverage, plus a menu full of dishes that date-back centuries and a few daily specials.
Still finding Chef Claudio involved, on this day touching tables and signing copies of his cookbook, it was after some debate that lunch was ordered in four courses, a starter of “Anchovy Cake” finding briny bits countered by Pine Nuts and Tomatoes while textural diversity was dialed up by Bread Crumbs and Cracklings.
Following Roman tradition in offering plenty of Offal, housemade Fettuccine achieving excellence despite using anything but the parts typically considered “desirable,” Armando Al Pantheon’s Tripe is tender and flawless, Mint coming in mid-palate and quickly dissipating while Black Pepper and Tomato linger at the finish.
Well known for “Torta Antica Roma,” a dish reportedly invented by Claudio Gargioli that clearly takes notes from Pasticceria Boccione and others, guests can expect to see a slice on every table to finish, and after the first bite of crumbled Topping, soft Cheese and Jam it is easy to understand why.
Sacher Rocher, Chocolate Aragosta, Strawberry Tart, Baba with Chocolate, Baba with Cream and Strawberries
Although Zeppole di San Giuseppe is considered something of a signature at Tarallificio Leopoldo, its lack on Saturday morning did not make the Bakery any less memorable, everything from Tartlets with Fraises Des Bois to Chocolate Cake showing well while warm Sfogliatella were amongst the best in Napoli.
Established in 1940, and open daily at 09h00, it is entering the shop on Via Foria that guests will find friendly customer service, English-fluency limited but adequate to explain several items which were still coming fresh from the oven at 09h30.
Not offering seating, though those who wish to dine on-site will find a standing area up front, it was after teeth had shattered through layers of Sfogliatella Riccia that Frolla was tasted, a slightly longer bake than other spots adding an extra dimension in terms of texture.
Happy to see several smaller treats, though whole Cakes are also available, it was finding both Baba plump and saturated with boozy Syrup that no clear winner could be decided, the Strawberry Tart equally praiseworthy while those seeking something richer will find the Sacher Rocher Cake and Lobster Tail with Chocolate Cream compelling.
Located at Piazza Garibaldi, and known for taking classic Italian Pastries in modern directions, Sfogliatelab comes from the mind of Salvatore Ferrieri, nearly one hundred years of family history fueling a diverse selection of Napoli’s signature Confections.
No doubt benefitted by an opportune location, less than 100m separating Sfogliatelab’s front door from Naples Central Station, it is from 06h00 until 23h45 that the sizable shop opens to guests, though shelves still only part-filled at 07h30 on Saturday suggest limited options at certain times.
The son of a man who brought German Cuisine to Naples in the 70’s, and thus no stranger to doing things a little differently, Ferrieri’s Pastries entail unique fillings for Sfogliatelle, Baba and Cornetti, the latter on this particular day riffing on Tiramisu with runny Cream and subtle notes of Cocoa as well as Coffee.
Likely baking many of the Restaurant’s Pastries a day prior, the fact that zero of three Sfogliatelle were even remotely warm just thirty seconds after being placed on shelves evidence beyond a somewhat compromised consistency, suffice it to say nearby Cuori di Sfogliatella offers a far better product if one is seeking novel flavors.
Continuing with a Baba Parfait whose cold storage had led to frozen Pistachio Cream, a fact staff suggested would benefit from letting it “melt,” it was from Baristas practiced in brevity that Espresso joined Bombolini, the combination of Pastry Cream, Cherries and Sugar undeniably delicious while the texture was light and springy.
Pizza e Salsiccia di Buffala – Mozzarella di Bufala, Buffalo Sausage, Extra Virgin Olive Oil DOP, Black Pepper, Rosemary, Basil
Pizza ai 4 Pomodori – Datterini Tomatoes, Mozzarella di Bufala / Corbarino Tomatoes, Smoked Mozzarella / San Marzano Tomatoes, Fior di Latte / Sundried Tomatoes, Scamorza, Sheep’s Cheese
Despite both locations of Pizzaria La Notiza being located outside Naples city center Pizzaiolo Enzo Coccia has established a reputation as one of Italy’s best, and although one can most certainly get a fine Margherita, assuming they can secure a seat, the real magic inside the number 7 Pizzeria according to “50 Top Pizza” is found in more thought provoking concepts.
VPN certified since 2012, but telling his story through Pizza since a childhood helping father Antonio at ovens of his own, La Notiza 94 is the newer of Coccia’s two Restaurants, a small footprint on Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio capable of holding perhaps fifty and almost universally with a queue spilling into the street.
Open at 19h30 daily, and less English-friendly that other Neapolitan Pizzerias, it is once seated that guests are invited to choose amongst Classics, “Ideas of Enzo” or Seasonal Pizzas, the center containing most of the best from a man who considers himself an “artisan at the service” rather than a true artist.
Ingredient-obsessed, but firmly rooted in technique and precision, it is sourcing all items from Campania that La Notiza begins, a mere look at “Pizza ai 4 Pomodori” showing Enzo’s desire to educate as each section of the Pie places a different type of Tomato in the context of a Margherita.
Teaching his method globally through a company known as Pizza Consulting, students hailing everywhere from New York to India and Japan, it is with a Master’s Degree in “Food traditions and cultures of the Mediterranean people” that Enzo’s Crust takes on a traditional form with stretch but crispness, while concepts such as those marrying a Buffalo’s Meat to its Milk display an eye starring towards the future.
Pizza Vesuvio – Red Piennolo Tomatoes, Mozzarella di Bufala, Basil
Pizza Porchetta Ariccia – Smoked Provola, Porchetta di Ariccia, Basil
Located steps from Materdei station in Napoli since 1901 Starita has served everyone from the Pope to Sophia Loren, and although New York’s “Don Antonio by Starita“ makes a good Pizza the use of native Ingredients helps set the original apart.
Made famous by the 1954 film L’oro di Napoli, and still owned by Antonio Starita in partnership with son Giuseppe, it was without the usual hour-plus queue that Starita was found on a brisk January evening, staff beginning to welcome guests at 19h00 with the lengthy space mostly full within thirty minutes.
Decorated in stone archways and red tablecloths, old photos plus the iconic fork and ladle hanging on the wall, guests are invited to choose from over sixty Pies offered alongside Fritti and Dolci, the Montanara highly celebrated but on this night omitted in favor of a particularly creamy Rice Ball and Starita’s delicate stuffed-Squash Blossom.
Steeped in history, no hyper-hydration or exaggerated cornicione, Starita’s Pizza takes on a more traditional appearance with crisp edge and moist center, a Margherita made with Tomatoes from Mount Vesuvius showcasing sweetness and acidity contrasted by puddles of Cheese and the oven’s char.
Utilizing three rooms in addition to the foyer containing Starita’s oven, and filling the first before seating the second, it was with volume high that Pizza number two was tasted, a thick layer of smoked Cheese helping to mellow unctuous Roman Pork with distinctive notes of Pepper and Rosemary.
